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If you want a guess, mine is tone ring (part of the anti-lock brake system) or anti-lock brake sensor. A crack or issue in a tone ring can turn on all the lights you mentioned except for the airbag (you said you weren't sure). They can then call turn off on their own if it behaves again.

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Greetings!

New guy buys the first round! Welcome aboard!

All the lights coming on and then going off are classic tone ring symptoms. On one of mine (I don't remember if it was a front one or back one), all the lights came on only after I went over 78ish. When I slowed down, they all went off. The thinking was centrifugal force was separating a crack in it. When I slowed down it would close back up.

Not sure what the POP would be. Unfortunately you can't buy the tone ring separately. I think you have to buy the whole "hub/bearings, etc". It is all one unit. Do some searching here as someone tried to glue theirs. It is a pricey repair ($450-$550ish) It sounds like you can recreate it by braking and turning. I'm guessing if you had the right scan tool(s) you could drive and see if the anti-lock kicks on. That would confirm the tone ring or the anti-lock system.

I'll take "Tone Ring" for $200 Alex. I have had two tone rings go bad. The ring cracks and when flexed you can get exactly what you are describing. Turning the wheel and braking puts just enough stress on the cracked ring to make it kick on the anti-locks. Then it comes back together when the stress is gone and behaves normal. Again, we are all guessing, but that is mine.

I have wanted to do this for a number of years to my 09 and finally did it today. I use my 09 for a lot of utility purposes and store a number of things under the cargo floor around the spare tire. One thing that has always been a pain has been holding up the floor while you search and retrieve what you need. My 2013 Jeep came with an integrated hook that attaches to the top of the hatch opening thus holding up the cargo floor and freeing up both hands. So I decided to make something similar for my Edge. I used a bungee cord and a couple of screws and my problem is solved. I won't even describe the steps, the pictures tell it all.

My two cents are to get it diagnosed correctly. It could be many things. Some of what I have heard by reliable sources is sometimes the "new" O2 aftermarket sensors are not as good as the old OEM that you are throwing away by replacing them. You could have a leak, bad wires, fuel trim, etc. Again, my two cents....

Or you have a loose wire/connection and taking it apart moved the connection and now it works. I say leave it alone.

Thanks Mike. I was afraid that would be the case.

Ok, I did some searching but I want to make sure I can get the original rotors off the rear brakes of my 2009 (216,000 miles - I know, I know). They look terrible now. I did a pad slap a few years ago. I know they will be rusted to the hubs. I am not too worried about that. I am more worried if there is something the emergency brake could have done that is going to prevent me from getting them off. I watched one YouTube video and they only had to use a hammer. His was 2010 and things looked pretty clean. I seem to remember trying to get the rears off my sons Ford Explorer and we could not get them off (some type of a ridge build up???) Please advise. Thanks!

I had a bad toner ring (anti lock brake thingy - crack in it) that would act up under certain conditions and the anti locks would kick on. You need to confirm if it is the anti locks kicking on or it could just be warped rotors. To confirm you could pull the fuse to the anti locks (I think) and drive for a few days like that. If you are sure it shows up each day and it goes away for a few days with the fuse pulled, it is likely the anti locks. If you still feel it, I would be thinking rotors. Remember you have the safety factor of no anti lock brakes during that time, however, there was a time nobody had them.

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Here are some things to look at that many people miss because they focus only on specs: 1. Construction – specifically, take a look at the hinges that hold the display. I use my computer a lot and have had 3 laptops (HP, HP and Toshiba) where the hinges failed. Computer still works fine but hinges wore out and failed because they were mainly cheap plastic. 2. Keyboard. Try typing on the ones you are looking at. Did they simply make the keyboard look cool (line up all the keys to mimic iMacs…) and functionally it is terrible to type on? That is usually the case of cheaper models. 3. Mouse/Touchpad. Many of the cheaper models have touchpads that don’t always react when you touch them. That gets frustration after 20+ minutes of use. I would also look for a touchpad that has actual buttons. Much easier to use (think click and drag, etc.). 4. The 15.6” screens usually come with a huge keyboard with a keypad on the right. I would focus on the 14” models that are smaller unless you need the keypad. 5. Look at the screen and think how you will be using it. Some have bright vibrant screens that reflect a lot. Others are more matt finish and show no reflections, but aren’t as vivid. Also look at the specs of the screen and make sure they are a high enough resolution that text looks clear. I just had a family member buy a fairly expensive laptop that seemed a good buy. It was because the screen had a low resolution and text was a bit difficult to read on it. 6. I would ignore many of the gimmicky features that you would likely never use (i.e. screen folds to the back of the unit to make it a tablet, etc.). Unless you think you would really use them. Think if you need a touchscreen or not. I haven’t used one yet, but I can see where it might be an advantage (I bought my wife a Chromebook with a touch screen and see her using it instead of the mouse – surfing, Facebook, etc.) 7. Many of the cheaper retail machines (Dell, HP, etc.) are about the same. You won’t notice too much difference. If you pay more you can get into the “business” line of laptops that are constructed better. I come from the corporate environment and like the T series from Lenovo (you won’t find them in the stores). Their keyboards are rated #1. Their touchpads are near perfect. They are built like tanks. 8. If you are coming from an XP environment I would argue most any computer “technical” specs will suit you just fine. 9. Will you be using it sitting on your lap? My wife complains that the Chromebook I got her has a sharp edge where her wrists are. 10. Most laptops today are coming without a CD/DVD drive. That is usually ok. If you need one, you can usually but a USB CD/DVD drive for < $30 for the times you need one.

fishx65, initial thoughts on the Continental's? Quiet? I have had terrible luck with Continental's on a couple of cars (Fusion and Taurus). But I sure like the $253 price!

I would call the company Crutchfield. A conversation with one of their salespeople might help narrow it down quickly.

Possibly the anti-lock brakes kicking on and feeling like grinding? If that is what is happening you could have a bad toner ring or sensor on one of the front wheels. Just a thought. Wait and see what others post. The delay in it occurring could be because things need to heat up a bit before the issue occurs. Disc brake shield on the front rubbing under certain condition? Take a look at them and bend them out a little and see if that helps (our Edges have these shields right guys??)

Bad spot on the starter? Pushing it moves it just a little so it starts. That's my guess. Final answer.

I have a 2009 Limited (fully loaded, almost every option). It has power driver and passenger seats, however, the seat backs are manual. You have to lift the lever and lean forward or back and release the lever to adjust the angle on the seat backs. Hate it! Also note I do enjoy that I can take the passenger seat back and lean it all the way forward to facilitate hauling long items in the Edge. Maybe the manual adjust allows that. Yes, I want my cake and eat it too.

akirby, if I had to place a bet, I would say sensor and/or tone rings. I have had two tone rings fail and have had new "bearing assembly's? - I forget the name $$$" installed because you can't simply replace the tone ring (although I read on here where someone did it). I think I had one go bad in the rear and one in the front. I have not pulled the fuses yet, but I may do that today. Just a bit scared it will screw something else up (computer/codes). But I think now it is worth the chance. So if it is a tone ring or sensor, pulling the fuses should eliminate them totally.

I still wonder how this will work. On other recalls you can wait months for parts. So if I go in there today are they going to keep my Edge and just have it sit on the lot? For weeks/months? Liability? Something happens to it, etc.? Think how many they would have larger cities. Or if I can keep it, I just got a free (yes smaller) car to drive.

I got a letter for my Edge today as well. I actually tossed it. Pulled it back out after reading your post. Edge's only get $30 a day for rental. I almost think that has to be wrong. So I could go to them today and say I am waiting for parts, give me a rental. It could be months. Crazy. Or am I missing something??? A nice way to keep my mileage down.

Pedal is fine and has not changed since I have owned it. I always clean and lubricate the pins. I had my mechanic put all new calipers, rotors, etc. I took tires off and checked his work. All new Ford parts. I always clean the front of the wheels (where they touch rotor) and torque them back on at 100lbs. I will try pulling the fuses and see what happens. I am trying to not throw parts at this thing, but I am not sure what to do from a diagnostic perspective. I wonder if a scanner hooked up to it would show the antilocks kicking in when braking. I had posted this same thread a while back and the consensus was new calipers, etc. Did that. Same issue. So what I am thinking is that if the fuses are pulled and the system shut down, I could rule that out if it still did it. If it stopped, I know where my issue is.

I appreciate all the help I can get. ABS light is off and always has been. Everything is torqued, cleaned, etc. when installing them. DIfferent brands, different pad types, etc. Nothing helps. Now all new Ford parts - same issue. It feels like something is grabbing it, not really like a warped rotor. Thus, my question about pulling a fuse.