Samurai Edge

First guess: Check for loose calipers and brake pads

How long has this noise been an issue? Other than that, you haven't specified anything about vehicle maintenance, etc.

Agreed. They would look at the service schedule and go by that. Check your paperwork on the transmission check performed by the dealer to see if anything is noted. Check your paperwork on the vehicle sale / service at time of purchase and see what is states for fluid changes.

First and most obvious question: Was the transmission fluid ever changed? Most likely not and you probably have no idea how that car was treated before you bought it. Step 1: Change the transmission fluid Whenever one buys a used car, one has to expect to perform routine maintenance, at least, on the car just purchased.

So, you think getting hot coolant splashed in your face is bad? Check! 🙂

It's really not that hard to find

I did a quick look for the recommended PTU fluid for a 2010 Ford Edge. Indeed, it states 75W140 so I would not deviate from that either. My guess is that the main difference between the 2010 PTU and the 2020 ( maybe 2019+ ) is that the newer PTUs have tighter tolerances, hence the factory calls for a thinner gear oil. Other than that, not sure why they would change gear oil weights

I guess the 2020 units are more " sensitive ". 🙂

Sorry to hear about your new hair gel, etc. Been there, done that before. It can be a real mess. The Ford Dealer is full of it. " Lifetime " is a relative term. What does "Lifetime " actually mean to the Dealer? In many cases, " Lifetime " refers to how long a manufacturer estimates how long car will be on the road, or maybe just under warranty. So, 5 years? The better way to drain any fluid from the car is to start with the car level. It does make a difference. Not doing so can leave fluids back in corners, cavities, etc., where it will stay nd not come out, leaving old fluid in there, which you do not want. The Ford Edge PTU calls for XY75W85QL, which is a 75W85 weight fluid. Your 75W140 is way too thick. This can cause damage to your PTU. I suggest doing it all over again. Make sure the car is level when you suction out the 75W140 and pushing in the XY75W85QL. Options for refill: Red Line 50104 75W85 GL-5 Hypoid Limited Slip ( Full Synthetic ) Motul Gear 300 75w90 105777 ( Full Synthetic ) When I did mine last year I pulled all the old fluid out 14 oz ( 414 ml ) and put in 16 oz ( 473 ml ) before I got a slight drip from the fill hole. I had virtually no mess. You can do it.

Have you tried having someone else in the car with you, sitting in the back to see if they hear it louder in the back than you hear it in the front? If not responding to deceleration, and I am presuming with brake added, then most likely not the brakes. Another possibility: Could the whining / humming noise be coming from the driveshaft bearings?

I vacuumed out my PTU fluid as my PTU does not have a drain plug. I got ( most likely ) all of the old fluid out. When vacuuming, you have to move the vacuum hose around into the corners to get it all. I actually was able to put more fluid in than I took out by a small amount.

You need to better describe " hitting hard ". What does that mean to you? A better understanding of what you are actually feeling can help get you a better answer. Are you hearing a bump? Do you feel you the car is bottoming out on the bump stops? Does it sound like something is loose / clanging? Please update so you can get better help.

Bearings tend to have more of a squealing noise rather than a grr noise. Have you checked to see if anything is rubbing in your fan shroud?

I think this should help you.

I know people who are all over social media. They follow it daily. Some send me links which, of course, I don't have access to. Thank GOD! I have one friend who follows all types of social media for his work, always tells me it's a good thing I am not on social media. All the dis-information, lies, arguments, etc. can be overwhelming. While true, this forum and others like it are social media, they can be in a different class as opposed to the ones all the others follow like Tic-Tok, etc. who are so easily manipulated by those platforms.

As I stated, I'm not a Facebook User. I only provided the link for those who may have access. Social Media sites like Facebook, etc. are definitely not my thing. I don't venture to those places. They may have been a good thing when they started but unfortunately they have devolved into, well . . . . I don't really have to say it because most intelligent people already know.

Everyone has to base their decisions on their particular situation at that particular time. For all you know, your car could have been at the dealership for a month or more while they " diagnosed it " and you still may have wound up paying the same price as the one you decided to purchase.

It would be curious to know if the cure has remained. As I read through this today, I too was thinking vapor lock but I was also thinking something else: Presuming the issue has returned ( hopefully not ) have you ever had the starter checked? Years ago I had similar issues with my Subaru WRX, which has gone to pasture 6 years ago. I checked several things and after researching possible issues, I replaced the starter and the problem went away permanently. Just a thought

Before you go down the toasted BCM module path, double check the contacts on the FOBs to make sure they are clean and are making good contact if the battery re-set does not help.

It also depends on where JustinH bought his batteries from. If bought over the internet, it's not uncommon for the batteries to be end-of-life already when received. I always buy batteries from local sources and check the expiration date before purchase. Agreed. Something is amiss

II had to change the batteries once in my FOBs. I had to look around to find the correct battery. So, just a question, well, let's make that three questions: 1. Are you sure you purchased the correct battery? 2. Are you sure the battery is making correct contact? 3. Are you sure you put the battery right side up? I have changed batteries before when I wasn't paying enough attention and either put the batteries in backwards or did not seat the battery fully. One more thing: Check the battery contacts for corrosion. You will need to clean that up if it exists.

Parts shopping can always be confusing. Whoever creates the on-line shopping page does not always use correct pictures / diagrams. I see it all the time on all kinds of websites. For the part question, see where the part states, and above that it states 2019 - 2024 Ford EDGE Those are the key points

Well, you don't have to be so mean about it 😭 😭 😭 The problem is, if you even bothered to look, which you obviously did not, that OEM ST headlamp assembly can be had for under $800. https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-headlamp-asy_kt4z-13008-ay.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Edge&year=2020&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=446;e=414) The remaining $2200 would be the dealership labor charge to remove two ( 2 ) bolts, unplug a couple of wires and then reverse the process to install the new one.