Gimp

I made a bad assumption that most people put off thinking about snow tires until around Thanksgiving or the first snowfall. You're like me in planning ahead for the inevitable.

For anyone in the Detroit Metro area: I sold my 2012 Edge last summer and now have a set of snow tires w/ wheels that need a new home. The tires are Blizzak DMV1's (235/70 R17). The tread is still in the green with remaining depth of 8/32nds, 9/32nds, 10/32nds, and 11/32nds. They were very effective tires last year and I would have used them for at least another winter if I still had the Edge. I also have a front set of Weathertech floor liners for the same vehicle which are available for sale. Please let me know if anyone is interested. *Edited to note that the tires and floor liners have been sold.

In late April at about 118,000 miles the check engine light came on for the first time with this vehicle. Ford mechanics evaluated the problem and detected a lack of boost but could not find the source of the problem. So they changed my air filter which didn't need to be changed, reset the light and advised me to wait for further developments. It took almost exactly a month for the the check engine light to come on again. I'd just purchased new O2 sensors and was going to change them over Memorial Day weekend, but decided to take the vehicle to a nearby non-dealership auto shop instead. They initially detected a possible exhaust system leak which was then traced up to the turbo. They can't find the leak either. They did mention tightening some loose hoses (thanks Ford mechanic) but that wasn't the source of the problem. I've always bought new cars, maintained them well and driven them to high mileage points. Eventually the problems start, the maintenance increases, and the reliability starts to go down. I just don't have the tolerance for that anymore so perhaps it's time for me to help stimulate the economy with a new vehicle.

Well, after a couple of instances of the check engine light coming on last month and then again last week, I've just been diagnosed as having a turbo boost leak at 121,000 miles. I was really hoping that I wouldn't see a problem like this until after 150K.

I'd recommend that you consider a tire change before making changes to your suspension. I also felt that my Edge ride was a bit harsh (Michigan potholes, etc.) up until I changed to Bridgestone tires. That action softened things up just enough so that I no longer thought about ride harshness. On the other hand, that softer ride did take some getting used to as I felt a little more lean on sharp curves and while making lane changes.

It will fit. I was apparently the first person to report a self install of a roof rack on a 2012 model Edge back in late 2011. In the following discussions it was determined that the same roof rack part numbers fit all preceding model year vehicles as well as the 2012 update. A number of people on this site have traded racks for strips since then and I've never heard of anyone having a problem.

I installed a Scion xb bumper cover on my 2012 model two or three years ago and have been very happy with it. It wasn't a 100% perfect fit, but most people would never notice the slight gap at either end. If you use the search function on this site and look for "Scion xb" there will be a lot of comments with sources. I have no idea if it will fit a 2016 model Edge. One could always purchase it, check the fit and then return it if it isn't good to go.

I used the Ford SP537 spark plugs that I picked up at the dealership for just over $9 each. My manual specified the SP527 plugs but these are the replacement. I had the parts department manager double check on that to be sure. They are 100,000 mile plugs so for that price I don't know why you would want to try anything else. The spark plug socket I used was 5/8" with a built in six inch extension. I went with the magnetic version and it worked great. The spark plugs are set in deep and you can't see them so you need an extension. As mentioned in my original post I was having problems with my old rubberized socket because it wouldn't let go and my non-attached extension was coming off before the socket would let go of the plug. This magnetized version worked much better. I also applied a bit of spark plug anti-seize compound on the threads. Some advice says it isn't necessary, some advice says to do it. I decided to do it as a favor to the next person who has to remove the plugs. I don't think there is a video online for the 4-cylinder Edge. I purchased the first one sold at my dealership when they were just released so I'm probably one of the first to change the plugs. I never even considered making a video. It would take too much effort to edit out inappropriate language that I tend to utter when I'm getting agitated. I'll look and see if I can take a couple of photos tomorrow. The best thing to do before undertaking this procedure is just pop off the plastic engine cover (while wearing gloves) for an initial look so you can size up the job. It's got a clip at each corner and all you do is just pull straight up. It will probably be sticking so wear gloves for when you smack your fingers when it finally comes free. Note - lubricate the attaching points before putting it back on. Once it is off, just note that you need to disconnect the top of the air filter box, and loosen a screw back where the air intake passes over the spark plugs. Pull it forward and you'll expose the plugs. Just take five minutes to look with the cover off and I think it's easy to see what needs to be disconnected. There are two or three electrical plugs that also need to be disconnected so that you can push wiring bundles aside. They will be easy to see. Before you actually do the work, have a source of compressed air ready to blow all the dust away from your working area so nothing drops down when each plug is pulled. Do one plug change at a time. There is a torque spec for the plugs but I didn't use my really large torque wrench because it wan't practical in the limited space. I just went with snug, being careful not to over tighten. That was probably my only nervous moment. My automotive maintenance experience is probably mid-level. I change oil, air filters, plugs, brake pads, rotors, shocks and struts, bumper fascia's and even one muffler on the floor of my garage. I thought this plug change effort was easier than everything but an oil change. I'd really been dreading it because I knew the 6 cylinder Edge plug change was very challenging.

I watched your video and was left thinking that doing this could be a really bad idea. As it turned out, the two experiences are on the opposite ends of the difficulty scale. I think that I even had a much easier time with the brake pad and rotor replacement, benefiting from your lesson learned to pay extra attention that I was turning "lefty" rather than "righty".

I decided to replace my spark plugs this weekend and can report that it was an extremely easy job to do on the 2.0 EcoBoost. I was worried about the complexity after watching online videos on replacing the plugs in the 6-cylinder Edge engines as an awful lot of components needed to be disassembled. With the 4 cylinder engine the process was essentially: 1. pop off the plastic cover, 2. remove the air intake from the filter box cover on back (two clips at the filter box and one screw on the clamp in back, and 3. disconnect about three electrical plugs to move wiring cables out of the way. Prep took less than 10-minutes including the time to carefully eyeball everything to figure it out. After the plugs had been changed, re-assembly took about two minutes. The only difficulty I encountered was with my spark plug socket. It is pretty old and the rubber inside was just stiff and wouldn't let go of the plug. I ended up buying a new magnetized socket which made it really simple. My vehicle mileage was at 91,335 and the replacement plugs came from my Ford dealer. They are 100,000 mile plugs, but I didn't see any point in waiting any longer since it's unlikely that I'll be the owner when it's time to do this again. My vehicle had been sitting overnight and it was about 50 degrees in the garage when I did this. The old plugs screeched just a bit as they broke free and that was the extent of my nervous moments. The total time required was only about an hour (not including the trip to get a new socket) from start to finish including blowing out the dust, and putting the tools away. I will add that I should have worn gloves when I pulled up the plastic engine cover and it would have saved me some discomfort. The front two attaching points popped up fairly easily but the back two points were stubborn. Right at the moment when I was thinking 'there must be a hidden bolt' and 'I should probably reach over and put on those gloves sitting next to me' it came free and I lost some skin from the back of my thumb which is now turning purple under the nail bed. The resulting discomfort complicated my follow-on task of replacing the front brake pads and rotors.

I just went over 91,000 miles with my 2012, 2.0 Liter Edge and I have never had any sort of engine problems. I'm the original owner. The oil has always been changed whenever the oil change message comes on and I use Mobil 1 synthetic. I also change the engine air filter regularly. (Transmission fluid was changed at 50K and will be changed again at about 100 K) Way back when I was deciding between the 2.0 and the 3.5 I took both for a test drive. In my opinion the 2.0 noticeably out performed the 3.5. I work for an automotive engineering firm with guys who have decades of powertrain experience. Eco boost Ford's are a popular choice here and two V.P.'s in my building own them. Test drive both vehicles and if you like the Eco boost model more (I think you will), you won't regret buying it.

Regarding Yakima vs. Thule, they are both well known and well tested brands. No doubt people have preferences just as they do between one brand of coffee or another, but in the end they both do the job. I use A Yakima rack. I chose that four years ago because I liked their canoe brackets. My recommendation would be to focus on what you're planning on carrying and which company makes the brackets that best meet your needs and then go with that manufacturer. When you mention "from 48", 53", 58" are you referring to cross bar length? In my opinion you want the shortest that will fit whatever you plan on carrying. Extra length creates increased wind noise. I think that I bought the 53" length but ended up cutting several inches off that I didn't need. They are now 50" wide. If I had wanted to carry a bike in addition to my canoe I would need the wider bar. With just a canoe I didn't need anymore length extending out from the rails than was required to run the tie down straps around. Reducing the extra length yielded much lower air flow noise.

I purchased the switch at my Ford dealer on Friday. I gave the '8T4Z 7821813 A' part number (drivers door) to the parts guy along with my VIN number to verify it was correct for my vehicle. He found that it had been replaced with '8T4Z 7821813 B' I'd like to think that the'B' version is somewhat product improved but who knows. Although I had checked out my online purchase options for the part I decided it was something I'd rather buy at the dealership to ensure that I got the right item. I'm glad that I did that. I did hand him a copy of the online purchase information which showed a lower price so he did give me a discounted Ford employee price of $109.62. I've done that before with a Honda dealership and they always give me the discount without me even saying anything. I'm about to go out into the garage and proceed with this repair. BTW, I'm currently at just over 85,000 miles with my 2012 and the door ajar sensor only began acting up last month. I'd just had my brake booster replaced so I'm a bit annoyed. ............................................................................................................................................................................................................... Okay, it appears that I completed the part change. As noted in one post I read, it's about a 90-minute job if you know what you're doing. It only took me about 4 hours work to gain that level of experience. :-( The problem I had was with the door latch rod. The part has two holes that it could go in, and only one of them is the right one. I chose incorrectly. After studying the part I removed closely, I saw the wear marks and realized what I'd done wrong. I think that I pulled the inner door panel off three or four times before I finally got that right. It is amazing how many cable bundles, push rods and components occupy the insides of a car door. Many curses were uttered into the air of my cold shadowy garage and blood adorns the interior panels as testament to the many close spaces and sharp corners. While in the midst of it I was wishing I'd just paid Ford to do the job, but now I wouldn't hesitate to do it myself with all that hard won experience that I just gained. My thanks to the photos in Post 1, and the video link in post 6 for the advice for giving me the confidence to take it apart. Putting it all back together ended up being the challenge.

Thanks! I have to look closer at the caps. I couldn't see a way to get them off and was hesitant to stick a thin blade in somewhere and start prying.

I'm looking for advice on how to remove the front wiper arms. On other vehicles I'm used to popping off a cap to access the bolt but I can't figure it out with my 2012 Edge. I'm ready to replace the front struts and to do that it looks like I need to remove the wiper arms followed by the plastic panel between the hood and the windshield. Advice would be helpful because I don't want to force anything.

I just had my brake booster replaced yesterday at about 80,200 miles. I was glad that it covered by the extended warranty. I had printed out the PDF copy that was available from the link earlier in this discussion thread and left it on the passenger seat so the dealership was aware that I knew of it. I had to drive my wifes car for 4-days and the first thing I noted after getting back into the Edge was that it was time for the struts to be replaced. You get used to things and don't notice they're wearing out.

Elizabeth, Go to the following link in this forum and look for post #7 where I detailed the installation of the roof rails a few years ago. I listed the part numbers there. It should be the same for a 2014. My experience was that it was cheaper to order the entire kit including the cross bars that I don't use than it was to order the rails by piece part number. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8592-oem-roof-rack-install/ Please consider posting a photo of your Edge with both Kayaks on top when you've got it all set up. -Gimp

If you're saying that the $4,000 increase in sales price is for a used 2.0L Edge, that's actually good news for a current owner like me. It means that paying the $1,000 increase in price for it new has had a benefit other than just an increase in MPG. Speaking of MPG, I tracked mine for every single fill-up until I reached 63,000 miles and tired of that. My total life average MPG was 25.9 It would have been a bit higher if I hadn't been carrying a canoe on my roof for some long highway trips. It would also have been higher if my wife and daughter hadn't been driving it a bit. They both enjoyed using the Turbo for jack-rabbit starts and that really dragged the fuel efficiency down.

I am about to hit 74,000 miles with my 2012, 2.0 liter Ecoboost Edge SEL. I've never had reason to regret purchasing it over the larger engine. At the time of purchase the 2.0 liter engine was a roughly $1,000 premium over the 3.5 and that made me balk. Then I test drove the vehicle and was impressed with what I felt was much better low end pick-up over the larger engine. Are you saying there is now a $4,000 increase in price for purchasing the 2.0 with the exact same package as the 3.5 liter engine? If so, I don't think it's worth it for that difference and I'd go for the 3.5

I have an FWD 2012. The first winter with the original all season tires it handled the snow well enough here in Michigan. The second winter with more wear they were 'adequate' but not I wasn't feeling too comfortable about the performance. Even though they had tread, less tread made for poorer grip in the snow and ice. If you have FWD and your vehicle is handling that poorly, then I suggest that your tires do not have enough tread for the record snow conditions you're getting where you live. I haven't followed the temperatures in Massachusetts, but if it's been as cold as it has been in Michigan, the rubber composition of those original tires isn't made for your situation so you're losing even more grip. I think you need new tires. After last winters horrendous driving conditions I resolved to purchase actual snow tires this year. I bought Bridgestone's in December. With my FWD, I've had outstanding traction all winter long.

Reference: "Any suggestions?" I noticed that you said that you are driving around and waiting for the trouble code to clear itself after you cleaned up the gas inlet. Have you looked at just manually clearing the code and then waiting to see if it comes back or not? I have had success in doing that with Honda and Mercedes vehicles that were reluctant to clear after a problem had been fixed. It's certainly something that I'd try before resorting to more expensive measures.

Last year I replaced the original Michelin tires with Bridgestone's at 45,000 miles. They really took some of the stiffness out of the ride and I rarely think about it anymore. I assume that improvement was due to a softer sidewall.

Vik - I have a 2012 Edge that also gets chemical like heater smell when I start it up in cold weather. It last a couple of minutes until the system clears out and then it goes away. It doesn't smell like coolant and none of my other fluids show any sign of leaking. My suspicion is that the smell is coming from windshield wiper fluid that has seeped into the engine compartment. A couple of weeks ago I changed from my summer wiper fluid to the winter fluid and the smell seemed a bit stronger. I use the RainX brand summer and winter wiper fluids which I like, so I haven't bothered to try another fluid to see if it makes any difference. I also have noticed that if it rains in cold weather, the startup smell isn't as strong which leads me to believe the rain is helping to dilute whatever may have seeped into the engine compartment. This is just pure speculation based on casual observation.

My calculations are from actual fill ups, not the computer. I don't have remote start either so that isn't impacting my results.

Updated MPG results at 60,008 miles are edited into the original post for this discussion.