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Hi Steve. :D Unfortunately, you will lose SYNC. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi John. :D Impossible for us to determine exactly what happened, but most likely your wife accidentally wiped out the settings for your preferences. Easiest thing to do? Simply take out your Owners Manual and reprogram your seat preferences and keyfob from scratch. That would be my advice. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi mcn. :D Of course, it is impossible to determine without being able to examine the wheels, but: Assuming that your Edge is still within the "Bumper to Bumper" Warranty period, the problem is not due to some sort of road or impact damage, and you did not use any type of acidic or caustic wheel cleaners (as specifically warned in the Owners Manual), then yes they "should" be covered under Warranty. Bottom line, the only way to find out is to make a Service appointment and take your Edge in so the wheels can be examined. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Barry. :D Point that out to the Service Department at your Dealership. It may help them narrow down the problem. Perhaps they need to replace (again?) the entire weatherstripping and window seal. But it should certainly be addressed and corrected. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D The recommended cleaning and maintenance method is to treat them just as you would your paint finish. So, wash them with your regular car wash soap and water, rinsing well before and after the wash. Use a very soft wheel brush or a wash mitt (what I use) to get in between the spokes. You cannot just spray water between the spokes and expect them to get clean. You need to manually get in between the spokes and agitate the dirt, or they will not get clean. Then if/when needed, give them a good coat of wax and buff off to shine and protect. If you wax them regularly, you will find that they will clean much easier and stay shiny longer. I use Meguiar's "Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo" and "Meguiar's Liquid Cleaner Wax" for my chrome wheels ("Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo" and "Gold Class Liquid Wax" for the paint). My car and wheels are now over 2 1/2 years old and still look new. Do not use any acidic spray on wheel cleaners, as that will dull them. If you bring your cars through a car wash (I never do) , also tell them not to use the spray on wheel cleaners before the wash either. Concerning a chrome polish. I do not want to say that you should not use one, but I can say that I have had no need for one. Here is some added information from the Owners Manual concerning cleaning of the wheels on our vehicles: ALUMINUM WHEELS AND WHEEL COVERS Aluminum wheels and wheel covers are coated with a clearcoat paint finish. In order to maintain their shine: • Clean weekly with Motorcraft Wheel and Tire Cleaner (ZC-37-A), which is available from your authorized dealer. Heavy dirt and brake dust accumulation may require agitation with a sponge. Rinse thoroughly with a strong stream of water. • Never apply any cleaning chemical to hot or warm wheel rims or covers. • Some automatic car washes may cause damage to the finish on your wheel rims or covers. Chemical-strength cleaners, or cleaning chemicals, in combination with brush agitation to remove brake dust and dirt, could wear away the clearcoat finish over time. • Do not use hydrofluoric acid-based or high caustic-based wheel cleaners, steel wool, fuels or strong household detergent. • To remove tar and grease, use Motorcraft Bug and Tar Remover (ZC-42), available from your authorized dealer. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Thomas. :D First question: Is you car still under Warranty? Next: Check all of your brake and turn signal bulbs. See if any are out. If one is out, replace the bulb and see if that corrects the problem. Also, check the fuse diagrams and charts in your Owners Manual. Determine which fuse is controlling the non-working bulb and check the fuse. Replace if necessary. If that does not correct the problem, or if more than one is not illuminating, there is a good chance you have a deeper electrical problem. You can try replacing all non-working bulbs, but the odds of more than one bulb actually being "burned out" are slim. It would likely be another deeper problem (like fuses, relays, a wiring short etc). So if your car is still under Warranty and you have multiple bulbs out, bring it in for proper diagnosis and repair. Additionally, just replacing a blown fuse will not likely fix the problem, since fuses do not just overload for no reason. If a fuse blows, there is usually an underlying cause that must be corrected. If it is not under Warranty, you can try replacing all burnt out bulbs first if you like, and if that does not help then bring it to the Dealer or a shop that specializes in automotive electrical work. Good luck. :beerchug:

Oooops. Sorry. Double post.

Hi Steve. :D Then If you are on your own and have verified no hidden fees, I would say pull the trigger. If you are feeling spunky, you can try to negotiate another $100-$200 off, but that is up to you. As I stated, if you can get a good interest rate from your bank or Credit Union, sometimes it can be worth it to take the Incentive Cash and arrange your own Financing. But again, there are too many unknown variables for us to tell you what is best in your case. What it comes down to is you add up your total out of pocket expenses, including down payments, trade-in and all loan payments over the life of the loans. Do this for both prices: Incentive Cash with "regular financing" versus full price with 0% APR Financing. Then choose the better of the two deals for your circumstances. Please let us know how things work out. Best of luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. :D Of course the quote of $29,451 included the $3,000 Incentive Cash. We explained that. I think at this point, you really need a family member of friend who is educated about car buying to assist you. Otherwise, you are going to be lost. I think it may help if you carefully reread some of the previous replies. The two prices are good prices. The $29,451 figure is essentially a bit above Invoice Price minus $3,000 Incentive Cash. The $32,451 figure is essentially a bit above Invoice Price with 0% APR Financing. Both prices are about the best you are going to get. If you haggle, you may be able to get another $50-$100-$200 or so off (or you may not). That is it. However, only you can do the calculating to see which choice gives you the lower "total out of pocket" expense over the life of your payments. First, you need to determine what sort of APR Rate you can get from the Dealer, your Bank, Credit Union, etc if you were to take the $3,000 Incentive Cash. We have no ides how much you are financing, how large a down payment you are placing, if you have a trade-in, how long you are financing for etc etc. It is simply a matter of deciding which is better for you: $3,000 off the purchase price, or 0% APR Interest Rate. If you were paying cash for the car, the $3,000 Incentive Cash would be the obvious choice. If you have to Finance, there are far too many questions and variables for us to give an answer. But the price is a good price, either way. Bottom line, you really need someone who knows what they are doing to go with you to the Dealership and help you. Do you have anyone you can count on who is educated in car buying? That is your best bet. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. :D Okay, now we have something to work with. As you stated, the MSRP of that Edge is $34,430 and the Incentives are $3,000 Cash or 0% Finance APR Rates up to 60 months (1.9% for 72 months). And you are spot on concerning the optional equipment on that Edge. Short story is that with the added information we now have your price of $29,451 is a good one. Longer story, with more detail: First, of course that assumes that the Dealer does not add any other extra "Fees" or "Charges" such as "Documentation", Destination", "Dealer Prep", "Computer Usage", etc etc, to that $29,451 figure. Dealers like to pack on these "Fees and Charges" at the last moment, when you are not expecting it. And most buyers never question them. These fees and charges are nothing but pure profit for the Dealer. So, if they only add Tax, Title and Registration, you have a good deal. Next, as an FYI price comparison: You state that you have a negotiated purchase price of $29.451. If you were buying this Edge using a Ford X-Plan "Friends and Neighbors" PIN (available from a Ford Employee), your Final X-Plan Price would be $29,396. That would be a Ford Purchase Plan Price, backed by Ford, and is a very good price. Essentially, it is Invoice Price, minus the $3,000 Incentive Cash. You are only paying $55 more than that Ford Purchase Plan Price. A good deal. Of course, it never hurts to try and talk them down another $100-$200, but bottom line is your price is only slightly higher ($55) than that Ford X-Plan Purchase Price including the $3,000 Incentive Cash. Just a few things to keep in mind: First, the $3,000 Incentive Cash and the 0% Financing can not currently be combined. It is one or the other. So if you take the $3,000 Incentive Cash, it is highly unlikely that you will get 0% APR Financing. So you will need to find out what the regular APR Rate is through the Dealership for Financing. Also check your Bank, Credit Union, etc to see what rates you may qualify for through them. You may be able to get a better deal through a non-Dealer source. Never hurts to check. Next, again, be careful of those extra fees and charges being tacked on at the last minute. They will act as though everyone pays them and you have no choice. That is not true. Bottom line, it seems you have a pretty good price there, if the Dealer deals honestly with you from this point on. Hope this information is not too confusing and helps. If my explanation is confusing, feel free to ask any questions you may have. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. :D I hope you understand that i am trying to help, not bust your chops. If you are purchasing a vehicle, you really need to know more information. Without knowing how much of that price is Incentive Cash, we can not give any type of accurate answer. Incentive Cash comes from Ford. If you do not know how much Incentive Cash you are receiving from Ford, you actually have no idea how much you are paying the Dealer for the car. If you do not know the Incentive and other price information we are asking for, you are not shopping for a vehicle in the correct manner. You are at the mercy of the Salesman. What is the name and ZIP Code of the Dealership where the Edge is currently located? With that information, the color of the interior and exterior and the vehicle information you already gave in your first post, I may be able to find the Edge and get the VIN for you (along with all the pricing information). Essentially it comes down to this, if you carefully read and provide the information being asked for, we can give you very precise advice. Otherwise, you may as well ask us to flip a coin for an answer as to whether you got a good price or not. Please post back with the information needed. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. :D If you would like an accurate answer, we need more information. At the very least, we would need to know the MSRP (the bottom line price on the window sticker), how much you are receiving in Cash Incentives (Incentive amounts vary by Region/ZIP Code, so we have no idea what yours may be), what is your Loans APR Rate and duration (36, 48, 60 months)? Preferably, (and if you would like precise advice): If you give us the VIN, along with the name and ZIP Code of the Dealership where the vehicle is currently located, we could give you exact pricing including the MSRP, Factory Invoice Price, available Incentives in your area etc. You can find the VIN information by calling your Dealership or by going to LINK: Ford Direct and using the "Search Inventory" tool to find the correct Dealer, then the Window Sticker and VIN of the Edge you are interested in. Anyone who gives you a definitive answer without further information is simply guessing, and that is of no more help to you than flipping a coin. Post back with the added information. Good luck. :beerchug:

H Bruceer. :D It could be various things. Bad switch, bad connections/connectors, bad wiring, shorts in the accessory system, etc etc. Your MKX is still under Warranty (unless you have an abnormal amount of miles on it). Take it to the Dealer for service so it can be properly diagnosed and repaired. Even if you had found a blown fuse, you would still need to take it in for service to have the cause of the blown fuse diagnosed and repaired. Replacing the blown fuse would not fix the underlying problem. Let us know what the Dealer finds out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi csmith. :D As computerguy stated, you can see the equipment packages (SE, SEL, Limited) at the Ford.com or Forddirect.com websites. Or pick up an Edge brochure and the trim levels and equipment differences are explained there also. Concerning color: Purchase the color you like better. At most, color will affect trade/resale by $50 or so (or not at all). So get the color you like. A smart buyer does not purchase a car according to what you will get at trade/resale. Concerning what the Dealer said. Of course the Limited will get you a little bit more at trade/resale. Because you paid a lot more when you purchased it. You will not get back anywhere near what you paid extra, so simply buy the vehicle that has the equipment you want. Again, bottom line is you do not purchase a car according to what you will get at trade/resale. You have to drive around in it for 2-3-4-5 or however many years you will own it. Buy what makes you happy. Concerning the 20" wheels: If you do not like them, do not get them. They are heavier than the smaller stock wheels and will detrimentally affect ride, performance and MPG's (due to added weight and the lower profile tire). In addition, when it is time to replace the tires, 20" tires cost more than the stock size tires. The only advantage 20" wheels have is if you like the look or style of the larger wheels. And since you do not care for the way they look, there is no sense in getting them. And the sport suspension will ride firmer than the stock suspension, so if you like a more comfortable ride and do not want a firmer ride, do not get it. I am not telling you not to get them if you like them. But you say you are not sure. Only you can decide what you like or do not like. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

How about this idea, csmith: Skip the $399 "Simoniz Paint Treatment" (aka a $399 wax job). Put the $399 towards the $500 White Tri-Coat that you really want, and then it is only costing you $101. Okay, problem solved. :shades: Go get your new Edge! Just kidding. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi csmith. :D Color? Personal preference. However, concerning the "Simoniz" treatemnt: No, no, no! A big waste of money (and yes, that includes the so called "Paint Finish Guarantee" that usually comes with it). You will be paying $399 for a basic polymer wax job. Something you could purchase for $15-$20 and do yourself. So unless you are the type who will never wax your Edge yourself, save your money. Paint Protectants, Undercoating, Interior Stain Treatments, etc etc. They are nothing but pure profit for the Dealer, and can be done easily, on your own, for a fraction of the cost a Dealer charges. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi csmith. :D I understood completely. That was why I asked if you are the Ford Employee or you are the family of the Ford Employee. The best thing you can do is be registered for the Ford MyPlan website. Then you can access A-Plan Pricing, Dealer Inventory and the latest Incentive information for your area. In addition, if you want accurate information, do not use Dealer websites. While there are exceptions, most are notoriously inaccurate. That goes for the Inventory listed, pricing and Incentives. For accurate pricing and Incentive information, either get registered for the Ford MyPlan website (first choice) or use the Ford Direct website I linked to in my earlier reply. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Technoguru. :D Just so others do not get confused by your post: Unfortunately, you are confusing A-Plan with some other price (I am not sure what). A-Plan Pricing is several thousand dollars less than Invoice Price. A-Plan is the "Ford Employee Price". It is only available to Ford Employees and their immediate family members, and is the absolute lowest price anyone will ever get a Ford vehicle for. It is the price that a Dealer pays Ford for the vehicle (including all holdbacks). Absolutely no Dealer offered you A-Plan Pricing over the Internet. X-Plan is a "Friends and Neighbors Plan" price and is approximately the Factory Invoice Price, then Incentives are deducted. Even a Dealership Employee can not get A-Plan pricing. They get D-Plan, which is $100 higher. Just to give you a general idea, someone using an A-Plan PIN, with current Incentives in the $3,000 range, would get an Edge for over $5,000 -$6000 less than Invoice price (you paid only $300 less than Invoice). They would be paying over $7,500 -$9,000 or more less than MSRP (these are approximate/rough numbers). Bottom line, your figures are incorrect/confused concerning A-Plan. Invoice, MSRP, "Friends and Family" (no such thing, it is Friends and Neighbors) etc etc. Hopefully this will help clear up some of the confusion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi csmith. :D Are you the Ford Employee, or are you a family member of the Ford Employee? If you are the Ford Employee, go to the Ford AXZ-Plan website and use the tools there to help yourself. If you are a family member of the Ford Employee, ask them to sign you up for the MyPlan.Ford.com website so you can access the tools and information there. It is impossible for any of us to answer your Incentive questions, as Incentives vary by Region (ZIP Code), and therefore we can not tell you what the qualifications are for the current Incentives in your area. If you give us your ZIP Code, we can at least tell you what the publicly available Incentives are. The $500 Military Incentive is usually not available to be combined with the A-Plan. With A-Plan, you area usually able to use all "publicly available Incentives". That means the same Incentives that any Tom, Dick or Harry can get if they walk in off the street. But no "Special" Incentives that are for special groups only. So no Military Incentive, No Club Rebates, etc etc. It is a hard distinction to understand, but it is a distinction that eliminates "Special Group Incentives" for A-Plan purchasers. In general, it does a Dealer no good to lie to you about Incentives, since the money comes from Ford, not out of the Dealers pocket. It is possible for them to make a mistake though when simply giving information. However, when the purchase is completed, the order system does list all qualifying Incentives. Again, if you post your ZIP Code, we can let you know what all current National Incentives are. Calling AXZ-Plan Headquarters will not do you much good, as they normally tell callers to contact their local Dealers for Incentive information. You can also find this information yourself by going to the LINK: Ford Direct By using the "Search Inventory" tool on the Ford Direct website you can search your local Dealers Inventory, find your Regional Incentives, etc. And also remember to have the Ford Employee sign you up for the Ford MyPlan website. The information contained on that site is invaluable and not available to the general public. Also, if you post the VIN#, Trim Level (SE, SEL, Limited) and color of the Edge you are interested, in along with the Name and ZIP Code of the Dealership where it is currently located, I can tell you the exact X-Plan Price, along with available Incentives. If you decide to do this, please post all of the information asked for. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi franks. :D Tha MKX is a beautiful vehicle and all things considered (looks, price, performance, features, quality etc) I would highly recommend it. The "problem" you are facing with the MPG figures is that if you see an MPG figure in Canada it is using the Imperial (or UK) Gallon for their figures (or it will be in liters, not gallons). The US uses the US Gallon. The Imperial gallon is a larger volume. One Imperial gallon equals approximately 1.2 US gallons, so the Canadian mileage figure "looks" higher. In other words, the mileage is exactly the same, the "gallons" are just two different sizes. :yup: We do not know where you are located, so we can not tell you which figure is correct for you. So use the measurement figure that uses the same "gallon" measurement as where you are located. Or convert the proper gallon figure to liters. Good luck. :beerchug:

HI Sean. :D Yes, bringing your car in for diagnosis and service is the best course of action. However, I would also make another recommendation: Do not ever ask the person who gave you that "nitrogen information" another question again. He/she can not be trusted to give truthful information. While the nitrogen fill would definitely not be the cause of a noise or vibration problem, noise and vibrations move no slower through nitrogen filled tires than they do compressed air filled tires. The sole benefits of nitrogen are that it is less affected by temperature variation, so your tire pressure will remain steady during temperature fluctuations due to ambient air temps and driving temps. Also, since nitrogen molecules are larger than compressed air molecules, there is less ancillary leakage, so your tires will keep their correct pressure longer. If that individual feeds you that type of BS once, they will do it again. So be careful about dealing with him/her. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi abnormal. :D Whether it is "premature" or not depends on too many variables to account for here (your driving style, type of roads, possible defects on your vehicle, etc etc). Does it happen sometimes? Yes. Is 22,000 miles too early for a pad and rotor problem? For me, yes. For you, we can't give an accurate answer. If you take an Internet poll, I am sure you will find someone who has needed to replace their pads and rotors this soon. But that information does not help you get your car fixed. You need to bring it to your Ford Dealer for service. Did you replace the pads yourself, pay an Independent Shop to replace them, or have your Ford Dealer replace them? Since you have a 2007 model with less than 36,000 miles, your Edge should still be covered under the New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty. You should take it into your Ford Dealer so the problems can be properly diagnosed and repaired. If the problem is due to a defect in brake component materials or workmanship, the repair costs will be covered under Warranty. Let us know what you find out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi imafordboi. :D So you can see the diagrams/drawings" (might make the directions easier to understand), look in the Index under "Windshield washer fluid and wipers", then "replacing wiper blades". In the 2008 Edge PDF version, it is on pages 295-296. Not sure if yours will be the same. As I stated, I was not trying to be a wiseguy. Just thought it might be helpful in the future. Sometimes it takes us Internet schlubs a while to answer some people's questions. I am not sure about the Rain-X question, since the Edge rear wiper blade is a different type of attachment. My guess? Most good wipers blades come with adapters, so it should fit. But be sure before purchasing, or be sure you can return it for a refund. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hey...wait a minute...1/2 in jest, 1/2 tongue-in-cheek, 1/2 joking...but that is...where is that calculator..three halves...that can't...doesn't add...more than one whole...oh, I get it!!!

Hi imafordboi. :D From the Owners Manual (copied and pasted). There are also diagrams/drawings in the Manual, which may make the directions clearer: Changing rear window wiper blade The rear wiper arm is designed without a service position. This reduces the risk of damage to the blade in an automatic car wash. To replace the wiper blade: 1. Grab the wiper arm just below the blade attachment and pull it as far away from the glass as possible. Do not use excessive force because it can break the wiper arm at the heel. Hold it there until the next step. 2. Grab the wiper blade with your other hand and use your fingers to push the wiper arm tip through the wiper blade center to separate the blade from the arm. 3. Attach the new wiper to the wiper arm and press it into place until a click is heard. If you find this procedure too difficult, please see your dealer. Not trying in the least to be a wise guy, but the answers to many/most maintenance type questions can be found in the Owners Manual. I am not trying to tell you not to ask questions here, that is what we are all here for. It is just that sometimes it will be quicker to get the answer from the Manual than wait for one of us to answer here. If you were not given a Manual by the Dealer, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Owners Manuals Fill in the drop down boxes with your vehicle information and click "Submit". Then click "Owners Guide". You will see that you can also download the Maintenance and Warranty Guides, in case the Dealer did not give you copies of those either. Good luck with your Edge. :beerchug: