Bfazona

I had the same experience with mine and your battery was likely already on the way out. When they start to go bad, they do not hold a charge very well. Couple that with cold weather, and it sucks the charging power out of them quickly. If your battery was the original, then you were due for a battery, regardless of the low miles. Low mileage does nothing for battery life, as batteries are tied to physical time, usually lasting between 3-5 years.

I have done this. Had Monroe strut mounts first, which were garbage and then swapped them for Motorcraft.

Have you had the TSB performed on your Edge? It should still be covered and turned out to be my issue. I would be willing to bet this is the cause of your problem as well. Free to have Ford check the problem, just mention this TSB number when taking it in:

The stretchy belt is even more fun. And the belly pan cover is missing on mine, so one less thing I had to remove. Glad you got it figured out though.

I have heard of tensioners going bad on these engines. When I replaced my serpentine belts, I also put on a new tensioner as well. My old one definitely had some wobble to it. Is it just the pulley that is wobbling or the entire thing? If the whole thing is moving, I would check the bolts. Perhaps they are loose for some reason. If not, a new tensioner is your answer and it is relatively easy to change, just tight getting to the bolts.

I just replaced the entire rear suspension on my 2011 Sport. I can tell you that all of the bushings showed wear after 125k miles, and I can tell a ride difference after the upgrades. There are two adjustment bolts on each side and the ones in the center of the vehicle on the lower arm pictured above were impossible to get out. They were seized to the bushing sleeve from 8 years of rust and I had to cut them out. This definitely limited the adjustment of them, since I could not turn the bolt, which is required to set the camber. Both outer adjustment bolts were removed without issue. So if you take it in for an alignment, make sure those bolts are not frozen. While checking the suspension parts, make sure none of the bushings have excessive play. The sway bar end links tend to go bad and could give you problems as well.

Power Stop Z23 Evolution. I have them on all three of my vehicles and have been very happy. Great price, no dust and perform very well.

What shape are your calipers? Are the piston boots in good shape? Can you see rust on the pistons? Sounds like a piston that is seizing, which is very common on the Flex. Replacement calipers are not real expensive and I recently swapped out all four of mine.

Wheel bearing would be my guess as well. Ford is not known for the greatest wheel bearings. The Flex and Explorer both go through them, and I have experienced it firsthand with my wife’s Flex.

That is weird. Maybe the guy working the assembly line that day hooked you up.

I would say that the PCV has been changed before, and the previous owner could not remove the PCV from the hardened elbow. I assume the hose/elbow was different too? If it wasn't, maybe it was cut and a hose clamp put on to ensure a good seal. Either way, I would just say that it is only an indicator that it's been changed in the past. As for the valve cover, I only have experience in that department with my wife's EcoBoost Flex. Not sure if they are the same on the Edge or not, so I'll wait for somebody else to chime in on it. Good job on changing things out and overall, not a bad job, just a little time consuming due to all the things that need to come off.

I just swapped my front LCAs on my 2011 Sport a few weeks ago, and you can def do it with basic tools. A compressor would be helpful when removing some of the bolts, but not absolutely necessary. And I did mine with the vehicle on jack stands, then used the jack to support the knuckle assembly in an elevated position when reinstalling the LCA. Make sure you put the two bushings on the subframe on first, then the balljoint into the knuckle. And I would replace both tie rods, especially since you are already taking so much off. Another area for your clunk to check would be strut bearings. I already had to change mine out and did it when I replaced the struts.

Add me to the list of replaced brake boosters. However, I caught mine before it completely failed. I just replaced my brake rotors, pads and calipers, which did not improve the pedal feel. I decided to have the dealer check my booster, which turned out to be defective. Dealer replaced the booster under warranty and the brake pedal is right at the top. Great dealer experience, with diagnosis and repair same day. And I’m sitting at 130k on my 2011 Sport, so time was running out.

I would check the the belts, in addition to the tensioner mentioned above. Buying all of them is relatively inexpensive, so that might be an option.

Replaced the front control arms last night. Ball joints were still pretty tight, but had some play in the bushings. Suspension feels a lot tighter after the swap.

Finally got around to replacing all four rotors, pads, and calipers along with new rear wheel hub assemblies. While I was at it, I put on some new backing plates as well. Turned out really well and aesthetics are tremendously improved. I went with Hart rotors and ceramic pads, which I have used on numerous other vehicles with absolutely no issues. The calipers were Raybestos coated versions, which turned out to be rebuilt Motorcraft versions, so no complaint there. Everything turned out great and I have some other suspension items ready to go on soon as well, which might happen today.

Glad you got it figured out. And without spending any more money, so that's a huge win!

What you mentioned is why you do not want to use vice grips. Run the risk of damaging the strut piston. If you didn’t see any marks or marring, it’s probably fine.

The strut piston wants to turn when you tighten the nut, and you can't put vice grips or something on it, so the best option is an impact gun. The nuts usually have a nylon insert, so they won't thread on easily. If you do use the impact on it, just use short bursts. Hammering on it is not good for the strut internals. Let us know how you make out and if this was your issue.

Are you sure that the nut for the strut is tightened all the way on the strut mount? I assume yes, but I have had some that require getting hit quite a few times with the impact to cinch them all the way down.

I have an ‘11 Sport that mirrors yours minus the features. I actually looked for one without the dual roof setup, but I also do not have the BLIS. It has been great and has made it through one Indiana winter without issue. Anyhow, I would check your serpentine belts for the noise. I had a whine at lower speeds and idle, and did not sound like a traditional belt whine. I ended up replacing the serpentine and stretchy belts, along with the tensioner. My whine went away and the stretchy belt was pretty rough. I added a DriveBright HID kit and it is awesome. I can show you where I mounted things under the hood if you decide to give them a try. Also got the puddle lights from them and converted all the interior lights to LED. Just ordered all new rotors, pads and calipers for the next project. The seals on my calipers were torn and had some rust on the pistons, so I got new calipers, which were pretty cheap.

So was the strut mount new when replaced? The bearing in them typically goes bad and causes the noise when turning the wheel. I had to replace mine when I bought my '11 Sport, and replaced everything with new Motorcraft. Creaking noise was gone afterwards. Learned my lesson after replacing the strut mount on my wife's Flex with Monroe. Ended up taking it back apart, replacing the mounts with Motorcraft and fixed the issue.

Where are you located?

Will do. We got some snow and extreme cold weather that followed. Definitely a deeper tone at startup and idle, and you can hear it cruising too, but not an annoying drone that some exhausts give off.

I’ve got an ‘11 Sport and just added a Magnaflow exhaust. Got a great deal on one off CL and couldn’t pass it up. Of course I snapped one of the studs on the factory mid-pipe due to rust, but got it all buttoned up. Also added an AEM dry filter while I was at it.