EDST777

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Hi, firends. A year ago I replaced TSS and OSS sensors (what you would know) on the EDGE 2008 (144 000 km), everything wasn't bad. There passed year. Can be to me it seemed, but three days in a row at me of a thought that at dispersal around the city on the car weak acceleration, dynamics which was before worsened. At the same time turns of a tachometer respond normally when pressing an accelerator pedal. There are no mistakes on the display. The computer through ODB didn't connect yet, I will make it tomorrow. I changed oil in an automatic box a year ago, oil pure. The last three months I go around the city with the disconnected O/D, т.к I have available frequent dispersals and stops, I made it to keep an automatic box. Your thoughts whether is my fears (which need to be checked still) on bad dynamics of acceleration, I replaced with some common problem (disease) similar to the bad TSS/OSS sensor which I will repeat a year ago. Maybe specify similar subjects at a forum because I couldn't find search similar at a forum, probably I don't know key phrases of this problem on English. Thanks for any thoughts. P.s.: What you would understand... reduction of my dynamics of acceleration (as now it seems to me), it dropped percent by 20-30 percent and if to go not dynamically, then it is hardly noticeable. It is well noticeable, in case of more dynamic acceleration. Perhaps I need to check pressure in the tires LOL. Your thoughts friends: the worn-out catalytic agent, the bad mass air flow sensor, candle wires, candle (by the way I replaced candle when my run was 90 000 km)?

some time ago, when I reached 118228 kilometers, I so asked questions here how to replace liquid in transmission. Then I wanted to make full replacement, the same method, but I couldn't remove hoses and plastic clip-on earrings, it seemed complex work for all who was near, there are no such cars here and to receive the help difficult, also difficult to find spare parts. Having considered and having got support at this forum, I made all works as method of partial replacement three times (especially I filled in unknown liquid of yellow color from the USA, and I shipped for priming of ATF Valvoline MaxLife, red color). Further on 136800 km I steles one more partial replacement. It seems to me, now, it more simply and not less effectively to do it through 20 000-25000 km. But also your mode as alternative good, but more responsible and difficult. Thank you for a photo, it is very important for those who will want to make replacement thus. It would be remarkable to see video how to remove plastic clip-on earrings).

I think that for those who want to reuse a rear rotor it is better to strike blows to the places specified by red shooters.

Hello. There was video where it is possible to learn how to remove a rear rotor. A secret is revealed. Thanks to the author. To look about 2:53 minutes.

Yes, it is interesting to learn..., and what has to be solvent? I change oil every year in PTU, in a year it strongly darkens, but nevertheless it liquid and looks much better than when I have made it the first time three years ago). So far I have found only such solution for myself. Cheap but good!)

o'k. thanks, from this is clear that after all, it is better to make check of adjustment of tires on winter wheels, it will give the chance to estimate their condition. If I have correctly understood, then most of readers has no shift problem in the right for 1-2 degrees of a steering wheel? For me it was important to understand: if control of a running suspension bracket ford EDGE such what pulls the car a little to the right, respectively at the same time has to be not much displaced the steering wheel (is turned) to the right? or the steering wheel at the same time has to stand exactly (without shift)? Thanks.

Thanks. Now I precisely understood that EDGE slightly pulls in the right for safety and it is correct. About tires: in the summer I use Nokian Hakka Z SUV 245/60 R18. I operate the second season. The general run on summer tires of 10 000 kilometers. Excellent state. I use NokianHKPL SUV5 245/50 R20 106T XL in the winter. This year the fifth season of operation of winter tires began. All tires in an excellent state, the general run on winter tires of 20 000 kilometers. When wheels are exposed directly (at advance on the road), the steering wheel has a deviation in 1-2 degrees in the right. After I shipped the car I didn't do adjustment of tires never, therefore - that there was no occasion (or I didn't draw close attention to a deviation of a steering wheel on 1 - 2 degree on winter tires). On summer tires everything was good. Whether now after summer tires I thought again it is necessary to do me adjustment of tires or it is normal process because of softer tires?

Thanks. I apologize if the translation isn't clear to someone.

somebody.

Hello. I also want to ask a question in this topic. After replacement of summer wheels by winter I find out what pulls the car slightly in the right and still..... if to go directly the spoke of a wheel isn't parallel to the earth and is located under not a big corner (about 2-3 degrees). When are established summer (more rigid tires) this effect is almost absent. Question my such: I heard that it is present at Ford how the normal phenomenon, that is pulls the car in the right, or it isn't correct? Whether to do me a camber a convergence of wheels? also I want to learn about the provision of a wheel, someone has still such problem - that is the wheel at the movement on a straight line is displaced by 2-3 degrees?

Whether it is possible to make it independently through ForScan? Whether it is necessary to update insertions if there are no obvious problems, for example the nomy insertion optimizes something?

Hi! Whether I would like to learn somebody had such symptoms as in my case to define possible malfunction. My problem in the following: at a set of speed with 20 km/h till 30-40 km/h ( perhaps when switching transfer with the first on the second or with the third on the fourth) there is a kick (not ringing, once). It seems to me around PTU, but there is no key shining and mistakes on a board. Farther I go in the normal mode. In a week I observed it three or four times. My suspicions on problems of PTU or it is a problem of the automatic transmission which after replacement of oil began to be shown ? How you think that it can be? Thanks. P.S.:I read about a cutting problem ax - slits between the automatic transmission and PTU, about a problem of destruction of hypoid transfer to PTU if it so, it can be shown thus, someone heard about such behavior? What my actions? I need to go and wait for malfunction to be shown more considerably so far? Thanks.

Hi. Friends, probably at someone it happens. I wrote here already several posts about the replacements of TSS OSS ATF sensors of oil to PTU and RDU. I work on reduction of a consumption of gasoline, but there was one more problem to which I pay attention now. Tell what I have to be ready to what my fears? Here in what a problem: a month ago I replace the OSS sensor - well, further I replaced 5 liters of ATF - well (a week ago), further I replaced oil on 0w-20 PetroCanada (a week ago), further I replaced oil in PTU (Castrol 75w-140 SAF-X SAE 75W-140 API GL-5/6 Scania STO 1:0 ZF TE-ML 05D/12D/16G) - a week ago. My problem in the following: at a set of speed with 20 km/h till 30-40 km/h there is a kick (not ringing, once). It seems to me around PTU, but there is no key shining and mistakes on a board. Farther I go in the normal mode. In a week I observed it three or four times. My suspicions on problems of PTU or it is a problem of the automatic transmission which after replacement of oil began to be shown ? How you think that it can be? Thanks.

I have in detail specified in this post http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7816-rear-brake-rotor/?p=137612 of people how it is necessary to remove back rotor on Ford EDGE 1 gen, I attach the image to check correctly I understand what is offered? P.S.: also I want to specify, back rotors how freely have to rotate? (with the wrung-out emergency brake). Disturbs me that I put quite strong effort to shift a rotor and to rotate it hands. At the same time the flat wheel with teeth doesn't hold apart a block. This normal state? or it is a problem of the basic bearing? I will upload video where it is visible as it occurs.

Hi, I tried to remove back rotors today using the general information which I found here, but just it didn't turn out, the rotor wasn't removed though I regulated a flat wheel with teeths and to remove a tension of the emergency blocks. Now I want to try to take advice to make a stripper from металлическог a corner 16". Look at my image , I correctly understood principle of work of what I will need to make? I don't want anything to damage therefore I ask a question. P.S.: also I want to specify, back rotors how freely have to rotate? (with the wrung-out emergency brake). Disturbs me that I put quite strong effort to shift a rotor and to rotate it hands. At the same time the flat wheel with teeth doesn't hold apart a block. This normal state? or it is a prolema of the basic bearing? I will upload video where it is visible as it occurs.

You have made adjustment?

Thanks, I after all have found the first place (Parking Brake Control) of adjustment, here it looks absolutely clear:

it will be very interesting because I shall do the same (painting and cleaning). I had no problems with balancing, but in my climate two times a year do change of tires. When I shipped EDGE, in the first fall people strongly were surprised how to make to make replacement of tires without having damaged plasticity. there I made the decision to tear off decorative plastic. It was not simply, I had no information as to do it also what it is pasted by. We tore off carefully, wishing to keep plastic for an hour, it is almost ideal). But under plastic I found the aluminum which is also spoiled by corrosion.

I also removed when changed tires why you removed? There were some defects of plastic? I am interested in a question as other people, repair wheels, I think plastic interferes with it to works?!) In a management it is told that there is a special spray which shall dissolve silicone, but I didn't hear that someone would speak about it and used it?!) P.S.:it would be desirable to learn where there is a lifelong fuel filter, there it is possible?)

somebody..., after all where it is located? p.s.: post 18 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12296-brake-shoeemergency-brakereplacement/?do=findComment&comment=155737 ... so, I have found a part of the answer here : http://www.justanswer.com/ford/4okmk-ford-edge-limited-remove-rear-rotors-08.html Expert: Tim Mohr replied 5 years ago. Hi, my name is XXXXX XXXXX is nothing holding the rear rotors on, after the caliper has been removed, now inside the rotors on the back is the emergency brake shoes, and the rotor can hang up on these, that is what the rubber plug is for, remove the plug and rotate the rotor so you can see the star wheel on the ebrake adjuster, then back off the adjuster with a screwdriver, and the rotors will come off,Tim ... where have in detail explained why a wheel with a star , how I understand to hold a back rotor on the place, but I still don't know whether these can only regulate force of pressing of the emergency brake to a rotor or it is necessary to regulate a cable tension?. also I am interested in a possibility of adjustment by a wheel with a star, it turns out that when an opportunity to twist a wheel with a star ends, I won't be able to regulate more force of a clip of the emergency brake to a rotor and it is necessary to change a block of the emergency brake?

Thanks, I will observe, after each full tank, however it is strange.... I read that it is synthetics??

Friends as to me to make adjustment, using two locations or one location? Also I regret what nobody has answered about the boozed barrel, its function adjustment?

I have shipped Shevron Havoline 2 - cycle engine oil Tc-W3. How you find it?

Friends, I gather this Saturday, nevertheless to adjust the parking brake. Also I would like to specify something: 1. I have understood that for adjustment there are two places which are specified on images. (An equalizer on the second image) I have studied the second place. I know its arrangement, it is from below (under car), right after PTU towards the center of the car. .... but I do not know where there is the first place (on the first image http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t597/PerfA_ZN0W/Ford%20Edge/2010%20Ford%20Edge%20Parking%20Brake%20Cable%20Adjustment%201_zpshz3qtjme.jpg ). Somebody can specify in what part to me it to look? At a back wheel or at the brake pedal or where? 2. also I would like to specify surely to use in adjustment at the same time two places of regulation or I can regulate only in one place voluntarily (for example only in the place 1, and not to use for adjustment the place 2). Thanks.