EDST777

Hello, I have also now news. Now I have whistle when strongly I press the brake pedal, after the long parking. During driving, so far everything is all right. There is also a hissing when pressing the brake pedal. I want to know that it leads to replacement of Power Brake Booster? Whether it is necessary to replace booster vacuum line jointly?

Friends I tried to ask the question in the next branch for FWD as the comment, but there isn't present a solution, I want to allocate the question in a separate subject in a branch for AWD. I have a problem: in the winter at a set of speed on the road over 50 mph I had a rumble, buzz as it seems to me around PTU. I control the level of oil and replacement of oil in PTU, but I have made oil replacement once again in February for a solution. It hasn't played. The rumble at a speed remained. When driving on the city problems weren't. In the summer I have made survey and have found an oil spot in the place of the transaxle and CV Joint connection, and now I think that the problem can be with overhung bearing transaxle. Now the summer was also done by departure on the road, strange, but now there are no noise and a rumble. It has also confirmed my idea, that overhung bearing demands replacement. In the winter the escaped lubricant created buzz, in the summer perhaps the amount of lubricant is enough what driving would be normal. What your opinion? I would like to receive comments of people who had such problem or know solutions. Also I have an idea to replace overhung bearing separately, without buying transaxle, someone did it? Thanks. Here it is possible to read my post in a subject for FWD with the attached images: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21417-2013-ford-edge-passenger-cv-axle-replacement/?p=187604

Thanks, I have obtained a lot of information which interested me, means on an intermediate axis there are a sealant and lubricant which can flow at sealant violation. In my opinion there are no noise and vibration when driving at different speeds, but I have noticed other features: the car began to twitch at the beginning of driving and it is possible, but not precisely, (I will watch it) it depends on turns, torsion, rotation of a wheel. These twitchings are similar to easy kicks, similar which were that before replacement of OSS and TSS sensors in transmission, but I have replaced these sensors two years ago and problems after replacement weren't. A month ago there were similar problems, but softer symptoms and in my opinion it is connected, possibly, with an oil spot on an axis. My opinion is based that there are no mistakes through ForScan, and also the fact that I have 154 000 km (100 000 miles) and didn't replace this part. What your thoughts, such symptoms can be? How I could check more precisely that easy kicks at the beginning of driving depend on it? Thanks. P.S.: Kicks happen not always, but to some frequency, sometimes, it seems to me especially when changing the direction: for example driving back on R-a full stop - P-D, the beginning of driving forward, is also to steam of easy, soft kicks. Perhaps points to bad lubricant which has flowed out from intermediate axes or the broken vents CV Joint? ...and today I have noticed, really, very seldom, but they have appeared, easy clicks two times when driving when you turn a wheel to the right against the stop and go forward, is what I have managed to observe. Whether there is a sense, to sort and grease CV Joint or it is simpler to replace it at it operating time(154 000 km or 100 000 miles)? I would like to receive the help in selection exact number of an intermediate shaft, their big set and I am afraid to be mistaken at the possible order. To me such numbers met 7T4Z 3A329B 7T4Z3A329BD DT4Z3A329A 8T4Z3A329A 7T4Z3A428D what of them will be a worker of Ford EDGE 3.5 2008 AWD Limited 2FMDK49C08BA19802 for me? May I get a PART number of the right shaft in collecting (for possible reduction in cost of the order, one number, perhaps, that is: intermediate shaft + cv Joint)? Thanks for any thoughts.

Friends, I on a CV axis have questions: 1 Her it is rare where mention, I don't know what it is connected with, it is possible she is seldom damaged. for example in rockauto.com I haven't found her, perhaps I looked for not there. 2. I have found only two people who tell about replacement of a CV axis, including this subject. 3. I had had a sweating on this axis. I will attach the image and I want to learn: - why there was a sweating on a joint of axes? Before him wasn't, lubricant from CV joint comes to light? - what signs of malfunction of a CV axis? May I continue driving or I need to make prevention to prolong service life of this mechanism? or this mechanism can't be repaired and it is only possible to replace? Now I observe a small spot and there is no leak, it is acceptable, but I want to know what my actions further for control of a situation. Thanks.

That is there is no standard, regular device, I just removed this cover. It is similar to a plug, a stub which closes the place for something, for example for the TV/screen. If I correctly understood you, then to this place it is possible to establish anything?! Any, Ford doesn't offer and doesn't assume the list of the standard equipment to this place?

I wasn't correctly understood, I allocated now the place which interests me!)

I welcome a forum. I always wanted to learn as still it is possible to use the place on the front panel which on the attached image? I think this space for the TV display or it not so, can be there are still some additions which can be installed to this place?

I already ordered thanks for yours, as always a valuable advice, new plugs and I wait for them shipment. Double-gasket of an oil filter as it should be, it is established on the place and not displaced, in an installation site is dry and clean, it is an indicator of the correct installation. Thanks for your assumptions. Now I am going to check the oil pressure sensor especially as I saw an old oil spot on the cylinder block around an opening for pressure release of a water pump.

so friends I have unscrewed all three plugs of Bank2, I haven't found anything bad on plugs, there are no soot traces, there are no oil traces, there is no blue color. But that concerns me, it is a gap of plugs, it is much more of fact that it is specified in the guide to service which specifies 1, 61 mm a maximum. My valid size nearly 2 millimeters, at the same time isn't present any problems, the engine works without hindrances, steadily and doesn't shiver. It isn't sure, but these plugs in a new state had a gap more than 1, 61 millimeter. In the management old data are really specified?

Ok.Thanks

Friends, I would like that you checked correctness part-numbers for the order on my a car of 2008 AWD Ford EDGE 3.5 Limited if you have offers on change of my options on better brands, I will be glad to your councils: 1 The AYFS22FM FORD spark plugs (You hold the opinion that the best spark plugs are OEM?). 2 PCV FORD valve Ford EDGE-Explorer 11 2X4Z6A666AA 3 Laying of an intake manifold of MS97120 FEL-PRO

I will observe, but is valid, my claims by that period when the car is long on the parking in a hot sunny weather +30 С and above under direct sunshine. In salon very hot and the kondintsioner especially slowly cools salon. I will observe, but I will repeat, I met cars where even in such hot weather, the kondintsioner very quickly cools salon and is very cold. Possibly it is a premium class and there pumps are more powerful. Thanks.

Yes it is torque wrench, but I haven't absolutely understood about the range of efforts if I have correctly understood you you recommend the tool with a range up to 250 newton for meter?

I would like to lift this subject again in spite of the fact that I change the saloon filter annually, I have quite clean radiator, without down, now when temperature in the sun of +30 degrees Celsius temperature in salon decreases in the afternoon not really quickly. I think of replacement of coolant in the conditioner, but whether there will be an effect of it. It is possible your responses how fast your salon under such circumstances and for what time it becomes cool is cooled. I met cars which in which at a minimum temperature on the display it is possible to freeze, but it isn't in my EDGE, such feeling that there isn't enough cooling power therefore I am visited by such thoughts). There are any recommendations about replacement of coolant on our car, someone did such procedure at himself on the car? Thanks.

To my car 10 years, I think of washing of a heating radiator, it because the oven seems to me not enough creates heat in winter time. Somebody had such problems or carried out replacement of a heating radiator or its washing for more effective work. I know that inevitably for such life there is an adjournment of dirt in a radiator and its efficiency falls. I consider that such large volume of the engine as 3.5 has to create enough heat in salon, but it not and in my winters when temperature of-18 degrees and below warmly not rather comfortably extends on salon. I changed cooling liquid last year. It is corporate Motorcraft. What your opinions on this problem or there can be such subject was, I ask me to direct. Thanks.

Hi, I want to ship a dynamometer key. There is a question at its choice to provide the maximum range of universal application especially on Ford EDGE. I chose a key with a range of Force of 3/8" 19-110 Hm of 365 mm http://force-tools.kz/products/38-klyuch-dinamometricheskij-19-110-hm-365mm whether it will be able to provide my basic needs, thus the moments applied to an inhaling on Ford EDGE generally are in the specified range or are wider? Thanks.

Only VICTOR REINZ VS50490 and KNECHT/MAHLE VS50490 what of these producers to prefer is available to me? Thanks. p.s: I think also to replace the PCV valve, it can't give such problems? or the problem would be on two parts of Bank1 and Bank2?

probably this consolidation in a valve cover DORMAN 097146 {#0971461, 971461, F75Z6734AA} Rubber Gasket; Rubber; Size; M14, 1/2"; Inside Dia: 12.75mm; Outside Dia.: 19.38mm; Thickness: 2.67mm 7T4Z12025A

Thanks, is very valuable information, I study it, I think it is really applicable for me. P.s It is strange to be told about the image plug tube seals there but there are no images. .

Thanks for your professional help. I will check Bank2 plugs, I incline also now to opinion that the problem in Bank2, and most likely with COP because spots of oil are localized around them in Bank2, the second possible cause can be laying of a valvate cover of Bank2. A key for plugs I will take plugs and to investigate them, also I will take COP for studying of a state. But I have no mistakes, it is possible because of weak process of leak. Any your councils are very important for me. Thanks.

Thanks. 1. Coils of spark plugs (COP) and plug I didn't take yet, the last time I did it on 100 000 kilometers when changed plugs . I will make it to look at their state and to understand whether there is a problem there. Thanks. 2. To understand what condition of Bank 1, I will take the probe and I will try to examine them a valve cover which is covered with an intake manifold. Or it is better for me to remove an intake manifold? What your opinion? Especially as I should make it if I need to examine plugs and COP for Bank1. What your opinion? And still, if I don't define a problem at survey of coils, then it will speak about a problem of a valve cover? I try to find the optimum scheme of definition of a problem, and I come to a conclusion that first of all I should check all plugs and COP, I correctly act? I saw errors of the computer, the mistakes relating to this problem it isn't revealed. There is a mistake which arose at removal of the accumulator, there is an audio system error, it because I disconnected a loop of a MP3 changer, is an error of a passenger seat which arises because I lay down a light load sometimes on passenger sitting. That's it. I will attach a log of my file. Thanks. p.s/is attached survey of COP and plugs of BANK1. On video there are no oil spots, externally everything is normal. engDTC18-06-2018.txt eng18-06-2018.txt

also there are no impurity in cooling liquid, it clean, that is oil doesn't get to cooling liquid and vice versa color of oil of the engine says that cooling liquid doesn't get to the engine. Somebody else adds oil to the engine in such portions as I 50-100 grams on 300 - 500 kilometers of a way?

Thanks, the procedure it is detailed!

I saw at someone instead of the deflector the polymeric plastic tape pasted on a cowl, white color 3-4 cm wide (not black) here. I would like to find the same and to learn as it is made.

Friends, I would like to ask a question about an oil consumption. The third year I use Petrocanada 5W-20 oil. Oil and the original filter I change each 8000 kilometers. Good oil, but is one shortcoming: there is an Oil consumption (expense, oil evaporation), that is on each 300 kilometers I add about 50 grams of oil. At a forum on oils, I heard that at given oil there is such shortcoming as Oil consumption(expense, oil evaporation). I want to learn your opinion who else has Oil consumption (expense, oil evaporation), is normal process on the engine 3.5 Duratec? Also has noticed that near spark plugs on a valvate cover of the engine, easy oil spots began to appear recently, it is possible isn't a problem, but I would like to pay your attention to it and to learn your opinion? I will show it on the attached image. Thanks. p.s.: exhaust gases go without impurity, that is there are no traces of a soot and gray smoke, oil clean, without impurity, darkens only in use in process of the development. My style of driving now such that I don't lift engine speed higher than 2500 revolutions per minute , therefore it can't be the cause too. Spark plugs I changed for 100 000 kilometers, 153 000 kilometers now.