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Yes, the symptom always returns after about 6 - 9 months. If I put new rotors on right now, it would go away. Then come back in about 6 - 9 months. Ever since I bought her in 2010.

It could be the booster, could be ABS, trying to do some actual diagnostics.

No ABS light is on. Brakes feel like they pulse when I stop. 6 new rotos, 6 new pads, new Ford Calipers, rotors, pads, brake lines and flushed - same issue. Feels like something is making them grab as I slow down.

Does anyone know if there is a fuse I can pull to turn off the antilock brakes? I am having a braking issue and I want to rule out the antilock brake system. My thinking is if I pull the fuse and turn it off. I can drive for a bit and see if I still have the issue. If the issue is still there, I think I can rule out that system. Make sense?

Hey Curt, I can't answer your question, but can you share what maintenance you had done with your antifreeze prior to the failure? Did you have it changed frequently?

A couple comments. I use my Edge in mixed driving. I had just come back last week from a 250 mile highway trip. I bought this Edge used (1 year old with 62,000 miles on it - a highway star). Checking the records the original owner had the battery replaced due to corrosion on the terminals. Well, the new replacement battery was corroding as well. I coated it with terminal grease and but those felt tabs under the posts. It still corroded. I replaced it after about 4 years and it did the same with the replacement battery. It corroded as well. I am of the opinion that the battery location in the Edge on my 09 is particularly hard on batteries. My mother-in-laws 08 MKX has the same issue. She bought it used and someone had already replaced a smaller cable to the battery. I received a call from her a few months back and her's would not start. Looked at it, the replacement cable had corroded away. Looking at the other connections, they all needed to be replaced. I have a friend that had a 2008 Chrysler 300C. Ran a quick errand with him and tried to start it - dead. Acted just like my Edge. Looked at his battery and it was the original one and was 7.5 years old. The battery was in the trunk. Away from heat and looked brand new. My wife's 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee's battery has the battery under the passenger seat (move the power seat all the way forward and up and you can access it via a removable panel). I know, I know, it should be replaced now..... Many of you have seen maps like this, but here is a map that shows generally how long our batteries should last. Confirming that heat is the biggest killer: https://www.toyota.com/owners/parts-service/parts-details/SVPT1013

So the battery on my 2009 Limited died. It was only 3 years old, but not a terribly expensive one. I live in the mitten state and I usually expect to get 4+ years out of one. Anyhow, my vehicle also has the power liftgate feature. (On a side note, it is funny how these batteries fail. I made a short trip to a grocery store and was only inside for 4 minutes. Tried to start it and nothing. No crank, nothing. I could hear clicking on the inside like internal dash blend doors were opening and closing or relays were clinking - even without the key in.) No problem, I have jumper cables in the back under the floor. I go to the back of the vehicle and push the button on the power liftgate - nothing. Hmmm. So I open the doors to the back seat and fold the rear seat backs down. But if I climb back there I can't get to the jumper cables because I would be sitting on the floor. Hmmm. So I ended up lifting the entire back floor assembly up by the part that leans up against the back of the back seats when the seats are up (that part is also connected to the floor). This lifted the floor up so I could get to the cables. I thought there must be a different way. I checked the owners manual and it says there is an access panel that can be removed to open the liftgate from the inside. I raised mine and looked. Sure enough, right in the middle of it on the inside is a small panel that can pretty easly be removed. To end the story, a new battery resolved all issues. After I got it jumped I drove it home so I could work in my garage and do a good job. When I parked it I tested the voltage on the battery and got about 12.6 volts. Hmmm, that sounds about right. I tried to start it, dead. I then measured the voltage, it was about 8.x volts. I hope you all get a charge out of reading this! At least spark some ideas! (ok, last one....) At least give you the power to work on yours (last one, honest...) As you can tell, I am a DieHard Edge fan (gimme the hook - Please!!!)

Thanks Enigma, Not what I wanted to hear. I guess I'll be a test case for these and see how they work/last on the Edge.

Ha, my Dad had the same thing done. Hopefully your Dad didn't have one break like my sway bar. Ok, I found a good deal on the Mevotechs. I found a new set of two delivered for $28. Please don't tell me they are junk.

As promised, I am giving another update on my "Hillbilly Sway Bar" repair. The noise came back with a vengeance! However, it is a bit different.... It was louder and sounded more like a bad rear shock. Anyhow, got under there again with my can of lithium grease (yes, it needs replacing but I wanted to buy myself a little more time until it gets warmer up here). I looked at the rear driver's side sway bar and it was broken. The bar broke right where it connects to the upper mount. The tip of the bar was rubbing against the upper mount - thus my noise. Come on Ford, shouldn't these last longer!?!?... Anyhow, I have decided to replace the rear shocks and rear sway bars. I did my research and I am likely going to use the KYB's for the shocks. I am looking for an affordable sway bar link recommendation for the rear. MACT? 2 more things: - The KYB rear shocks don't come with the large bolt on the bottom. The Motorcraft's do. I assume it is ok to reuse mine if in good shape? - Checking out Rock Auto I am leaning toward the greaseable Mevotech's for the sway bars.

When it is stopped and you push up and down on it does it make a sound? My noise was sway bar links. It would make the noise when bounced.

My 2009 AWD specs Mercon V (5). I drain and fill every year and it take 5.5 quarts. I purchase 6 quarts. I drain (via turkey baster) the fluid in the power steering pump (it takes Mercon V as well) and use the remaining 1/2 quart to fill that. I find around this time Jan/Feb I can get 6 quarts for Castrol Mercon V for $32 at the local auto parts store. Pretty cheap annual insurance to keep the transmission and power steering system working good.

Id like to send that off to Blackstone Labs...

I don't think you ever have to change it according to this guy..... So I am listening to a national car repair radio talk show. One I think quite highly of. A guy calls in about his 2004? Chevy? or GMC? pickup that he has owned since new regarding a noise in the engine (cam, lifters, rollers, something, doesn't matter). He goes on to add that it has 540,000 miles and also adds that it has the factory original transmission fluid - never changed. 540,000 mile on a truck and the fluid has never been changed???

Tacyon, can you post some pictures of your dashcam mounted to the mirror. I am looking at doing the same thing on my 2009.

Where can I buy one of those Alien Whistles???

Hi, I have a 2009. I am not sure what your problem is, but I would be curious to find out how it is ultimately solved. I have some information to share that might help and share a similar problem. I have not had the recall performed on my car yet. I actually was hoping the recall would fix my problem where my gas gauge only goes to ¾ as well. Here is what happened with mine. My gauge worked fine until I was hit in the back (rear-ended). The gas tank did not have to be replaced, but ever since then, my gauge only goes to ¾. I assumed, incorrectly, that the fuel pump that also is the gas gauge sending unit was somehow damaged and had that replaced. It was replaced, with no resolution, still only ¾. Another thing I noticed on mine is the “counting down” of miles until empty is off. It will hit zero at the correct time, but will say I have only 50 miles to go when in fact I can probably go 125. It then counts down slowly (meaning I drive 4 miles and it is only reduced by 1 mile). Prior to the accident, it was very accurate. Does yours also have that issue. Anyhow, I was actually hoping that the tank replacement might fix my issue – where it has now caused yours. I was possibly wondering if a baffle (if it has them) was knocked loose and somehow is getting in way of the measuring unit. Just guessing of course. I am not sure our problems are related, but it is funny it is the same issue. Let me know if your miles to empty reading has changed like mine has. The gas smell could be some gas spilled on your interior when they performed the repair. Gas can smell for quite a while. Easy to tell – get back there and smell around your carpet in the back.

A quick update. My "Redneck Repair" is about 2 months old and still no noise. Note it is about 10 degrees in Southwest Michigan. I am not sure if that has an impact, but I thought I would share.

Very common. My 2009 did the same thing. Nice write-up.

I'll take "Spark Plugs" for $500 Alex...

Just a quick update on my "Hillbilly Repair". I am about 1 month into having done it with about 1,500 miles and still no squeak.

Well, I took it into my mechanic and as we have all discussed, it seems like it has to be the calipers/brake/lines, etc. So they replaced the those, along with the rotors (to make sure everything was starting out smooth). So far they are smooth (but they always were with new rotors). But I think this should fix it. Finger's crossed.

MACT, I use almost the same braking components you use from Autozone. My pads are the Cmax ceramics and the rotors were the top of the line rotors they had at the time. I think the high carbon content came out only a few years ago and weren't available when I started this journey. So my first four rotor/pad replacements were exactly those parts. The last two were NAPA's top of the line painted rotors along with OEM equivalent pads. PAUL - I always take a brass brush to the face of the hub and to the mating portion of the wheel to remove any dirt/rust so the faces mate evenly. I have to believe I have a caliper or brake line issue. It seems to be getting worse.

The system has never been bled. Pads always show even wear.

Lugs are always torqued to 100lbs and retorqued after a couple days. Tires are rotated by me regularly and show even wear. Brake fluid never leaks or is low. Every year I siphon what I can out of the reservoir and replace with new.