Subwoofer project

[Linty]

Here are a couple of pix of my recent subwoofer project. My 2010 Edge came with the stock audio system and sounded rather weak. I replaced the door speakers with Polks (big improvement). I wanted to add the JL stealth sub, but it was over my budget, and I haven't heard very good news about the Ford OEM sub. I liked the stealth idea, but that meant the cabinet would be small. Decent low extension is more important to me than way high dB levels. I decided to add a Polk MM840 with a Sony XM-ZZR3301 amp. I added the small enclosure to the right of the main cabinet to gain some interior volume. The two cabinets are connected with a 2.5 inch 90 degree ABS elbow, glued in with epoxy. The cabinets are attached to the body in several places with brackets. It sounded pretty good, but not quite balanced the way I wanted with the door speaker level (especially since the bass content decreases as the volume is increased with the stock head unit). I added an RE-Q5 processor and it fixed the balance and decreasing bass problem (highly recommended if you want to keep the stock head unit and add amps). The amp is just behind the back seat, I cut the foam block to fit. (no heat probem) I am still thinking about adding an amp for the door speakers.

 

Linty

[rogersmj]

Nice work. I'm disappointed in our 2011 SEL's audio system too. It's my wife's car and she doesn't notice how bad it is, but I still may upgrade it at some point.

 

Which Polk speakers exactly did you buy, and do you know if they could be used on the 2011? I'm a big fan of Polk stuff usually.

[mrdave]

Very nice! The 90deg elbow is a great idea to add a little more volume to the enclosure.

 

I'd like to do something similar once I actually have some time. The factory sub is just OK on my 2011 Limited. Once you turn up the volume a little bit, the low end completely falls flat.

[cal3thousand]

Here are a couple of pix of my recent subwoofer project. My 2010 Edge came with the stock audio system and sounded rather weak. I replaced the door speakers with Polks (big improvement). I wanted to add the JL stealth sub, but it was over my budget, and I haven't heard very good news about the Ford OEM sub. I liked the stealth idea, but that meant the cabinet would be small. Decent low extension is more important to me than way high dB levels. I decided to add a Polk MM840 with a Sony XM-ZZR3301 amp. I added the small enclosure to the right of the main cabinet to gain some interior volume. The two cabinets are connected with a 2.5 inch 90 degree ABS elbow, glued in with epoxy. The cabinets are attached to the body in several places with brackets. It sounded pretty good, but not quite balanced the way I wanted with the door speaker level (especially since the bass content decreases as the volume is increased with the stock head unit). I added an RE-Q5 processor and it fixed the balance and decreasing bass problem (highly recommended if you want to keep the stock head unit and add amps). The amp is just behind the back seat, I cut the foam block to fit. (no heat probem) I am still thinking about adding an amp for the door speakers.

 

Linty

 

Nice install!

 

What are the boxes filled with? Anything?

 

 

 

[Linty]

Nice work. I'm disappointed in our 2011 SEL's audio system too. It's my wife's car and she doesn't notice how bad it is, but I still may upgrade it at some point.

 

Which Polk speakers exactly did you buy, and do you know if they could be used on the 2011? I'm a big fan of Polk stuff usually.

 

Roger - I installed Polk DXi570s in all doors (except for the Ford connector, they are a drop-in replacement) - not the top of the line, but a great value - the OEM speakers had harsh upper mids and flabby bass - the Polks would sound even better if I added a bass blocker cap or an amp with a HPF - I will get to that step later this summer - Linty

[Linty]

Nice install!

 

What are the boxes filled with? Anything?

 

 

The boxes are sealed and total about .45 qft - I stapled some 1" convoluted open cell foam to about half the interior walls - after some testing I decided that combination sounded pretty good, so I stopped there. The suggested box design from Polk didn't say to fill it, so I didn't (I don't like taking the speaker in and out unless I have to). btw - I also added some Dynamat around the inside of the plastic cargo area cover (behind the grill mount) just in case I created a rattle.

 

thanks

Linty

[cal3thousand]

The boxes are sealed and total about .45 qft - I stapled some 1" convoluted open cell foam to about half the interior walls - after some testing I decided that combination sounded pretty good, so I stopped there. The suggested box design from Polk didn't say to fill it, so I didn't (I don't like taking the speaker in and out unless I have to). btw - I also added some Dynamat around the inside of the plastic cargo area cover (behind the grill mount) just in case I created a rattle.

 

thanks

Linty

 

Cool. Here's a +1 for a sweet thread.

 

 

 

[Sammyaxe]

Here are a couple of pix of my recent subwoofer project. My 2010 Edge came with the stock audio system and sounded rather weak. I replaced the door speakers with Polks (big improvement). I wanted to add the JL stealth sub, but it was over my budget, and I haven't heard very good news about the Ford OEM sub. I liked the stealth idea, but that meant the cabinet would be small. Decent low extension is more important to me than way high dB levels. I decided to add a Polk MM840 with a Sony XM-ZZR3301 amp. I added the small enclosure to the right of the main cabinet to gain some interior volume. The two cabinets are connected with a 2.5 inch 90 degree ABS elbow, glued in with epoxy. The cabinets are attached to the body in several places with brackets. It sounded pretty good, but not quite balanced the way I wanted with the door speaker level (especially since the bass content decreases as the volume is increased with the stock head unit). I added an RE-Q5 processor and it fixed the balance and decreasing bass problem (highly recommended if you want to keep the stock head unit and add amps). The amp is just behind the back seat, I cut the foam block to fit. (no heat probem) I am still thinking about adding an amp for the door speakers.

 

Linty

Hey There!! I am in the midst of adding an aftermarket sub to mine and was wondering about the re-q5 processor you installed. Did you just hook it inline just the subwoofer speaker wires, and use it just for the sub, or did you wire in all the speaker in the car to it?

[baum]

IMO you should have used some polyfill (they stuffing in pillows). being that you are about .1 cu ft small (it really makes a difference on how efficient the sub is). With polyfill in the box it "tricks" the sub into playing like its a much larger box. I had to do the same thing when i built custom boxes that go around the spare tire. i have 2 12" jl subs and the airspace i had was only like 1 cu ft and i needed a little more so stuffing came into play.

[NatG]

Baum's advice on the polyfill is excellent. My friend setup my old system in my Impala/Xterra, and he recommended it. And that system sounded awesome. Plus 1 for you, Baum.

[rogersmj]

Hey There!! I am in the midst of adding an aftermarket sub to mine and was wondering about the re-q5 processor you installed. Did you just hook it inline just the subwoofer speaker wires, and use it just for the sub, or did you wire in all the speaker in the car to it?

 

I'm wondering about this too. I think I'm going to have to add a sub to our 2011 SEL, and I'm interested to know from the OP what the rest of his audio setup is like. Are you still powering the door speakers using the factory head unit, or did you get a separate amp for those? How do you have the RE-Q5 hooked up?

[Linty]

Hey There!! I am in the midst of adding an aftermarket sub to mine and was wondering about the re-q5 processor you installed. Did you just hook it inline just the subwoofer speaker wires, and use it just for the sub, or did you wire in all the speaker in the car to it?

 

 

Hi Sammy - The input to the RE-Q5 is from one of the door speakers, and the out put of the RE-Q5 is to the input of the sub amp (it's mono)

(I tried adding a second input to the RE-Q5, but it didn't make any difference) - you can go with their smaller version, but I may add a 4 channel amp for the doors at some point, so I went with the larger one

 

hope that helps

 

here's a link to a helpful website

 

http://www.reqsound.com/

[Linty]

IMO you should have used some polyfill (they stuffing in pillows). being that you are about .1 cu ft small (it really makes a difference on how efficient the sub is). With polyfill in the box it "tricks" the sub into playing like its a much larger box. I had to do the same thing when i built custom boxes that go around the spare tire. i have 2 12" jl subs and the airspace i had was only like 1 cu ft and i needed a little more so stuffing came into play.

 

 

good point, that would have helped lower the Q a bit

 

if I ever take it apart, some stuffing will be added

 

(man, I wished I could have fit a 12" JL in there!)

 

Linty

Edited August 4, 2011 by Linty

[Sammyaxe]

Hey Linty thanx for responding I just finished my almost complete overhaul of the audiophile system in our edge. All new speakers, sub, 2 amps, sound processor, and a small cap, with the factory head unit. We did not want to lose the completely stock look or in dash 6 disc changer, and messing with steering wheel control adapters is a annoying. It is still tedious work to wire the speaker output wires to the processor, then the amp to the speakers, but at least all four speaker wire twisted pairs are accessible in one spot thats easy to get at. The RE-Q5 is perfect and the system sounds amazing. If anyone would like any pictures, or has any questions let me know. I built a custom amp rack that is fit perfect under the rear floor without having to raise it, and a box that fits behind the rear panel and actually mounts to the factory enclosures cage nuts with 1" L brackets.

Edited August 11, 2011 by akirby
Personal attack

[rogersmj]

Hey Linty (or anyone else who has done this), when you're running the amp power and speaker lines, do you think it's easier to go up the passenger or driver side of the car?

[Sammyaxe]

Hey Linty (or anyone else who has done this), when you're running the amp power and speaker lines, do you think it's easier to go up the passenger or driver side of the car?

 

The driver side for sure. There is a large rubber grommet, or diaphram seal where a harness run through the bulk head. Its perfect to run the power wire. The speaker wires are all accessible under the LF door sill plate molding. There is a harness that runs back and all the twisted wire pairs for the speaker are right there. Once you wire it all push the power wire and speaker wires under the carpet along the left edge. Dont try to run it under the plastic moldings, they are too bulky. Keep in mind the plastic tabs where the push clips attach are real thin and like to break very easy, so be very careful when removing the plastic panels and door sill. I am referring to a 07 edge with the audiophile.

[Linty]

Hey Linty thanx for responding I just finished my almost complete overhaul of the audiophile system in our edge. All new speakers, sub, 2 amps, sound processor, and a small cap, with the factory head unit. We did not want to lose the completely stock look or in dash 6 disc changer, and messing with steering wheel control adapters is a annoying. It is still tedious work to wire the speaker output wires to the processor, then the amp to the speakers, but at least all four speaker wire twisted pairs are accessible in one spot thats easy to get at. The RE-Q5 is perfect and the system sounds amazing. If anyone would like any pictures, or has any questions let me know. I built a custom amp rack that is fit perfect under the rear floor without having to raise it, and a box that fits behind the rear panel and actually mounts to the factory enclosures cage nuts with 1" L brackets. I know that Baum has all the answers for everything since he is a "professional" lol, but if anyone wants any pictures or ideas let me know. But don't tell Baum though because he does not think anyone but a pro installer can do it and tune it, without "crawling to him for help". By the way if you think i am some sort of backyard mechanic, think again. If you really had any idea what I do on a day in, day out basis, you would keep your feedback to yourself unless you were asked. I am not bragging or saying I am better than Baum or know more than him, but I don't talk about other people I dont know. You should not talk about other peoples knowledge and skills when you never met them, its very condescending.

 

Hey Sammy - I agree, it is easier to get to the speaker wires on the driver's side. I'd like to see some pix if you can.

 

btw - thanks for the note - this forum has helped me out a bunch, if I can repay by helping someone else - that's the point

I have fun and learn a lot when I do stuff like this ... & with no need to mention my background

[wilsons66604]

Wow. This subwoofer project seems to have struck a nerve with a few

[akirby]

I've deleted and edited some posts. Cut out the personal attacks.

[Sammyaxe]

Sorry Akirby, I was just defending myself, wont happen again. Here are some pics Linty, I Still have some finish work to do with neatening the wires and carpeting the wood piece i cut out but so far so good.

[rogersmj]

The driver side for sure. There is a large rubber grommet, or diaphram seal where a harness run through the bulk head. Its perfect to run the power wire. The speaker wires are all accessible under the LF door sill plate molding. There is a harness that runs back and all the twisted wire pairs for the speaker are right there. Once you wire it all push the power wire and speaker wires under the carpet along the left edge. Dont try to run it under the plastic moldings, they are too bulky. Keep in mind the plastic tabs where the push clips attach are real thin and like to break very easy, so be very careful when removing the plastic panels and door sill. I am referring to a 07 edge with the audiophile.

 

So I have the car in pieces right now, and I've just opened up the wiring trench under the left front doorsill trim. How the heck can I tell which of these hundreds of wires are for the speakers? I see some twisted pairs, which I assume are them, but how do I know which are which?

[Sammyaxe]

So I have the car in pieces right now, and I've just opened up the wiring trench under the left front doorsill trim. How the heck can I tell which of these hundreds of wires are for the speakers? I see some twisted pairs, which I assume are them, but how do I know which are which?

You need wiring diagrams, they tell you the colors for each speaker wire, i do not have access to them right now or i would send them to you sorry. i would have assumed you had those before starting.

[rogersmj]

Heh, Sammyaxe...yes, I've been looking for wiring diagrams for weeks but haven't been able to find any for the 2011 Edge.

 

However, I took the doors off (needed to do that anyway to install the bass blockers) and took note of the colors of the wires leading into each door speaker. I was then able to find those in the wiring bundle.

 

Still, a wiring diagram would be immensely helpful to have. I would appreciate anyone who could send me that.

[rogersmj]

OK I got everything installed and hooked up and it sounds great (wow what a project...feel like I used almost every tool). Thanks to everyone here for their help.

 

One problem: in AC mode (sensing from the speaker wire), the RE-Q5 won't turn off. It's on all the time, even when the car is off, and even with the sensitivity for that feature turned all the way down.

 

So I'm going to have to run a remote turn-on wire. Can anyone point me to a wire that I can tap into for this? Linty, what did you use to turn on your RE-Q5?

[dr.edge]

OK I got everything installed and hooked up and it sounds great (wow what a project...feel like I used almost every tool). Thanks to everyone here for their help.

 

One problem: in AC mode (sensing from the speaker wire), the RE-Q5 won't turn off. It's on all the time, even when the car is off, and even with the sensitivity for that feature turned all the way down.

 

So I'm going to have to run a remote turn-on wire. Can anyone point me to a wire that I can tap into for this? Linty, what did you use to turn on your RE-Q5?

 

Use fuse #35.