EDST777

Hi. I plan to independently replace the pump or water pump, who better like the name. Now YouTube gives a lot of video on Ford EDGE, Exploer, Flex and I've looked through all the stages, it's possible to do it slowly on my own in two, three days, as I think, but I have some questions, ask your help experienced colleagues, any thoughts, so: - everywhere it is indicated that it is necessary to fix distribution shafts with a special tool 303-1248, but this is very expensive for us, the cost of the tool reaches $300. At the same time, I have repeatedly observed that some people have replaced the pump without the 303-1248 tool and this is logical,... because when replacing the pump, you can use the marks on the main chain, the crankshaft sprocket mark and the marks on the VCT assembly. I will not remove two auxiliary small chains, I will not twist and therefore the position of the camshafts will not change, I can think that I will do the same without a special tool 303-1248, before removing the main chain, turning the gas distribution mechanism clockwise to the desired position (to) marks? What are your thoughts, what is the function of the tool 303-1248 in this case, my thoughts that it is not necessary here, what are my risks of working without the tool, I hope the meaning of my questions is clear, I apologize for my English.

thus, the pulley is installed in any position relative to the crankshaft, as far as it will go to the seat?

Hi, after measuring with a pyrometer, the temperature difference is 8-9 degrees Celsius, I think for now, leave everything as it is. This method of analyzing damage to the pump supply pipe is based on an indirect judgment of the contamination of the interior heater radiator, they carry out a correlation: if the interior radiator is contaminated, the pipe will also be damaged, please comment on this. That is, this is not an entirely obvious method, for example, the stove may contain a small amount of precipitation, sludge, and the tube will be quite working, because its diameter is much larger. Am I right or wrong? Any thoughts please ....

Hi, I've got a bug when I'm diagnosed with a B1342-20 scanner, and there's no other bugs or messages, so it's okay. What can this mistake say? Is this a front passenger clasification error or something? Any thoughts please...

Thanks for the explanation, I will measure the temperature difference.

Thank you for your information. It is as always, very valuable and full, it helps in the highest degree. Thank you for your help, I did a double wash with a special agent like Kuhler-Reiniger 0.3l LIQUI MOLY and then I washed eight times with distilled water, but I did not change "the water pump inlet tube," it requires removal of the inlet path, which can take a whole day, besides I am not sure that now for me Is this recommendation made due to the fact that for many this pipe is heated and begins to flow? Do I get it right? Thank you, any thoughts you have... p.s.: I want to understand why I need to replace the tube, now I have studied the manual and the Internet resources, they say that this tube is metal. So its damage is difficult, rather as I read on some reports owners there is wear of silicone seals at the beginning and end of the tube, these seals are orange in color in the photo. I read that the owners are limited to replacing silicone o-rings. If you have other information or have other thoughts please share them here in this post, I would be very grateful to everyone. Replace the rings it is more economical and accessible to me than the whole tube. Once again, any thoughts you may have on all of the issues outlined above. Thank you.

Thank you for your information. It is as always, very valuable and full, it helps in the highest degree. I finished the replacement yesterday, it took me two times 6-7 hours. I do not have very convenient conditions for replacement, this increases the process, but in any case there is a waiting time for the engine to work and this cannot be shortened. This is a rather tedious process, because it is stretched in time and requires multiple discharge filling of the washing solution and further distilled water for repeated washing. I did washing twice and after that I made a water change eight times since half always stays in the engine. At the end, I got a clean water, almost odorless, with a minimum of sludge, but all the time a small amount of sand and sediments came out. At the end, I added 5 liters of concentrate, which poured into the expansion tank, started the engine and they mixed with six liters of water that remained inside. Total my mixed solution is now 11 liters. Now my concentration of coolant solution is 45 VC10A2: 55 water. Later, I plan to increase the concentration to 50:50. Perhaps my post will be useful for those who independently decide to make a replacement. My thoughts are that when replaced by a device in specialized services there will be no such effect, because sludge, precipitation, sand are collected at the bottom of the radiator and they cannot be removed from the system. If you make a replacement through a plug from below the radiator, then all the contaminants merge by gravity, but this is very long, the choice of the replacement method is yours. This is one of the ways).

Hi. Today I tried to change cooling liquid from VC-7-B Gold for Green VC-10-A2. There was a problem by unscrewing a plastic plug at the bottom of the radiator cooling the glass liquid into the tray, but its volume turned out to be about 6 liters. I did six times washing with distilled water (6 * 6 liters of distilled water). I have a question: why I can not drain 11 liters, as indicated in the manual, liquid remains in the system. Any thoughts. P.s: Now I poured distilled water till morning to continue the replacement. Why is only 6 liters of cooling liquid drained from 11 at a time? Can I start the engine briefly for a few seconds to drain the remaining cooling liquid from the cylinder blocks jacket? I think the remaining 4 liters are in the engine between the pump and the thermostat and therefore there is this problem that they need to be removed either to start the engine or to use the replacement device in a special service, but this service is not everywhere.I think that more often the dealer (this I read in neighboring topics) makes a replacement twice, it looks like a way to partially replace. And there's a problem pouring concentrate, if I don't get the 4 remaining liters, then to get a 50/50 mixture I need to mix 5.5 liters of concentrate with 1.5 liters of distilled water, because 4 liters are in the engine. Who will support my thoughts?) Any thoughts you have...

hi, what did you mean when you said necessary, are there other bolts?)

Hi, someone knows where you can take the procedure for replacing the water pump, I am interested in the part of installing and removing the chains of extenders..., I want to try to do it on my own, in any case I would like to understand exactly how to install and remove the chains. From the Youtube video, I realized that a replacement can be done without a special tool to hold the camshafts if I replace only the water pump. Is that so? Thanks.

Hi, you dealt with the problem: sometimes after slowing down further - push at rapid sharp acceleration, that is, pressing the accelerator pedal?

Hi. Now we have a summer and hot, temperature three weeks in the afternoon of 30-35 degrees Celsius. The last week the problem, this tick, freon gurgling is possible and clicking from under the dashboard around buttons climate of control, behind the audio system appeared. As soon as I turn the ignition key in provision 3, without starting the engine, I begin to hear tick and clicks. I heard it earlier, but periodically. Perhaps it is connected with work of a system climate of control because the problem appeared during a heat, and I use sometimes the conditioner. Somewhere I met information that the fan of the sensor of temperature of a climatic system can be a problem, it is possible? Any your thoughts. Thanks. P.S. I think, here https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24192-2015-20-gurgling-ac-on-passenger-side/?tab=comments#comment-184282 the situation similar to mine is described.

Ок, It is valuable information for me, means pads have limit and they can be regulated only at size of torsion of sprocket. I have spare pads and I will try to replace them. I will inform you. Thanks.

not! But is much in public information on the Internet where it is specified that Ford zincs details of explorer, mustang, fucus,fiesta,escape,escort,c-max,ecosport,ka,mondeo,sierra,s-max,taurus,fusion, galaxy, maverick, fiesta, transit, gt, expedition. There are many models till 2019, but there is no edge. Possibly it so, but is strange that precisely nobody knows it. It is strange that have saved on Edge when for example escape zinc.

Thanks for the clear and full answer, it just the fact that I wished to know before works, but then appears the following question: when using abrasive material (sand, Scotch-Brite) the zinc layer will be perhaps removed (if it there in general is present). It turns out about it it is not necessary worries? Or sand has to work so to try not to damage a zinc layer? As I understand, most of people who render such services, at preparatory work for painting of elements of the car out of the avtmobilny enterprise does not use restoration of a zinc layer on those elements where it was removed at abrasive processing and especially do not worry about it because at the correct repair of problems should not be even if zinc will be removed. I am right in the thoughts?

Thanks. Thus you think that details (fender, doors) are not galvanized from automobile works? In network there is a lot of information that the majority of the Ford models have hot galvanization of all details, there are a lot of models, but among them I did not find Ford EDGE of the first and second generation. It is very strange and it is not clear therefore I ask this question. Thanks.

Hi, I would like to paint chips (small damages of paint and varnish coating) which are on my car, but I would like to know the car body is galvanized, it was done? I did not find such information. Somebody can answer me? Also I am interested in experience of people who made painting of details, thanks for any thoughts.

Hi. As I already wrote my rear brake plates in other subject have 160,000 km, and I think of their replacement. But after all I use them. My question concerns the maximum setup of the parking brake whether there is control limit more precisely? I know that the parking brake is adjusted rotation of sprocket, this rotation will press parking pad to disk. To what state it is possible to twist this sprocket, there is restriction after which limit pad of rear parking brake needs to be changed? My feelings, I rotate sprocket is greatest possible, but rear parking brakes poorly hold the car. I hope clear have told about problem. I want to learn whether there is limit of clip of rear parking brake after which control by rotation will not work? Thus I would like to learn how it is long possible to adjust back parking brakes that they worked for 100%? It depends on opportunities of adjustment of an asterisk or it will be possible until the back block of the parking brake is erased? Thanks.

Ok, thanks, I will put tension of the generator for testing and to observe its output voltage! As for cleaning of a fuel system, I do it not often: I fill in in an empty tank of additive for cleaning of a fuel Hi- Gear Jet Plus or Techron. But I do it not regularly, once in two months on 78 liters of gasoline. Did you mean it when you spoke about cleaning start? I washed out a butterfly valve in the fall, then I found malfunction of the adjusting screw of a butterfly valve, about it I did a subject at this forum, I stuck together this adjusting screw, it functions still, I do not think that it influences this process though I would be glad will be convinced of it once again. I would be glad to make comparison of the Forscan parameters of my butterfly valve and other not damaged. It is possible? To be sure that the restored butterfly valve works correctly. I did not perform other cleaning works.

thanks, very useful information. I am concerned by operation of the generator under loading, it means that when I gradually connect consumers of the electric power: the oven, brushes of windshield, radio, heating of mirrors, heating of seats, I begin to feel easy vibration on steering wheel from the generator. Therefore I would like to understand normally it, or such work is connected with some reason, for example with slackening of tensioner of belt or with the increased generator belt.

thanks, what main signs of exit of tensioner of belt? I know from the forum tensioner there live about 250,000 miles?

I would like to know how this part is reliable and whether there are problems with pulley? Whether there is such experience!? Thanks

the pulley means changes only with the generator?

Hi. On my car already 160,000 km. My question concerns replacement of pulley of the generator, somebody made such replacement? What resource of this part? Thanks.

Hi. On my car already 160,000 km. After winter I have inspected the rear and front rotors. I have replaced front rotors and pads with 120,000 km and they as it should be. But my rear rotors, they are worn-out approximately on 0.7 mm from each party of rotor. Last year I have replaced rear brake shoes, but I did not change rotors and now thickness of rotor about 17 mm. When to change my rear rotors or it is still quite normal? Any thoughts. Thanks!