fishx65

I know exactly what that is, what the heck is that thing??? Did you follow the lines to see were they go?

I did get them seated correctly (even got that little nub lined up with piston groove!!) and did my standard test ride with about 5-7 hard stops. I thought they would quiet down after a break in period but I've now got about 600 miles on them. It actually sounds kinda cool but I wouldn't be to upset if they were nice and quiet. Mac, you didn't notice any extra noise when you drove yours without that one low frequency dampener?? Is your hearing still pretty good after spending so much time in that noisy garage I see in your videos???

Went with Wagner Thermos all around, new front rotors and had the back rotors turned. New brakes are perfect but just before I come to a complete stop they sound like a 747 landing. It's definitely rear pad on rotor noise but I've never had Thermos sound like this. Only thing I can think of is that I didn't get the low frequency dampeners tight enough. Anyone ever have a similar experience????

I gotta say this is a pretty sweet inexpensive fix for those suffering from this. Apparently some on here are smarter then Ford's engineers!!!!!

Definitely to kill engine noise and the 2010 and below can really use it. I actually did an insurance claim a few months ago cuz the mice ate mine along with the underhood insulation.

I say add a 6 inch suspension lift, trim the wheel wells a little and go for it!!!!!!

Not sure why but my Edge now sounds like a 747 coming to a stop after the new brake job. I used Wagner Thermos all around and Wearever rotors up front. Not a huge deal but I've always used Thermos and never heard brakes sound like this before. I can only hear it just as I'm coming to a complete stop.

My dealer handed me a new one for my 2011 when it was still under warranty a few years ago but I have not put it on yet. It's kinda sad that the part Ford uses to advertise their name brand is a piece of corroding junk. I'll take a better look at the old emblem when I swap it out to see if there's any way to prevent these from peeling and corroding.

Go sit in the corner and hang your head in shame!!!!! The 2016 MKX's are really nice!!!!!

I don't have the key problem but I do get the dinging problem from time to time in my 11 SEL. Very random so not to worried about it.

I put a film of caliper grease on the slides and ears because it's the way I've always done it. I almost wonder if greasing the slides is a good idea because of the sand and dirt attraction factor. It wouldn't take much time to clean them up once per year so I'll probably just make that my game plan.

Did you guys notice any strange wear on your front pads when you changed them? I just did mine today and the inside pads on the fronts were almost gone but the outsides were OK. The drivers side outer pad looked brand new. Thought it was kinda strange because nothing was seized when I disassembled them and the pistons went in just fine. I ended up having the rear rotors turned but went with new ones up front. Mac, thanks again for the info on how to remove the rear sound dampeners cuz it probably saved me some stripped bolts.

Another great vid Mac and great job figuring out the problem!!!! I also just watched your rear brake vid and it really helped me get prepared for doing the rear brakes on my 2011 next week. I've done brakes on all my vehicles for years but never had to deal with the screw in pistons on the rear calipers. Gonna be a heck of a lot easier then dealing with the drum style parking brakes!!!!!!!

I once had a set of Firestone Turenza's balanced 3 or 4 times before the shop figured out that 3 of the tires were out of round. In your case, I would assume they've already checked for this.

115,000 on the original brakes sounds amazing. Did you just steer around everything and never use the brake pedal??? Factory brakes are still kickin on my 2011 but I'm gonna change them out in the spring even if they still have a decent amount of pad left. Road salt does bad things to brakes but I'm hoping to get away with just pads and rotors.

Search Ford Edge door panel removal on youtube. There's a couple vids on there that should help. The Rockfords you ordered should sound just fine and about a billion times better then the factory toys.

Good to see ya back Dingo!!! If I remember correctly, you used to run DDM hids in your Edge. How do you feel these compare to a 35 or 55/5000 set of Hids???? I'm still running the same 35/5000 DDM kit I installed 4 years ago.

My best guess would be a broken part from a golf cart or ATV primary clutch. Probably nothing to do with your Edge.

I've had a 35/5000 DDM kit in my 2011 Edge for 4 years now. Other then 1 bad ballast that they replaced under the lifetime warranty they have been perfect. Nice thing about going with a 35 watt kit is that you can run it as a true Plug-N-Play without wiring in a harness. I did build a harness for mine. A good 35 watt kit installed properly is way way brighter then the stock bulbs and the beam pattern stays about the same. Still the best mod I've ever done to the old Edge!!!

Been watching this thread over on Hidplanet: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/leds/64558-testing-the-cn360-h4-led-headlight-bulb-philips-x-treme-ultinon-copy

Just curious, How many miles did you get out of your stock tires? Michelin Latitudes 18" 245/60/18 2011 SEL FWD. Just changed them out at 61,000 and could have pushed it to about 70,000. I'm about 70/30 city/highway..

I just had my YK580's installed a few days ago (2011 SEL). Stock Latitudes had 61,000 on them and were probably good for another 10,000 if I wanted to stretch it. Ride seems a little softer so far and they are nice and quite on the highway. Headed up north for a month of bow hunting tomorrow so I'm sure I'll get to test these out in the mud, rain, ice and snow. I rotate religiously at 7,000 so maybe I can reach the 60 grand mark before having to replace these.

Pretty much any aftermarket replacement speakers are gonna sound a ton better then Fords plastic garbage. Like Carguy said, make sure the sensitivity is 90+ and you will be a happy camper.

To me, the pics with the bug guard effect look a little smoother. On the 2010 and below I think I would stick with chrome or do a body color match.

I've always had the best luck with Z-2 when it comes to winter protection but this year I'm trying the Duragloss 601/111 combo. Last year I went with DG 601/105 topped with Collinite 845 and was not thrilled with the durability compared to the Z. I'm in a nasty salt belt.