EDST777

Thanks. Now I precisely understood that EDGE slightly pulls in the right for safety and it is correct. About tires: in the summer I use Nokian Hakka Z SUV 245/60 R18. I operate the second season. The general run on summer tires of 10 000 kilometers. Excellent state. I use NokianHKPL SUV5 245/50 R20 106T XL in the winter. This year the fifth season of operation of winter tires began. All tires in an excellent state, the general run on winter tires of 20 000 kilometers. When wheels are exposed directly (at advance on the road), the steering wheel has a deviation in 1-2 degrees in the right. After I shipped the car I didn't do adjustment of tires never, therefore - that there was no occasion (or I didn't draw close attention to a deviation of a steering wheel on 1 - 2 degree on winter tires). On summer tires everything was good. Whether now after summer tires I thought again it is necessary to do me adjustment of tires or it is normal process because of softer tires?

Thanks. I apologize if the translation isn't clear to someone.

somebody.

Hello. I also want to ask a question in this topic. After replacement of summer wheels by winter I find out what pulls the car slightly in the right and still..... if to go directly the spoke of a wheel isn't parallel to the earth and is located under not a big corner (about 2-3 degrees). When are established summer (more rigid tires) this effect is almost absent. Question my such: I heard that it is present at Ford how the normal phenomenon, that is pulls the car in the right, or it isn't correct? Whether to do me a camber a convergence of wheels? also I want to learn about the provision of a wheel, someone has still such problem - that is the wheel at the movement on a straight line is displaced by 2-3 degrees?

Whether it is possible to make it independently through ForScan? Whether it is necessary to update insertions if there are no obvious problems, for example the nomy insertion optimizes something?

Hi! Whether I would like to learn somebody had such symptoms as in my case to define possible malfunction. My problem in the following: at a set of speed with 20 km/h till 30-40 km/h ( perhaps when switching transfer with the first on the second or with the third on the fourth) there is a kick (not ringing, once). It seems to me around PTU, but there is no key shining and mistakes on a board. Farther I go in the normal mode. In a week I observed it three or four times. My suspicions on problems of PTU or it is a problem of the automatic transmission which after replacement of oil began to be shown ? How you think that it can be? Thanks. P.S.:I read about a cutting problem ax - slits between the automatic transmission and PTU, about a problem of destruction of hypoid transfer to PTU if it so, it can be shown thus, someone heard about such behavior? What my actions? I need to go and wait for malfunction to be shown more considerably so far? Thanks.

Hi. Friends, probably at someone it happens. I wrote here already several posts about the replacements of TSS OSS ATF sensors of oil to PTU and RDU. I work on reduction of a consumption of gasoline, but there was one more problem to which I pay attention now. Tell what I have to be ready to what my fears? Here in what a problem: a month ago I replace the OSS sensor - well, further I replaced 5 liters of ATF - well (a week ago), further I replaced oil on 0w-20 PetroCanada (a week ago), further I replaced oil in PTU (Castrol 75w-140 SAF-X SAE 75W-140 API GL-5/6 Scania STO 1:0 ZF TE-ML 05D/12D/16G) - a week ago. My problem in the following: at a set of speed with 20 km/h till 30-40 km/h there is a kick (not ringing, once). It seems to me around PTU, but there is no key shining and mistakes on a board. Farther I go in the normal mode. In a week I observed it three or four times. My suspicions on problems of PTU or it is a problem of the automatic transmission which after replacement of oil began to be shown ? How you think that it can be? Thanks.

I have in detail specified in this post http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7816-rear-brake-rotor/?p=137612 of people how it is necessary to remove back rotor on Ford EDGE 1 gen, I attach the image to check correctly I understand what is offered? P.S.: also I want to specify, back rotors how freely have to rotate? (with the wrung-out emergency brake). Disturbs me that I put quite strong effort to shift a rotor and to rotate it hands. At the same time the flat wheel with teeth doesn't hold apart a block. This normal state? or it is a problem of the basic bearing? I will upload video where it is visible as it occurs.

Hi, I tried to remove back rotors today using the general information which I found here, but just it didn't turn out, the rotor wasn't removed though I regulated a flat wheel with teeths and to remove a tension of the emergency blocks. Now I want to try to take advice to make a stripper from металлическог a corner 16". Look at my image , I correctly understood principle of work of what I will need to make? I don't want anything to damage therefore I ask a question. P.S.: also I want to specify, back rotors how freely have to rotate? (with the wrung-out emergency brake). Disturbs me that I put quite strong effort to shift a rotor and to rotate it hands. At the same time the flat wheel with teeth doesn't hold apart a block. This normal state? or it is a prolema of the basic bearing? I will upload video where it is visible as it occurs.

You have made adjustment?

Thanks, I after all have found the first place (Parking Brake Control) of adjustment, here it looks absolutely clear:

it will be very interesting because I shall do the same (painting and cleaning). I had no problems with balancing, but in my climate two times a year do change of tires. When I shipped EDGE, in the first fall people strongly were surprised how to make to make replacement of tires without having damaged plasticity. there I made the decision to tear off decorative plastic. It was not simply, I had no information as to do it also what it is pasted by. We tore off carefully, wishing to keep plastic for an hour, it is almost ideal). But under plastic I found the aluminum which is also spoiled by corrosion.

I also removed when changed tires why you removed? There were some defects of plastic? I am interested in a question as other people, repair wheels, I think plastic interferes with it to works?!) In a management it is told that there is a special spray which shall dissolve silicone, but I didn't hear that someone would speak about it and used it?!) P.S.:it would be desirable to learn where there is a lifelong fuel filter, there it is possible?)

somebody..., after all where it is located? p.s.: post 18 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12296-brake-shoeemergency-brakereplacement/?do=findComment&comment=155737 ... so, I have found a part of the answer here : http://www.justanswer.com/ford/4okmk-ford-edge-limited-remove-rear-rotors-08.html Expert: Tim Mohr replied 5 years ago. Hi, my name is XXXXX XXXXX is nothing holding the rear rotors on, after the caliper has been removed, now inside the rotors on the back is the emergency brake shoes, and the rotor can hang up on these, that is what the rubber plug is for, remove the plug and rotate the rotor so you can see the star wheel on the ebrake adjuster, then back off the adjuster with a screwdriver, and the rotors will come off,Tim ... where have in detail explained why a wheel with a star , how I understand to hold a back rotor on the place, but I still don't know whether these can only regulate force of pressing of the emergency brake to a rotor or it is necessary to regulate a cable tension?. also I am interested in a possibility of adjustment by a wheel with a star, it turns out that when an opportunity to twist a wheel with a star ends, I won't be able to regulate more force of a clip of the emergency brake to a rotor and it is necessary to change a block of the emergency brake?

Thanks, I will observe, after each full tank, however it is strange.... I read that it is synthetics??

Friends as to me to make adjustment, using two locations or one location? Also I regret what nobody has answered about the boozed barrel, its function adjustment?

I have shipped Shevron Havoline 2 - cycle engine oil Tc-W3. How you find it?

Friends, I gather this Saturday, nevertheless to adjust the parking brake. Also I would like to specify something: 1. I have understood that for adjustment there are two places which are specified on images. (An equalizer on the second image) I have studied the second place. I know its arrangement, it is from below (under car), right after PTU towards the center of the car. .... but I do not know where there is the first place (on the first image http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t597/PerfA_ZN0W/Ford%20Edge/2010%20Ford%20Edge%20Parking%20Brake%20Cable%20Adjustment%201_zpshz3qtjme.jpg ). Somebody can specify in what part to me it to look? At a back wheel or at the brake pedal or where? 2. also I would like to specify surely to use in adjustment at the same time two places of regulation or I can regulate only in one place voluntarily (for example only in the place 1, and not to use for adjustment the place 2). Thanks.

Thanks. Acceleration performance, on my feelings without AC, really better, but the engine too powerful what precisely to feel huge distinction. I am disturbed by some delay as I specified earlier, at a sharp set of speed in the movement on the road, the car as thinks second or two and begins to go promptly. I heard, some people note such problem, it is really normal? Also I wanted to specify whether you from my check see an explicit problem with TPS? Thanks for the help.

Yes, really the AC conditioner worked, I hoped that it will create additional loading, and it will be good for check. But today I have made check (15 min. driving) without AC (conditioner ) and I have added the output data in Forscan. Here today's Log without AC conditioner http://my-files.ru/szwsvd

It is csv-files 19082016.csv http://my-files.ru/m2uvet

o'k, I will consider. I will correct in the necessary format now....

Hi! It is Log (file 19082016.fsl ) http://my-files.ru/7f7m4y during driving, is about 15 minutes of different driving, quiet and with accelerations sharp when you presses a pedal of the accelerometer (45 km/h) and the car thinks two seconds, then sharply goes and gathers speed. I have taken all parameters correctly or something superfluous and it is possible to exclude?

The engine has been heated-up, its temperature was 90 degrees Celsius, I did not do still cleaning of TPS as have taken only the first step - it is calibration throttle therefore I will do later cleaning of a throttle and to investigate it later. Thanks. Concerning supervision over parameters which you have specified how to do it, using Forscan? .......through some period?

Hi, I have made calibration of a throttle, have disconnected to Clem "+ " for 30 minutes and in additives I have connected it with "-." I have made everything as it is specified in video, further I have tried to finish the full cycle I/M as you it is specified in the manul (15 minutes on highway, 20 minutes and four stops for 30 seconds, then eight hours of a stop, then to warm up the engine and to finish a cycle). I have made it, but the lamp blinks eight times it means that I/M is not complete, but I will try to do it once again as it is specified in a manual. Today I have made oscillogram FORScan to compare with pregoing, here that I have received: I am disturbed also, what you specified earlier: it is late reaction of a throttle to pressing of a pedal.Sometimes : I want to tell that when driving, I also notice this shortcoming when I go slowly 45-50 km/h and I need to make fast acceleration till 80-90 km/h, I sharply press an accelerometer pedal - the car thinks 2-3 seconds and does breakthrough. All have this problem?