druck52

I just looked and there is a new TSB 09-8-10 that was issued april 17th. It has 2 new part numbers for seal replacement depending on weather the ptu is leaking or the transmission is leaking. There is also a new service procedure. So hopefully this will fix the leak problems.

I don't think that any DEALERSHIP will try and deny the claim. And the can not, there is a TSB for this known concern. Wheels would not cause it.

Save yourself the trouble and leave them on. It will not void your warranty and will not give you any problems with an oil leak.

Thank you. I try and help when I can. It can be driven, but I would not drive far and be very careful. The best advise would be not to drive it if possible as it is possible for the wheel to come off if the bearing completely fails.

It sounds like a bad wheel bearing.

He has had inspected and they did not find any sticking calipers, and plenty of pad material left. While I agree with taking it to the dealership most times as i work at one. I do not see a reason to if it is infact the pads. If he trusts his mechanic why spend the extra time and money to take it to the dealership for the same diagnosis.

Just so you know. Brake pads are only covered for 12 months or 18,000 miles. So he is probably correct that the pads would not be covered.

Try and lube the door latch.

While I can't say what went wrong, I can tell you this. Just because people have complained of a porblem on the internet does not mean the dealership has heard of the problem or seen the problem before. Your talking about 17 people across world having a problem and you expect 1 dealership to have seen this issue. Taking it to another dealership still may be a good idea. You may need to leave it with them for awhile though to try and duplicate the problem.

Lubed the latch. Its a fairly common problem.

The system helps pull gases out of the crack case, not just letting them vent. This can actually help keep sludge from building up. If you are building an all out performance engine, then you would not want it. but for anything that you drive on the street, there is no reason to not have it.

The PCV tube is there for more than just emission's. There are many benifits from having it, and taking it off provides nothing. As for the oily residue, The car is new and is it possible it is the dressing that dealership put on to make everything look shinny? He should take the car in to the dealership to be looked at. There is no way we can diag it over the internet.

They did change them in 09. I haven't tried one out yet thought to see if they work better or not.

You probably need to have the resonator put back in. moving the muffler will not help.

Just curious. how did you like Sanderson Ford. I used to be a tech there, but moved to California. I worked there for over 5 years.

I don't know if it will work or if they have tried it, but I have a suggestion. I think they need to upload the info to the IDS from another like vehicle that has nav and sync, then download it to your car. That will prgramm the audio module as if it was in the other car. Its worth a try. Thats what I would do. I had to do that to my car to get the nav to communicate with other modules when I upgraded to the Nav, but I do not have sync. Hope that helps.

I believe that there is a TSB for that. I think it is for the front cv axles. But without looking it up I'm not 100% sure of that.

No problem.

If you have some WD-40 around, try spraying it on the latches like I said. I think that will fix it and save you a trip to the dealership.

Is it a rattle, or more of a creaking noise. Try spraying some WD-40 into the latch mechanism on the door and see if that helps. Do all the doors. If its a creaking noise that may help, if its a rattle it may not. Either way its worth a try.

If they already had sync, which they did and the radio is compatible with sync then no wiring is involved. I still think programming is in order. Same goes for you. If you had sync already then the dealer is wrong. No wiring should be involved.

Well I guess in the end, the Tech saw exactly what I was talking about. It was rust build up on the rotors. A few hard stops may get rid of it. There was one more option like I had said. He could have deglazed the rotors(basically sand them). That would have gotten rid of the rust and does not involve removing any material. That is what I would have done, and I would have had it charged back to the new car department, as ford would not pay that as a warranty claim.

I'm glad they were able to. All I know that some you can, some you can't. I don't know why or which ones work and don't work though. Do you have the auto lights? I wonder if that is the difference.

I think the dealer is your only option. I have a feeling that you need to have the nav programmed to your car, not just pre-programmed.

Ky Bob, your service manager is correct. Some can be turned on, I know I can do it on mine which is an SEL. We tried to do it on a customers car on time and it was not an option. I think his was an SE but I don't remember. If you have an SE I would not get my hopes up, however it is deffently worth a try.