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Bad brake booster?

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Thanks. Downloaded PDF and bookmarked this page. Hopefully I will never need it.

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Thanks. Downloaded PDF and bookmarked this page. Hopefully I will never need it.

... or if you need it the extended service campaign will apply!

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Not for me since I already had it replaced...I think it is a one and done thing. Just hoping the problem with the booster was a bad batch or something rather than a crap design like the door latches that continually fail.

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Removing the upper plenum would also provide more room.

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Does anyone know if Ford made design adjustments to the Brake Booster or are they just putting new boosters in that have the same design failure? Looking to buy a 2013 with 54k miles on it that has had the booster replaced so I would be out of pocket if it went again.

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Hello, I have also now news. Now I have whistle when strongly I press the brake pedal, after the long parking. During driving, so far everything is all right. There is also a hissing when pressing the brake pedal. I want to know that it leads to replacement of Power Brake Booster? Whether it is necessary to replace booster vacuum line jointly?

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Does sound like the brake booster is failing. Good idea to replace the vacuum line also, although it might have a few years of life left. Hoses fail with age, and that hose is in a relatively hot location in the engine compartment.

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Thanks! I have a problem, I can't load the PDF files placed in subjects why it occurs? Any thoughts. Thanks.

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Thanks. Using this document I will compile information, I prepare for replacement of the booster, but I would like to make it as wrote in the next subject without separation of brake lines and the ABS lines but only having removed the front fairing (cowl). Thanks.

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For anyone with the sudden sinking pedal. 

 

I had the pedal go to the floor with my son on a learner's permit driving. Slipped into intersection and luckily nobody was coming from either way. 

 

Repaired under warranty with brake booster replaced.

 

Few months later went over rough railroad crossing and pedal again went to floor with no power brakes. Paid ford dealership another  $1200 to repair with new brake master cylinder installed. 

 

Three months later hit a patch of snow and antilock activated and same problem, no power brakes. Ford said good news, we've replaced everything so should be no charge this time. Days later call and say it's the abs control module stuck valve, $1200.  I called bs and said pull her out and give me the keys. I may have used less civilized words. 

 

Watched a lot of youtube stating I should jam on brakes to activate and "unblock" the abs manifold/block/module. Tried and no luck. Finally, read further and someone suggested not only jamming brakes on gravel road in forward to activate abs but also doing in reverse.  Tried in reverse and pedal IMEDIATLLY came back to normal. 1 1/2 years later 30k miles later and free youtube fix still going with no problems and $2400 stealership fixes were a waste and never did fix problem or protect my family. After you make ford replace the booster under the extended coverage customer satisfaction program, find a gravel road, drive her up to 25 mph a couple of times and jam the brakes, then do same in reverse (no need to be at 25 here) then send me the ,$2,400.  Only kidding.  Those sacks of xxx at stealership will try to charge you that much and dont really fix,  they just bleed and temporarily mask the problem. Just walk in and tell them Ken says they suck. 

Edited by Krcole
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2013 edge, 111,000 miles, pedal slowly going to floor last week . dealer swapped booster today under customer satisfaction program, (free) and tested master cylinder. says problem still exist.  wants $1,400.00 to replace some module under the master cylinder/booster area. ?? no fuking way. going to pick it up shortly and will try the dirt road trick. thanks. I did not see this module available on rock auto? anyone know where I can find it and if I can swap if need be? thanks, TOM  okay,    UPDATE: back from dealer, new booster but charged me $150.00 for brake system diagnostic. and want to replace HCU ..........nope, drove home but took a dirt road and activated ABS @ about 30 mph.  pedal and brakes felt completely normal!!  did it in reverse also for good measure, but I am back in business, guessing stuck valve!! thank you!!!!

Edited by 2kool
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 I just replaced the brake booster because all signs pointed to it being bad. very hard pedal and unable to stop almost at all. after replacement it was much better, but still same issues, hard pedal,but stopping much better. Can anyone  touch on this, do i need to replace the master cylinder as well ? Could it be a bad Master cylinder? HELP!!!

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Did you see the comment above?

 

Alternatively, do an ABS Bleed service function with Forscan Lite.  May need to follow up with a main system bleed if still some issues remaining.

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On 9/1/2020 at 3:19 PM, 2kool said:

2013 edge, 111,000 miles, pedal slowly going to floor last week . dealer swapped booster today under customer satisfaction program, (free) and tested master cylinder. says problem still exist.  wants $1,400.00 to replace some module under the master cylinder/booster area. ?? no fuking way. going to pick it up shortly and will try the dirt road trick. thanks. I did not see this module available on rock auto? anyone know where I can find it and if I can swap if need be? thanks, TOM  okay,    UPDATE: back from dealer, new booster but charged me $150.00 for brake system diagnostic. and want to replace HCU ..........nope, drove home but took a dirt road and activated ABS @ about 30 mph.  pedal and brakes felt completely normal!!  did it in reverse also for good measure, but I am back in business, guessing stuck valve!! thank you!!!!

update: got my $150.00 refunded as brake diag. was not authorized. 

 

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