Winters are very weak those years. The most recent one was quite normal - as winter should be. Plenty of snow. Yes, they are using salt on the roads but this tendency, as far as i know, is declining heavily. Snow/no snow, salt/no salt is one thing. Zero anti-corrosion protection as per design - is the second thing. After all corrosion is not only about salt. It is happening 24/7.

Wow that is major for sure! Just curious what type of environment you are driving in. Snow/rain etc. If you are driving in snow, do they salt the roads? I live in southern California and have a 2024 St without about 11,000 miles on it. Hope I don't see any rust/corrosion anytime soon. Yes, shame on Ford for neglecting something that is so important to the life of the vehicle.

That is a major undertaking and must cost a fortune in labor and materials but will serve you well for many years.

Hi guys! Hello,   I would like to share my observations about the anti-corrosion protection of our Ford Edge cars. Or more precisely - about the factory lack of this protection. My ST just turned 4 years old. The car is very nice, I like it, there will be no newer generations, Ford doesn't give a damn about cool projects, because what's more important to them is 'diversity BS' and battery-powered Mustangs (hahahah). So, when my ST was 3 years and 9 months old, I decided to give it a proper chassis maintenance. At the beginning, it was supposed to be a thorough cleaning and basic protection (wax for closed profiles, polyutherane for visible surfaces). After washing and drying the chassis and dismantling the covers, it turned out that the Ford Motor Company had practically neglected the topic of anti-corrosion protection! This is a scandal. The joints of the sheet metal elements of the bodywork are not protected against the ingress of water and oxygen - a real invitation to corrosion! There could only be one decision: dismantling the covers, covers, rear suspension, drive, diff, shaft, exhaust, tank. Then comprehensive sandblasting of the entire chassis, application of polyurethane primer, mastic to protect the joints of sheet metal, and then rubber on the chassis and in the wheel arches. Top with hot injected waxes. At the same time, the elements of the rear suspension and the tow hook were sandblasted (rubber elements, threads, etc. protected) and covered with a special varnish. Top it all with a layer of wax. The car was in the service center for 2 months (I wasn't in a hurry). The effect is fantastic and I'm glad I decided to protect this nice car. My main message here is: shame! Shame on FoMoCo for such a scandalous approach to such an important topic as anti-corrosion protection. I can't call it anything other than intentional aging of the product. Take care of your lovely STs!   I'd like to share with you a video report i was given from the guys that were doing all this work. It's in Polish - pls, use YT auto translation - it's working quite nicely.   Cheers.

My Edge is in desperate need of this, can you elaborate on how you did this? From inside with headliner out? Or did you remove the fixed glass panel? Did you just do the front part of the trim/seal or the sides, too, for the tracks?

I got it working.  I also had to change 726-45-01 to xxx-x3xx-xxx.  I ended up using power from the 12 volt outlet in the car.  The cupholder lights come on when the headlights come on.  However, they say on if you then turn the headlights off until you shut off the car.  I also can't dim them or turn them off using the sync screen.  Can you control your cupholder lights from the screen?

Thanks for the tip enigma-2

hi all, I have a 66 plate 2017 ford edge titanium manual 2.0 duratorq   I'm having the what looks to be common hand brake jumper cable issue From looking online the jumpers are H2GZ-14A411-A and H2GZ-14A411-B drivers and passengers I know I need the B version (driver side) but in the uk on ebay amazon etc I can only find the A what I don't understand is its the same cable same plugs on the end same length its just a 2 pin sending an on/off signal can it make that much difference or it it just ford being hard work and they are really the same lol I cant seem to find a wiring diagram for the jumper cable to check if they are or not  if anyone could lend a hand thank you all so much hope you all had a great weekend

From pg. 319 of the 2024 owners manual. "It is recommended that the two front tires or two rear tires generally be replaced as a pair if the worn tires still have usable depth. To avoid potential All-Wheel Drive (AWD) malfunction or (AWD) system damage, it is recommended to replace all four tires rather than mixing significantly worn tires with new tires."

Thread is a little old. My car went from 18's to 20's. 20's look better (a lot better), but, the ride is much harsher.  (Less sidewall.)    I use the quietest and smoothest I could find (actually Michelin's are quieter and smoother, but they only last 20-25k before they get loud and rough), so I now use Pirelli Scorpion's.   So if you move up to 20's, get rims from a reputable dealer and the best tires you can find. Cheap tires are horrible. (From experience. One week and took the back and uograded.)