Jump to content
lpgao

airbag warning light stays on

Recommended Posts

my airbag warning light stays on, then I found climate control system not working, plus "hazard" button not working, or everything on sony control system not working. anybody has idea what is wrong and how to fix?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That sounds like a bunch of issues all at once. You can always reset the system (I simply pull the power to the fuse box under the steering wheel to the left of the brake pedal) and see if that works.

 

If not, that is likely worth a trip to the dealer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How old is the battery? A flaky battery can cause all sorts of weird problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That sounds like a bunch of issues all at once. You can always reset the system (I simply pull the power to the fuse box under the steering wheel to the left of the brake pedal) and see if that works.

 

If not, that is likely worth a trip to the dealer.

Thanks for your post. If I pull out fuse it will affect software installed and I lost all control?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How old is the battery? A flaky battery can cause all sorts of weird problems.

Thanks for your post. This is 2011 model. It was sit in dealer for 6 months before somebody bought it. Then it was in dealer for another 6 months until I got it in 2013. So I think battery should be ok. I am just wondering why nothing working on Sony panel? those including climate control, volume and hazard light button.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The battery could be bad. Sitting on a dealer's lot the vehicle doesn't get started and the battery can go dead. This can lead to a bad cell. If you don't find any other cause you could try replacing the battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The battery could be bad. Sitting on a dealer's lot the vehicle doesn't get started and the battery can go dead. This can lead to a bad cell. If you don't find any other cause you could try replacing the battery.

I had it for more than one year and I drive it all the time. It shows me Sony dual zone climate control not working, nothing else.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check battery voltages with engine off, and then with engine running. If battery is 12.6-12.8V when engine off/no key in ignition/no accessories on, and 13.8-14.4V when engine running, it is fine. If OEM, the battery IS old enough to have issues, regardless of how much use it has seen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

airbag light should be providing codes - don't know if a regular scanner can read them or not. A Toyota that I had you could short two pins together and get a dot dot dash type code that could then be deciphered from the repair manual. Not old enough to have battery issues (in the air bag) so might be a bad sensor or main battery as others have suggested.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The battery could be bad. Sitting on a dealer's lot the vehicle doesn't get started and the battery can go dead. This can lead to a bad cell. If you don't find any other cause you could try replacing the battery.

Thanks akirby. I want share my situation here for everybody.

 

As airbag light was still on and climate control not working as well. I did several things.

 

First, I moved diver and passenger seats as suggested wires may be pressed. It did not fix problem.

 

Secondly, I pulled out fuse #37, which is for climate control because I want know if whether it is good or not. I found fuse is good. I put it back. Sony systems back to normal and airbag light not there.

 

Third, I pushed start engine button. I heard very little sound and engine did not start. I saw many warning lights on dashboard(LCD). I tried to start engine a few times more,no luck. Then no screen on any more. remote could not lock door. everything dead. I could not move gear to neutral for tow truck.

 

Fourth, when tow truck here, his boost connected my battery, everything come on, door lock working, started engine,no warning light,climate control working normal. He suggested to replace battery, which is OEM.

 

Fifth, Battery service guy coming, he tested my battery is good, 545 A cranking,12.5 V. Stated engine, 14.5 V. So he said no need to change battery, and alternator working fine.

 

So why? what went wrong when I pulled out #37 fuse? and this indeed fixed climate control. How battery was dead and it was tested good?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know why batteries are testing good when they're really bad, but I really think you need to just replace the battery.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check all cabling and grounds from the battery on down. Connections should be clean and tight, no corrosion/breakage/shorted wiring. If it all checks out, try replacing the battery. Not sure why #37 fuse made a difference. Did you try this again after the battery was tested?

 

At this point, honestly, taking it into the shop (dealer) is the best advice, because there is only so much diagnosis that can happen over the internet, especially when it comes to wiring/electrical components.

 

EDIT: Go through this thread and see if things begin to make sense to you:

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/22-maintenance-repair/335022-how-can-you-tell-if-battery-tests-good-really-bad.html

 

Finding a short/parasitic draw:

 

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check all cabling and grounds from the battery on down. Connections should be clean and tight, no corrosion/breakage/shorted wiring. If it all checks out, try replacing the battery. Not sure why #37 fuse made a difference. Did you try this again after the battery was tested?

 

At this point, honestly, taking it into the shop (dealer) is the best advice, because there is only so much diagnosis that can happen over the internet, especially when it comes to wiring/electrical components.

 

EDIT: Go through this thread and see if things begin to make sense to you:

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/22-maintenance-repair/335022-how-can-you-tell-if-battery-tests-good-really-bad.html

 

Finding a short/parasitic draw:

 

Thanks for your guys great replies. But I think I need make things clear what is going on with my Edge.

 

My edge is complete working as normal now. No warning light at all, and everything is functioning. I checked battery again with a battery tester, and it shows battery is in good shape.

 

I did not touch #37 fuse again because I am not sure what is going to happen. But I think the battery was drain out yesterday for some unknown reason.

 

One question here: if battery dead my edge will maintain all software? and no program will lost? Edge will working normal once new battery in?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes.

 

At this point I'd be willing to take up a collection to get you a new battery, if that's what it takes. You can't believe battery testers or even load tests any more.

 

Based on your symptoms and previous experiences I'd say it's 98% sure you need a new battery. Starting the vehicle but not running it very long will drain the battery because it doesn't have time to recharge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In case that wasn't clear....

 

 

REPLACE THE BATTERY!

Thanks lot for your kind reply. I will take serious consideration for your suggestion. My last concern to replace battery is after disconnect power the software for my ford touch will be lost or maintained in system? or say replace battery will not affect any function of Edge?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So far, with the battery change, I only noticed 2 (temporary) things:

Radio set to AM instead of FM

Dashlighting dimmer very dim

 

Both easily taken care of.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Problem: battery light remains on with engine running, no load on the electrical system.

Car is a 2008 Ford Edge, 46,000 miles, battery is only 1 and a half years old. Readings on the battery are 12.5 V at rest, all cells check out at 1.25~1.27 specific gravity on my hyrdrometer. Battery charges OK with a battery charger and rises to 13.8 V. Engine starts and runs fine, but there's only 11.83 V at the terminals with no load on the car. Connections are good. Is it the "buried" down deep alternator / regulator, or something else I'm missing.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Roadmaster4, It sounds like your deep down buried alternator is now 6 feet down and needs to be really buried.

 

ipgao, Batteries can have intermittent cells. My 2002 Grand Cherokee just proved this to me. I thought I needed a body control module and it was just a battery that read normally and sometimes read at 9V. Even in a 2002 vehicle, it played havoc on the electrical systems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Problem: battery light remains on with engine running, no load on the electrical system.

 

Just FYI - the "battery" light doesn't mean the battery is bad it means the charging system (alternator) is not putting out enough voltage to recharge the battery.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thread resurrection.  
 

15 Ti with the OP’s exact issue.  This is a Ford MyTouch Edge.

 

Airbag light.  External temp goes to “- -“. All climate controls lock up.  Touch screen controls inactive too.  Sony radio controls inactive.  No air conditioning.  Really odd scenario that started widely intermittently with a/c going on/off last week but Quickly progressed to be a more frequent issue. 
 

Even got to the point to where if you shut the car off while the airbag light was on the Sony/Climate controls would be inactive upon restart.  Completely dead and dark.  Also noticed the front windows were inoperable and memory seat position wouldn’t work either when this happened.

 

Battery disconnection would fix the above issue but not the on/off a/c and airbag light.

 

Finally turned to the fuses.  With battery disconnected I removed the 12-13 fuse from the box in the cabin box (pain in the ass to access by the way) and reseated it.  Been driving the last 150 miles without any issue since.

 

Very odd scenario overall.  I do have a video of the symptoms I can upload to YouTube if anyone is interested.

 

I should also add with the chatter about batteries in above posts... mine is only seven months old.

Edited by WxManChris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
You are commenting as a guest. If you have an account, please sign in.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×