evh

Wiped "Fluid Film" above both rear tires (yes, on the paint) to try to slow down the surface rust that is eating my Edge. ☹️

Curious why you stated "Believe it or not, I want my 09 back! (Grin)"???

I recently purchased a 2016 3.5L SEL AWD. Shortly after I got it I looked underneath to see if my PTU had the drain plug. A bit shocked on all the covering under there. I couldn't tell where things were at just a glance. I have owned a 2009 for 8+ years now and never had to raise it to do oil/transmission fluid/antifreeze changes. My guess is I will have to raise my 2016 to do these things to mainly get the shield off, right??? Also, can anyone confirm if my PTU has the drain plug. I read some posts here about it and it seemed to depend?

Keep driving her. It's money in the bank!!!

I think the key is to remember to ask for it when you are getting your tires. I purchased the same tire measuring device like they use at the store so I knew when mine were at 4/32". I then went in and asked them to check my tires and see if they thought I needed new ones. Once they confirmed I did, I mentioned I purchased my last set here and I didn't get the full mileage. No issues after that. Note, I was also at Discount Tire. They did a great job.

I thought I would share this tip on how to potentially save $$$ on your next set of tires. Some background is needed. I just installed my fourth set of tires on my 09 Edge. I have tried all different brands (Goodyear, Bridgestone, Toyo, Coopers). None of them have come close to lasting as long as the warranty indicates. My most recent set lasted a little over 36,000 miles and they were 60,000 mile tires. 4/32” of tread remaining seems to be the cutoff point for the tire shops where they state that your tires are worn out. I am sure if you are where it doesn’t snow you could continue to run tires like that for a bit longer. Up here in the Snow Belt I want the most tread possible so I get new tires right away. I went back to the large chain tire store I bought my previous set at. They credited me $75 per tire! So I have a $300 credit toward my next purchase. I bought a set of 70,000 mile tires that also had a $70 rebate so I was out the door for $287. I really doubt this next set will last 70,000 miles. So if I still own this Edge, I will be back to the tire shop and get another set at a great discount.

I have had a similar problem as well. My bet it is the Tone Ring. I have had that on two (or three?) wheels on my Edge and the system acts a bit weird. I am dealing with it on my Daughter's 2008 Ford Escape. In researching it on the Escape I found this write-up and thought it is very applicable to the Edge as well. Nicely written with photos. https://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85395

If you drop the last two zeroes on the first two codes (i.e. U0102 and P0010) you will find some information. Not sure if that is appropriate, but take a look.

Nice looking! Black looks good with those rims.

2009, 220,000 miles, drain plug has never been replaced.

Welcome to the group! Note it is customary, for the newbie to buy a round of beers for everyone.

Yes, the dealership made many mistakes: 1. Setup an appointment for a recall repair and did not have the parts in stock (so I dropped the car off the night before, had to call them on how things were going and that is when they told me. I had to get a ride back there and setup another appointment). 2. Did the recall incorrectly causing me to have to schedule a 3rd appointment to have it repaired 3. Found the problem and indicated it could be 3 days before I might get it back. True, I had no contract where they must provide it, but a wise business would make accommodations for such mistakes. When I said "rental" that could be a used or new car off their lot. Also understand that this is an EXTREMELY large operation. It currently has over 7,500 new and used cars on all of their lots. You might think they could spare a used car and a dealer plate.

I don't know what part/s were replaced. I made sure to note if there was any gas smell on the inside. I don't think they actually accessed the pump through the inside. My back seat is folded down and has certain things back there and nothing has looked out of place. I wonder if their procedure forces them to do it below because they want to make sure and not get any gas on the interior. That smell can last a long time. I still question if they replaced anything or simply tried to correct what was wrong. There was not a lot of time between my calls to them and when I picked it up. I did park on a steep incline for 5 minutes and no leaks. Although I am hearing some rattling/clunking a bit now when pulling out of the driveway. Now what...

Edgieguy, thank you for the prayers and offer of a vehicle. You are too kind!!! So a bit of follow-up. I called the dealership yesterday afternoon to see how my car was doing. They had to drain it and lower it and found a leak where the fuel pump goes. Makes total sense based on the code and how it was leaking. I asked if it would be done by the end of the day. No, they needed a part and wouldn't have it until 3pm the next day. Would it be done by end of day tomorrow. He sure hoped so...... I said I guess I will have to get a rental and hung up..... I try not to get angry but that was straw. I called back and said you will provide me with a car/rental and I will be there soon to pick it up. The guy paused and then said, okay. He called me back about 20 minutes later and said my car would be done in about 30 minutes. Funny how that works. When I asked how they were able to fix it without the part he said he sent someone to another location they had and got the part. He said his tech didn't do anything wrong on the repair, but the Ford supplied gas tank had an issue where the fuel pump was installed. Didn't really matter to me who screwed up, but I am glad he didn't throw his tech under the bus. Well, I have it back and so far no leaks. I will be checking codes periodically to make sure there is still not a leak. On a side note I think our replacement vehicle will be a 2016 EDGE AWD SEL. Stay tuned on that. Then I can be Double Edged like MACT!!!

Thanks for the kind words. Attached is a picture of the Jeep. I think just a little rubbing compound... the courser grit formulation for sure...

Ok, the purpose of this post is two-fold, to share information but mainly therapy for me so here goes. It is a bit lengthy, but an interesting (and scary) story. So my 2009 AWD Edge (219,000 miles) developed a loud noise in the back. I was 99.9% certain it was my rear passenger wheel bearing (it was). Also note I had two outstanding recalls on this Edge. One was a fuel tank rust inspection/replacement (possible leakage) for us in the rust belt. The other was the passenger side air bag recall due to possible flying shrapnel potential (note my dealer said they don’t have parts for mine as of yet or it is not a priority). No, biggie right? What are the odds I would be in an accident with someone in the passenger side and have the air bag go off…. Keep reading. I typically do my own repair work where I can, but this is not something I am equipped to do or have ever done. When I need to take it in, I have a local mechanic I have used but they have gone out of business. We have a very large local Ford dealer that is generally assumed to be pretty good. However, we all know it boils down to the person working on the vehicle. I also don’t like a car this age and mileage being messed with. Let’s face it, things are bit older and fixing something here, can cause problems someplace else (well likely true with any vehicle, but older ones may be more prone to this). Well, I decide to take it to the dealer and get the noise looked at and the gas tank replaced. Note, I did try to get the gas tank recall resolved maybe a year ago. I made the appointment and went in. When I got there they said they did not have the parts, so I left. When I made this current appointment I asked the service writer to confirm they had the parts (apparently AWD and FWD tanks are different). They did, so the appointment was made. The work was done. I picked up my car and the noise was gone. A new gas tank was installed. I looked under the car and things looked new in the tank area. About a week after the work was done my check engine light came on. I have a code reader and it is a P0442 (small evap leak - i.e. gas tank is not holding pressure). This is the typical loose gas cap code. Hmmm, what are the odd???. I have never had this code before and it shows up right have the gas tank is replaced. It also shows that this code is pending as well. So I don’t clear the codes and I make an appointment to take the car back in. A bit worried they will say it was not related to the recall (but come one, you replaced the entire gas tank and all the connections, common sense would indicate…). I drop the car off early in the morning and my wife meets me there in her 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The dealership is on a busy road. It is lightly raining and about 7:30ish am. I drive and we are about 1,000 feet down the road going about 40/45ish (my guess) and a 2015 Chevy Suburban turns right in front of us. There is no stopping (I did hit the brakes) and I T-Bone them! Holy )(*######@@)(U% !!!! I hit them just behind the passenger side rear door. Remember how fast I think I am going? Do you know how heavy Suburban’s are??? I have a dashcam and captured the entire thing. All of their air bags deployed. Our front two deployed. I won’t go into all the details but they weren’t hurt. I had a few minor issues. My wife was hurt the worse. Fortunately no hospitalizations. The other driver admitted fault. The Jeep was totaled. Not sure about the Suburban. If you have never been in an accident like this all I can say is WOW!!! We are still shaken and the Mrs. is still in a great deal of pain. So that same morning I go back to the Ford dealer and say I need my car back. They have not started work on it yet. I explain what happened and that I will be back in touch with them to make another appointment. So we are down to one car as of this writing, my Edge. I clean the gas cap and gasket and decide to clear the code, maybe this is just a coincident. I check the code after a couple days and it is still clear with nothing pending. However, if you read about this code it only is checked at certain times. I don’t know all the steps but something about a full tank of gas and then having it get down to ¼ tank etc. Bottom line it takes some time for it to get set again. I fill up the tank yesterday (note, I always always stop at the first click) and stop and see my brother who has a driveway with a slight incline. We are talking outside by the Edge and I am like “Hey brother, do you smell gas?”. He says “Yes”. I look under the Edge and there is a gas spot about the size of a large pizza under the Edge. Gas is dripping from just in front of the passenger side rear tire at a rate of about 1 drop every 3 seconds. Wonderful…. So as of this writing we are car less and the Edge is back at the dealerhsip. You could argue this entire story a number of different ways. I did the recall so I wouldn’t have a leak but instead it created a leak and I would strongly argue lead to a totaled Jeep and much pain and suffering. Remember my comment about the odds of a passenger side air bag going off…. My title of this post is roughly the value of the totaled Jeep. Ok, again, I thought I would share. More from a therapy perspective for me than anything else. It has been a hell of a couple of weeks. Thanks for listening. EVH

Welcome to the team!

My battery lasted 3 years and died (Michigan). It ran fine then just quit. A jump it and got it started and then died again (i.e. I stopped the car and tried to start and it was dead). I'm betting it is your battery. I'll take "Dead Battery" for $500 Alex...

How old is the battery and was it tested???

My vote is plug and coils. The key here is you state that is occurs going up a hill and that it usually happens at the same place. My 2009 did the same thing. To the untrained eye, it feels like a transmission issue. But it is usually between 40 - 60 mph going up an incline, that is when the "shorting out" occurs. Car goes "Ka-chunk" and you think your tranny is slipping. They don't find a code because I was told by my mechanic that Fords are the worse and don't record codes unless it is really really bad. The only way to catch it is to have a scanner hooked up and drive it when it does it. Again, what I am told. I replaced the plugs and the coil "tips - a $6 replaceable part on each coil". Problem is resolved. My mechanic also stressed to replace the tips and not the coil. He said that if a coil is bad, you would know it. I did what he said, and all is well. Note, others here will tell you to replaced the coils since you have it apart. Your call. Again, my two cents. Note, it is Motorcraft part WR6135. RockAuto sells them for $3.62 and they are one of their most popular parts. When I took mine off, they were in terrible shape. Assuming you have the 3.5 liter engine.

Just a quick follow-up on my reply in this post where I had a similar gas gauge issue (you can read about it above). I just got my Edge back from having the gas tank replaced as a result of the gas tank corrosion recall. It seems to have resolved my issue. I just filled up and the gauge went all the way to full. It hasn't gone past 3/4 for over 3 years now and I always fill it completely when refueling. I guess I should have had the recall done earlier...

Follow-up. I just replaced the rear rotors and pads. I just had to use a hammer and hit the rotor. I mainly hit the inside front of the rotor where the pads DON'T touch the rotor. About 5 or 6 good hits and the rotors came right off. No issues. Also note these are 9 year old original rotors used in the salty north.

Based on a video I watched, I jacked up each rear tire independently and moved them back and forth and spun each tire. I noticed no grinding or play. I thought each tire would spin freely and they really don't. I have an AWD model and you can tell it moves the drive shaft that is connected to it that leads up to the PTU. So it moves it just a bit (smidge) until it firms up in the PTU and then the wheel turns. I assume it is supposed to do that. It behaved like this on each rear tire. I also went to the place I bought my Bridgestone Dueler ECOPIA's. They only have 35,000 on them and they are 60,000 mile tires. Two are down to 4/32" and two are down to 5/32". They will replace them when they all hit 4/32" and give me roughly $70 on each one as they have worn to fast. I share this as it has been my experience that as tires wear they become noisier and noisier. When these tires were first put on, I couldn't believe how quiet my car was. So I still have a loud howling. It gets louder and quieter with speed and is not impacted at all when I swerve the car one way or the other while driving. It is pretty clear it is coming from the rear.

I thought my tires on my 2009 Edge AWD were getting noisy but it is just too loud to be tires - I think? It sounds like it is coming from the rear. The rear driver's wheel bearing assembly was replaced about about 100,000 miles. I know have 216,000. Note that when I am driving and sway left and right the noise does not change. I thought it might by changing the load on the bearings. My thinking it is more tires when it behaves like that. Can I jack up the car and spin/move the rear tires and confirm that it is one or both of them? Will I fee grinding or feel play in them?

If the air bag light was on as well, that would steer me away from the tone ring. I agree with the others on checking the battery. My last battery died after 3 years and 1 month. Earliest ever I have had a battery die.