ls973800

I was considering calling my salesman that sold me the car and going in to the dealership today and saying while driving something kicked up from a truck on the highway and took chunks out of my wheel, since that may then be covered. Does anyone have any opinions? Yes, I have an opinion but you won't like it. You feel it is OK to lie about the damage and try to stick the company which provides the warranty or the dealer with the falsified repair charge. Just because this is a forum where you are somewhat anonymous, do you really feel good coming here and letting us know how you will lie just to avoid being responsible for your actions? Karma baby, karma!

While in the Northeast part of Ohio this last week, I saw the post about the oil price. Knowing I would be back in the Dallas area Tuesday, I tried several zip codes but they are said the product wasn't available. I then tried the zip code in the area where I was staying and was able to order 8 of the jugs at the posted price shown on line for in store pick up. I had to leave early Monday morning, but my son picked them up today. They only had 7 of them and refunded the price of one. I had pre-paid using Pay Pal. Thanks for posting the information which is the only way I would have known about this special!

Even if you could tow 3500 lbs like the salesman said by adding some of the equipment, your warranty would be void for any damages caused by towing more than the 2000 lbs. Having owned a Traverse for a couple of years, that forum was always filled with the same question as yours. Sales people telling potential buyers that all they had to do was add the hitch and they would be good for the maximum capacity of towing. It doesn't work like that when the warranty comes into question. To duplicate the same equipment after the fact was double the cost of the factory installed package! The Edge uses different cooling fans with the tow package, along with a setting for anti-sway control on the instrument panel and a larger radiator. It is also classified as Class II with 3500 max towing. If you are going to tow over 2000 pounds, get the factory package.

It may be a silly question, but are you sure you can have both phones linked on the SYNC account in order to use the free 20 per year directions? I think only one phone can be the primary phone on the SYNC site, allowing for that phone only to be the one that receives the free services. If you try to add a phone on the SYNC site other than the one listed, it will say that any other phone on the account will be removed. That does not prevent the phone from pairing in the car to make or receive calls, just prevents it from being the one on the SYNC account for services.

Welcome to the forum! If you take the wheel off, you can push the center cap out with no problem. They are just held in place with tabs. I take a screwdriver with a wooden handle and hit it from the back side with the handle and it pops right out. While you have the wheel off, you will also see that the chrome cladding is just an outer cover placed over a steel wheel. The chrome cladding is just attached with an adhesive from what I understand. No rivets or welds. I have read that you can not take off the cladding and replace it. That is something which can only be done at the time of manufacturing. I removed the 20" chrome clad wheels from my 2013 Limited and replaced them with 20" wheels from a Ford Flex which are not chrome.The fellow that purchased my 4 wheels had two on his Edge which he had hit curbs, and one on his wife's that had hit a curb. Now he has one spare for the next time he or she hits another curb! Other than finding good deals on eBay or other sites with reasonable shipping, or replacing your wheels with other non-chrome clad wheels, you just have to bite the bullet and either live with the damage or pay top dollar to replace them each time.

There should be no problem with the lug nuts you have with the 18's working with the 20's. The difference comes into play sometimes when an aftermarket wheel is installed or replaced. Some times the lug nuts are not the same, with different types such as conical, radius, cone seat, etc. I just like to keep the same lug nuts with the wheels they came with.

Price is hard to say because there are factors such as tire wear, TPMS and center caps included or not, lug nuts included, what are shipping charges, etc. I saw the wheels and tires you are interested in for $1200.00 with free shipping. That would be a good price if the wheels are in excellent condition. You are basically buying two good wheels, two damaged wheels, used tires, and getting free shipping because of the damage to the wheels. I just sold 4 20" wheels without a scratch on them with TPMS and center caps for $1000.00. I've also seen others sell the same wheels for that price. Tire Rack has the factory tires for $676.00 plus shipping. It is a decision you will have to make as to what you are paying for the package vs putting one together. Personally, if I were spending that much money just to jump up to 20" wheels and tires, I would want the wheels to be perfect or very good. Your tires with 40 percent will cost alot to ship unless you can sell them locally.

As long as the wheels are from a 2011 or newer Edge, they will fit with no problems. There will be almost a zero effect on your speedometer reading with the larger tires. Check this link to see the difference between the 18 and 20 inch tires. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Even the TPMS sensors will automatically connect after driving several miles at highway speed. If the wheels are from a 2010 or older Edge, the center bore is bigger than that used on 2011's and newer. You will have to add hub centric rings to get them to fit properly. They will also have a different type TPMS sensor which will not work with your vehicle. The sensors will have to be replaced with the correct ones. If you are not getting the sensors with the wheels, you can take yours from the 18 inch wheels and swap them into the 20's.

Leases can be written so many different ways with so many different factors, that it would be hard to get an accurate figure from anyone other than the selling dealer. You can easily see what the value of a 2010 may be by checking the different websites such as KBB, Edmunds, NADA, etc. This will give a general idea of what the car may be worth. What the buyout figure is going to be may be completely different.

MFT stands for My Ford Touch. It's the operating system used in some of their vehicles for controlling the different functions (entertainment, navigation, climate, phone) by voice command or touch control on the screen. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MyFord_Touch

After reading the same comment on several other posts from you, I just was wondering if this was going to be your only contribution to this forum. Why not just send a private message to anyone who asks about wheels for snow tires. Keeps the board questions and discussions on topic. I also have some items for sale, but I have them listed over on the Classified topic. I don't add a post when ever I read a topic where someone talks about similar items.

There is an almost zero effect on the speedometer when you switch from the 20's to the 18's if you mount 245/60/18 tires on the 18" wheels in place of the 245/50/20 tires you run now. This is the factory size and will require absolutely no computer changes or anything else. Search on this wheel and tire topic and you will find several posts from me showing what little difference there is. Use this link to see the difference between the two sizes or whatever size you may put on. You need Java to see the full features of the linked site. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Just make sure you get wheels from a 2011 or newer Edge if you don't want to have to use any hub centric spacers. The hub opening size from 2011 and up is smaller than the 2010 and older models. There was also a change in the TPMS sensors that will not interchange.

So are you going to be spamming this information on every post that mentions snow tires or other wheels?

The nine "winners" were all GM products! Several Oldsmobile 88's, an Alero, several Pontiac Grand Ams, Chevrolet Corsica, and a Buick Rendezvous. The most common item replaced on most of them were numerous wheel bearings front and rear (complete hub assemblies), A/C compressors, the infamous GM lower and upper intake manifold gaskets on the majority of them, and various other sensors, etc. All of these vehicles were well maintained with oil changes every 5000 miles using factory filters and parts. All were sold or traded in in very good condition with no abuse or lack of service during my ownership. Several of them which I sold privately returned a higher sale value because of their condition and because I still had warranty left which was able to be transferred to the new owner with a modest fee to GM. That's why I get the longest term and most miles with 0 deductible. Helps the resale value if there is any warranty left, even if the car has mileage in the 90000 range. The 2003 F150 with almost 180000 miles was the one that I didn't get my money back on. The 2013 Edge replaced this truck. The repairs were sometimes a inconvenience, but with the warranties I always had free towing and a free loaner car. Only once did a breakdown actually leave my wife stranded in the middle of a snow storm for two hours before getting help. I stuck with GM because I really liked their cars versus any Ford cars. The funny thing is, I always bought Ford trucks and liked them over the GM offerings. Never had anything but Fords or GM's for the last 44 years until now with my wife's MDX.

I don't see how removing rock guards would void your warranty at all. Now if during installation you chip the paint or drill through a fuel line or brake line, that would definitely not be covered under warranty. Not seeing the directions, I don't really think it should be too difficult of a job. I installed factory running boards on my F150 with no problems. Didn't even have to drill as the factory kit used existing holes in the frame and sub-frame to mount the brackets. The Accra web site says some drilling is needed but it shouldn't be too difficult.

Very well said and I agree with everything you pointed out. I just did my first oil change and tire rotation (I do all my own maintenance work) and this was a pleasure to work on. No need in these first 5000 miles on my end either to return to the dealer for ANY adjustments or fixes!

My wife and I did drive the 2013 RDX and the steering felt very loose and not connected with the road at all. Sitting in the back felt like being in a cheap car from the 70's considering this was an Acura fully loaded. The MFT is still a concern for me. My wife is techno-phobic (she doesn't even want an iphone), and I am concerned that the MFT may really irritate her. I guess that if the Edge is her choice, then she can't complain... still a concern though... I am 60 years old and used to use the signature "Still spinning at 33 1/3 RPM's in an MP3 World" if that gives you any indication of how techno inclined I am. Got my first "smart" phone last year and know how to make a call from it, that's about all! The MFT has really done what I need it to do with just a slight learning curve. I have for the first time recorded music onto a USB flash and got it to work in the Edge! I know I am never going to use the system to more than 30 percent of what it is capable of (streaming music, setting up mobile hot spots, etc) but that's OK. I can work the basic climate controls, the navigation, the radio, and the phone connection. Little by little I am learning more and I have no regrets in my purchase. I even did the first download off the web for a MFT update last month without a problem. The Ford SYNC and MFT website leaves a lot to be desired in my opinion. I have found better answers and more information on various forums than over there. Good luck in whatever decision you make.

I have always purchased the extended warranty regardless of the brand of car or truck. I buy the longest (Factory backed only, no aftermarket) ones with the most miles I can get, with the zero deductible. I have never lost money by doing so for the last 10 warranties or so I've purchased except for one. That was on my 2003 F150 which I owned for 10 years and 180000 miles. I will be buying one this year for the 2013 Edge I purchased in July, and one for my wife's 2012 Acura MDX she purchased in April. We test drove all of those you mentioned plus many you didn't mention. Since we were replacing both vehicles this year, I did a lot of test driving and research. I felt the best handling, power, creature comforts, and value for me was the Edge Limited. My wife hated the size, handling, and lack of many features in the new RDX. We walked out of two different Toyota dealers because of the "games" they played when pricing out a Highlander, plus we both felt it was overpriced for the features we wanted. The MDX she ended up buying is the first non GM or Ford product in my garage or driveway in 44 years. It was a toss up between the Explorer and MDX for her, with the MDX having higher quality materials, sportier handling, and more power for not much more cost. The SYNC and MFT have been almost trouble free for me with just one or two minor quirks which were really operator (me) error. I almost pounded my fist through the dashboard last week when I was using voice command telling it I wanted XM channel 56. It kept asking for a valid command or doing everything but what I wanted. After several minutes, I finally remembered I was in a Ford with a Sirius account and not in a vehicle with an XM account! Soon as I said Sirius 56 the problem was solved!

I am more familiar with some GM products which when they have a heating problem, it is often caused by actuators. These are a part of the HVAC system and blend the heated air coming from the heater core with the cooler air inside the car. The actuators open and close "blend" doors which allow the different amounts of mixing. On older cars these were vacuum operated, now they are electronic. When they fail or the blend door sticks, you don't get the proper amount of heated and cooler air mixed for the right amount of heat into the car. It could be too cold or too hot. Your mechanics term "mixer motor" sounds to me like something very similar to the GM actuators.

Google "Homelink" and you will find all kinds of instructions that will work for the Edge garage door programing. Here's just one example http://www.geniedoor.com/homelink-garage-door-opener-programming

This is the most "active" Edge forum I've found. I can't believe how few people actually post on here compared to all the Edge's I see everywhere. I have been able to learn several things here, and have received some answers to questions, so I guess that is the main thing.

Just remember that the wheel hub opening size was changed between the 2010 and 2011 models. 2010 and earlier models used a larger opening. Those wheels will fit the 2011 and newer with the use of hub centric rings. 2011 and newer use a smaller opening. They will only fit 2011 and newer. I've read of one person who had the openings machined larger to fit the older models. That is something I would never do.

That's exactly what I was asking for, thanks!

I just happened to find this post while I was searching for something else. In his post he describes how to remove the bulb from a 2010 Edge with "puddle lamps". It is in the very first post down a few paragraphs. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/5050-led-conversion-to-all-interior-lights-and-liscence-plate-bulbs/

mgmosh, could you list the parts needed and part numbers of all the pieces needed to add the EcoBoost moldings to my Limited? I am interested in doing this. From what I've found on line, it looks like I need the moldings for each side, and 2 end caps for each side (total of 4). Not sure if the end caps really need to be replaced or if they are different than what I have now. Probable need some replacement clips, screws, etc also, correct? Might be a nice project to work on this fall. Thanks.