druck52

You seem like a smart guy. and you say you work for a brake supplier in R&D, so tell me. How do you not know what an On the car brake lathe is. Do you really think you turn the rotor with the wheel on? You remove the wheel, but leave the rotor in place. the machine is then bolted to the hub and turns the hub. you then zero the runout and machine the rotor. This will take out all runout and you will not have an issue with a brake vibration. Just for your info, this is the only way ford recommends rotors to be machined. I can not say whether or not all dealerships do it this way, but this is the correct way. You would think someone that works for R&D department for a brake pad manufacturer would know about this. But just for you here is a link to one maker of on the car brake lathes http://www.procutinternational.com/lathes.aspx Also for you previous post about the pad not returning and "maching" the rotor. You say the only way to fix this is you replace the pads and rotors. This will fix the problem, but not the cause. You say to check the slides and this is something that could cause that problem, a sticking slide will cause the pad to not return, but it will also cause premature brake pad wear. their is another thing that will cause this, if the piston is sticking in the caliper, this will cause the same problem, again this will cause premature brake wear. The only way to fix that is to rebuild or replace the caliper. Just out of curiousity, what do you do in the R&D facillity. If you are wondering I work at a ford dealership.

If you machine the rotors on the vehicle there will not be runnout. This is the correct way to machine the rotors as it machines them true to the hub. also if he feels the vibration only when braking the rotor is indeed warped. it may have been cause by whay you are saying, or it may have been cause by excess heat. but to say the only way to fix it is to replace the rotors is wrong.

just so you know, if you read up the page some it says they were sold already.

I thought about that too, but if meant 6000 and there is still a problem then it would be covered under warrenty, this is why I assume that he was correct in saying 60,000 miles.

I hope you don't take this the wrong way. First if you had the same problem after you had it att he dealership when it was new, why did you not take it back in to be looked at again or take it to another dealership. Second bad wheel bearings will not last 60,000 miles, it would have gone bad much sooner. To me it sounds like the dealer is correct in that they are not related, and also that you should pay for the repair. Sorry if you don't agree with me.

Are you sure that its road noise from the tires and not a bad wheel bearing? If you are sure its the tires, the only way to get rid of the noise is to replace the tires. I have the michelin tires on mine in the same size and really like them.

Seems like this bully and troll was right about the throttle body being bad. Just glad that she got the problem fixed.

Well I hope that you don't have any problems with it. I would think that after 700 miles they should have been able to duplicate the concern.

If he wasn't one here giving out so much wrong info I wouldn't bother with him, But most of what he writes is just wrong. I come on and help when i can. If you want to call me a bully or troll thats fine. But I have been on here for a long time. Also i wan't following him, incase you didn't notice i did post advice on the topic.

Do you know what it was reaquired for? It should have had all concerns fixed before it was resold, so hopefully you don't have any other problems

Just curious, since you have the repair manual and any moron and fix a car, how would you go about fixing this concern. Do you also have an IDS, you must, since you have it all and know it all.

Sounds like it could be the Electronic Throttle Body, but without seeing the car and checking it out myselft, that is just a guess.

Maybe you should check your info to make sure it is correct and up to date before posting.

The repair info and the parts info are completely differnt. the shop manual gives you the base part number, not the whole part number. and the base number is the same for shocks, or sway bars. But if you don't want to believe me, thats fine, beleive what you want. And good luck repairing your own car, since any "Moron" can do it, I guess it shouldn't any problem for you!

You have a ford parts catalog? How did you get that, I don't believe that for a second. But you can believe what you want.

That is probably the engineering id number, not the same as a part number. however a good parts guy should have been able to cross that number over. There is still a chance though that the part is not serviced seperate from the rail.

And were are you looking for these parts? a Ford dealership or online? I don't have a parts catalog in front of me, but if they list a sport suspension package, then you can bet there is different parts listed. It could even just be a thicker sway bar, it does not have to be struts or coils.

The design might be the same, but the parts are not.

Those might be thew "basic" number, but like i said, those are not the full part number.

That is not correct. There is a sport suspension package.

Thats because those numbers you have listened are not ford part numbers. I don't know where those numbers came from.

Nope, its not there.

Did your car come equiped wqith the sirius radio? it sound be activated already when you get the car. If it is equiped then you might need to take it in to the dealer for further diag.

A missing cover bolt will not cause a noise, unless the diff lost all of its fluid, but a missing bolt is not going to cause you to loose all your fluid.

Have you tried a new bulb? it may just be bad. There are 2 filaments in the bulb, one for the brakes, one for the tail lights.