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Gadgetjq

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Everything posted by Gadgetjq

  1. The OP was October 2015. That person might not even own the vehicle or be a member of the forum any longer. If you're having the same issue take a look at the easy clean and lube process posted here: https://www.gadgetjq.net/edge/roof/bamr.html Cheers!
  2. Note: These instructions with full size photos are posted on my Edge 'how to' site: https://www.gadgetjq.net/edge/charge/quick_connect.html Battery Charger Quick Connect (Almost) Never Be Surprised By A Drained Battery Again The life of a car battery is a hard one these days. It's under constant drain with systems always looking for a fob to unlock the doors, monitoring an alarm and even waiting for a remote start command. That's just part of the battle! The battery is obviously under the hood, practically on top of a hot engine and exhaust system. In winter it's sometimes dealing with sub zero temperatures while summer heat tries its best to siphon off energy. There is a huge assortment of battery chargers available. The problem is hooking those things up requires attaching the charger leads to the battery positive connector and a ground someplace. What if you mix those connections up? At best the (modern) charger will flash a light or emit a beep to notify you of the error. At worst friends and family will forever after be referring to you as 'Sparky.' This cheap and easy mod ends the guess work, does away with alligator clips and (depending on your installation) might even eliminate opening the hood. Here's how: What You'll Need If you hate wiring or just want to do this the easiest way possible, get one of these from Amazon. The pigtail is already made up and simply attaches directly to your battery posts, no muss no fuss. Note you'll need the matching plug on your charger or you'll end up snipping it off and doing the mod below. The Alternative 1 - Each male and female quick connector. Commonly called 'pigtails' (shown at the top of this page and photo (left)) these are easy to find on eBay, Amazon and other sources. At 10 for $10 it's easy to see this project isn't going to break the bank. You'll have enough to do every car in the family fleet! Several feet of 18 gauge wire. Exactly how much will be determined by where you want to install your quick connect and the location of your battery. This 50 foot spool from Amazon will be plenty for this project and probably many others. It's good quality wire with one red and one black insulator making connections easy. 2 - Crimp connectors for connecting the wire to your battery and a vehicle ground. If you use a spade type (as opposed to the ring type shown) you won't have to remove the battery connector or the ground nut. Just loosen them, slip your connector over the bolt or stud and tighten the nut back down. Assorted simple items for splicing on an additional length of wire including butt splices or solder and shrink tubing (recommended) or electrical tape. A length of 1/4 or 3/8" plastic wire loom available at Harbor Freight, Amazon and other outlets. This isn't required but produces a factory appearance for your wiring. If you've done other projects under the hood you might have already used some of this product and can run your new wires through that. 1 - Battery Charger of your choice. As mentioned earlier these come in all shapes and sizes and prices. You pretty much get what you pay with multiple modes and ability to charge different types of battery. You definitely want to make sure you get a taper charger that will start at whatever amperage it's rated for (usually 6 or 8 for home units) then taper down to 1-amp or less when your battery is fully charged. That's to prevent overcharging and ruining your battery. Another charger type is referred to as a 'maintainer.' Again there are many available, probably the most famous is the Battery Tender brand. Shop carefully because different maintainers might be designed for different battery types (flooded/gel). These are low amperage and not really designed to 'charge' a battery though they will given enough time. Optional but strongly suggested an inline fuse. Place this as close as possible to the positive battery terminal with a fuse size appropriate for the amperage of your charger's output. I.E. don't use a 5 amp fuse if your charger puts out 8 amps. I know, I know, but somebody's going to do it and wonder why their battery didn't charge. How To Do It The Short Version: This is really all you're doing. Below you'll find a very detailed step-by-step but you can skip it all if you can connect a couple of crimp connectors to a plug and (optionally) add a fuse. The Detailed Version (for running the plug all the way to the front of the Edge) 1. Place the female quick connector where you ultimately want to install it. Some will choose a location under the hood (mine pictured at right is between the radiator and headlight on the driver's side) while others might want to leave it accessible someplace in the grille so the hood doesn't even have to be opened. With the connector in place, measure along your wiring path to the positive connector (longest run) of the battery. Be generous with your measurement. It's a lot better to have a few inches too many than to come up short and have to do another splice. Note: For this picture I removed the wire loom. When finished the red wire is, literally, invisible. 2. With the measurement done and the appropriate amount of wire pulled from a spool splice your 18 gauge wire to the pigtail keeping track of positive (red) and negative (black). You can use butt (crimp) splices or solder and shrink tube the connection. As long as it's solid you'll be good to go. 3. Make your wire run along the most efficient path toward the battery. If you'll be using wire loom you don't have to get fancy yet but you 'should' make sure the wire is running over or under any obstacles. Notice in the photo (right) the Edge has a handy dandy ground point already located on the firewall. Measure and cut your 'black' wire at that junction and add your crimp connector. Do Not cut the red wire. Loosen the nut, slide your connector over the stud and tighten the nut. You're almost home. 4. Run your red wire over to the positive battery connector and cut to the appropriate length. Add your crimp connector, carefully loosen the 10mm terminal nut, slip your connector on and carefully tighten the nut again. I empathize carefully because we have not disconnected the negative battery cable. If your wrench comes in contact with any metal part of the car you're going to get a huge blinding spark that will leave a mark on you or your car. If this possibility bothers you, go ahead and disconnect the negative battery cable before starting the wiring process. Note: For this photo I pulled the loom back so you can see the (blue) connectors at the battery and ground lug. The 10 amp fuse is a little lower and out of the shot. 5. With your wiring run and connected it's time to make everything pretty so start tucking your wiring into the loom if you've chosen to use it. This extra ten minutes of your time will really finish off the project. 6. You're finished with the car portion of the project. Whether you need to take the next leap depends on your charger. Some are already fitted with a quick connector. If that's the case with yours and it's the same type/size you've installed (except it's the male side of the plug) you're finished. If not, go to the next step. 7. It looks like we have a little more work to do. You'll need to cut the alligator clips or 'other' style quick connector off and replace it with the 'male' connector you purchased for this project. Before cutting take careful note of which side of the wire is positive (red alligator clip) and negative (black clip) and mark them if the polarity isn't already obvious. Now cut the original connectors off a few inches behind the point the molded cable comes back together. Doing it this way means you just have one part to store for the future instead of two. 8. Splice the male quick connector onto the charger cable again noting polarity. 9. You're Done! Plug the charger (male) side of your quick connect into the car (female) plug then connect your charger to shore power. If all of your connections were done correctly there won't be any red flashing lights or sirens, no black helicopters hovering overhead. You'll have appropriate power and charging lights on your charger. If you still have some daylight go add a quick connector to another car in your fleet...then invite the kids over to do theirs! Better yet, hand them one male and one female connector along with a couple of crimp connectors and let them do their own.
  3. I think you might have missed the point of the mod. It's purely for convenience, a very simple way to connect a charger if it's needed. The majority of people will never connect something like this to their battery. Heck, the majority of people will just wait until the battery dies then call Triple-A. Then they'll visit a forum or Facebook group to complain about how their batteries just don't last very long. This portion of the forum is for people who enjoy modifying their vehicles and this is just one tiny (and very cheap) way to do that. Cheers!
  4. No issues and I want it to stay that way. When using FORScan I keep a charger plugged in just to partly offset battery drain. If the Edge is going to be parked for several days I'll plug in a battery tender just to top it off and maintain a full charge.
  5. Gadgetjq

    Hood release handle

    These pages from the factory service manual should help: Hood Latch Release Cable.pdf Hood Latch Release Handle.pdf
  6. Hi Omar, I followed your instructions and....yep, the hatch opened as normal. I 'have' noticed in he past I have to press the button with a little bit of authority. Just tapping it often doesn't work.
  7. Mods & Accessories seems like a good place to post this. HOLD OFF, ABORT, WARNING, WARNING! I updated my firmware yesterday then tried to load and use FORScan this morning. While loading I noticed a ton of DTCs. What the? When trying to make a small change (testing a new on/off toggle for the liftgate kick sensor) FORScan couldn't read the BDYCM module. Hmmm. So I rolled the MX+ update back to the previous version and connected to the Edge again. Everything's good. SO there may be something wrong with the new firmware. I'd suggest not updating yet. I'll contact OBDLink and let you know if they have a comment. Original post: If you're using an OBDLink code reader with FORScan or any other program/app that uses an OBDII reader there's probably an update waiting for you right now. The company has posted new firmware for their popular EX, MX and MX+ models over the past couple of weeks. Here's a link to the downloads page. Just choose your device to download: https://www.scantool.net/scantool/downloads/updates/ Note: To install just unzip the folder, connect your laptop to the OBDLink code reader (your Edge can be in accessory mode) then run StnFirmwareUpdater.exe . If you're connecting to a wireless device you might have to hunt down the com port being used. The updater defaults to Com 4 but my device (MX+) connected on Com 14. Cheers!
  8. That doesn't sound normal. I just went out and checked mine ('16 Ti) and that button opens the hatch as long as the car is in park whether the engine is running or not, doors are locked or not.
  9. This item has been added to the Gadget Edge Mods Page: https://www.gadgetjq.net/edge/forscan/forscan.html#lgate Toggle The Liftgate Kick Sensor Off/On There seems to be a love/hate relationship with the liftgate kick sensor. Many love it for the convenience of being able to open or close the hatch with an easy foot movement toward the bumper. It's usually the 'close' part that some don't care for, especially when the liftgate tries to close while a human is leaning into the cargo compartment. It's doing that because the sensor (mounted under the bumper) thinks it sees a kick when it might simply be a normal foot movement. If that happens to you and you have a Gen2 Edge (2015-) the sensor can be turned off. To make the change, start FORScan and navigate to the BdyCM Module Configuration (not AsBuilt) and scroll down to "Hands Free Liftgate". Click twice on that item and you'll see a box that lets you Enable or Disable the feature. Click Disable then save it. You'll hear the familiar relay clicking from under the dash, your lights will flash and...you're done! Try the kick sensor. If the change has been successful it won't work (until you turn it on again) but the open/close buttons on the liftgate still function normally. Cheers!
  10. I did the annual maintenance on the BAMR today and tried a couple of new things. If having your roof close smoothly in about 6 seconds appeals to you, read on. After reading the Ford issued moonroof maintenace steps ( Edge Roof Opening Panel Track Cleaning.pdf ) I used a PTFE spray lube from WD40 instead of last years gooey (but very slippery) Dielectric grease. https://amzn.to/3c6qQQq I chose to 'skip' inserting a garden hose in the track, that's just asking for trouble. For my next trick, instead of shotgun cleaning patches I used something from the bride's bag o' tricks called 'rounds.' https://amzn.to/2Vq1PZF They're thick cotton pads used for Lord knows what but hey, they work great wiping out the old grunge from tracks. You should use something to push the pad along the track (like the wire handle of a bottle brush or small dowel) because it's a dangerous place in there for bare fingers. Be sure to use the smooth (can't see cotton fibers) side for minimal shedding. Step 1 With the roof closed, push a soap and water soaked pad down into the slot between the rubber dust shields behind the BAMR. Push the pad along with a stiff wire (handle from a bottle brush works great) then retrieve the pad after a couple of passes. Keep doing that (damp then dry pads) until the pad comes out clean. Spray with the WD40 PTFE lube along the length of the 'slot.' Wait a few minutes for the lube to dry and open your moon roof. Step 2 Now it's time to clean the visible tracks. My first pass was, again, with a pad soaked in a soap and water solution. It had a 'lot' of old Dielectric grease to remove. A second pad dampened with clear water helped get a little more grunge out and a third and fourth dry pads shined everything up. Hint: Have a pick or something similar to retrieve the pad if you lose it while pushing back into a dark space under the front edge of the glass. Use a rag or towel to protect the inside of your car and spray the tracks with the PTFE. Give it a few minutes to dry. Start your engine and push the button to close the roof. It's going to move so quickly you'll want to try it again. My roof is now closing from full open in 6.1 seconds so it's all good.
  11. Gadgetjq

    2010 Edge Limited running 22's and suspect hub issue

    This is interesting: https://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Edge/2010/recalls/wheel-may-not-mount-securely-on-wheel-hub-17e053000.shtml
  12. I'd try local auto salvage first (looking for a '15-'18 Edge) and if that doesn't work out hit the online vendors like https://www.car-part.com/ As already discussed the drawer looks like the photo (below) and just snaps right into the area your panel occupies. Use a coin holder (also discussed earlier with links) to hold your small change.
  13. If you're using Android Auto in your Edge you should check out this Android Central article. There may be some tricks you've missed: https://www.androidcentral.com/how-use-new-android-auto?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+androidcentral+(Android+Central)&utm_content=FeedBurner
  14. Gadgetjq

    LED brake lights delayed turn off

    This probably has nothing to do with the LED bulbs which actually react 'more' quickly than incandescent bulbs. Find your brake light switch near the brake pedal. It's probably gotten a little sticky over the years. Give it a quick squirt of silicone lube then work the pedal a few times. Fixed?
  15. I've added a couple of storage tips (solutions?) to the Gadget Console Mod page posted earlier: https://www.gadgetjq.net/edge/console/console.html#more More Storage Tips If your co-pilot is always looking for a spot to place their phone or you need a spot to keep small things take a look at this! It's a drop in 'cup' that turns your front door handle into a storage space. Double sided tape is pre-installed on the bottom if you choose to stick them in place or leave them loose to take your M&Ms with you. The padded (rubber) label with the Edge monogram sits loose on the bottom of the cup to make cleaning simple. The photo (right) shows just the cup, on the left it's installed. Have you looked at the outside edge of your front seats and wondered what that little tray is for? The owner's manual is no help for this one. Some have suggested it's a simple effort to catch things you've dropped before they can roll under the seat. That might be right but....it's also a handy dandy place to keep your collapsible bumbershoot (umbrella).
  16. Gadgetjq

    New Storage Solutions

    Tons! You need to identify what you need then start searching for it. eBay is a good place to start but there are so many specialty sites (Pinterest, Etsy, Instructables etc) now where people are selling lots of creative items. If all else fails create your own solution. Do the console mod! That should work just as well for the 1st gen Edge. Check out a few of these pages: https://www.pinterest.com/organizingmoms/car-organization/ https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/organizing/g2414/car-organizing-ideas/ https://www.happychappybrands.com/car-organization-hacks/
  17. Reading the owner's manual for your year there's no mention of a shock alarm, only unauthorized entry. That's the same as other edges with the OEM system. If you're certain nobody has ever installed an aftermarket shock sensor I'd suspect a faulty hood or other door switch. Just for grins n' giggles lock your Edge then try slapping the front of the hood. If that doesn't do anything try each door. That'll help when you take the car to the dealership to have it repaired.
  18. Hi Sledwrecker, Nice job describing your project! This is going to be helpful to anyone else planning to upgrade their Gen2 Sony system. A request. Can you post a photo of the behind the glovebox location of the pac? I've mounted a front camera module in that same area (cross brace above the glove box) but suspect your solution is a better one. Thanks!
  19. Gadgetjq

    New Storage Solutions

    See how smart you are? I live in the Desert Southwest so umbrellas aren't exactly top of mind items until monsoon season arrives. That's when I'm usually asking the bride if she remembers where 'I' put the umbrella last summer
  20. Several model numbers are being recalled because they can unexpectedly collapse (not a good thing in a jack stand). Here's a link with all the info you'll need: https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/harbor-freight-recall-jackstands-collapse/?ServiceType=facebook_page&TheTime=2020-05-19T23%3A00%3A12&UniqueID=7EC4748E-9A24-11EA-8E3A-80CAC28169F1&ftag=COS-05-10aaa0a&PostType=link&fbclid=IwAR16iajXdOMeKQPrNjEvEkVtP7YDiMqXeCHO5pZf0ihMnyIUCumQ0eQwAYY
  21. Gadgetjq

    2015-2018 V6 Edges still have internal coolant pump?

    The water pump is still internal in the 2018 3.5L but gaskets, drive chains and other parts are vastly improved over your 2008 version. With proper maintenance the pumps in 2011 and later Edges are (mostly) lasting a very long time.
  22. Gadgetjq

    2011-2014 3.7 V6 Edges still have internal coolant pump?

    In 2011 the 'internal' water pump was upgraded with better gaskets, a double roller chain to drive the pump and, I believe, an extra weep hole that helps give fair warning in the event of gasket failure. The water pump in all 3.5 and 3.7 Edges are internal through 2018. The engine was discontinued in the Edge in 2019 in favor of the 2.0L and 2.7L Ecoboost engines. Regular maintenance including coolant changes every 30k miles along with oil changes as required seem to have reduced the failure problem significantly. In fact complaints have 'almost' disappeared for Gen2. The big issue now is coolant intrusion into the block of the 2.0L engine.
  23. Gadgetjq

    Touchy brakes

    I'm happy to hear it worked for you TK! Now to retrain your braking foot to press just a little harder than before.
  24. A Car & Driver article mentioned the piped in sound for the ST noting it only happens when the 'sport' button is pressed. That kind of makes sense.
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