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Yes, pins are cleaned and lubed every time. Funny thing is new pads and rotors always solve the issue for some period of time. I find it hard to believe I have gotten 6 bad rotors from two different manufactures. So lets say I check the runout and the rotor is warped or has high/low spots, what do I do (i.e. what is causing it? I doubt a 7th set of pads and rotors will fix it). If the rotors are not bad, what does that tell me? An issue elsewhere, but what? That is what I am trying to figure out. What would the next test be to try and figure this out other then throwing parts at it???

I’m looking for any help on this issue I have had since I purchased my 2009 Edge Limited AWD used in 2010 with ~65,000 miles. Every year (usually every year) or two I have had to put new front rotors and pads on the front. It feels like they warp and I can feel it in the pedal and steering wheel. They are smooth for about 9 months but then the vibration comes back. So each year it is new brakes and rotors. I use the top of the line rotors and ceramic pads from a local chain store. I spoke with my mechanic and he indicated he has more trouble with the cheap discount chain brake parts. He suggested I use another local chain that typically has better parts. So this August I bought their top of the line rotors and pads. They were more expensive than OEM. I had to replace those after 2 months. The funny thing with these, is it doesn’t feel like a vibration or pulsating anymore in the pedal and steering wheel. It now feels like high and low surfaces in the rotors. So the steering wheel and pedal feel fine. The car kind of brakes and lets go and brakes and lets go. Again, feels like I am hitting a high and low spot on the rotors. So I went to the place where I got the parts this last time and got new ones under warranty and replaced them all again in October. They stayed smooth for only a week or so and now the high/low feeling is back. I asked my mechanic (owner and still wrencher of an independent local shop) about it and he mentioned that some Edges had braces that hold the brake hoses that rust and can constrict the flexible brake lines. He looked at mine quickly and said mine didn’t look like the ones that he has seen have the problems. I would like to try to identify what the issue is and not throw additional unneeded new parts at it (new hoses, new calipers, etc.) like I have been doing. Note when I take the old parts off, I never notice anything out of the ordinary. I have probably done 50+ brake jobs in my life (clean, torque, lube etc.) so I think (hope) I know what I am doing. Anyhow, any suggestions or feedback from anyone that has had a similar experience or other things to look at would be much appreciated.

OK, I have resolved my squeak issue. As I stated before the culprit was the rear sway bar link on the driver’s side. As I also mentioned, I watched MACT’s video on replacing his front ones and it did not look like an easy job (he had to cut his out). It was also mentioned that the rear ones may be easier then what MACT showed on the front ones. Ok, remember, we are here to help each other and not judge and be critical of the poster…. I did some more googling and came across a YouTube video titled “Redneck Ball Joint Repair”. Yup…. Basically this guy pokes a small hole in the ball joint rubber boot and fills it full of lithium grease from a spray can. I have a spray can of lithium grease and I have an ice pick! I didn’t even have to raise the car up at all. I just put my shop light under it and crawled under it with my ice pick in one hand and lithium spray can with red extension tube in the other. I poked the holes in the top and bottom rubber boots, filled them up and I was done. Maybe 10 minutes total time and $0.00 cost. I got out from under it and a few bounces on the rear bumper and the squeak was gone! I then drove about 15 miles towing a trailer going over many bumps. No squeak. I got home and bounced the back. No noise at all. I realize this is not a permanent fix, however, I am no worse off than I was before. I will continue to update this post when I detect the squeak returning. For total transparency on why I selected this solution. Well, my 2009 AWD Limited has 205,000 miles. It stickered at $40,000 and is worth roughly $6,000. I don’t plan to keep it much longer so I am hesitant to sink much cash into it.

Follow-up I think MACT gets the prize. I got under the car again and had a friend bounce on it. I could confirm it was coming from the back driver's side, but it was really hard to tell exactly what it was. Finally I started grabbing things and moving them to see if that would identify the culprit. It did. MACT is calling it a "Rear Sway Bar Bushing". RockAuto calls it a "Stablizer Bar Link". I think they are one and the same. See attached photo. When I grab it and move it, that is my squeak. Unfortunately I saw MACT's video on replacing this. It looks like a huge pain. Factor in that I don't have a place to get the Edge up on a hoist, I am thinking this will eventually have to go to my mechanic. Again, see attached picture.

As promised, I did get under mine and had someone bounce up and down on it. I heard the squeak. It was coming someplace from back, most likely on the driver's side. I sprayed silicone on everything rubber I could find and it didn't seem to make a difference. It was a tad warmer today and the squeak was not that loud. I will check it out again once the weather gets colder. I would agree with Enigma on it being the things he pointed out. I'll keep you all posted if I find the actual culprit in my situation. To be honest, everything looks dry and cracked under mine.

I doubt mine could be the shocks. It's only 8 years old with 205,000+ miles on it. They should still be fine...

That just started on my 2009 Edge. I do wonder if it is tied to the colder weather. Mine is a creaking where it sounds like something "rubber" might be involved. If I have mine parked and bounce up and down while standing in the a rear door opening I can make it do it. I hope to have someone do that today while I crawl under it. I think if I do that I can tell exactly where it is coming from. I did look at both rear shocks and they both look the same with no obvious fluid leaks. I'll let you know what I find on mine. Possibly even take a picture of the guilty component and post it.

You don't provide much information. Given the age of your Edge and the climate you live in. I would start with the battery. Have your tried jump starting it?

I had to replace that part on my 2009. When I was replacing the back spark plugs I had to remove the battery. That piece was so corroded that it broke. I was worried I would have to replace the entire wiring assembly but I found I could purchase just the wedge piece and bolt that you are talking about. That was in May of 2013 and the total cost of that part was $16.70. I thought I had a picture of the diagram showing that part and number. I haven't found it yet. I will post it if I find it so you can get the part number. Note, until I got the part I used a hose clamp to wrap around the connector and hold it tight. Surprisingly, it held. The part number is 7T4Z14450A. Google it and you will find a picture of it. I did not use the entire clamp just the parts that I needed off of it. Also note, I would douse it with lubricant because it likely can't slide due to corrosion. That was why I had to replace it.

I had the same issue. If I install the lengths that are called for (at least on mine) they catch. I shortened one, and all is better with no wiping issues. A pretty easy solution.

New, 1985 Plymouth Turismo 2.2L with the Duster option (fin on back and a few other things). 5-Speed manual tranny.

!! Welcome to the Club !!

I wonder if the gas struts are bad/weak? I don't disagree with the actuator thought of enigma and the testing you did but here is a thought. I wonder if the horn honks because it thinks something is in the way of the hatch opening (obviously there is nothing there). If the struts can't help it up a weak actuator may fail if the struts can't help it along. Just a thought. Not sure why you didn't leave the other actuator on, but if it's a cost thing, 2 new struts may be the solution. Just spit-balling some another idea....

You have a partial solution simply based on your location. Your profile indicates the Great Lakes area. That is where I am located as well. I would argue that for at least 6 months out of the year, PTU heat will not be a factor. If someone had an infrared camera, it would be interesting to take a picture of the PTU after an hour drive is 20 - 30 degree weather. I bet it would have a hard time overheating in that environment.

I wonder if the ceramic wrap will cause other problems with the exhaust and cats? It will obviously make it hotter than what it was designed for. I would think if you are changing the fluid every 30k, you will be in good shape.

Paul, that looks good given all your modifications. Makula, so far no issues. The tape is holding it firm. It looks good. I did compare it to the factory protector on my Wife's 2013 Grand Cherokee. I note that her's is a much harder black rubber than this is. One thing I would do different is how I put the small piece of tape in the middle. If you look closely you can see that it raises the guard in the middle where that tape is. 3 long strips would not show vs the way I did it with the small strip in the middle.

I agree with enigma, I don't believe there is any maintenance required for it. Mine has been working for 9 years and I haven't done anything to it.

I got the same one nittanydoug got from costco (universal WeatherTech) but from Pepboys. I paid ~$35 for it. Fits great, and it is very "rubbery", nothing slides on it.

Yes, it has had very good maintenance (all done by me.... well most of it). Yes, I think it will easily go 300K. The biggest issue I have now is rust around the rear wheels and under the hood. My current plan is to replace it in the next two years. I do use mine a bit like a truck so it is nice having an older vehicle that I don't worry too much about if it gets a blemish on the inside or out. Having said all of that, here are the items that currently have issues. Some I will address, some I won't: 1. Driver's side seat heater has been out for 3 years (I won't fix). 2. Gas gauge is off ever since I was hit in the back. Fuel pump and sending unit were replaced with no luck. I wonder if gas tank recall replacement may fix (baffle broke off and getting in the way of measuring device???) (I won't fix). 3. Coil/Spark Plugs. I have a coil or plug issue and get the kachunk when going about 50mph under load up a incline (has been doing it for 1.5 years, I will get to it....) 4. Rust (I continue to put touch-up pain on it - lipstick on a pig - getting hard to do, area is expanding) Other then that, it is in pretty good shape. Although when I checked the oil the other day a chunk of rust from the hood on the front driver's side corner (under the lip) fell to the ground. The rust was about half the size of your fist. Odd, nothing is showing on top of the hood, but it is all but gone underneath. See attached pictures.

I have 200,000 on my 2009. I plan for at least one more year, possibly two.

ben senise, how much was the OEM guard for your 2016?

I thought I would share my experience and photos of installing an inexpensive rear pumper guard. What I was looking for was an inexpensive guard for the top of my rear bumper of my 2009 Limited AWD. I use my Edge more and more like a truck carrying around heavy items (small engines, etc.) and the top of the rear bumper was starting to show it. I did read other threads here on the forum and looked at the Toyota Scion rear bumper guard that is stated to fit quite well. I think best price for the Scion bumper guard right now is around $70+. I wanted something less expensive. My thinking is I have a 8+ year old car with > 200,000 miles that is worth roughly $6,500 at this point (sad, it stickered new for roughly $40,000). I don’t want to trash it and want it to last a bit longer (watch out MACT), but I wanted to keep expenses low. Picture1 - I did some research and found many different ones on eBay. The one I bought cost $9.49 delivered straight from China (it arrived in < 10 days, I was surprised). You will find many different suppliers sell this same item. It is 41” in length, comes with 3M tape and a wipe to clean your bumper before application. (Note, there are also 35” ones being sold, they are too short for our Edges in my opinion.) Picture2 – This is how it arrives and what is included. On the negative side, the tape was placed in the bottom of the box so when I pulled it out, the edge of the rolled up tape picked up some cardboard paper from the box. Not the end of the world. I was happy to see that the guard was curved and could be adjusted quite easily (straighter or more curved) so I wasn’t concerned about it not fitting the bumper correctly. Picture3 – Shows what it looks like after I applied the tape. A couple of notes here: It doesn’t say how much tape is included. I decided I wanted a vertical strip right in the middle and on each end. I then wanted 3 strips between them. There was not quite enough tape to do that. I had some other double stick tape that I used when I ran out. I would estimate that they want you to simply run 3 long strip horizontally along the length of the guard. Installation: I cleaned the top of my bumper and started to install the guard. I took the backing off the middle vertical piece and lined that up with the hatch latch that is in the middle of the back. I made a point to put this close to the end of the back of the bumper. The thinking is that this does not have a lip that wraps around the back of the bumper toward the ground, so putting in very close to the back edge may offer some extra protection. Once I had the middle adhered, I removed the backing on the 3 strips on one side and took my time and applied it (see Picture4). I made no special measurements. I then did the other side the same way. Pictures 5, 6 and 7 show the finished product. All in all I am happy with the results. It has been a couple days now and it has not blown off in driving or started to buckle/bulge, etc. I’ll update this thread after a few months and let you know if there are any changes. Let me know if you have any questions.

My wife is now calling my 2009 Edge Arby. Well, at least that is what I thought she said (you know, like the fast food place I thought). She clarified and said no dear, I said RB... Short for Rust Bucket. Sadly, I live in the rust belt and I have more rust around the wheels on the rear panels then I have seen on any Edge older or newer. Not sure why. Garage kept, washed and waxed regularly. Possibly just the luck of the draw. Anyhow, it looks like that is now it's name.

I have had to replace two tone rings (different wheels) on my 09 (Michigan). Yes, a pricey repair.

I would take the truck. Personally, I would be a little uneasy about taking any vehicle immediately on a long trip after a major repair. I would want to drive it a little and make sure there aren't any issues. You are a long way from home and if you had to leave it with a unfamiliar dealer a long way from home, not good. Put the mileage on their truck.