imafordboi69 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 A couple of months ago we started noticing that the ABS would engage while doing normal stopping on dry roads. You would just be pushing on the brakes and then the ABS would kick in and push back on the pedel and make it take longer to stop. At first it was just a minor inconvienence. Lately the car has been doing this more than it has been doing regular braking. Just a normal drive can turn hazardous when we try and stop for a stop light and the pedel pushes back and wont let us stop the car even with us standing on the pedel. The wierd part is that the little ABS light on the dash never lights up with the exception of during startup like normal. We finally got it into the dealer this morning and they said that the cause is a CV axle thats broken causing this malfunction and also we need to replace a sway bar link and outer tie rod. Grand total of $950 to which i said oh hell no. I looked it up and did see that the teeth that the ABS sensor reads is on the CV axle so i got the car back and drove it up on ramps and looked it over myself. I checked all axles (AWD model) and did not see even any missing teeth on the axles where the ABS sensor reads. everything looked good with all CV boots in good shape as well. Also the sway bar link looked just fine. I would think that if the sensor teeth were messed up then the computer would notice while driving and throw a code to cause the light to turn on. I know for a fact that this dealership is having money problems. Gilbert Auto in Moscow ID. They have been in the paper for records related fines, not paying off trade-ins, and lately they arent paying the property rent. Im pretty sure they are blowing smoke up my tail pipe trying to get money out of us, all the while knowing its just a simple little fix. We have an appointment with another dealership in the next town over to get their oppinion. Untill next week, i pulled the ABS pump fuse so that we can drive the car safer than we were before. Yes the ABS doesnt work at all now and so the tires can lock up in a skid and the roll stability control cant function, but i believe that it is safer than not being able to stop at all. Has anybody else had a similar issue? I just know it has to be somthing easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldo Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 (edited) I've never heard of an issue like that, but I think you're right to be suspicious of the diagnosis. If the sensor ring was bad, it would throw a code and stop working completely, not work "too much". My only guess is that the issue is something like a bad shock that is causing the wheel to loose contact with the road, which would cause the ABS to come on more aggressively. Do you notice it happening more on bumpy roads? Or it could also be related to tire wear. Are all 4 of your tires the same model and evenly worn? Edited April 3, 2013 by Waldo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imafordboi69 Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 I've never heard of an issue like that, but I think you're right to be suspicious of the diagnosis. If the sensor ring was bad, it would throw a code and stop working completely, not work "too much". My only guess is that the issue is something like a bad shock that is causing the wheel to loose contact with the road, which would cause the ABS to come on more aggressively. Do you notice it happening more on bumpy roads? Or it could also be related to tire wear. Are all 4 of your tires the same model and evenly worn? All four tires are at about half life and are of the same model and they get rotated every other oil change per the request of the bussiness we bought them from.. The issue happens all the time while most of our driving is in town on flat paved streets. We live on a hill and as we leave our driveway and start to go down the hill, its doing this with our foot on the pedel keeping the rig at around 10 mph. No bumps or pot holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoss66 Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Sounds like a wheel speed sensor. Its very easy to replace if you can figure out which one is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worldkaps Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Any updates on this issue? For the past several months we've been experiencing the exact same issue. To a tee. At first, it was infrequent. Enough to not even notice, but now theres days where it is constant. I pulled the ABS fuse for now. Would love to hear how your situation turned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdgenlxi Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Just an FYI often times the sensor ring can "look" fine with no missing teeth but it's actually loose on the CV axle and can move back and forth or just fall out of place completely, which is what can give the intermittent issue. It doesn't set a code because the sensor is working fine, it just sees that wheel speed dropping to zero which the module interprets as that wheel locking up, just as it would in a normal ABS situation, and acts accordingly to the inputs it receives 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feirstein Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Related issue. My ABS/service/stability control lights come on once in a while. Code said to change out the left sensor. I put in a new OEM sensor but it did not solve the problem. One day the lights are on then later during the drive the lights go off. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Codes never say "change a sensor". They can only report a symptom of the problem and tells you where to start looking. What code was it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Your tires maintaining pressure? Could be a bad wheel sensor, providing erroneous data. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feirstein Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 The code reader I used (from AutoZone) expressly said that the left front sensor was not being read. Some code readers translate the code into a description of the code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 The code reader I used (from AutoZone) expressly said that the left front sensor was not being read. Some code readers translate the code into a description of the code. But that's still only a symptom - could be a bad sensor or bad wiring or even a bad module that's reading the sensor. Did you test the sensor to make sure it wasn't working and did you test the new one to make sure it was working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feirstein Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Dealer just reported it is a broken sensor ring. But Ford does not sell a replacement ring so you have to purchase a new axel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Code said to change out the left sensor. Dealer just reported it is a broken sensor ring. Exactly why you can't rely on the code to identify the failed part. That seems like a rare problem - did you hit a rock or something that would break the sensor ring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyBobby187 Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 I too am having the same issues of the traction control/wrench/abs lights go off and on. I had the codes read and it says c1165 & c1175. Doing some poking around I found those codes to mean that both rear speed sensors are bad. I find it highly suspect that both sensors would go bad at the same time. I followed the wires from the sensors to where they both connect. Wires look good. Any suggestions? By the way, I have an 07 Ford Edge SEL AWD with 59,000 miles. Thank you all in advance for your anticipated help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Seems a little unlikely but certainly possible. You should be able to test the sensor outputs with a voltmeter, or just try replacing one to see if that code goes away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyBobby187 Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Seems a little unlikely but certainly possible. You should be able to test the sensor outputs with a voltmeter, or just try replacing one to see if that code goes away. Do you know what the outputs should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennyt Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 I had this same issue and after some research I ended up removing each tire, one at a time to inspect & clean speed sensor. Also disconnect & clean rear connector at the double connect point. I found a clamp that had come detached at the R front speed sensor allowing it to touch the control arm. After re securing the clamp the warning lights went out after a couple days. My theory is that since the ABS is an inductive circuit, the ABS cable touching & bouncing off the control arm was inducing an intermittent false signal. Hence the intermittent warning light, I figured I saved $$$ by not taking it to a dealer. Thanks to the Forum for troubleshooting this and other issues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chauncey2014 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 My problem is abs random activation on my 2007 ford edge sel. As the above people stated, upon braking abs activates with no wheel slippage. I have checked all brake pads and looked at all wheel motion sensors and they seem ok. However, my local autozone does not have a code reader that will tell me which exact wheel motion sensor may be bad. All four are different so buying one to find the problem is not feasible. It started slowly and has gotten worse over time (1 year-ish). akirby... Could a bypassing master cylinder cause this problem(as there is a front/rear together)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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