1004ron

The only thing that I'm not happy with on my 2017 Sports is the backrest heating and cooling that does not work and Ford haven't resolved.

It's so good that's the only gripe I have, and its minor.

After my front bumper was stripped down and repainted, I've not had any other issues.

I work at a coal fired power plant and the acid rain has badly marked the horizontal surfaces, but surprisingly it hasn't had any impact on the front bumper, and my black Harley Nightrain paint is also unaffected.

Not as widespread as your paint defects, but you can view mine here:

If you're feeling kind, you could let the dealership manager know that you expect appropriate action on their part, such as dismissal of the mechanic, or you'll be taking it as high as you can go with Ford Corp.

This mechanic/dealership are likely skipping safety related service items.

6 hours ago, jmr061 said:

Ford identifies 75w-140 as rear axle fluid.  I wouldn't get excited about that.

47 minutes ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

nope 80w90 is for the rdu, 75w140 for the ptu officially.  has not changed since inception.

https://www.mactgarage.com/gen-2-ford-edge-capacities-and-spec

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KsuV6pzRRNZtRt2bQmdqmXeiJ79yp5oU

OK, I meant 80W90 for the RDU, not 75W140 as @jmr061 and the invoice/receipt states.

4 hours ago, jmr061 said:

Ford identifies 75w-140 as rear axle fluid.

 

My Edge owners manual specifies 75W90 and I assumed it was the same grade for the 2008 Edge RDU.

If that mechanic is still employed there next week, it suggests that the dealership condones that type of deceit and theft.

Agree with the others, contact Ford Corp.

There's a considerable cock-up on that invoice - it states REAR AXLE but the oil grade is not what goes in the rear axle.

With that, I'd insist that they put the correct oil in the REAR AXLE and do the oil change on the PTU and no additional charge.

1 hour ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

typically, the vent is extended into the engine bay, makes it easy.  you refill the amount you need to while keeping the cap off the extension tube.  then quickly close up the drain plug.

You need to post a tutorial with video.

On 7/23/2017 at 10:04 AM, macbwt said:

They even refill the PTU through the drain plug by using a syringe.

On 7/29/2017 at 1:24 PM, enigma-2 said:

Let's see now, the drain plug is located on the bottom of the PTU, the syringe squirts the lube up into the unit, what keeps it in before you close the drain plug?

It's been a while, but I'm also intrigued and keen to hear how they accomplish that.

23 hours ago, 14AWD3.5 said:

I liked the posted Amazon extractor save one thing, it’s kinda big. I looked at the others that were advertised as possibilities but they are all size large. The electric pumps that are advertised to handle pulling thicker fluids out are half the price but either not well rated or just not many ratings.  Too bad.  I dont even have ramps and I’d at least want those before I crawled underneath (at 63) and tried manually draining and refilling...

I tried an electric pump, it wasn't an expensive one, and that's maybe why it didn't work, so I bought a really good vacuum type extractor off eBay.

See attached photo of my oil extractor and my garden sprayer re-purposed as an auto trans fluid pump - both work great.

59 minutes ago, Brucifer said:

Edge owners must be getting older because the forum font is so large.

Not for me, I'm getting/am older, but using "Ctrl and - "  adjusts the font size.

Need to adjust to the new format, but looking good so far.

Check for a local transmission shop. They have the equipment and are usually contentious.

 

I had to talk directly to the technician at my local Ford dealer. Service reps are sales reps, NOT technicians. Tech came out, i told him what I wanted and he sure, no problem. He through out 1/2 hour and a can of lubericant (even though it only used a few ounces). $80 total. Tell them they can use the same pump they use to service the rear axles.

 

(Also mention that Ford has a service procedure based on towing and driving through deep water.)

Are you referring to the RDU?

If so, the RDU takes 75W90 and the PTU 75-140

Maybe you're referring to the extractor equipment.

How is everyone changing it when there is no drain plug?

The home DIY'r uses an oil extractor, like the one I use to extract the RDU oil.

What do you think of letting my nearby Firestone change it? I have an ESP (Ford) thats good till 2020 and don’t want to invalidate it by having a non-Ford fluid used.

Or I can drive 50 miles and try another Ford dealer...

PTU

If Firestone is a quick-lube or tire change place, I'd not allow them to touch any of my vehicles, ..... I'd take it to a reputable independent service centre.

The use of non-Ford fluid has no impact on your warranty if it meets or exceeds the Ford's spec - Ford has serviced my vehicle with non-Ford fluid that I provided.

Been using Mobil-1 since the first service with Motocraft filter, whether I do the service or my local Ford dealership.

I got those "post cards" in the mail today for our 2015 Mustang and 2017 Edge.

The Edge drivers airbag and controller was replaced when it was a couple of months old.

There doesn't seem to be any such recalls for the 2015 Mustang.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/page-30

It will work. I used it on my 2016 Tightanium.

Everything is covered in that thread, and more.

Here is a picture I found that matches my PTU. 2 plugs. https://www.fordflex.net/forums/download/file.php?id=5529

That is most likely a drain plug, if its at the low point when mounted.

I have a 2015 SE AWD. Want to change the fluid in my PTU. I don't have a sport but I see what looks like a drain plug in the PTU but it is not on the bottom like photos I have seen for the sport on the bottom of the PTU. It look like a drain plug on the side but lower from the upper fill plug. Is this a drain plug I am looking at? To the right of the photo? I thought for sure it wouldn't have a drain. Can anyone comfirm that this is the drain plug? Thanks gang.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOC55TTLHTHirwCOOxa3GoWFP5dXlLTBAyLCrq6

That photo isn't showing - try uploading to this site.

I am going to be changing out the PTU fluid on my 16 Sport this coming month. The service manual makes it seem pretty simple and from the above info it sounds like it. Question though....I am getting the Amsoil 75w-140 in the EZ-Pack....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NU7_Mrpf9A8

 

For those that have done it, is there enough room to use it like the video shows or will I still need a pump?

 

Just want to make sure I have everything I need.

Thanks

 

Jason

No need for a pump.

There's enough space for me to use the standard Royal Purple bottles, and the EZ-Pack would have even more space.

"But, given the history with this engine"

I'm referring to the first one that had to have the cylinder heads replaced due to burning oil and then was eventually replaced - as noted in this thread.

 

Is it normal to use that much oil in 80 miles after the engine was replaced 300 miles ago?

Shumax

You have a history of 300 miles with this engine, a new factory replacement engine.

"as noted in this thread" - the bulk of this thread refers to the original defective engine.

No its not normal for a new engine to use or lose a load of oil in just 80 miles.

Update: We've driven the car just at 300 miles. I've been checking the oil every 3-4 days and it's been fine, until today. I checked the oil - cold engine. The oil level is at the first hole in the dipstick. So, it's gone from the top hole to the bottom hole in about 80 miles. You can imagine the feeling I had when I saw that. I'm not touching it. It's going back to the dealer tomorrow to have them check the oil after it's sat for an hour.

 

Part of me wonders it it's slightly normal on a "new" engine, to burn some. But, given the history with this engine, I'm not as willing to accept that.

 

Any thoughts?

Shumax

What "history" do you have with that new engine?

Mine has 31K miles on it now and has never needed topping up between oil changes - it remained at the top hole on the dipstick throughout.

That sounds like the check valve (non-return valve) in the vacuum hose is not installed or not working - if its working it allows for the "storage" of vacuum in the brake booster housing, and utilizes that reservoir with no impact on the manifold vacuum.

I'm not familiar with your model, but some have the check valve at the end of the hose where it is inserted into the brake booster.