Jump to content

Oh no not Transmission issues again!


Carmen Connelly

Recommended Posts

I have a 2008 Edge SEL AWD and up until 7 months ago I had no trouble at all out of the vehicle. I've owned the car since 2010 and it had 50,000 miles when I got it. I had the Transmission Services at 100,000 miles, but around 107,000 miles while driving down the highway the vehicle seemed to lose power, all the lights started flashing on the dash, speedometer went to zero, odometer turned to lines, etc. To make a long story short took the car to the Ford dealership and the TSS and OSS sensors were replaced and the car drove great again for awhile.

 

I will point this out before the dealer checked my car and I told him what was going on he said 'well with that amount mileage it may just be time for a new transmission.' Not sure if it's just me but replacing transmissions at a little over 100,000 miles is not normal. I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix Supercharged with 205,000 miles on it and the transmission had to be replaced at 201,000 miles.

 

Anyways, about a month after having the the sensors replaced in the Edge I noticed the car was slower to take off from a stop at lights, it also began to jerk and lose power going uphill. So in October I had the spark plugs changed and the jerking and power loss uphills went away, problem solved. Now my issue is the still remaining slow take offs from stop at lights and occasional clunking when going at speeds of about 10 mph. I have noticed with the slow take off issue my RPM's would go up a little higher as if my shift points are off but never over 3500 rpm. It's possible the car is taking off in a higher gear, I'm not sure because I'm not very vehicle mechanics savvy. I plan on taking it to the dealership to get checked out but I'm afraid it'll end up automatically being a worst case scenerio type of situation with those guys. I'm just wondering if anyone can spare a little knowledge or insight from experience with this type of vehicle, so that I know what to say to the service advisor. Also, I am wondering if having the PCM reflashed since it's never been done (atleast since I've owned it) would be worth it or possible considering the vehicle mileage.

 

A little more information about my vehicle: It now has 115,000 miles, the current issue has been the same from the start. I just noticed one day take off was slower and rpm's/shift response a little different, it hasn't gotten any worse nor has it changed in anyway. It's as if this is a normal behavior for the car, but I know it is not. Also, the service engine nor any other warning lights have come on, not even when the spark plugs were causing the jerking problems. My vehicle had a 100,000 mile warranty so as you can imagine I'm pretty sad that all this is happening now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome, Carmen, sorry to hear about the problems with the Edge! Does sound like the right services have been done for the issues experienced. Dealer was way out of line, though, to suggest transmission replacement that early, considering the first fluid change is supposed to be at 150,000 miles for normal duty driving!

 

Was a drain & fill performed, or was a flush performed on the trans? A flush is not recommended unless you do it at regular intervals (like the old 30K/3yr or even 50K). Too much history built up in the transmission. A 3-time drain and fill is much better & safer.

 

When you had the plugs changed, did you have the PCV valve done also, as it is right there? What fuel are you running? If 87, try running a brand name Fuel Injection cleaner through the system, preferred being a BG product or Techron. If you see results, repeat a couple of times at the recommended intervals. If not using Top Tier gasoline, switch to this for a while, preferably from a high-volume station. You can also try running premium fuel and see if the throttle response is better. I had to search hi & low for a gas station whose fuel worked for my Edge, even though I am paying a premium to do so. No Shell worked for me, none but 1 Exxon worked either!

 

I don't want to recommend this for regular use, but you can try adding 104+ Octane Booster to an empty gas tank prior to refueling. May not be the greatest for emissions, but for me, it + the Shell fuel substantially restored performance. Seeing now if the gains hold.

 

As far as the low speed clunk, here is a TSB or two that might be relevant (PCM reprogram, orifice cup, or valve body fixes)

 

TSB 10-21-02 SLIP_NEUTRAL OUT, 5TH GEAR START FROM STOP, ELECTRONIC PRNDL ERROR.pdf

tsb10-09-09_6F50-6F55 TRANSMISSION - DTC P0751 - HARSH OR NO FORWARD ENGAGEMENTS - PERCEIVED SLIP ON ACCELERATION - SLIP-DELAYED AND-OR HARSH DOWNSHIFTS.pdf

tsb11-05-06 Sluggish acceleration from stop or low speed followed by bump.pdf

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rest assured your tranny is mechanically sound at least from my perspective. I have had the same issues at about 200,000 miles and once the sensor (rear output) was replaced, i have not had an issue. Spark plugs also gave me a problem, but I ran them way too long and once they were replaced the engine regained it's power back. Regular maintenance is the best course of action. I do use Top Tier gas whenever possible and occasional fuel injector cleaner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your responses WWWPerfA_ZN0W and macbwt I guess I've overlooked the fact that gas can affect a vehicles performance and have been pointing all fingers at the transmission. When my trans was serviced it was drained then filled. The PCV valve was not done when the spark plugs were changed and I'm wondering how much trouble it would be to have my mechanic do that now since it was something overlooked by him and me? In NC our typical gasoline grades are 87, 89, and 91. I almost always use 89, but I'll start pumping 91 for awhile and start gas station hunting. I do know of one gas station in my area that recently started advertising 100% gasoline but only in the 87 grade. I'm about due for an oil change so I'll take it to the dealer with a coupon this time and and have them look into the tsb posted above about the clunk at low speeds and any other problems if there isn't a noticeable difference in performance after running cleaner through the gas tank. I'll be sure to post the outcome at a later date. Again thanks for giving me some direction. I love my Edge and just want to get the most out of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Suspect everything, discount nothing. The difficult part is prioritizing the possibilities :)

 

I have heard the pcv valve can be replaced without taking the manifold off. Since you likely have the non-heated valve, shouldn't cost more than $50 for replacement. I would press for free/discounted labor to do so if the bill estimate is higher. macbwt just put up a how to video, and am a sure he can answer questions related to this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I was just told that I have a sever transmission leak at 90k, my husband is a great mechanic and has been fixing my car since it went out of warranty. I want to know if anyone knows what kind of transmission fluid the 2008 Edge SEL AWD takes. There are so many kinds out there, I've seen F, S and several others so I'm confused... HELP!! :shift:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simple: Mercon V is all you need for your 2008's transmission (and power steering). You can go aftermarket brands with good success, stick to Castrol Transmax, Valvoline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, even store brands that have received good reviews.

 

DO NOT use Mercon LV, that's for use on later model years and is NOT compatible with your 2008.

 

The PTU and RDU use gear oil, not transmission fluid.

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently had a problem that I swore was a transmission issue. It was jerking a little between 40 and 60 mph under light acceleration or slight uphill. The dealer said it was the #5 coil that needed to be replaced. They wanted about $250 to do the job. I didn't believe that could be the issue and didn't want to pay the labor to do it so I bought the parts and replaced it myself in about 10 mins. Turns out that WAS the problem! Easy fix.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...