akirby

You have to be careful with the airbags.

My dad had an orange 1974 AMC Hornet station wagon with an orange plaid interior. That definitely made me queasy........

I believe only certain service provider devices are compatible.

The owner's manual explains it with pretty good detail.

I think the OP meant "question". damned autocorrect......

I believe the original owner could keep the warranty and ask for a prorated refund if they don't transfer it.

That's entirely up to you - get the one you like the best. Fuel economy should not be that much different.

It's usually tuned to the weight of the front clip which is usually different between different engines.

Interesting - that's not how it was advertised. Then again - it's no worse than locking a regular key in the vehicle with the keypad.

I would go with fan also, but it could also be the temp sensor that turns on the fans.

You program the IA keys by inserting the fob in the emergency slot in the console. IF (big IF) the transponder was the same in the regular key and the IA key (which it probably isn't) then theoretically you could put the regular key in the same slot and it would work.

Are you sure it's not something in the console or elsewhere in the car like the spare tire?

Like I said - if you don't mind using the keypad every time you get in or out of the car - it's not a problem. It's not wrong or bad but most people would prefer to keep the key in their pocket or purse and use the touch sensors to lock and unlock the vehicle. I put the key in my pocket in the morning and take it out at night and never touch it other than to unlock my office door at work.

That won't work. When you lock the door with the keypad and a fob inside it totally disables the fob until you unlock it with the keypad or the other key. At least that's the way it was advertised - I haven't tried it myself.

I know but you could also do the same thing with a regular key - leave it in the ignition and just use the keypad all the time. It totally defeats the purpose of IA.

Like I said in the other thread I have never heard of pads lasting 100K unless it's 95% highway miles. Most last 50K-60K and the rears are now wearing out before the fronts.

100K? For brake pads? Only if you're doing 90% highway. Most pads only last 60K or so under normal driving and sometimes as little as 30K - depends on how you're driving. 100K is rare.

That works fine as long as you don't mind using the keypad all the time.

It's the tires. They're not winter compound and they're too wide for snow. And you most certainly can turn off traction control. Assuming you have a 2011 and not a 2001, this is what the owners manual says: The AdvanceTrac with RSC system includes a traction control off selection located in the message center,

70K miles is a long time for brake pads unless they're all highway miles.

At least they're trying.

Hopefully you'll get a district rep involved. I don't think that Ford is necessarily ignoring this issue on purpose - I think it's just really hard to figure out what's causing it and how to fix it. One suggestion for the service dept. is to measure the current draw when your vehicle is off versus another similar vehicle. If your current draw is much higher then that points to a definite defect. Finding the source is another issue but if nothing else that should allow you to document the defect for lemon law purposes.

Procedure is in the owner's manual.

I think you can leave a programmed FOB in the vehicle and use the other FOB (or the keypad) to lock and unlock the vehicle. I think that should let you unlock the vehicle with the keypad (and no other fob) and use the fob in the vehicle to start it if you lose the regular fob. You'd have to test it though to be safe - the manual may not be 100% accurate. I don't know if a regular transponder key will work or if you'll need an IA fob.

If you don't have the right equipment to measure it, you should probably take it to an alignment shop.