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Everyone is making a big deal out of this because of one tear-down video of a 2.7 that was run without oil, that consequently spun a bearing, which destroyed the engine. Although cracked (from excess heat and lack of oil), the belt was still doing it's thing. These belts will easily do 200,000 miles if the oil is changed on a regular basis with a quality oil of the correct specification. I worry about the geopolitical state of the world, not when or if my oil pump belt is going to fail.

As you have eliminated the possibility of low voltage, the bane of electronic modules, i would lean towards the FCIM failing when hot (a broken solder joint can open when hit and cause these problems. These types of intermittent failures are hard to track down.) Only other cause I can think of is one of the harness connectors has green crusties (corrosion.) My 09 does this every once in a while (not always heat related.) I'm usually able to recover the radio by playing with the steering wheel controls, or, by shutting off the car, open and close the doors, lock the doors with the remote, then unlock the doors, open the drivers door, and restarting the car. So far, thao procedure has fixed the hiccup. .

It's great that you're enjoying the 2.7, but your concern is valid — the oil pump belt design in these engines has raised reliability questions. That teardown at 70k really highlights how early wear can become a serious issue if left unchecked. Regular inspection or early replacement might be a smart move for peace of mind.

That's all looking good - battery isn't new, but not near replacement time. The settling voltage of 12.23V is possibly an indication of a parasitic draw - I'd do a test for that - many YT vids on that. Doesn't explain the intermittent operational issues - that may need expert diagnostics and probably need to to misbehave at the time.

Hi. So I did all the tests I could. I started off with another CCA test, then Cranking test, Charging system test, Ripple test. At the end I did another CCA test and noticed it said 661 from 636 at the beginning. Not sure if that is good or not. Would a few minutes of engine running make such a difference?

No we have not scanned it yet. Alternator was the starting point. And after it was replaced I was told that I had to replace spark plugs and coil caps due to them being covered in oil and one of them was misfiring which had the car idling rough after Alternator was replaced and it was still cutting off once put in drive. And the car wasn't running long enough for the check engine light to come on after Alternator was replaced so we couldn't scan

So yesterday I decided to install additional ambient lighting (don't ask me why - just needed to do this). I hardwired door modules of this lighting system to the pin 3 and 4 of the original ambient plugs (can't find its number) in every door, just to get the power for those modules. Then I had to connect the host module to the fuse box. I chose fuse 23. I struggled a little bit with pluggin the fuse bypass. By the way I decided to put on the plastic pin cover for the C238 plug (3 months ago I retrofitted the leveling sensors, installed european headlights and added related 3 pins there but forgot to put the cover). I put everything together and after the ignition the SHIFT SYS FAULT error appeared on the IPC. I connected Forscan right away and those two errors were found: PCM: U0103:00-AF Lost Communication With Gear Shift Control Module "A" GSM: U0100:87-8B Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A (87 means Missing Message) I ran BCM self test and additional errors appeared: C1D00:11 Park Brake Apply Switch - Circuit short to Ground B1D03:15 - Right High Beam Circuit - Circuit Short to Battery or Open B1D02:15 - Left High Beam Circuit - Circuit Short to Battery or Open B143B:11 - Autolamp on input - Circuit short to Ground B143C:11 - Headlamp off Input - Circuit short to Ground Apart of the DTC's there are no other symptoms. Gear shift works, as well the right and left high beams or the headlamp switch. Errors appear again right after I try to erase them. I tried to plug off and on the BCM plugs near to the fuse box, and this C238 near to the glove box. Also disconnected the positive on the battery but without any luck. What could I look at? UPDATE: I reconnected the C238 without this plastic pin cover and this Gear Shift error disappeared. So some pins had to be pushed out. Now I need to find which one.

Using the Tire Size Calculator, the 265 is .2 inches less in diameter and .8 inches wider.

Thank you for your reply. The tester does indeed offer a few other tests so I will do them all and provide an update.

My battery died, completely, overnight. We charged it for 8 hours. Starts, runs, had to reset radio stations. My Remote start will not work. The red light flash on my key fob What do I need to do?

I'm guessing that tester has the same capabilities as mine, which is the CCA, Cranking Amps, and Charging System - if so the best to perform all those tests. Odd that the CCA will drop that much from Aug to Sept ?? The settling voltage is lower than it should be - good reason to use the tester for charging rate. 12.23V is about 65% charged.

I believe 800CCA. That is what I put in the settings to test.

Hey everyone, I’m considering upgrading the tires on my 2017 Ford Edge Titanium from the stock 245/55R19 to 265/50R19. I’m sticking with the OEM 19-inch rims and want a slightly wider look without causing rubbing issues. Has anyone here run 265/50R19 on their Edge Titanium? Any rubbing during turns or suspension compression? Did you notice any change in ride comfort or handling? Did you need to modify anything (liners, spacers, etc.)? I’d love to hear your experience before I pull the trigger. Thanks

What CCA is your battery rated at; was it 650 CCA?

Hi there, Joel here. I was just wondering if anyone had any experience fixing the blue wire on the door harness of the driver's side window for a 2012 Ford Edge. My inlaws car is having issues with the windows on the driver's side switch only working when the car door is all the way open. I replaced the switch not knowing this was the problem and while I was working on it with the door wide open everything worked fine. When my father-in-law got in the car and closed the door the windows didn't work again. I have researched it and figured it is probably the blue wire that has broken off in the connector. Has anyway fixed this without replacing the whole harness? I was thinking maybe a little dab of JB Weld might work but I wanted to see if anyone else had a solution before trying that. Thanks ahead of time to anyone who answers. 🙂

I had taken the car to Costco for a flat fix and they let me know that the lip of the rim was bent enough to allow air to leak and they put in stop leak in the rim to slow it down. Salvage 18s are probably the way to go. Need to see if Forscan can allow me to adjust the wheel size in the computer. I have this for my Bronco

Happy to be aboard. I own a 2018 Edge Titanium.

Are there any updates to Special Service Message 53966?

Try this post:

I'm looking at replace the stock grille with a black out version but I'm not sure how to remove the old. Does anyone have a resource on how-to for removing the grille? It's for a 2018 SE.

This is correct. I called for my 22 ST and they took my card info. A few weeks later got an invoice and mine arrived shortly after. Waiting for cooler day to install. Call ADDCO

Yes, I did. DTC U023A stored in the ABS and PSCM exactly.

Are you able to read DTCs to see if the DTC listed in the TSB is present? You could go to AutoZone etc. to have codes read and go from there. Does your vehicle meet the manufacturing date criteria in the TSB?

Several months ago, while driving my 2025 Lincoln Nautilus Hybrid under normal driving conditions, multiple fault messages were displayed on the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC), indicating the failure across all Driver Assistance Modules. Upon parking the vehicle, it was observed that both the parking aid sensors and the 360-degree camera system were non-functional. I left the car for a few hours, restarted it, and everything came back to normal. No issues since then. Now I’m wondering—should I still go to the dealer and have them perform the service procedure listed in the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 25-2422? It might take a lot of time and I’m not sure it’s worth it since the system has been stable. Anyone else experienced this? Did you follow the TSB or just monitor the situation? TSB 25-2422 Multiple Driver Assistance Warning Messages Displayed In The IPC With DTC U023A Stored In The PSCM And ABS Module.pdf

I just got my recall letter in the mail today for my 2016 Edge. No parts available yet, so carry on until parts are available, then I'm supposed to get another letter to have me contact my dealer.