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Brake Booster DIY


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38 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   Jhdean

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Posted 30 September 2014 - 07:57 PM

Ok I replaced the brake booster no problem but now the pedal doesn't reach the brake light switch, how do I adjust this? It's a 2009 ford adage by the way.







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#22 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 09:02 PM

It would be great to see a video on this repair.



#23 OFFLINE   RFeirstein

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Posted 01 March 2015 - 04:07 PM

Your Ford dealer will help since the OEM part has a design defect. It has gone though several design changes. A proper one at the dealer is about $100.00.  I got my money back.



#24 OFFLINE   VengefulGames

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Posted 11 March 2015 - 05:40 PM

I did a booster swap in 2.5 hours. I used basic tools such as sockets and screw drivers. It was pretty easy.
The booster magic is easy. Flip it they way I have it in the pick and rotate counter clockwise to clear the master and ABS lines and it will come out in 2 minutes.


Put the booster back in the same way then press the pedal rod by hand and flip it downward to get it into the firewall. Make sure you check the rod length while both boosters are out of the car.

I will post step by step photos and directions at a later date. I'm on my iPhone right now at work but I wanted to share my experience to help you save time. Attached File  image.jpg   133.8KB   40 downloads

#25 OFFLINE   manny

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 12:13 PM

I did a booster swap in 2.5 hours. I used basic tools such as sockets and screw drivers. It was pretty easy.
The booster magic is easy. Flip it they way I have it in the pick and rotate counter clockwise to clear the master and ABS lines and it will come out in 2 minutes.


Put the booster back in the same way then press the pedal rod by hand and flip it downward to get it into the firewall. Make sure you check the rod length while both boosters are out of the car.

I will post step by step photos and directions at a later date. I'm on my iPhone right now at work but I wanted to share my experience to help you save time. attachicon.gifimage.jpg

Hi, my 2008 ford edge brake booster again having hissing sound when press down to floor, and it's not working good. As per your post, seems you able to replaced your brake booster without hazzle. Can you share with me the step by step or video?Sending to dealer, it is very expensive for their labor cost. Appreciate your kindness.

Regards,

Manny



#26 OFFLINE   hawks05

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 10:08 AM

Ok I replaced the brake booster no problem but now the pedal doesn't reach the brake light switch, how do I adjust this? It's a 2009 ford adage by the way.

 

I hate to beat a dead horse but I'm having the same issue with my wife's 2008 Ford Edge.  I have searched everywhere with no answer.  The two people on here this thread that have this issue have not seen an answer, at least on this thread.

 

There is about a 1/4in gap between the pedal and the brake switch.

 

How do I adjust this?


Edited by hawks05, 19 September 2015 - 11:24 AM.


#27 OFFLINE   namusmc65

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 08:53 AM

Ford has extended warranty coverage on this problem.  It is not a recall, although it should be.  I have just had the same problem at 62,000 miles in my 2012 Edge.  Started doing some research and decided to call my local dealer to check on recalls.  There is not a recall but an open order on my unit which means if I have a problem, Ford will take care of it if I bring it in.  If you have already fixed yours, if you submit your repair costs to Ford, you should get reimbursed.



#28 OFFLINE   nwil10

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Posted 06 November 2015 - 10:48 PM

Does anyone know if the "open order" goes out for a 2008 Ford Edge? 



#29 OFFLINE   nwil10

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 06:12 PM

I got the brake booster out fairly easy using Haynes manual instructions. However, putting the master cyclinder on was a real pain. I used a master cylinder bleeder kit from oreillys but once i disconnected the screws, the brake fluid would stream out and a bunch would come out while attaching the brakes lines on the master cylinder. I finally got it all back together and my pedal was really mushy. I tried to bleed my brakes but it didnt work the pedal was still mushy. I had to take my car up to ford for a ECU bleed. While there the tech said that he just disconnects the master cyclinder from the booster but doesnt remove the brakes line from the cylinder. Instead he takes off the metal (i forget the exact name) that connects where the wind shield wipers are off. He stated that this would allow enough room to remove and install the booster and not need to bleed the system.

But now my brake lights stay on because there is a small space between the brake pedal and brake light switch. Any ideas on how to fix? I already bought a new switch so that isnt it. Thanks in advance.

Edited by nwil10, 06 February 2016 - 06:14 PM.


#30 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 09:27 PM

can you install spacers?   I saw a video on this someplace but can not remember where. Try a search on youtube. 



#31 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 09:30 PM

Is the switch OEM or aftermarket, just curious, if you can compare dimensions ...



#32 OFFLINE   nwil10

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 01:54 PM

Is the switch OEM or aftermarket, just curious, if you can compare dimensions ...


After market. Do you think buying an pem part maters in this case?

#33 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 02:02 PM

It matters in every case IMHO.  Some parts are only worth buying OEM with Ford, such as alternators.  Others are actually better from the aftermarket, like tie rods & various suspension bits, especially considering the price advantage.  When it came to fuel pumps for the Taurus, we avoided the Airtex brand and preferred Walbro.  And so on ...

 

I do not know if in this specific instance if there's any difference, I wanted to know if you bought the Motorcraft replacement or another brand, out of pure curiousity.  The reason I asked for measurements is following the logic of spark plugs:  they need to reach into the combustion chamber a particular amount, they need to be a particular height to seat the coil/wire boot properly and seal the well.  You would think the aftermarket makes sure their products are identical in the important dimensions, but sometimes the tolerances are enough out of spec so as to result in problems like the one you are having with the stoplamp switch.

 

Sorry to be so longwinded!


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#34 OFFLINE   macbwt

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 03:15 PM

Dorman part?   In this case size matters. I watched a youtube where a guy literally glued to dimes together and then glued them to the stop on the brake and it actually worked.


Edited by macbwt, 07 February 2016 - 03:17 PM.

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#35 OFFLINE   Zazzy

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Posted 15 February 2016 - 12:23 PM

This doesn't address the switch issue but maybe the attached will help others regarding removal and installation.

Attached Files


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#36 OFFLINE   rgigowski

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 04:16 PM

I did a booster swap in 2.5 hours. I used basic tools such as sockets and screw drivers. It was pretty easy.
The booster magic is easy. Flip it they way I have it in the pick and rotate counter clockwise to clear the master and ABS lines and it will come out in 2 minutes.


Put the booster back in the same way then press the pedal rod by hand and flip it downward to get it into the firewall. Make sure you check the rod length while both boosters are out of the car.

I will post step by step photos and directions at a later date. I'm on my iPhone right now at work but I wanted to share my experience to help you save time. attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

Hey guys... I did all this and it was not tough or difficult although I do have a problem.

 

New booster in, used my power bleeder to bleed the brakes and get any air out of the lines (also @ 122k it was time for new fluid).  Get in the car and the pedal goes nearly 3/4's down before you can feel the master cylinder engage and pressure for the brakes.  Took the car for a test drive and it will stop and lock them up (okay, chatter with antilock brakes) but the point is, it will stop.

 

However the pedal travel is a little concerning and I doubt I will be able to pass inspection.

 

In the post that I quoted above there is something about checking the rod length...  did that and they are the same but if there weren't, how the heck would you adjust it.

 

I have the old booster still and tore the car back down today thinking that maybe the rod length was suspect but no. 

 

Any ideas?   I can push the car back outside while I wait for a reply.  Obviously, I prefer putting it back together and getting it right.

 

Signed,

 

Desperate in Texas or

 

Rick



#37 OFFLINE   rgigowski

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 07:38 PM

Quick update... Put it all back together and the brakes have improved some.  Still needs 2/3's of the stroke to feel and stop but it feels like it is stiffer.

 

So, even though I used a power bleeder which is vacuum operated.  I may still have some air in the lines.

 

Does anyone know if power bleeders and antilock brakes are bleed as you'd would something without antilock?  

 

What I am asking for is proper bleeding procedure with a power bleeder and antilock brakes.

 

Thanks,


Edited by rgigowski, 11 December 2016 - 07:42 PM.


#38 OFFLINE   Zazzy

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Posted 14 December 2016 - 10:47 PM

I posted a reply the other day but for some reason, it's not here anymore.

I suspect you need to cycle the ABS and bleed the brakes again. A service bay tool (or some scan tools) will cycle the ABS. Another way (that you didn't hear from me) is to drive down a dirt road at about 20 mph and nail the brakes a few times. You need to lock up the brakes and activate the ABS. Don't worry about being aggressive because you need to activate the ABS. Then, bleed the brakes.


Edited by Zazzy, 14 December 2016 - 10:48 PM.

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#39 OFFLINE   rgigowski

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Posted 12 January 2017 - 02:59 PM

Thanks... It was the bleed.  All is well and I have nailed it after the bleed to active the antilock. 


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