rgigowski Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I have 108k on the car and this is something that has been there for some time. Meaning, it is livable. At idle in gear, there is a vibration from the engine compartment. Take it out of gear and it's gone. Increase the RPM's just a bit, it's gone. I am leaning towards motor mounts but wanted to post up first and see what y'all might think. Not sure if turning the A/C off makes a difference or not, tried it but don't think the results helped. Thanks for the help. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Not a lot of miles to be the motor mounts or the transmission torque mount. Fairly easy to check by engaging the e brake and then shifting foward and reverse an watching the motor mounts and engine movement. Same for the transmission torque mount under the car. Torque converter or fly wheel loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgigowski Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) I would hate to think flywheel or torque converter. I mean how often would that ever happen.How much motor movement is acceptable or not? Edited November 5, 2015 by rgigowski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 This is how I tested my 2008 with many many miles on it and the transmission torque mount was bad. Then again I had almost three times the mileage you have. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotdog68 Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) Old thread but I'm having the same issue on my 2007 FWD with 112k miles. Right at 500rpm it rattles the car and is very loud. I just bought it used so I thought it might need a tune up, so I changed the spark plugs (old ones were around .075) and ran 2 bottles of Techron, but that made no difference. The idle doesn't actually seem that rough, I think it just happens to be the right frequency to resonate the interior body panels making it very loud on the inside, but quiet and smooth on the outside. Increasing rpms up to 600 or 700 makes it go away completely, which I think rules out the torque converter because that should vibrate more under more stress, right? I'll try to check for motor mounts next, as that's the only thing I can think of. As was asked earlier, how much movement in the mounts is acceptable? And wouldn't I notice some other symptoms if it was the mounts? Edited April 12, 2016 by pilotdog68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgigowski Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Old thread but a favorite thread! Hopefully we will get a reply. I haven't done a thing yet and it really hasn't worsened at all. I am thinking the motor mounts and just doing in and the transmission torque mount. Doubt they are too difficult to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotdog68 Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Old thread but a favorite thread! Hopefully we will get a reply. I haven't done a thing yet and it really hasn't worsened at all. I am thinking the motor mounts and just doing in and the transmission torque mount. Doubt they are too difficult to replace. In case you missed it, I got some replies in a new thread I started. Hopefully I don't cause too much confusion by having two threads now. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20262-vibration-at-idle-in-2007/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgigowski Posted January 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 Don't drive this vehicle much and I am getting it ready to sell. However, I thought I would update everyone. Of all the thoughts and input from everyone, turned out to be the motor mount to the transmission. The one that everyone orders incorrectly that is near the exhaust y-pipe. Happy and pleased to tell everyone, all is well. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 Thanks for closing the loop, and best of luck with the sale! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvguy44 Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Posting newbie here Experiencing this same issue and here's my story.... Is the transmission mount commonly referred to as the 'dog bone' mount? If so, I had this replaced as it was determined to be broken by the dealer inspection thinking it would resolve this apparently common vibration @ idle issue. It did not and it has gotten worse...very bad rumbling inside the vehicle waiting at stop lights. It's more prominent while in gear at a stop than just at an idle. They supposedly checked the other mounts at the same time and only came back with this one being bad. Is it possible they missed a broken one and we've got some metal-on-metal contact causing the vibrations? It can be felt in the steering wheel as well. I also notice some vibrations while accelerating and when in the 4-5 gears while driving. Even letting off the accelerator you can notice a slight vibration issue relative to something rotational. It doesn't occur while in OD (last gear) just like the 4-5 and most noticeable when freeway driving trying to pass someone (maybe even 3rd when downshifting). Not noticeable in the 1-2-3 range that I can tell or remember. Wife drives the car mostly. The previous dealer that replaced the dogbone is not my preferred dealer and took 2 days to do the work (????)....I was thinking of taking it to my preferred dealer for another round of inspections while they have it in there for a works checkup/oil change. I'm sure it will come with a $50-$60 fee of some type if I don't get the work and I'm OK with that. I think something is up and we need to get it fixed but don't know where to start. She has about 95k miles on it. 2008 Edge SEL. All input welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 AWD by any chance? Sounds more like PTU/driveshaft issue if so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autom8r Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 I just replaced the dog bone yesterday. It took about 20 minutes. The transmission mount on the driver side I replaced in October. I had the same symptoms you are experiencing. To get to this mount, the airbox and battery must come out. The battery tray itself is bolted to the mount in question. Replacement of that part is a real PITA, especially if you have the towing package. You'll need to jack up the transmission to align the new mount. Ford bolts the mount from the top and from the sides into the frame of the car. After replacement, the rumble was gone. The old mount looked good, but after its removal you could tell it was worn out. I was able to easily pass a screw driver through the mount. I can post pictures if you want to see them. Happy Trails. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvguy44 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Just FWD...not AWD. Thanks for the advise on the transmission mount. No way I can do this on my own...will have to see what kinda deal my preferred dealer can cut me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvguy44 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I might need the part number or risk spending a ton while they try to find the defective one LOL...looks as if there are several insulators on the left side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvguy44 Posted April 1, 2017 Report Share Posted April 1, 2017 (edited) I just replaced the dog bone yesterday. It took about 20 minutes. The transmission mount on the driver side I replaced in October. I had the same symptoms you are experiencing. To get to this mount, the airbox and battery must come out. The battery tray itself is bolted to the mount in question. Replacement of that part is a real PITA, especially if you have the towing package. You'll need to jack up the transmission to align the new mount. Ford bolts the mount from the top and from the sides into the frame of the car. After replacement, the rumble was gone. The old mount looked good, but after its removal you could tell it was worn out. I was able to easily pass a screw driver through the mount. I can post pictures if you want to see them. Happy Trails Are you able to post pics? I was told the passenger side mount was collapsed so it got replaced. However, the vibrations are still there and it also (didn't mention before) partially stalls at idle when the A/C compressor kicks on. Almost like a shudder. The idle is rough, also contributing to the vibration issue. Something still feels like it's loose but they said they visually inspected the 2 remaining mounts (driver side and dogbone) stating they looked in good shape. I started looking around online and found several mentions of something called the IAC - Idle Air Control valve. With the symptoms we're experiencing, it seems like this might be the culprit? Often doesn't throw codes either so they never look for it as the source. However, I can't find the part for a 2008 Edge SEL even on the fordparts.com site. Not even sure where this damn thing is. I just want this problem fixed. LOL! Thanks again any input y'all can offer! Edited April 1, 2017 by nvguy44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 1, 2017 Report Share Posted April 1, 2017 There is no IAC per se in these engines. MAF data is used to control throttle body funcion (TPS sensor). So cleaning the MAF (or replacing it) and/or cleaning the TPS sensor/throttle body could be the next step. It is rare for TB issues on the 2007-10, so the probability favors a MAF issue. All this assuming the PCV valve and air filter and all hoses in between are connected & functioning properly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted April 3, 2017 Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 Folks just a lesson learned on the Transmission Torque Mount. DO NOT BUY ANCHOR mounts. Just finished with a repair/replacement of a brand new ANCHOR mount that had vibration. Replaced it with the less expensive OEM motorcraft from Ford and the vibration has been eliminated. The anchor mounts are using a very firm hard rubber and this makes them more firm but transfers the energy through the body and steering wheel. The OEM mounts are a composite of two different types of rubber with softer inserts. Lessons learned. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autom8r Posted April 3, 2017 Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 Nvguy44: Here are some pics of the operation. Part Number Get a set of ratcheting, open end wrenches Remove your air filter box, intake tube, battery and battery tray. The battery tray actually bolts into the isolator. Put your floor jack in this location and support the transmission. Do not jack up, just mild upward pressure here. Later you may need to move this up and down a little to reinstall the mounting brackets. Rubber completely sheared. Transmission mounting bracket and center bolt removed.. 3 of 4 frame side bolts removed. This is the bitch. The transmission cooler lines run right over the top of the bolt. The bolt is every bit as long as the opening is wide. Sockets and closed ratchet box wrenches won't work here. Conventional open end wrench will take forever. Note the location of the isolator bracket and the bracket at the top of the picture. The bracket at the top has two bolts going into the frame. Yeah, I thought of that too. Old vs new. New installed. Work the jack a little to get the transmission bracket to align. Obviously, you bolt the mount to the frame and then bolt the transmission mount to the transmission. Work the jack and install the center bolt. Vibration gone. Happy trails. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted April 3, 2017 Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 Another fine post, autom8r! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted April 3, 2017 Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 Folks just a lesson learned on the Transmission Torque Mount. DO NOT BUY ANCHOR mounts. Just finished with a repair/replacement of a brand new ANCHOR mount that had vibration. Replaced it with the less expensive OEM motorcraft from Ford and the vibration has been eliminated. The anchor mounts are using a very firm hard rubber and this makes them more firm but transfers the energy through the body and steering wheel. The OEM mounts are a composite of two different types of rubber with softer inserts. Lessons learned. It's almost like those factory engineers knew what they were doing..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvguy44 Posted June 17, 2017 Report Share Posted June 17, 2017 Yah, this will have to be a dealer thing also...I'm not that good nor do I have the time available to invest in such a project. Thanks a ton though there autom8r...very much appreciated as this might be my next step in resolving this issue. Still not sure about the idle dipping though....they also performed a thorough TB cleaning of everything so I'm confused why that didn't clear up the idling issue as one would've thought it might have. Plugs have also been replaced and we're getting close to the 100k mark with plugs changed a bit after 95k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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