All Activity

My 2024 Edge SEL does not have a CD player...none do. We have a ton of audiobooks on CD that we listen to when traveling. I tried an external CD player but it would not work in the Edge. Sooooooooooo, I copied 25 audio books from CDs to flash drive. converting to MP3 format, FAT 32 filing system on the thumb drive. USB 2.0 When inserted, the files do not come up with the same structure as the USB drive displays on my PC. I do NOT have random play enabled. The playback started automatically with a book way down the list. I manually advanced the tracks, but, after disc 3 (out of 5) it moved to another book! But I cannot figure out haw to play the tracks in order. I have played with the repeat setting, and sometimes the book will move to the nest track, but then i twill jump 2 tracks the nest time.... When playing with this before, somewhere I had come across a menu of settings, one of which was "Play All" That had worked, but I am not able to find that menu now..... SOMEWHERE there is a menu............... How does the USB device interface with SYNC ?? Thanks for any help......

If you want, you can disconnect the connector for the RDU clutch/module which will make it run in full FWD mode. This could help you feel the difference with no load to the rear. I have no experience with any, but I did notice that the case of the inner CV for the TrakMotive is circular, while the GSP looks like the OEM one. Another thing I noticed, the rear OEM Axle part number was superceded once only, unlike the fronts which changed 5 times, at least.

Thanks for the updates!

Yes please give us much more detail. I would like to know what switch you are talking about.

Welcome to the forum Patrick J. First, in case you didn't notice, you are replying to a post from 13 years ago. Second, a picture is worth a thousand words. If you can provide some pictures of what you are asking about, it would be really helpful. Finally, please provide information about your car...year, trim, etc. The more info you provide, the better people will be able to help you.

@omar302 Good to hear. In my opinion this is a premature failure of this type of joint and suspect its improper lubricant. I occasionally had the clunk with the steering at full lock and pulling off. Another symptom is what sounded like gear whine to me and thought it was my transfer case going out. That whine is about gone - its very faint now and sounds like its coming from the rear and if I monitor the AWD to FWD transfer I can hear a decrease at that time goes into FWD, which has me thinking about changing the rear CV Axles and if I do I'll be looking the TrakMotive or GSP on RockAuto.com $85 per CV Axle, most likely also incorrect lubricant, experience changing these and the fact that it should be easier on the rear, makes me close to pulling the trigger on replacing the rear. I had symptoms 2, 3, 4 & 5 described in the attached document. https://www.rockauto.com/info/570/TrakMotive-Noise-Sumptoms-of-a-Worn-CV-Shaft-02.17.pdf Anyone have experience with TrakMotive or GSP CV Axles?

@1004ron I did not have the vibration/shimmy at acceleration, but a bad clunk. But based on your findings with the wear found on the axles, and as I had no other explanation for the clunking I got. Also the fact that the axle part numbers were superceded several times (at least 5), I went ahead and replaced the left side, OEM. The clunking is finally fixed, at least about 80% of it. Also the Edge felt smoother. So I replaced the right side too. Even better. Opening the inner bearings on both axles revealed similar wear. Both sides also had the grease come out in liquid form. Left side: Right side:

Hey there. The cover panel under the glove box.. what is it? More importantly, what is the circular 'switch ' located on the bottom side of it? There's a couple of wires under the cover attached to it. Thanks!

I'll have a local guy, Jake LaMotta, do a custom dyno tune on it, once I get the parts on. Minor upgrades were already installed. NGK colder Spark plugs, TurboSmart 50%/50% BOV (keeps pressure on the turbos between shifts - only 50% vents to atmosphere so the turbos don't have to work so hard), 170* Reisch thermostat (installation this week), aFe Max Flow Dry drop-in filter installed, and CVF FMIC (Installing in April or May}, are all mainly for Florida summer heat not for power so much. Trying to keep the stock exhaust as close to stock as possible ... sleeper ... quiet and fast. Just got around to installing the aFe air filter and I can tell a couple improvements. Seems like it was starving for air through the paper filter. 1. Dead stop launch doesn't lag quite as much. 2. Feels like it pulls and keeps pulling a little harder in each gear, as compared to before.

I'm new to the turbo world. Been through this upgrade process, when I had my previous low 11's 1999 Trans Am (below). See my comments in the other thread you posted to. I changed the exhaust 3 times before it hit the right note and flowed how I wanted it to. Always open to your comments.

Thanks for your comment's fellows. I've found a few great quality wheels and tires which would shave off about 25 lbs. from each corner. So, this weight reduction woulbe equivalent to about 500 lbs. of dead (un-sprung) weight. My goal was to lighten up the vehicle a bit before doing more serious upgrades. Have decided against the wheels for now, since a turbo upgrade kit would be about the same price. I'll later buy a set of 16" Weld Drag Lite wheels and tires for the track. Shooting for somewhere in the ballpark of 400 AWDHP/425 AWDTQ. So far, I've done the Livernois MyCalibrator tune, TurboSmart 50/50 BOV, NGK LTR7BHX (95605) 1-level colder Spark Plugs, 170* thermostat, and aFe CAI PR5 Pro Dry drop-in filter. Going forward mods are going to be CVF FMIC, then, upgraded turbos. Anything more and I'd have to upgrade the fuel pump and injectors.

The lighter wheels were an aid in handling. AKA road racing. It does this by reducing unsprung weight, so the suspension follows the irregular road surfaces better. Now if you want to go around corners.........

Hi all. I know this has been covered to death, but I had an idea. I have a friend with a 2016 Edge 2.0l ecoboost with 106k miles, Cleveland engine. It just started showing signs of the dreaded head gasket failure. #1 spark plug has burnt coolant on it, intermittent P0301 code, rough idle on startup. She's on a tight budget and bought the car used from a private party, I seriously doubt any dealer is going to swap the long block for what she can afford, or for less than what the car is worth for that matter. I did some research. Seems that Mustangs with the 2.3l of similar vintage have the same issue, same cause, particularly when modded. I found a race shop on the web that sells a kit that supposedly fixes the problem. It consists of a set of ARP head studs and a modified head gasket. I looked at the factory head bolts and they seem pretty wimpy. So bad that they're even fully threaded. I checked the part number and the 2.0l uses the same studs as the 2.3, so the ARP kit should work, although APR does not list the 2.0l as an application for them. There are 2 ARP kits available, Pro Series (251-3701) for around $110 or CA625+ (251-4303) for about $400. The race shop sells the CA625+ variant. I see that Ford lists 2 head gaskets for her car. One that appears to be the original factory installed part (FB5Z-6051-A), and one that looks to be an improved version (HS7Z-6051-A) I couldn't find any notes regarding supersession or usage. It could be that the later version is intended for the retrofitted long block (J2GZ6006E), but I'm not sure. The older gasket has gaps in the sealing material that correspond with the slots in the block between the cylinders, the new one doesn't. Given the situation, I'm considering replacing the head gasket with the improved version and installing the CA625+ studs. I'm wondering if anyone has tried this approach before, and, if so, what were the results? If someone can confirm that the HS7Z-6051-A head gasket is compatible with the original engine block I would appreciate it. Thanks Pete

Obviously, you have issue sin your transmission, just by your statement. Did you know what you were buying into? When you buy a car at auction, who knows what you are really getting. Did you actually look up those codes: Code P0715 The P0715 code indicates a malfunction in the Input/Turbine Speed Sensor circuit, which can lead to issues like abnormal transmission operation and decreased fuel economy. It is important to diagnose the underlying cause, which may include a faulty sensor, wiring issues, or problems with the torque converter. Code P0740 The P0740 code indicates a "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction," which can cause shifting issues, stalling, or reduced fuel economy. It's often due to low or contaminated transmission fluid, a faulty solenoid, or wiring problems. Find yourself a good transmission tech. This looks expensive

That depends. Is your car overheating? No, then save your money. Today's engines are better designed than they were in your Pappy's days. They are designed to work with specific parameters for optimum performance , with engine temps being just one of them. The FMIC will lower the intake charge into the engine, as compared to the OEM FMIC. Given all the questions you have been asking recently on engine upgrades, I don't think you have thought this whole thing through very clearly. FIRST THING: You should come up with a clear goal of what you want, and set a budget. Before you go hog wild buying parts, make your wish list and figure out how many thousands of dollars you are looking at putting into this project. Spending more money than you need to is money out the window. Greater power is not necessarily equal to the amount of money you spend.

2013 v6 but sounds familiar. Hard start after fueling was the purge valve for me. Super simple $50 fix. Have an idle surge and dip every 3 minutes. Steady 600rpm - up to 750 - dip to 400 or lower. No codes. Has just stalled out a couple times at lights or coasting. The 3 minute timing just seems so odd.

I will second Unleashed Tuning, Torrie is very helpful and knows his stuff. I only mentioned the octane learning because it would be great since it is primarily my wife's DD, but she knows to run nothing less than 93, and if not available I can walk her through flashing the 89 tune. As for the pedal question: if you are referencing the "Pedal Commander" or similar OBD plug in devices, hard pass on that. I would not recommend. Any tuner (Unleashed, Livernois) will be the way to go using a proper SCT, BDX etc tuning device is really the only way to go. Unleashed will upgrade the transmission shifting which is a HUGE improvement on it's own. I wouldn't mess with the cats, unless you are racing and need every bit of edge (pun intended), but that would go with big turbo's , full exhaust and fuel system upgrades to say the least.

Is this a daily car or are you planning to race it? You will not find all that much improvement, however there are multiple ways to make a wheel lighter, just to name two (2): 1. Use a smaller wheel with a smaller tire 2. Lighter, less material in the wheel to reduce weight. Unless you are willing to spend some serious cash, buying lighter wheels may also result in wheel damage from pot holes, curbs, etc. that your OEM wheels would easily survive

It's your money so spend it any way you wish, however . . . The BOV will gain you that whoosh noise you want, but that's all. If you are looking for 400 / 420, then an Unleashed Tune will get you there. Average numbers are gains of 60 HP / 70 TQ. I have no idea what the Livernois tune got you as you have not said. An FMIC is a good addition as it will help keep a cooler charge, not more power. High flow CATS? If you think those are going to get you big power gains, they won't. But, they could change your exhaust noise, given a larger exhaust. Bigger turbos? You won't need those either to reach your stated goals ( 400 AWD HP and 420 AWD TQ )

*bump

Most definitely the EVAP (aka Purge) valve. Very common issue. And not just a Ford thing. Most commonly rears its ugly head right after filling up, regardless of octane. If left unchecked, can cause a host of issues, not limited to fuel tank deformation and charcoal canister failure.

I don't believe that the octane has anything to do with it - mine does exactly the same on the higher octane Costco top tier gas and the only thing that resolves it is a new OEM Motocraft/FoMoco evap valve. Part # GL3Z 9B325 B .

This low-idle issue used to happen every time I filled up with 87. It would last until I got home, and be fine after that. I also switched to 93 octane and it appears to have resolved the issue.

Hello I just bought a 2015 Ford Edge 3.5L got from auction. When you put it in reverse, it goes fine, but when you shift to drive, it still goes in reverse. I pulled code P0715 and P0740 What are your thoughts?

Very lucky I've never had this issue on my 22 ST.