After 12 flawless years, no key detected from either FOB on 2014 Edge Limited?

[Uncoiler]

Bought this car new 2014 and the FOB’s with factory remote start have worked great, 100,000kms or about 60,000 miles now. Here is what I have eliminated:

- it’s not a location issue, started fine in my driveway or anywhere else for 12 years

- neither of the two factory fobs work, new Duracell 2032 lithium batteries at 3.3 volts, all contacts cleaned

- removed the 12V car battery last night(8 years old) and installed a brand new one today, so it sat overnight with no battery if anything needed to reset.

 

Now the funny thing is it started acting a little funny earlier this week. Like the door lock/unlock would work sometimes but not other times, and the remote starter would not work, then it would. It was hit and miss for a few days. Right now it’s not working so I have to put the FOB in the console slot to start it. Also I looked under the hood for any type of switch/pin, like the aftermarket remote starters have, but I don’t see one, but I was thinking if it thinks the hood is released it may not remote start the car, but I dunno?

 

1- Is there a way for me to try resetting the fobs? 

 

2- Will hooking up my Blue Driver tool tell me anything? There are no check/indicator lights on, but I have not really used the Blue Driver tool yet, so not much experience with it. 

 

3- Any other ideas that I can try? I’m all ears, LOL. Thanks.

[dabangsta]

So:

• Pressing a button to lock/unlock/remote start doesn't work from outside the vehicle?
• Proximity unlock/lock (pulling on door handle with key near to unlock, pressing button on door handle with key near to lock) doesn't work?
• Proximity to liftgate open (pushing button in pull opening with key near) doesn't work?
• Once in the vehicle, with key fob, pressing start button says no fob found until you use the emergency slot?

Not related to the issue, but you shouldn't clean the dielectric grease off the contacts, most of these remotes have text that says not to.

Edited October 23 by dabangsta

[Uncoiler]

Yes, you are correct on all accounts. It’s like the FOB does not exist, and it’s only purpose is to start the car by placing it in the console slot. 

 

FWIW I confirmed late yesterday the problem is not with the fobs themselves, the problem is with the car not recognizing the FOB. I stopped by a local shop where they install aftermarket Remote Starters and he had a tool the measure's radio frequency. You could clearly see the frequency jump on his display when I pushed any on the buttons on the FOB, and the signal was strong, meaning the FOB is sending out the signal, but yet the car had no reaction to any of those buttons being pushed. 

 

So now I am wondering what my next steps could be, and what I can do myself if anything? Could it be a BCM issue, how can I tell? If it is a bad BCM how do I go about replacing it? Or do I leave it and have an aftermarket remote starting system installed? I plan on keeping the car for a while, it still looks and drives like new. Cleanest 2014 you will ever see. BTW I only cleaned the FOB I’ve been using for the last 12 years, the other FOB is brand new still never been used until now, and it did work for a day or two earlier in the week when it was working intermittently. . 

[omar302]

On 10/23/2026 at 9:35 PM, Uncoiler said:

Will hooking up my Blue Driver tool tell me anything?

 

If it works with ForScan, yes. It would then be able to read codes from all modules and if any code is present it can help direct you for a correct diagnosis. 

[1004ron]

I recommend the next step be to scan for fault codes using something reliable like Forscan ?

[Uncoiler]

Posting an update here in case it helps anybody else, I think I found the problem.

 

Long story short, don’t test the FOBs (I have 2) when they are together, remove one from the premises or take the battery and then test the other, and vice versa.

 

Remember up top I mentioned it’s an intermittent problem. I believe I have 1 FOB that is acting up and when I was testing my second (essentially brand new ) FOB, I think the bad was in too close proximity or in my pocket or the console, and causing issues. It was almost sort of by luck or frustration that I discovered when I used the second FOB it seemed to work as long as the original FOB was nowhere around. It’s like the bad FOB was screwing with the car, so the good FOB would not function as intended. I removed the battery from the bad FOB and put it away, and now the secondary FOB has been working great for a couple weeks now. That second FOB was intermittently working when the original FOB was around, and the horn was chirping frequently.  Anyway fingers crossed it continues.