ls973800

I went back and checked where I had read about the premium fuel. It was actually copied from the owner's manual and states for the 2.0 EcoBoost "Premium fuel will provide improved performance and is recommended for severe duty usage such as trailer tow." So they are saying improved performance for the EcoBoost, yet they don't have that for the 3.5/3.7 V6 engines. Since 87 regular is stated as recommended I apologize for stating premium is the recommended fuel, although for improved performance it can be used. I always thought that turbo charged engines use the oil for lubing and cooling the turbo, and is more prone to break down from the higher heat. At one time owner's of turbos were not supposed to shut their cars off until sitting for a minute or two to allow the turbos to cool. That is why I thought there was a higher capacity of oil and a need for more frequent oil changes plus special oil. The EcoBoost engine calls for 5w30 and the 3.5/3.7 for 5w20. Costs should be the same.

I had started my search using the web and checking various Ford dealerships here in the Dallas area. I ran across some Auto Nation dealers who had their inventory and prices on line. I checked the prices and found some to be the A/Z plan price. I called and was told that was a price for everyone. I drove to the nearest one (50 miles each way) and found that was indeed the price, with no dealer add on items or additional fees or costs! Since they were 50 miles away and I like to have my services done where I buy my cars, I checked a local Ford dealer and showed him the web site with the prices shown. He agreed to sell me the Edge Limited I found on his lot at the A/Z price matching what the other dealer was selling for. I was showed and received a copy of the invoice, and it was in fact the A/Z price. I paid that plus the additonal tint, factory rubber floor mats, rear cargo cover, and wheel locks that I had them add. I would have purchased from the other dealer except for the long distance for service or warranty work. I don't know what area you live in or how many Ford dealers there are. If I only had one or two in this area and could save an additional $2000.00 or so by buying from a dealer further away, I would. Here is a link with the Auto Nation Ford dealers listed. Maybe you have one in your area, or can use them as a bargaining tool if their prices are lower than what your local dealers are offering. As I mentioned, there was also one other owner here in the Dallas area who also posted that he got the A/Z plan price from a dealer with no gimmicks. I don't recall if he bought from one of the Auto Nation stores. http://www.autonation.com/?action=contact&subaction=dealerlist&locatorsearchtype=make&make=Ford

Many people have determined that the additional cost of about $1000.00 to get the EcoBoost engine really balances out the fuel savings cost over the first 5 years or so. I believe the EcoBoost may also cost more to maintain with premium fuel, more oil in the sump, more frequent oil changes, etc. I went with a 2013 Limited with the V-6 and could not be happier. You driving style and miles driven each year will have to be considered when comparing the cost between each engine.

X plan on your vehicle is ABOUT $39240. You will not be able to negotiate down to $37k and then apply X plan because your negotiated price is way better than the X plan price. X plan is a set price which the dealer will not come of off. It is an OK price but not the best you can get. It is a quick and easy way to get a decent price without negotiating. I was going to use my X plan when I was shopping for a similar 2013 Limited last July. Sticker was $41530, invoice shows $39121.67 X plan price was $39240.18 as shown on a copy of the dealers invoice which he provided me with. I was able to obtain the A/Z price from two separate dealers, which was $37564.67. I am not nor have ever been an employee of Ford which is what the A/Z plan price is for. I added a few additional item including front window tint, factory rubber all season floor mats front and rear, factory rear cargo cover, and factory wheel locks. The price I paid was $37718.00 I was able to get the A/Z plan just by negotiating with them, and one of them even had this price posted on their website. This price is what I paid BEFORE any factory incentives and special Ford financing. After the factory and finance rebate total of $2000.00 I ended up paying $35718.00 before taxes. After joining this forum, I heard from another owner here in the Dallas area who also obtained the A/Z price with very little effort. X plan is set by Ford and the dealer has to follow the program rules in order to be reimbursed by Ford. There is room on any trade in, but not much more wiggle room when staying with the X plan.

For model years 2011 and up your hub centers are larger than what is on the newer years. Hub centric rings would have to be used and a different TPMS sensor and attachment would have to be installed replacing the ones from your 2010, again a change on the 2011 and newer models. Just letting you know if you didn't already. I would hate to see you ship these and then a buyer wanting his money back plus all shipping if he tried putting them onto a newer Edge and they didn't fit without additional costs.

Were you able to find if your Edge has the enhanced display?

On page 114 of my owner's manual, it shows how to navigate through the different display choices for my duel screen displays. Page 116 shows how to choose the enhanced features for the fuel, time, gallons used, etc. I have a 2013 Limited with Sync and My Ford Touch. I'm not sure what option you have for your Edge or if you just have the single screen display above the steering wheel. If you have just the single screen, page 108-109 of my owner's manual shows there may be the enhanced settings for fuel used, trip time, etc. It looks like you have to scroll through each reading, whereas on mine once I select enhanced, all the information is displayed at once on the left screen. No need for me to scroll to each individual reading. Mine has to the right of the steering wheel an info screen for climate, navigation, entertainment, and phone. To the left of the steering wheel is another info screen, which shows selections including Display Mode, Trip 1 & 2, Fuel Economy, Settings, and Information. This is the screen you use to find the enhanced fuel readings. You will actually go into the Trip 1 & 2 menu, not the Fuel Economy setting where you would think it would be. In the Trip 1 & 2 menu, select standard display or enhanced display. Standard will only show trip distance and elapsed trip time. Enhanced will show trip distance, elapsed trip time, average fuel economy, estimated amount of fuel consumed, and total odometer. What I like about the elapsed trip time is that it is actually an hour meter which runs whenever the engine is running. It stops when you shut off the car, and continues again from the last reading when you start it up again. You can reset it whenever you want back to 0 hours and minutes. I use trip 2 to accumulate miles and hours/minutes until I do my next oil change. I only reset trip 2 when I do an oil change (every 5000 miles). This gives me a good record of engine hours, miles driven, and MPG average over those 5000 or so miles.

Keep plugging away, Dan! I'm sure the final product will be very well designed and built. I'm waiting in line to get a set.

I have always used the info center mpg calculations and was very pleased to see an average of 22-24 mpg per tank. This is mainly freeway driving, not too much city stop and go. In the last several months, thanks to some information posted on this forum, I was able to find how to display an enhanced info which includes mpg, gallons used, hours running, etc. I have noticed that I can always get at least 1-1.5 gallons more into the tank than what the display says I used. Yesterday, I put just a little over 2 more gallons in, and this was not to the point where it was spilling out of the filler tube. My display said I used 10 something, I put in over 12 gallons. That is over 20% more than what it says I used! My mpg display said 23 but my hand calculation said 20.3 with the amount of fuel I used. Not feeling so good anymore about the REAL mpg I am getting, especially since the display is over 10% off on mpg, and 20% off on gallons used. I really don't know if there is anything the dealer can do to correct this. I've seen similar posts about the same inaccurate readings, but never saw if there was a fix. I guess from now on I will be keeping a close eye and recording the differences, so that next time I'm at the dealer I can at least document the problem.

This ebay seller is not supposed to be selling these DRLs in North America (using N.A. ebay). I will be making a Skype call tonight to my manufacturer in China to have a conversation about this. My manufacturer and I made an agreement that I will selling these exclusively in North America. If you are saying that you are to be the ONLY seller of these units in North America, I think you may be in for a rude awakening! The Chinese have no ethics when it comes to violating copyrights or selling agreements. I wouldn't be surprised to find out that your design plans have already left through the back door of the manufacturing plant (if it is in China) and there are copies already waiting to be made. I know you have built this business up and really do wish you well. I have been waiting since December when we first spoke about the DRL's and you mentioned in January or so about waiting for your new design. The Chinese have no respect for anything if they can copy it and sell them. Good luck, and I am looking forward to seeing the final version of these from your company, not from a knock off Chinese business.

Use this calculator to see the difference between the tire sizes. It will show height, width, sidewall difference, etc. It will also show the effect on the speedometer reading. Rule of thumb is you don't want to make a change to the speedometer of plus or minus 3%. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

One of the hardware stores I stopped at had a vast selection of rivets and those expandable plastic ones. Almost like some of those drywall anchors that when you run the screw into it, it expands against the back side of the wall (Molly bolts I think they are called.) I found something similar which worked the same way. The biggest problem was finding something other than 1/2 inch or 5/8 in thick that is for drywall. I believe I needed something about 1/4 inch or a little less after going through the plate frame and the grill. I didn't use the Ford ones because when I drilled out the factory rivets the hole ended up larger in diameter than what is drilled at the factory.

The hub opening on the 2013 is around 63mm. The hub on your 2008 is around 71mm. I know there is a wheel seller on eBay who has a machine shop open up the smaller hub openings when he sells to a customer with a larger hub. I have never heard of an adapter which will allow a smaller hub wheel to fit onto a larger hub axle. This is copied from a Google search about putting a smaller hub onto a larger hub. If the hub diameter is smaller that the axle, the wheel will simply not fit. Most aftermarket wheels are therefore made with larger hub diameters to ensure that they will fit on a wide range of cars. Even if you get the wheels machined, you will still need to replace the TPMS sensors. The ones for your 2008 are completely different than the ones on the 2013. You will have to install yours into the 2013 wheels with the old style attachment belt instead of the 2013 system that just mounts the TPMS to the wheel at the valve stem area.

I had removed my front plate bracket from my Limited which has a chrome front grill. Most major hardware stores or Home Depot type stores have a huge selection of plugs you can buy. They carry all different sizes and colors, including chrome colored. I ended up putting my plate back on due to state law.

Are you referring to the BLISS mirrors which have an amber light come on when a vehicle is in your blind spot? If so, I don't think just replacing the glass in the mirror will enable that feature. Other than the amber light, there is nothing else different between the regular mirror and the BLISS mirror AFAIK. I believe the BLISS works with additional sensors and RF transmitters. I have the BLISS on my 2013 and do like it.

The door switch problem has been mentioned on several posts, and many are the 2011 models. It is covered under bumper to bumper warranty if you have any remaining.

Here's the belt buckle work around you need for your days on campus! Doubles as a bottle opener also! Use at your own risk! http://bottlestoppers0.3q.org/1pc-2-in-1-black-abs-billet-steel-hassle-free-car-safety-seat-belt-insert-plug-buckle-clasp-alarm-stop-canceller

Do you have any national brand tire shops near you, such as Discount Tire, etc? They deal with stripped studs on a daily basis and I am sure they will not charge $200.00 just to change one, or $600.00 if the hub is bad. Do a search for "wheel stud replacement" and you will see this is actually a job many owner's could do themselves. It's really a simple procedure and the studs themselves are relatively inexpensive. I don't know if there are any aftermarket studs designed specifically for times when the hub itself may be damaged from a stripped out stud. Here's one link to give you an idea of how simple and inexpensive the replacement should be. http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/wheel_stud_repl.htm

Biggest concern would be the hub bore size. Since you have a 2011 Edge, the bore on your car is the smaller one (63 mm or so if I recall correctly.) When I was checking into getting Explorer wheels for my 2013 Edge (same hub bore as yours) I never could get a direct answer as to what size hub bore the Explorer has. I even asked over on the Explorer forum and couldn't get a definite answer. Some said it was the smaller size, and others said it was a larger size (around 70 mm). If it's larger, you can always add hub centric rings to make up the size difference. If it's the smaller size, it will be a direct fit.

I had posted about a month or so ago about the same complaint, the auto lights not coming on soon enough. I was going to try and find the top cover of the sensor in a junk yard and try making some type of cover for it. Something made out of a mesh material which would block some of the light to allow it to turn on sooner. I like your idea better. I didn't think the top cover part would just pop off with a screwdriver. I was afraid I would have to get under the dash to remove it. Thanks for the tip and hopefully in the next several weeks I can get to this.

I have a 2013 which I have been recording some music onto a USB flash drive. I have been going back and forth with the drive to check on the recordings as I make them, and trying some different options to get the cover art to show. I have been putting the key (keyless ignition so really just pushing the button) until I get into the ACC mode. When I do, the last source for the radio (FM, XM, USB, etc) will start playing. It never reverts to AV. It does index and build voice commands but only for the first time the drive has been inserted with new music on it. Once it indexes and build the commands, it will not do it again until new music is added to it. I have added a code to the keyless pad on the drivers door, and have never had a problem with it taking the new code. I have never had to re-enter the code due to it not working more than once. I have nav, MFT, and the keyless start.

Just wondering why there might be a hidden USB port in that area? The purpose of the USB is that it is handy for the driver or passenger to use, not something that has to be found by disassembling pieces of trim or panels. No, there is no USB in that area or anywhere else in the vehicle except for the two USB ports inside the center console. I don't know if those two are standard or part of a package. My 2013 Limited with MFT and Nav has those two in the console. Do you have those there?

You should be able to send him a message from his web site I would think. Just use the Contact Us button on the left hand side of the homepage. http://www.daytimebrightlites.com/

10V on a battery is not good at all. I think the battery has caps which can be taken off and the fluid level checked? I am out of town right now and don't have the Edge with me but I think I remember seeing the caps on my 2013. Sounds like it could be a dry cell(s) or a bad cell(s).