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Mark94, the other buyer I linked to felt completely opposite of you. He found it was just a matter of signing some new papers with his bank and paying less than $100.00 in paperwork fees. The bank did all the legwork to pay off Ford and get the title reassigned with BOA as the new lien holder. His interest rate dropped (he had a credit score of over 800) from the 6.45% given by the dealer to 1.59% given by BOA as a used car! Not a bad way to save an additional $900.00 ($1000.00 Ford credit incentive received minus the $100.00 charge to refinance), plus the additional savings from his lower rate! Remember, Ford Credit gives the dealer the OK to finance the buyer and sets the rate they are willing to go. The dealership then can increase the interest rate charged the buyer in order to make more money for the dealer. They can go as high as they feel the customer will accept. Ford Credit themselves WILL NOT give an interest rate directly to a buyer who contacts them. I had my outside financing all set when I purchased my Edge in July. I was going to refinance and do a little extra work to save $900.00 when the dealer came back with a 5% interest rate versus my 1.9% bank rate. I told the dealer my outside rate and they met it! If they did not, I was going to sign with them, and refinance within 10 days.

Zag is an auto buying program which is now known as TrueCar according to this link, and another link which explains them and some of the car buying services. They have been around for years under different names and do provide good prices to buyers. USAA is a fantastic company and they provide great services to their customers. http://www.autonews.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20111205/RETAIL07/312059956/1422# http://www.kiplinger.com/article/cars/T009-C004-S001-how-to-use-a-car-buying-service-to-find-deals-on-n.html The only other suggestion is to take the Ford Credit incentive of $1000.00 by financing through them. Make sure to check with any other banks or credit unions you deal with to see what their interest rates are compared to what the dealership is giving you. As I said, you can refinance in a matter of days, literally, and not lose the incentive from Ford. Just make sure your other sources know this is a refinance. Some banks or credit unions will refinance it at a used car rate, some will still finance it at a new car rate. You will have to see what the finance rates are and figure out if it is best to stay with Ford or to refinance.

Welcome, even if you are not a member yet! Using your info, I came up with a sticker price of $36875 for a front wheel drive Edge, and an invoice price of $34155 BEFORE any incentives. This was through http://www.edmunds.com/new-cars/ Your price given may not include the destination charge, or maybe the one you looked at is an older built unit and there was a price increase since, I don't know without more information. If you open the front drivers door and look on the post right in front of the rear door near the bottom, you will see the month and year it was built. One quick way to make sure your not looking at something that's been sitting on the dealer's lot for 6 or 7 months. If you work, or you husband (if married) works for one of the companies I link to, you may be eligible for the Ford Partner Program or X plan. This is a set price by Ford (I believe .04 over the invoice price) and lists what fees the dealer and Ford are limited to charging on a new vehicle purchase through the program. I could not find my link to the Ford site but this is on a Ford forum. The list is 2 years old, but maybe you will luck out. I can find a newer list if you need it. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f153/x-plan-partners-275777/ Here is an excellent post from a new buyer just a few weeks ago. He was told he had to finance through Ford and make at least 4 payments in order to receive the $1000.00 incentive. That is NOT TRUE. He ended up refinancing with BOA at a rate more than 4% less than what the dealer charged him within 10 days or so. I can send you a copy of some emails I sent him with all the information about not having to wait to refinance, or losing the incentive. Read the four pages of his post, and I am sure you will find some good information there. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11904-im-buying-a-2013-awd-sel/ Don't be in a hurry to do anything until you get some answers to all of your questions. It is your money and we want to help you save as much as you can on your new purchase.

I tried searching the forum for an answer, and I also looked in the owner's manual, but I can't find an answer. I know how to reset the oil life monitor back to 100% or a percentage of that. Where do I see what percentage I am sitting at right now? This would be handy to know in advance when to start thinking about an oil change. I also ran a Vehicle Health Report thinking it might be there (it is on a GM truck we owned), but no such luck. Is it possible to view what percentage I am at right now?

Miata has changed their website since the last time I've used it, and I like the new improvements! In addition to what was posted in reply #2, the stock tire would read 60 mph ( 100 km) and the replacement tire would read 59 mph (98.4 km). You are all set to go with them!

Pretty much agree with you on most of your observations. However, this one statement says it all for a cars dependability and reliability. Do I use the CR reports? Yes, but primarily to look at the long-terms trends in "worse than average" quality within vehicle subsystems (e.g. engine, electrical, transmission, air conditioning, etc.). Although domestic products have gotten better, I believe they still have the most "worse than average" circles than the imports. I also have been driving for 45 years and in that time have always driven Fords or GMs. I have been married 40 years this June, and my wife has also only driven Fords or GMs. We can attest to those "worse than average" ratings, having owned many of those models. This last April we walked away from GM and she bought an Acura MDX. First time EVER there has been an import sitting in our garage! Those dependability and reliability scores were a factor in her purchase decision. On the other hand I purchased a 2013 Edge in July, so I haven't given up on domestics yet.

2. On the Navigation screen there is a flashing white circle around the car. Can this be removed or changed? Not that I know. That was one of the first questions I asked the forum back in July when I purchased my 2013. Even after installing the latest update and the new A4 navigation card, that flashing circle is still there.

Also, I did not remove the lens, as in the procedure for replacing festoon bulbs... I cut the lamp in half, keeping the lens attached to the mounting tabs. Perhaps it's just a matter of description. In your picture showing where you put the silicone sealant to affix the bulb, that is the lens, correct? The lens has been cut away from the body except for the clip, correct? Looking at your pictures, you put the lens back in but got rid of the black upper half of the "socket" and housing that held the original bulb, right? I'm not trying to argue, I just want to understand because am interested in doing this mod also. I purchased the 6 SMD 50/50 leds also, and just planned on cutting the lens off in order to swap out the bulbs. Glad to hear you got it to do what you wanted it to do, and that it is bright enough also.

I love when people are able to do something that everyone else says or thinks it's not possible! Of course you still have to get the nav to work, correct? Hopefully it is something with the GPS or disc.

You must have used some completely different bulbs than others who have done this mod. For them from what I've read it was basically a plug and play once they removed the lens like you did in the first post. Never heard anyone having to cut the bulbs down, or any complaints about them not being bright enough. Why did you go with what you did? Brighter? Better quality? Cheaper? Just wondering.

I'm 6-2 and agree about needing a door handle closer to the center of the door, or a notch on the arm rest so you can close the door easier. I park in a tight garage at home and have hit the wall once or twice already when the door opened to far before I could grab it. I have a Limited which came with an overhead console and it has a sunglass holder which swings down. Very handy. I think I've seen on older Edges that there is a little flat spot or maybe even a lid in the center of the dash above the radio? It sure would be nice to keep my EZ Pass and other items in there, wish the 2013 had one.

I knew there was a previous post from several months back talking about the rocker panel differences. I had printed out some of that discussion because some partial part numbers and prices were listed by one of the posters. I found my print out and was able to find the post with information about the rocker panels. The parts, fasteners, and shipping would come to list $664.54, discount from the source quoted by the poster $466.92. I still would like to do this, but will have to wait for an eBay listing like what was found by V4278. Here is the original post I was trying to find with replies 10 and 11 having the partial part numbers and prices. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11428-new-2013-edge-limited-awd-owner/?hl=%20rocker%20%20panel%20%20part%20%20number

My auto control is acting differently after the 3.5.1 upgrade also. I have just been leaving the climate control on and the auto button off for the last month or so with the pleasant weather we have. Now when I restart the car since the upgrade, the auto almost always comes on by itself and I have to shut it off by adjusting the fan speed. I used to be able to touch the auto button and it would shut off. Now it doesn't respond to the touch to shut off.

It is a bit unusual to have a 2013 sitting on a lot for over 70 days with 7000 miles on it. It might have been a demo, service rental, factory buy-back, in an accident and after being repaired it was traded in, or just someone who after driving it decided it wasn't the right car for them. Sounds like the price of a Car-Fax or Auto Check might be worth it if you pursue this. With the dealer asking $35000.00, that's not too far away from what someone could buy a brand new one for with all the incentives available. I doubt that another dealer could do a trade in order to get it just for you to look at it, especially if it's being sold as used instead of new. If you feel it is what you want, and you are satisfied with the price, take the time and go check it out. It's a lot easier to deal in person than over the phone or by email on a used car.

I haven't seen any Ford commercials which are advertising a 2 year trial subscription. Heck, I was happy with the 6 month trial including travel link and traffic that came with my 2013 Edge! When I bought there was a promo to call Sirius and they would upgrade it to the Premier Package for the 6 months (Howard, Playboy, etc) for free. I did so the same day I bought the Edge and did receive the upgrade package. After always owning GM's which only came with a 90 day trial, I was very happy with the 6 months Ford includes. I hope you can find the 2 year deal, but if it's out there, they sure are keeping it quiet.

Here's a link to find some of the most common FAQ's regarding the Ford ESP plan. I copied one of the answers which you specifically asked about. If you buy it now instead of after it is 1 year old up to 3 years old, or 36000 miles, it is about $100.00 or so cheaper right now. http://www.troy-ford-extended-warranty.com/Ford-Extended-Warranty-Questions-s/2581.htm Q: Can I cancel my Ford ESP? A: Yes. All Ford ESP contracts can be canceled for a full refund within 30 days (if you have not used any aspect of the plan). Beyond 60 days, you will receive a pro-rated refund from Ford Motor Company. To cancel a Ford ESP simply call us toll free at 1-877-339-1978. As for when to buy? A GM factory extended warranty starts on the day and miles you buy the contract (thus making it worth it to delay the purchase for extra time and miles). The Ford warranty starts at 0 miles and the delivery date of the car. So if you buy a 60 month/100000 mile month warranty when the car is just about 36 months old with 30000 miles, you are really only getting coverage up to 100000 miles and only the additional 24 months to total 60 months. With a GM you would be getting a total of 130000 miles and up to the 96th month for coverage. If you are interested in the first day rental or extended rental coverage, that coverage is in effect when you buy the warranty and elect those options. Even though any repairs are probable covered by the bumper to bumper warranty, the rental coverage from the ESP is effective now and good on B2B warranty claims. One last thing I found when talking to several dealers before purchasing my contract. I was interested in the 0% financing which the Ford site advertised for the ESP. What they don't tell you is there is a surcharge added to the warranty price of between $200.00-$400.00! So those 6-18 month payments at 0% really end up costing you a lot of extra money. I ended up just making a single payment, that 0% finance just cost too much additional!

It is also noted in the manual, pg. 379, that you should perform services noted on your scheduled maintenance table within 3,000 miles (4,800 km) of the OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message appearing on your message center Wow, that statement in the owner's manual can be confusing. When I first read it, it sounded like you could wait up to 3000 miles before really having to do an oil change. After reading it several more times, I see what they are saying. You should perform the other services (check brakes, check exhaust, inspect brake fluid, etc) within the 3000 miles of the light coming on. You defiantly don't want to wait any longer to do the oil change when the light comes on and reaches 0.

If you have under 48000 miles, I would take it to the dealer and let them replace it under the bumper to bumper warranty. Yes, burned out bulbs are covered. Sure will make it a lot easier for you. Now if you are replacing them with up graded bulbs, I really don't have any words of advice for you. Never done it.

Fantastic! Glad to see everything came together finally for you! Now enjoy the new ride.

sorry to hear about the car dying. Perhaps the bugs were a result of whatever went wrong with the car? Weak battery, bad alternator, who knows?

Care to tell us what problems popped up after your recent update? Did you self install or was it done at the dealer? Just wondering about the bugs because other's have reported some.

I don't think I am going crazy, but I may be wrong! My 2013 Limited with Auto climate would always allow me to touch the Auto button when it was lit and it would shut off the auto function, but leave the climate button right below it lit. Air would still flow in from the vents and I could control the amount by manually setting the fan speed. So in essence, the Auto button responded to manually touching it to turn on or off. Several days ago I installed 5.2.1 and noticed yesterday that the Auto, Climate, and A/C button were lit. I shut off the A/C and then tried shutting off the Auto, since I wanted fresh exterior air but didn't care if it was controlled to a certain temperature. No response from the Auto button even after numerous times of punching it. I heard it beep, but nothing to shut it off. I found the only way I could get the Auto button to shut off was to manually raise or lower my fan speed, then the button would shut off. Even going into the Climate quadrant and trying to shut off Auto on that screen had no impact. 5.2.1 bug or a defective climate module? Or has it always operated that way and for the last 6 months I never noticed? Don't really think so, because I recall many time shutting off the auto button by just pushing it.

Seeing as the seller is in China, and their Toolhaus rating ( http://toolhaus.org) has negs for shipping and quality, I would pass on it for the price alone. Go to that link and fill in the seller's ID, check feedback received, and you will see the complaints.

Tough call. I would be more inclined to pull the tires off and sell them on Craigslist or such for around $200.00 for the set. They are probable the Michelin (245/60/18) tires which list on Tire Rack for $192.00 each before shipping. Someone might be looking for some tires to get through the next year or the next state vehicle inspection. The TPMS sensors will work in the 2011 and up Edges and many other Ford models. You should be able to get $50.00-75.00 for the set of four used sensors, again maybe on CL or even eBay. Check out the going prices for them on eBay. Now the wheels you should be able to blow them out for around $200.00-$300.00 for the set. Even at $200.00, if you also sell the tires for $200.00 and the sensors for $50.00, you just made $450.00 and cleared out your garage. These are just my thoughts but hopefully give you an idea of how to go about it. Steve

Funny, I just did a master reset yesterday before and after self installing the 5.2.1 version. I also retained the radio presets, but had to repair my phone and phone book. I also lost all my favorite destinations stored in the nav. Not a big deal, but I was really surprised to see the radio presets still there. I did the master reset off the SYNC in the car by going to Apps I believe.