Special_K

Nick you are about half correct. The part you're right about: It is not a necessity for folks staying near stock due to low boost and with in factory spec. The incorrect part is the BOV is a safety/security modification and becomes a necessity with aftermarket turbos due to the higher accuracy needed when running higher boost on stock bottom ends. Please remember, as pioneers in the platform we have responsibility of providing non-biased and factual information based on long-term experience (10+ years) or other legitimate sources.

Mikula thank you for you input, would like to know how you dialed in -2 degrees of camber as this would help greatly with understeer and cornering. Next if you go into a parking lot with an edge on a stock alignment when wet and try to do any sort of maneuvering, there is only understeer and very little braking oversteer. Going down mountain or curvy roads does not show the characteristics of understeer as drastically as simple direction changes on a wet surface. A simple experiment to prove this is to take 3 cones, line them up with 30 feet in between them, try to slalom as quick as possible and what will occur is you either take out each cone due to understeer(insert Conekiller joke here), or you will actually not be able to make the turn and literally go past the slalom point.

The addition of a rear sway bar will be perfect for the edge as it has ALOT of body roll, and incorporating a rear sway bar will help stop extreme weight transfer keeping the vehicle more neutral in cornering. Adding a stiffer rear sway bar will help with: throttle lift oversteer into corners Neutral cornering under throttle, with possibility for slight oversteer Change hard brake understeer to possible neutral. Overall I foresee this research helping the handling and nimbleness of a 4400lb boat ;-)

Mikula, there is no need to respond like that, we are sharing information that is provided by manufactures. SNMJim provided the link to the turbosmart BOV for our cars for YOU to read more information about the product directly from the manufacturer to answer YOUR questions. Also, as you stated...said "EVENTS" would not cause an issue, just less accuracy and possible bypass at peak boost. The use of a stock BOV vs a quality aftermarket one is the equivalent accuracy difference of measuring in Centimeters vs millimeters. Next time you post, try to be constructive as we are trying to make headway in the platform. - Thanks

First, lets establish what a Blow Off Valve (BOV) is: The blow-off valve releases the pressure from the turbocharger before the inlet/intake manifold, when the throttle is closed the air has nowhere to go. It stops the air surging and going back through the compressor wheel. It's designed as a safety feature as far as the turbo is concerned. Next, how does it work: When the throttle is closed, a vacuum forms in the manifold. This in combination with the pressurized air from the turbocharger moves the piston in the valve up, releasing the pressure into the inlet of the turbo (Recirc.) or the atmosphere (Vent to atmosphere VTA). Now lets get into the myths about BOV, these are not to live by but give general concepts and of course there are exceptions to every example: Blow-off valve myth #1: One of the biggest misconceptions about blow-off valves is that you need to tighten the spring to run higher boost. This is totally incorrect (at least, for a GFB valve anyway), as you can see from the last paragraph, at full throttle, the pressure on the top and bottom of the valve is equal, therefore cancelling itself out. So no matter what boost pressure you run, the valve will stay shut. HOWEVER : Having said that, some factory valves (including the one used on the edge) have systems designed into them to crack open at high boost, in order to protect the engine from boost spikes. They do this by designing the pressure to be unequal on the top an bottom of the valve, thereby overcoming the spring at a certain pressure. Blow-off valve myth #2: The fluttering sound is usually believed to be the blow-off valve. In reality, it is caused by a blow-off valve, but does not come from the blow-off valve. If the spring pre-load is adjusted too tight, this will cause compressor surge, which as described above is the sound of air exiting the turbo. Having established the basics, why do you need a BOV for your car? If you intent is to tune and call it good, you do not need one. If your goal is to go fully bolted (intake, boost tunes, down pipes, intercooler, and exhaust. you still TECHNICALLY do not need one however the stock BOV will crack open at your newly found higher boost. If your goal includes the above plus better turbos you absolutely need one for precise control. So yes you are 98% correct. most people want the noise but it is also for the use of control as you stated. hope this helps

Also, sorry for not quoting, work computer freeks out when I try to do it. We are hopeful for mid to low 12's with a few other mods we have in the works. but since its cold out most of our work has come to a full stop.

@GT500R first my bad man I thought you said 550.00 for the intercooler Next: It was at an event called street racing made safe at Maryland International Raceway, on October 28th and records show temp was around 49 degrees, 30.12 "Hg, Dewpoint 44, and elevation of 80.....well damn.... I did the wrong math my bad guys..... DA was -670....that makes more sense. Sorry everyone. Second, all stats of run are unknown except speed and time. we had a spectator tell us our times. @NoDTMF - Snmjim is AWD and all we did was left foot brake, held around 2200 and just let off the break when the light turned green.

@GT500r Its not double the price....its 850.... and the drop was about 35 from the aftermarket one that Bishop is using.... forget the company. I'll ask when I get home. recovery was also a lot quicker from WOT pulls, and noticeably more timing up top.

But flogging with out safety is soooo much fun!! wait..... wrong flogging

I think you already know the answer to this one...but for everyone elses sake i'll repeat. No slip sadly.... we were at a street racing made safe event and they were only posting speeds and times on the board.... I came across at 11.89 at 116 in my S4 and he was right behind me with a 12.94 @ 106.

@GT500R did you post a link about it at all or share the link or part number??? 5% larger is fine but if it flows better and is bar and plate its thermal efficiency is substantially better than stock making it a good alternative. Have you taken a log with it?

@GT500R no slip sadly.... we were at a street racing made safe event and they were only posting speeds and times on the board.... I came across at 11.89 at 116 in my S4 and he was behind me with a 12.94 @ 106

@GTR500 I see that your signature says your running a CX racing intercooler....which one and how was fitment?

Snmjim ran 12.94 at 106 on e30 tune from unleashed. H&R Springs and Dropin K&N filter.

;-)

Bump

Admin, I understand that you have a thread. However I feel it would be more beneficial and helpful to all users to have a dedicated DIY section. It allows for specific threads to be started and give users the ability to ask questions. this is how its done in most other forums. if you do this I will gladly start to populate the section with my own and original DIY threads mentioned above. not just links.

Admin can you please create a high level and easily seen DIY section so I can post up the following DIY step by step instructional pages: Sping install BOV install RMM install Oil catch can install Intercooler shutter removal Cold air intake Etc. Thank you, Special K, Snmjim, Bishop

would like to step in really quick here for some edits: Snmjim: your qtr mile was 12.9 @105.3 Xtra: best dyno we had was 299whp@ 4907 and 365wtq @ 3875 With a 22% parasitic loss put him at 463tq with 445hp crank Special K OUT

Bump

Posted about the intercooler last week, I have a list of things I would like them to get going for our platform. Downpipes Intercooler and piping CAI RMM Rear Diff Mount inserts BOV

Good morning all, After doing some work on my fathers (Snmjimbo's) Edge this past weekend I noticed just how weak the rear motor mount is. After launching the car once you can hear the wheel hop and feel it. First has anyone started the R&D on this before I duplicate the effort? Second, If not I'm going to talk to CPE about a possible complete mount replacement or an insert. As for NVH, there should be less than a 5% increase due to the nature of the RMM.

Not revive an dead thread here but I have an 2016 Edge sport with in 2 hours of Wilmington, DE. @Nick Halstead, if this is still a possibility I'm all down for making the trip for R&D. I know the f-150 2.7L ecoboost benefited greatly from an intercooler upgrade so why wouldn't ours?