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What have you done to/with your Edge/MKX today?

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Last night, I download the latest MyFord Touch software updates "3.8" from FORD website and installed it in my MyFord Touch screen.


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ABOUT THE LATEST UPDATE

The new software update for SYNC® with MyFord Touch® systems includes all the improvements from previous updates, plus additional benefits such as:

Siri® Eyes Free*:
•Now iPhone users can use Siri® Eyes Free with SYNC® with MyFord Touch®. With simple voice commands, SYNC® with MyFord Touch® enables you to operate the iPhone and SYNC® together. Siri® Eyes Free can be activated by pressing and holding the voice button for at least 3 seconds.

Secure, simple phone pairing:
•Phone pairing is now easier.

Automatic reconnection:
•If your phone disconnects, SYNC® with MyFord Touch® will automatically reconnect it.

Easier entry of destinations for China:
•Now SYNC® with MyFord Touch® allows for easier entry of destinations.

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My battery died randomly yesterday. I was fortunate to be in the parking lot of a parts store and they had a battery in stock that would work. My original battery lasted 4 years, not to bad. I should have replaced it earlier though. We are going on a trip this weekend to catch salmon with our hands! So I am happy it died now rather than we were on the trip.

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Fortuitous turn of events, in a way, are always welcome :) Have fun with man v nature. Video update to come on your channel?

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Did the front half of swapping out the spark plugs.

 

OEM.....with a blue dot on top of the spark plug and .74 gap! I guess that's what you get when you run original for 130,000.

 

Going to attempt the back bank tomorrow with the engine cold.

 

Did I mention that I have the added pleasure of swapping out the heated PVC valve? '07 Baby! :rockon:

 

Just so I could spend a hunnert dolla at the dealer, I bought an antenna, too (part #18813). I know it was the dealer, but I bought the car from them and they have been giving fairly decent discounts on washer pumps and mirror switches; most of which were ending up as dealer items anyways.

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I think the hardest part really was not recognizing all the places things are tethered together with bolts, wiring, & tubing. Moving the EVAP valve helped a bunch with adding room for the brake booster tube & throttle body portion.

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Did the back half today. Went a little better than expected. The two rear hoses were a pain to get the clamp off of them. They have both been replaced with standard hose clamps. The clamp on the throttle body seemed somewhat loose; could be a sloppy job on changing out the air filter.

 

Did snap one of the red retaining clips. I undid one from the front and swapped out out so if I come across one at a later point in time, it will be easy-peasy to put it back in. With everything out of the way, the heated PCV valve was a breeze. Rattled like a spray can, but no point in leaving it there this far into it. I was thinking I could of gone the cheaper route and just replaced it with a non-heated one, but once again, I'm not trying to take any chances.

 

I know some may not approve of this method, but I smeared di-electric grease across all female connectors, then used a blue towel to clean off the face. This would leave a small deposit in each hole for re-connection.

 

I am 99% sure I have everything connected up. I was in somewhat in a rush because I had an appointment in the middle of the day, then wanted to do a test run before it got too dark and the Trick-or-Treaters came out (rain might slow them down anyways). I noticed right off I had somewhat of a surge in RPM around the shift point. It settled down a little bit, but it somewhat noticeable more as a harder shift than normal. I didn't seem to have a problem with cruise control on; more on surface streets, but it's still a bit early to tell how bad it is. I did have a bit of a lag with Reverse coming from Drive before, so I can't say that this is purely from my handiwork. I'll check everything again tomorrow morning and might even disconnect the battery tomorrow; more for greasing the connections, but maybe something will reset during the downtime.

 

Can't say that it has more power or better mileage just yet. Most plugs were in the .65+ range.

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Might wanna doublecheck the clamp on the brake booster hose. Good idea to disconnect the battery (30 min or more), then let PCM relearn.

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Disconnected both grounds and the positive onthe battery as I made all the surface areas shiney. Might of had the whole thing apart for 15 minutes or more since I took as much time as I could (albeit it was raining on me). Shift lurch is still there, but I believe it's between 3rd and 4th. Going to consult the service manual as to possible causes. Might take it to the dealer (or local shop if they have the tech) to hook it up to the computer to see what codes might be spitting out and reflash the software.

 

My onboard MPG thingy said I picked up about a mile per gallon, but I've been running longer, more constant speeds since the last fill up.

 

Blower motor is the next major project. Watched the liftgate shock video and I might do that, too. Ordered the LED bulbs and resistors, too.

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Tranny flush! Time will tell as to the shift issue, which is OK since I want to give it time before flashing it.

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Tranny flush! Time will tell as to the shift issue, which is OK since I want to give it time before flashing it.

 

 

I was noticing 2nd gear was not changing as smoothly as other gears specially during first 5 minutes of driving so I did a tranny flush a month ago. That hard gear changing is now gone!

:)

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Took out the LED reverse lights and replaced them with GE Nighthawks. Bought an extra set, so I tried them in the wife's CX-5, too. Couldn't tell the difference between stock. Does seem a little bit brighter back there - tint is darker than my liking, but with the window down it seems decent. Might try some 30w LED's next, but I'm somewhat done with playing with the lights for now.

 

Nighthawks:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017OFTB8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

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Hope you can return the Nighthawks at least. Gets expensive trying to find the right bulbs ...

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I have been using these Philips led backup leds for a while on my MKX and am very happy with them. They have that bluish factory LED look like factory LED revers lights & do in fact illuminate the back brighter while reversing.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P2D41OQ/ref=psd_mlt_bc_B00P2D41OQ

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Hope you can return the Nighthawks at least. Gets expensive trying to find the right bulbs ...

 

I'll keep them. I'm too lazy to put the stock Edge reverse lights in for comparison against the Nighthawks. Like I said in another thread, it's not as much LED being brighter, it's more about having the right source of light for the lens reflector. When I had the LED bulb in my wife's CS-5, it was brighter(whiter) than the stock side, but there was no 'hotspot' of a focused beam. Granted this is with the bulbs that I used and omar302's bulbs look more like a projector-style, so he might get a better throw of light away from the vehicle. Omar might clarify, but it looks like most of the LED chips are inside the tip of bulb, pointed backwards to a reflecting ring that throws light in 360 degrees. If it does have a higher lumens rating than stock, it is benefited by having the correct angle to hit the reflectors in the right way to throw the light away from the vehicle.

 

This thread is dealing with headlights, but it gives an example of what I talking about:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?384923-White-wall-amp-lux-comparison-LED-H11-LL-H11-100-H9

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There ARE bulbs that are designed like an incandescent bulb but with an LED inside, usually found on EBay. But lumens is not rated higher than the stock bulbs, and price is relatively high. omar's suggestion is a good one, I might try them out if I feel like pulling the taillights again :)

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There ARE bulbs that are designed like an incandescent bulb but with an LED inside, usually found on EBay. But lumens is not rated higher than the stock bulbs, and price is relatively high. omar's suggestion is a good one, I might try them out if I feel like pulling the taillights again :)

 

Or, in this case:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-White-3157-SRCK-CK-30W-High-Power-LED-Back-up-Tail-Brak-Light-Bulbs-3156-4057-/201458751533?vxp=mtr&hash=item2ee7e0982d

 

The end tip LEDs would act like a flashlight without the need for reflectors....

Stop talking about LEDs.....making me want to spend money....

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LED. LED. LED.

 

The one I was thinking of has this design:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-USA-WHITE-LED-T10-194-168-921-2825-W5W-WEDGE-BULBS-WITH-GLASS-REPLACEMENT-/321401924164

 

Designed & made in the USA, it was a limited production run. If they are still selling and I find 'em, I'll post a link.

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LED. LED. LED.

 

The one I was thinking of has this design:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-USA-WHITE-LED-T10-194-168-921-2825-W5W-WEDGE-BULBS-WITH-GLASS-REPLACEMENT-/321401924164

 

Designed & made in the USA, it was a limited production run. If they are still selling and I find 'em, I'll post a link.

 

I have a set like that in 3157 amber. They are yours if you want them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321400273283?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

They work well, but I was looking for something with a little more power and that stuck the LED's out more for side viewing.

 

I also have a couple of white 15w 194's http://www.ebay.com/itm/281640608501?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Like I said, I need to lay off the LED's for a while.....I'm starting to have a collection.

Edited by Brucifer
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Claimed power is 80W. Actually nowhere close to that. Wouldn't use them for high beam for sure.

But for DRLs they're acceptable, a bit brighter than stock halogen though somewhat greenish.

 

DSCF0725.JPG

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Got tired of the vent mount that i was using. Purchased a Panavise VSM and used my old Ram Mount and Xgrip. Ran the Lightning cable inside the trim.

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Edited by Staggie
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