beauporter Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I have a 2007 Ford Edge SEL 3.5L V-6. Noticed something leaking where the transmission bolts to the engine block. I'm guessing it's the rear main seal/rear crankshaft seal. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem. Mileage on the Edge is 56,000. Mileage seems kind of low to already have a bad rear main seal. Just wanting to know if this is commom. I'll be checking other parts of the engine to make sure there isn't a leak at the top of the engine. Any feedback is much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackdaniel Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I would check higher up,it might be dropping to the lowest point. If have access to a hoist,shine a good light around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beauporter Posted October 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Checked the top of the engine, and I see no sign of oil leaking. Looks to be coming from where the transmission mounts to the engine block. Is there anyone on this site that has had a rear crankshaft seal replaced on a 2007 Ford Edge? If so, how much did it cost? I know every automotive shop varies in costs. I'm just looking for a approximate dollar amount. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josueh411 Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 I have the same problem mine leas from the weep hole between the oil pan nad block, I have just replaced the water pump long job but not complicated, and now everything is back together, but when I drive it is fine, when is idle parked it leaks coolant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Leaking coolant AFTER changing water pump???? Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josueh411 Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 Yeah I forgot to change a metal pipe that goes from the water pump to the thermostat kinda hidden in between fuel injectors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted December 27, 2018 Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/15/2013 at 4:27 PM, Josueh411 said: Yeah I forgot to change a metal pipe that goes from the water pump to the thermostat kinda hidden in between fuel injectors! Tell me more about them. I did not hear any mention of their inspection when replacing the pump never. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted December 27, 2018 Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 This pipe is also known as the coolant crossover tube/water pump inlet tube, and was a subject of a coolant corrosion related customer satisfaction program on 2007-9 MY Edge MKX that used Gold Coolant from factory. 09M04-S1 Certain 2007 through 2009 model year Edge and MKX Vehicles - Cooling System Corrosion.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 On 12/27/2018 at 9:09 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said: This pipe is also known as the coolant crossover tube/water pump inlet tube, and was a subject of a coolant corrosion related customer satisfaction program on 2007-9 MY Edge MKX that used Gold Coolant from factory. 09M04-S1 Certain 2007 through 2009 model year Edge and MKX Vehicles - Cooling System Corrosion.pdf Thanks. But I would like to understand more precisely for what replacement and to whom because it is specified in this document that replacement is required "for some", there is a wish to know for what some is necessary? LOL I understand that there is corrosion in certain cases, but what signs to check to understand need of replacement of this tube and need of replacement of gold cooling fluid by green. For example at present I have filled in gold cooling fluid how I can observe signs of corrosion, for example color of cooling fluid, course of tube or still something? As far as does it need to be done to everyone with gold liquid? Also I would like to understand distinction, as far as I understand, there is other green liquid which is filled in in engines after 2014, it is VC 5, for example Peak Green which is remembered at this forum, but in this document it is recommended to change on cars 2007-2009 for green VC10-A2 liquid. In what distinction? Material of production of the engine identical. Perhaps VC10-A2 stops corrosion or still something stronger? Thanks for your thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 The test Ford does is to see if the heater core is clogged, as laid out in the document. Since the tubes in the heater core are very narrow, they are the canary in the coal mine, I guess. No idea if there is any visible indication in the coolant itself, or it would have been mentioned. I suppose you could have coolant analyzed to confirm the presence of foreign matter. There might be some buildup in the overflow tank/degas bottle, but that usually is simply additives that have dropped out of solution. Answer: change the coolant! Knowing this to be a potential problem, the question is why not implement a KNOWN solution and be on the safe side. I assume Ford stopped using the painted crossover tubes, but maybe not. Regardless, the answer is to CHANGE THE COOLANT. Motorcraft Orange began to be used sometime in July 2011, so 2012 MYs and up use it. For your Edge, the PEAK coolant needed is the Universal Extended Life 5/150K coolant, which is fluorescent green/yellow in color. It might work in place of the Orange as well, since it meets the ASTM spec. As far as materials used in production, I would have no idea. Suppliers change, quality changes, specifications change. That level of detail is almost never visible to us as outsiders, and MAY be hinted at if the part number is revised. It is a fallacy to try and assume the details from the summary, so to speak. Assume, as they say, and you make an ASS out of U and ME, LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDST777 Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 Thanks. I very much appreciate your answers, but I would like to understand more precisely. In this document VC 10-A2 liquid, it is recommended for replacement, for example darkly green Motorcraft liquid containing Organic acid potassium salt, the WSS-M97B55-A specification it is so specified the vety document. But Universal Extended Life 5/150K liquid is not available to me to shipment and still I would like to learn whether it conforms to the VC 10-A2 standard? I have an opportunity to ship Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine WSS-M97B55-A VC 10-A2 as far as it will be suitable me for replacement in this case? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 Can anyone give a sense of what it takes to replace the water pump inlet tube? 5 months/21k miles ago, I had a dealer replace the water pump and a bunch of other things, for about $5k, and I now suspect they forgot (or neglected) to replace the inlet tube. So, this past Thursday, I saw coolant dripping from what the service advisor said is the "rear torque mount", the lowest point immediately in front of the area where the transfer case would be if it were AWD (photo attached). At this time, I checked the weep hole on the top of the engine and the area did not have fresh coolant, suggesting the coolant came from somewhere else. Well, I drove it to the dealer that did the water pump work (25mi/1 hr drive) and, upon arrival there, the area I previously saw coolant was dry/no coolant dripping. Coolant reservoir is in the normal range, but right at the bottom of the range. I left it with them and accepted the charge for diagnosis. On Monday morning, they said over Fri-Sat they checked, including pressurizing the system, and looking, and they could not find the source of the leak, and told me to come get it. So, I picked it up after they found nothing and replaced nothing, and the area is and has been dry over the last few days since, but, if it leaked before, it will leak again. They told me that if it leaks again, to bring it back and they would check for the source of the leak again at no charge. [how nice! ] So, again, I know the water pump replacement is an enormous job, but, what about this inlet tube? p.s. my edge: build date Oct 16, 2007 release date Oct 17, 2007, with warranty start date April 26, 2008 (pdf repair bulletin above states "Replace the water pump inlet tube if the engine build date is on or before Apr 1, 2008") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 I do believe you have to remove the lower intake manifold (?) to get to the inlet/crossover pipe. Also have to take off the thermostat housing and drain the coolant. No idea on book time, but I would think in the range of 4-5 hours, given the bloat built into book time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 Thanks so much for the reply. So, inlet tube appears to be a <$30 part, not that easy to get to, and, it seems to me that it very reasonably should have been included in the laundry list of parts they said I needed and they replaced for me, *especially* in light of the corrosion issue service bulletin in the earlier post above. They replaced: water pump, cooling fans, timing chain & phasers (sprockets), belts, gaskets, etc; as well as two things I just asked them to add on and replace/repair while they were in there (thermostat and motor mount). Again, the current situation is that I paid for the work on top Aug 24, then paid for the Feb 8-9 diagnosis on the bottom Monday Feb 11, and, even though I have not seen any coolant leaking since the Feb 7th photo above (the day I took it in for the recent diagnosis, where they pressurized it and found no leak), I have a situation now where coolant leaked from somewhere Feb 7th, the dealer says they can't find the source of the leak and gave the car back to me saying: drive normally, watch the coolant level, and bring it back if coolant leaks again, at which time they would diagnose again at no additional diagnosis charge. Trouble is, I might need to use the car to do a long-distance move in the coming months, and I really don't like the idea of needing automotive repairs in the midst of that. Anyway, I'm quite irritated that they were not able to find the source of the leak, whether it be the inlet tube or something else. If anyone has any other suggestions as to what it could be, or more info related to the inlet tube, I'm all ears! P.S. I'm happy to finally post some confirmed information that may be interesting or helpful to others to the forum. If anyone has any questions for me, feel free to message me anytime... this forum has been a great resource for me as I've owned this vehicle. Thanks again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 14, 2019 Report Share Posted February 14, 2019 A rare situation, but the thermostat housing has been known to rot out. You would not see it if you were not looking for it. Have not had the crossover/inlet pipe fail yet, but anything is possible. If it IS the thermostat housing, it is cheaper to go aftermarket (new) or try to find a used one on eBay / car-part.com. New OEM is VERY expensive. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike dexter Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 On 2/13/2019 at 5:04 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said: I do believe you have to remove the lower intake manifold (?) to get to the inlet/crossover pipe. Also have to take off the thermostat housing and drain the coolant. No idea on book time, but I would think in the range of 4-5 hours, given the bloat built into book time. I changed the water pump inlet tube on my 2007 without removing the lower intake. It just took a few minutes of fishing, and a few scraped knuckles, to get the tube to route under and through. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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