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Perhaps things are changing for the 2014 model year. That spec sheet just shows all FWD as being 63.1 and all AWD as being 69.79 for the front. The rears are the same at 70.12. There has to be a difference somewhere to get the different sweep area numbers. May not be bigger calipers but bigger brake pads which fit the same calipers? RockAuto is showing the same Motorcraft/Ford part numbers as being the same for both the 3.5 and 3.7 engines, and have no separate category for FWD and AWD regarding the brake parts using a 2011 as the year. I really don't know where the different sweep numbers come from, but it looks like the brake components (replacement) are all the same regardless of model, engine, or drive type.

At the milage you have on it I would just go ahead and replace the PCV valve if there is one to replace. Sure won't hurt anything and it's a relative inexpensive part. Rock Auto is showing the Ford Motorcraft PCV # EV257 for the non electric heated PCV for $6.53. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[year_1993]=true&ck[mkt_US]=true&ck[mkt_EU]=false&ck[mkt_CA]=true&ck[mkt_MX]=true&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=48mrosba3jhd8m51aeaok3fqa6

I was actually talking about the vertical lamps that are shown in the second video. I just wanted to verify that if you just disconnect the harness you don't need to remove the light assembly themselves in order to remove the bumper. They can remain in the bumper but naturally the harness has to be disconnected.

I really don't know if the wiring is in place or not. Yes, I still have two sets of these and shipping would be $6.00 Thanks, Steve PS- You can easily check to see if your Edge has may have the harness in place. Follow this link on how to remove your front bumper and the second video shows how to remove the vertical lights. Just pull back the wheel lining after removing the 3 screws in order to see what may be wired there. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12810-how-to-remove-front-bumper;-2011-2013-models/?do=findComment&comment=99338

Cellbine, thanks for the video! I don't have a need to remove mine yet, but I have saved this video for when the day comes. I will eventually replace the chrome grill on my 2013 and this will help I am sure. Question, other than removing the wire harness to the vertical lamps, is there any need to remove the lamps themselves in order to remove the bumper? I wouldn't think so. Again, a big thanks for the making and posting of this video!

In the past few days I have been reading reviews on various detail forums and automotive forums regarding the 3M Paint Defender. Seems to be a mixed bag, people either love it or hate it, no in between. Biggest complaint is that it drips from the nozzle or the nozzle gets clogged up, thereby causing a delay while trying to get the three coats of spray put on evenly. The other major complaint is that it is too thin, even when the directions were followed and 3 coats were applied. Some have said it is at most 2 mil thick compared to many clear bras of 8 mil. One good point made by most is that is does even out and is pretty forgiving if you get it a bit too thick during the application. Sounds like a good idea, but I will be holding off for a while until more improvements, or competitive items, come along. This is something which is supposed to only last up to 1 year and a few of the reviews said it was difficult to remove, even after they had applied the supplied wax to prep the car with before spraying.

NO! Not unless you have the center of the wheels machined larger. The 2011 and up models used a smaller hub opening than the 2010 and older models. If you were putting the older wheels onto the newer vehicle, you would be able to use hub centric rings. No way around putting a smaller opening onto a larger hub other than to have it machined.

Two dealers finally came up to 26000, but I told them I would keep it since they were still several thousand away from where I wanted and thought I should be at. I do enjoy driving it and like the MPG I am getting.

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator

Well, I was going to suggest that you do a search on this forum using the Search function. There have been several posts made about having the dealership (USA only) turning the DRL function on by using their "scan" tool or whatever Ford calls it. There are also ways of adding different lights where the vertical lights are on the 2011-2013 models, and using them as the DRL. Go to the search function at the top right hand corner of this page and enter your search term into the box. Make sure you click where it says "This topic" and change that to read " Forums", then click the magnifing glass to do the search. Here is one discussion about having the dealer turn them on. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12612-just-got-my-drl-activated-at-the-dealership/?hl=%2Bdaytime+%2Brunning+%2Blights&do=findComment&comment=97497

I like what is included in the rest of the story when you open up the link. It will be interesting to see what improvements will be in the future update. Ford improves MyFord Touch quality by more than 50 percent since launch, plans another upgrade in summer 2013

I have done similar mods to a few of my previous cars that didn't have a compass. The mirrors I put in just needed a ground and a power source. I put a Homelink mirror into a F150 and had to run the power from the fuse box up the A pillar and over to the mirror. I've never had any problems, the mirrors always worked and the Homelink was great. Looking at the picture you posted of the mirror, it looks like it also has an outside temperature display. In order to have that work, you have to install a temperature sensor near the front of the car and run the wires to the mirror. Nice feature to install if you don't already have it. If you don't hook up the sensor, the mirror looks kind of funny with the blank window and nothing displaying there except the compass. You can find mirrors with just the compass and Homelink on eBay. The other important thing to note is make sure you get the correct type of mirror mount already on the mirror. There are various types and it is difficult to switch them if you purchase the wrong type. There are also different colors that display in the mirror, so make sure you are OK with whatever the color is(blue, green, orange, red, etc). Last, make sure the mirror has the electrical connector and at least a few inches of wires to make it easier for you to do your wiring. You don't have to install a Ford mirror if you can find others that will work with your mount. I have a Nissan mirror in one of my other cars right now that works and looks great. You don't even know that it was not from the same manufacturer as the car.

You should not have too much of a problem selling your wheels for the price you mentioned. Try posting in the classified section on this forum when you have them ready, and also in your local Craigslist.

Nothing in the menu which will allow you to change the sensitivity of the sensor to allow the lights to come on sooner with dusk. However, there was a member who removed the plastic cover in the center of the dash board which covers the sensor. He applied a light coat of paint on the cover which "tricked" the sensor into thinking it was darker than it really is. This allowed the lights to come on sooner. I want to do the same to my sensor, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Here is the link to his post with some pictures of how to remove the sensor. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12263-autolamp-sensor-on-dash/?hl=remove+light+sensor&do=findComment&comment=94455

The original post looking for the wheel was made in February of 2008! I would hope by now they found what they were looking for!

. Seeing that was posted on the Focus forum and I don't recall any complaints on the Edge forum about a clock issue, I wonder if the update might be just for that car line and it's specific issue.

Fearful of doing the same (curb rash) and not liking the wheels at all when I first got my Limited with the 20's, I picked up a set of Ford Flex 20" wheels and took my chrome clad wheels off. I sold mine on the local Craigslist. The fellow that bought mine and his wife each drive a Limited with the 20" chrome clad wheels. They each had one badly curbed wheel. He bought all four of mine knowing that he would more than likely have to use the extras at some point in time.

The 2007-2010 Edge used a larger wheel hub opening of about 2.77 inches or 70.5 mm. The 2011-2013 use a smaller wheel hub opening of about 2.5 inches or 63.4 mm. You can have the centers machined out but you would be better off finding the correct wheel opening size. It is a bit easier to put the older larger wheels onto a newer Edge with the smaller openings. You would need hub centric rings of the proper size.

New lower price! $40.00 plus shipping for one pair (left and right).

SOLD!

Here is a link to 11 pages of posts regarding the bump from the transmission. I think the first post is from 2007. http://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-edge-73/edge-transmission-problems-7525/ Here is one of the TSB links for modification of the valve body balls and openings. I recall reading a TSB which required drilling of something inside the transmission, but can't find it right now. http://motofinity.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/tsb11-05-06.pdf

I consider myself one of the least tech knowledgeable Edge owner's with Sync and MFT! Having said that, I am able to get the MFT to do what I want/need it to do MOST of the time. There have been times I have been tempted to throw a brick through the screen, but it's usually because of something I have done incorrectly, not because of the system itself. Now there have been several occasions when the system didn't do what it was supposed to do or do it how it was supposed to do it. I have managed to get past those SNAFU's and have survived. One such example is the album art which sometimes does, but most of the time does not, show when I am playing music from a USB. I just ignore it now and enjoy the music I have recorded for my listening pleasure. I bet you and your wife will do just fine with the system. Congrats on the new Edge and welcome.

It would be nice if Witt Lincoln could/would enlighten some of the dealerships around me that my 2013 DRL's could be turned on. Wonder if you could ask them for the pertinent information (what settings to use, how to use them, ect) and they could be posted here. I could copy the information as could other owners to take to our local dealerships. It would be nice to get the DRL's turned on. I know I could add the modified DRL's one of the members is selling and that might be the only other alternative at this time.

Yes, there are many Edges around the Dallas area. I also think many of the ones hitting the auction are prior rental vehicles. That floods the market and lowers the trade in price. The rebates on new ones also drive down used prices, since the selling price is that much lower to begin with on a new one. One of the dealers did raise his offer to 26000, but that is still too low in my opinion. Thankfully getting a truck isn't something I have to do or need to do, it was something I wanted to do.

Looks like the truck is out of the picture for the time being. Went to 3 different dealers and got trade in values. My Edge doesn't have ONE SINGLE scratch, dent, ding, etc. It's extremely clean inside and out with what I thought were some not too common options (factory tow and Bliss). Two dealers offered 23300, and one was at 25000. The car is 10 months old with 13000 miles! Those prices were based on Manheim auto auction results and not on any Edmunds, Kelley Blue Book, or even NADA BLACKBOOK values. Heck, the Blackbook trade in value for clean is at 28 something and retail over 30. Oh well, like I said the Edge drives and rides fantastic. I'll be hanging around for a while yet unless Ford jumps their rebates on the Lariat truck to equal the XLT rebates. Right now there is almost a $5000.00 difference in rebate amounts between the two trucks, with the XLT having almost $10000.00 in incentives and rebates (counting my $750.00 private offer).