2013 Ford Edge Wiring Diagram (Door Sensor)?

[infektid]

Hi, I (of course) was lucky enough to have the DOOR AJAR issue in my 2013 Ford Edge SE V6 AWD with Convenience Package. My question is ... can anyone out there tell me what wires in the door go to the open and close on the sensor so I can hook up another method (magnetic switch) that will work? OR if you know where to get a Wiring Diagram? Thanks In Advance!

[bikerkat]

I am having the same issue with my 2013 Edge SE. Can't wait to see who can help out with this issue..

[Edge_guy]

HA! Great minds think alike! I've been fighting with this for a long time now and its finally warm enough to fight this on my 2011 Edge. My driver door sensor quit working while still under warranty so they replaced the switch; passenger door switch started acting up this past winter and we've been putting up with it ever since.

 

I did find a mediocre YouTube video of the complete disassembly of the door to gain access to the switch; but it was almost a 45 minute process - and to what end? Put another inferior specified/designed switch in its place?! I'm a mechanical engineer and thats just insane to me!! I love working with my hands but thats just a pure waste of time.

 

We don't have children so my plan is to completely disable the sensor - we'll obviously know if the door is not latched! Currently, just the front passenger door is acting up, and this is the only door I'll "modify" at this time.

 

I have the Helms DVD of schematics/connector pin-outs and such - a WORTHY investment, even though it doesn't work on Win 7/8. (That old Win XP laptop in the closet is now good for something again!)

 

I have since found the following info: there is a 26-pin harness that plugs into the Body Control Module (BCM) (where the fuses are). This is the connector is located in the upper left corner of the BCM, above the row of F1, F2, F3, F4 fuses.

 

On this 26-pin harness: pin 5 - white - passenger front ajar switch

pin 9 - green/violet - driver front ajar switch

pin 20 - green - driver rear ajar switch

pin 21 - yellow - passenger rear ajar switch

 

I'm not sure if the image I found on the DVD is the connector or the socket, so for reference: pin 1 is violet; pin 13 is NOT USED; pin 14 is green/orange; and pin 26 is white/green.

 

I haven't had the opportunity to sever the passenger front wire yet to see if the door sensor switch is a N/O or N/C (normally open or closed) so its a 50/50 chance that simply cutting the wire will disable the warning......or I'll have to short each of these pins to ground to disable it.

 

Hopefully I'll have some time sometime this week to cut the wire and see what happens. Or perhaps one of you will beat me to the punch?! I'll repost to this forum when I've had the chance to cut the wire and determine if the switch is N/O or N/C.

[Edge_guy]

UPDATE!

 

So I removed the harness from the BCM, and cut the white wire coming out of pin 5 about 1" away from the connector housing (since the front passenger door is the one I'm having the problem with). And the front passenger door ajar icon was displayed on the dash. So I stripped about 1/8" from the 1" stubby wire exiting the connector housing and attached a jumper wire to it and touched the other end to ground....and sure enough - the icon disappeared!

 

So thats how the wiring has to be: each of the four pins I listed in my earlier post have to be connected to ground in order for the car to think the door is closed - and hence the door ajar icon will not be displayed.

 

So I removed my jumper wire and soldered a ~18" 20awg black wire I had to the other end of the 1" stubby wire exiting the connector. I removed the plastic cover that covered the driver door threshold (which also runs up the the side of the door opening to the roof latch release lever) - which exposed two metal bolts that serve as ground contacts for other electrical circuits. So I soldered the other end of my black wire to a .25" terminal ring, placed terminal ring around one of the grounding bolts.....and TA-DA!! Now when I open the passenger door - there is NO door ajar icon warning anymore. Annoyance is gone - good riddance!

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Along with adding a separate switch, this is an interesting DIY solution! Happen to take any pics?

[Edge_guy]

A separate/improved switch design is always a possibility - but without actually taking the door apart to get a first-hand look at the design (as well as available space!) - its hard to see if an improvement could be made to the current design. If I do go thru the hassle to take the door apart and evaluate the latch design, I would most likely replace the switch with the factory switch and take relevant dimensions of everything while its apart. And then I'd work on a new design and have it in place in case the switch fails again. Finding off-the-shelf switches, that are sealed (due to the environment it's exposed to), that has similar mounting hole patterns, with action arm that is shaped correctly and articulates in the free space thats available to it inside the door is not something one just goes to NAPA and they're on the shelf! And I certainly wouldn't want my door in pieces for those weeks while the research was being done! Luckily, I'm a pretty good machinist and have a nice machine shop at work - so creating a custom mounting plate or articulation arm wouldn't be a problem - but again, having the access to the entire design is key. Unless I just order the replacement switch/latch mechanism from my dealer and see exactly what it looks like and what I have to work with - instead of taking apart the door?!? Hmmmmmm.......

 

But sorry, no pics. Its just your basic "cut a wire and solder a loose wire onto it and connect the other end of the loose wire to ground". The cutting/soldering was done below the steering column at the fuse panel and I had to pull up the plastic bezel that went over the driver door threshold to expose the ground bolt I connected to. No tools/tricks needed to remove the bezel.......just pull straight up and walk off the bezel piece as it curls up the door edge by the door hinge. You just push it back into place when you're done.

 

All I needed was a pair of wire cutters, wire strippers, soldering iron/flux/solder, electrical tape, ring terminal and a socket wrench to remove the ground bolt going into the chassis. Oh - and a scrap piece of wire! And I won't even mention a headlamp - what sort of car work can be done in this day and age without your trusty headlamp!?!? :-)

[ylwpaul]

I was having the same door-ajar issue but mine was the front passenger door. I have come up with a pretty simple work-around that should last the life of the car. I was thinking about finding a push-button type switch that I could mount in the main door post but I knew that would involve drilling into the post, something I really didn't really want to do as it's pretty intrusive. But then I thought about using a magnetic switch instead.

A magnetic switch is something easy to find. They are used in lot's of security alarm systems for monitring doors and windows. They are usually designed with pin-outs for both normally-open (N.O.) and normally-closed (N.C.). They have a a magnetically sensitive reed switch that moves open or closed when a magnet is close by.

The Edge door-ajar switch is looking for a GND when the door closes. Placing another switch in parallel with the door-ajar switch is all you need to do. There are two wires that come from the switch inside the door on the door latch mechanism. For the passenger door the wire you want to find is the white 22 AWG wire in the bundle coming out of the door. you can get access to this bundle by removing the (door sill plate) the plastic trim covering the front pillar area of the door opening. This will allow you to see the wiring bundle where it enters the car from the door up next to the glove box. There are two white wires in the bundle, a 20 AWG and a 22AWG. Look for the thinner of the two. This is the wire you need to splice into. (At this point if you don't care about the interior lights coming on when you open the door and you just don't want to see the door-ajar warning any more you can simply add a simple normally-open switch with one side of the switch attached the the white wire and the other to a GND. Turn the switch and the door-ajar warning will go away as you've now grounded the sensing wire at the Body Control Module. I simply added the switch so the warning went away and I left it that way until I was ready to install the magnetic switch.

When I was ready to add the magnetic switch I just paralleled the new switch across the switch I'd previously installed. I placed the magnetic switch inside the plastic trim just beside the top fastener clip. I afixed the switch with some decent double-sided tape. I reinstalled the trim. Then I then took a small but powerful neodymium magnet and moved it around the outside of the trim near the area where the switch was installed behind the trim until I could tell it was closing the switch. (I had a DVM across the switch at this point so I could see when the switch was closing) Once I was confident I had the right spot using some silicone adhesive I glued the small magnet to the plastic door trim directly across from the switch. Now when the door closes, the magnet is brought close enough to the magnetic switch that the door sensor receives a GND and the door-ajar warning is gone. It works perfectly and only cost a few bucks. If anyone is interested I will provide some pictures. BTW, for the driver's door the wire you'd be looking for in the the driver's door wiring would be the 22 AWG Green with a Violet stripe.

 

I'll get some pictures and post them soon. The magnetic switch is readily available in most hardware stores. They look like this: http://www.amazon.co...h/dp/B0009SUF08

 

You'll only need to use the part with the connections as the other component contains the magnetic and I think you'll need a more powerful magnet like "B" or "C" on this page: http://www.leevalley...ge.aspx?p=32065 You want it to be large enough to close the switch but small enough not to be too noticeable.

 

Here are a few pictures of the above project. The magnet is siliconed to the door panel. I've circled the area where the magnetic switch is mounted in behind the plastic trim panel. You can locate the white wire easily behind the panel and trace it along to where you can splice into it. There is also a nearby grounding point for the other side of the switch.

[Ian Nathanson]

I followed a video on youtube where it said to spray electrical parts clear directly in the side of thr door where the latch is i did it and have not had the door ajar light since and it saved me the couple hundred dollars ford wanted to charge me and took only a few mins

[Patrick_G]

I have the same issue on my 2011 Ford Edge. I have decided to go with the solution to ground the door latch sensor. However, when I open the wire cluster I find 3 wires that are green and violet. Two are identical and the third has a different shade of green. Does anyone have a guide that shows which color goes to the door latch or know which one form experience? I have a gut feel it is the third/different wire but not willing to take the risk. I have read others have by accident cut the wire for their electric window motor.