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Hi Ky Bob. :D Actually, I found some information right here in the Ford Edge Forums. Here are a couple of copy and pastes (the C&P's are bold and underlined). The first is from a member named "BlueLtd": The Dealer can use the IDS programmer and program the smart junction box . They need to enable Daytime running lights in the exterior lighting section. Takes less than 15 minutes to hook up the programmer and change it to enable Daytime running lamps. If they don't understand how to do this they can call the Ford Tech line. And here is the name of a Dealership that a member named "Gary F" stated enabled his DRL's. He also mentioned that it took the Dealer all of 10 minutes: Capital Ford 4900 Capital blvd Raleigh, NC They have a Tech that work next to the Quick lube location. I don't know his name however he works in a building that is located behind the new car dealership. Here is the link to the full thread: LINK: Ford Edge Forums As you will see if you read all of the replies, there are a lot of Dealers (like yours) who will just say it can not be done, as opposed to taking the time to contact Ford and find out the correct procedure. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Ky Bob. :D I have not had my DRL's enabled, as I do not care for them (just my personal preference). But as I stated earlier and akirby just mentioned, they are enabled by a simple re-programming in the SJB (Smart Junction Box). The Service Technician simply needs to plug the vehicle into the Ford System and scroll through the menu to the proper option. Many (well, some) Edge/MKX/Fusion/Milan/MKZ vehicle owners have already had it done. Unfortunately as I stated earlier, some Dealer Service Departments are more educated than others. If your Dealer is not willing to contact Ford to learn the correct procedure, you may want to try another Dealership. Also, if I remember correctly, a member in another forum I am a member of posted the correct procedure (it still requires the Dealership though, even if you know the procedure). If I can find the how-to, I will post it here (so you can tell your Dealer how to do their job). Maybe they should do it for free, once you educate them! Good luck. :beerchug:

Accidental double post. Sorry!

Hi Ky Bob. :D Did you know that you can have your Dealer enable the DRL's (Daytime Running Lights) on your vehicle? If you really want DRL's, it is done with a simple reprogramming of the SJB (Smart Junction Box). If your Dealers Service Department is one of the lazy/incompetent ones that states they do not know how (or it can't be done), go to another Ford or Lincoln-Mercury Dealership. It is already an established fact that the reprogram can be easily accomplished by the Dealership. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi druck. :D I never mentioned the Owners Manual in this thread, so not sure what that was about. But nevertheless, since the agreed upon recommendation is for MKXfan to bring his vehicle in for diagnosis and service, let's leave it at that and move on. Hopefully MKXfan will post back with the results of his service visit so others can learn from his experience. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. :D Our truce is already in effect! :grouphug: Good luck my friend! :beerchug:

Okay! Good luck Steve. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. :D I will accept the truce as I am sure we both have better things to do. But let's not try to fog the issue by making false statements. My stance has been the same throughout our discussion. If you want a truce, make it a truce and not a firing of last shots. Since you expressed some last thoughts, so will I (but no cheap shots from me). I will again state that the information I provided was not from the Owners Manual (no matter how many times you try to say the opposite). It is from official Ford literature and shop manuals describing the function of the 6F (and Aisin) trans in the current Edge. And even if it was from an Owners Manual, that is certainly more reliable than a non-professional "opinion". My information is from Ford, not my "opinion". Yet it would seem you want people to take your "opinion" over Ford's official literature. That again, is your right. But I feel the need to warn people not to do something that could damage their car. Once I do that, they are free to do as they please. That is their right, once all of the information has been presented. And without going into needless and unverifiable detail, even my opinion would be a professional one. But I did not express my opinion, only quotes from official Ford literature (no not the Owners Manual :hysterical2: ). And as I stated earlier, you are certainly entitled to your opinion, as we all are. I am simply providing hard evidence to those who may wonder whether they should drive around with their O/D turned off in normal driving. I provide that service so that they do not do something that may damage their transmission. I bring some real world experience to this subject, as I had a friend who drove around in normal day to day driving with O/D turned off (last year of Monte Carlo production, I believe a 2006 or 2007)) He soon had transmission trouble and his Warranty claim was denied when he innocently mentioned what he had done (drove all the time with O/D turned off for the "sporty" feel ), since the transmission is not meant to handle that type of constant stress. And if I ever need to send someone for an off the cuff opinion, I will certainly send them to you. No hard feelings Steve. Or should I say lighten up buddy? :shades: (couldn't resist that, but I am just kidding) Now that we have both fired off our last shots, shall we let the truce begin! :grouphug: And good luck. :beerchug: EDITED _ To add lots of fun little smiley icons. Just love those things!

Hi carcondo. :D No contradiction, and if anyone wondering would simply read their Owners Manual it is clearly explained. And I certainly do not mind you asking questions since it was done in a polite manner. That goes for anyone. When I stated that it does not change the shift program, I was referring to the fact that it does not change the programming to a "Sport Mode" (or a "sporty" mode either). I have copied and pasted from Ford's official literature concerning the 6F transmission, and the literature is similar for the Aisin transmission. When you turn off O/D , the transmission will hold gears longer when you let off of the gas. In other words, it will not upshift as when it is in O/D, since by turning off O/D and engaging "Grade Assist", you are telling the transmission that you are driving up or down a large grades, mountainous roads. That is not a sport mode, and it is not "Sporty". It is used to slow down the car through engine braking. Quite the opposite of "sporty". We can debate this back and forth for eons, or anyone wondering can simply look in their Owners manual for the correct information. As I copied and pasted earlier from Ford's literature, it is not a "Sport Mode" like a BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc etc. It is clearly explained what the O/D button does and what "Grade Assist is for (if the name is not clear enough for anyone to understand). Again, I quote in the bold and underlined text below: • Use when driving conditions cause excessive shifting from O/D to other gears. Examples: hilly terrain, mountainous areas and when engine braking is required. I am not sure how this can be any clearer. It is not a "sport mode". It is not for a "sporty feel". Whatever you want to call it, it is simply for driving on mountainous roads when added engine braking is needed. Added engine braking is obtained by keeping it in an artificially lower gear when your foot is off the gas. It is not to be used in normal everyday driving (unless you live in the Rockies ), as it will lead to added wear and tear on your transmission and engine. Is there any particular reason not to believe Ford's own description of the system? And let's not lose sight of why I replied in the first place, Stevea26 posted and told forum members, and I quote. "Try to drive with the O/D off. Its way different shift program. Kinda more sporty. The new ones dont even list it as "O/D off" in the IP it has a pic of a car going down hill. Whatever that means." As the information I have posted clearly explains, that should not be done, and is not what the O/D off function is for. So let's try to keep somewhat on subject as to what my replies are addressing. Again, this is Ford's description of what their system does, so unless people feel that Ford does not know what they produce I am not exactly sure why it is still being debated (not by you carcondo, you are simply asking for clarification). Just read the Owners Manual for corroboration. I have seen no information produced stating that Ford's information is incorrect, have you? Let's all be sensible for a moment, if someone produces written proof of a point, it is time to let it go. Well, the proof is here in writing. If someone disagrees, give back up evidence of the belief and I will be more than happy to read it in an unbiased manner. And as I explained to Steve, I treat people in a polite manner and expect the same treatment in return. There are already enough rude and sarcastic "debate champions" on the Internet. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi druck. :D And what exactly did I state that was wrong? A vehicle sitting on a Dealers lot will usually not have a build up of surface rust on the rotors that a few stops will not eliminate. Certainly not enough surface rust that it would not have been eliminated after 100 miles of driving. So, discounting outside variables such as his vehicle was sitting in a foot of water on the Dealers lot or all 100 miles on his odometer was highway driving with no brake applications, we both came up with the exact same conclusion: That it was most likely a rotor problem and that MKXfan should make a Service Appointment to have his concern diagnosed and taken care of under Warranty. Seems like both yours and my advice are pretty spot on, other than a possible slight disagreement about the final amount of rust that may/may not be on his rotors. And since neither of us will be able to verify the rust total over the Internet, do we really need to debate how much rust is/is not on MKXfan's rotors? As you certainly know from past experience, we already have enough of those types of members on the forums! So I still luv ya druck! And I will certainly respect you tomorrow too! :yup: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. Odd, I have been very polite to you, even in your other post where you also gave incorrect information (break-in oil). So perhaps you can afford me the same courtesy? And there has certainly been no "JOB' change to the Edge's 6F transmission concerning the O/D button function (as you last attempted to state). If there has been, please provide corroboration. Of course, there is none, so you might want to stick to the facts and skip the silly sarcasm, since it does not change or deflect from the fact that your information is incorrect. "Grade Assist" is exactly that, to be used to assist in hilly and mountainous road conditions. Not for a sporty feel in regular driving. Because it is not "sportier at all. It is holding the gear choice artificially low and therefore the RPM's artificially high for engine braking purposes. And do you know what that does? It places added wear and tear on your transmission and engine. This is automotive knowledge 101. Do it with your car if you wish, but if someone tells others to do something with a high potential of damaging their car it, I will offer the correct information every time. Whether that gets them "worked up" or not. For your information, I am not reading, scanning or posting from my Owners Guide. A quick look at my signature and you may be able to figure that out. Odd that even if I was, reading from the handbook for your own vehicle gets you worked up, especially when it proves you wrong. :shades: However, I am copying and pasting from official Ford documentation concerning the 6F Transmission in the Edge/MKX. And by the way, this information corroborates what is in that Owners Guide that you seem to so despise. The word "sporty" does not get me "worked up' in the least. Drive around town with O/D off for a while for a week or two in your "Sporty feeling" Edge and then we can all read your posts concerning your transmission problems. The "Overdrive Off/Grade Assist" settings are just that, to be used for driving in hilly and mountainous terrain when added engine braking is needed. It is certainly not the cure for the transmission concerns others are posting about. Someone telling others incorrect information does not even get me "worked up". However, when someone (in this case you) posts incorrect information which could potentially cause premature transmission problems/failure for others, then I will correct them. Go back and read your posts, you recommended that people drive their cars with O/D off. If someone who does not know much about transmissions follows your advice and does that regularly in normal driving, they will soon damage their transmission. The Edge and MKX have an O/D button. It is meant only for the purpose of turning off the Overdrive function for driving in situations needing added engine braking (Grade Assist). Not for a "sporty feel". It is no sportier than driving a manual transmission car around town in the wrong gear (too low all the time). Higher RPM's and more engine noise do not make a car "sporty". It only "downshifts less" because it is not upshifting at the correct time (for normal driving). And that is because the transmission thinks you are driving in the mountains. Do that very often and you will be replacing your transmission in short order. Again, please post some type of corroborating evidence for your "opinion". I have and it proves your "opinion" incorrect. And please afford others the same courtesy they do you, especially when they provide proof of their side of the story and you do not. I always treat others with the same respect they treat me. Wrong or right.

Hi Steve. :D The information I posted is not from "my book". It is official Ford information. I am sorry, but you are incorrect. No JOB change has reprogrammed the O/D button. The O/D button simply locks out Overdrive and provides additional engine braking (Ford calls it "Grade Assist"). It is not a "kinda sporty" shift program. This has been the case from the Introduction of the Edge/MKX until the present time. No Ford vehicle has a "Sport Mode" transmission or anything resembling it, especially not the Edge/MKX. The O/D button simply locks out Overdrive and provides additional engine braking for towing and long downhill driving. That is all. This information is easily verifiable, and I have done so. Here is the official Ford description of what the O/D button does in the Edge/MKX (bold and underlined): D (Drive) with Overdrive Cancel and Grade Assist Pressing the transmission control switch on the side of the gearshift lever activates two features at the same time: Overdrive Cancel and Grade Assist. 1. Overdrive Cancel • Overdrive is deactivated. • The transmission operates in gears one through five. • The O/D OFF lamp in the instrument cluster is illuminated. 2. Grade Assist • Improves driving experience in hilly terrain or mountainous areas by providing additional grade (engine) braking and extends lower gear operation on uphill climbs. • Provides additional engine braking through the automatic transmission shift strategy which reacts to vehicle inputs (vehicle acceleration, accelerator pedal, brake pedal and vehicle speed). • Allows the transmission to select gears that will provide the desired engine braking based on the vehicle inputs mentioned above. This will increase engine RPM during engine braking. Overdrive Cancel with Grade Assist is designed to provide optimal gear selection in hilly terrain or mountainous areas. It is recommended that you return to O/D (overdrive mode) on flat terrain to provide the best fuel economy and transmission function. • Use when driving conditions cause excessive shifting from O/D to other gears. Examples: hilly terrain, mountainous areas and when engine braking is required. To return to O/D (overdrive mode), press the transmission control switch again. • The O/D OFF lamp in the instrument cluster will not be illuminated. • The transmission will operate in gears one through six. O/D (overdrive mode) is automatically returned each time the key is turned off. If you notice, it specifically states to "• Use when driving conditions cause excessive shifting from O/D to other gears. Examples: hilly terrain, mountainous areas and when engine braking is required." While it alters the shift strategy by locking out Overdrive, it most certainly is not a "sporty"mode that is meant for everyday driving. Ford makes it clear that it is for driving in mountainous and hilly terrain. Driving around with it on more than that will damage the transmission. If you still disagree, please supply some sort of link or copy and paste (as I just did) to a site verifying your information. I mean no offense, but there will be no site stating otherwise. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi thehume. :D Ah ha! One of those good news/bad news deals. The good news is the TPMS warning light came on, so now you know that your TPMS system is working. The bad news is your TPMS system is working, so now you have the TPMS warning light lit all the time. Like you said, we have to be careful what we wish for! Well, Happy New Year anyway! Good luck. :beerchug: PS - I agree and also find it curious.

Hi MKXfan. :D While the "grinding" sound you first heard was likely surface rust on the rotors (as the Salesman stated), that rust would have been gone after the first two or three stops (at the most). And just as an FYI: You will get that surface rust again if your vehicle sits unused for a full day or two, or in very humid wet weather. Just the way it is. However, at this point the pulsating feeling in the steering wheel would not be from rust on the rotors. When you can feel a "pulsating" feeling in the steering wheel during braking that goes away when you are not braking, it is most often a warped front brake rotor or rotors. If you feel the "pulsation" in the brake pedal (or the seat of your pants) but not the steering wheel, it would likely be the rear rotors that are the culprit I would recommend you make a Service Appointment and take your MKX in so the problem can be diagnosed and corrected. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi David. :D If you take a look a few threads down from this one in the "Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX Discussion" sub-forum, you will see another topic with the title "Horrible smell from vents". Some forum members have expressed their opinions there concerning the same or a similar complaint. There are numerous possibilities and it could be any of them. Your best bet would be to schedule a Service Appointment at your Dealer and take it in to be diagnosed and repaired if necessary. In the end, Internet diagnosis is iffy at its best, and worthless at its worst. It is just a bunch of educated guesses (or plain old guesses). If your 2008 Edge has less than 36,000 miles, it is still covered under the Bumper to Bumper Warranty. Let us know what they find and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. :D I first want to offer my advance apologies before I go on with this reply. I do not want it to seem as though I am picking on you, since this is the second time tonight that I am correcting you. It is just that we should all have the correct information. So again, my apologies in advance. That being said upfront, I need to point out that our Owners Manuals clearly explain the following information: The Factory oil fill is a "normal oil". It is the same 5W-20 Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic oil that we can all buy in any Automotive store. It is not a "break-in oil". And it is not a "thin oil". In fact, the Edge Owners Manual clearly states not to use any type of break-in oils or friction modifiers, especially during the break-in period (approximately the first 1,000 miles). However, you are correct that the factory fill should not be left in any longer than what the Maintenance Schedule states. And that is a "Normal Schedule" of 7,500 miles/6 months, and a "Severe Duty" or "Towing" schedule of 5,000 miles/6 months. To carry your statement a step further, no oil should be left in for longer than the Maintenance Schedule states. Doing so can be damaging to your engine and void any engine related Warranty claims (as thau818 unfortunately found out). If anyone doubts the information stated above, they can check their Owners Manual for corroboration. I am only posting this correction so that all of our fellow forum members have the correct information. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. :D I just want to correct a misconception here: As our Owners Manuals clearly explain, when you turn O/D (Overdrive) off, you change absolutely nothing in the shift program other than locking out Overdrive. It does not change the shift program in any other way. In other words, it is not a "way different shift program". Nor is it a "more sporty" program. The transmission should be left in Overdrive for most all driving conditions other than Towing, maybe around town on occasion, or when extra engine braking may be needed. One such use would be to help keep from overheating the brakes when driving down long mountainous roads. That is why the icon is a "pic of a car going down a hill". If a person drives on the highway with O/D turned off, all they will be doing is using more gas (due to the higher RPM's when Overdrive is off) and putting more wear and tear on their engine and transmission. This is why O/D should be left on in most driving conditions other than the ones described in the Owners Manual. I only mention this so people do not get the wrong idea about what O/D is and when it should be left on/turned off. Driving around with O/D off, especially in highway driving conditions could be harmful to your transmission and engine (unnecessarily high RPM's). If anyone doubts this information, please check your Owners Manual for corroboration. All of this is explained in the Owners Manual. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 91renegade. :D I do not know the prices off the top of my head. Also, you do not mention if you have an Edge or MKX, the model year, what size and style wheel it is equipped with, which cap etc. However, you can call your local Ford (or Lincoln-Mercury) Dealer Parts Department and ask them for a price quote. They will most likely quote you the MSRP (Retail) price. You can also try one of these online Ford Parts Wholesalers, where you may be able to obtain a better price: LINK:Team Ford Parts LINK: Direct Ford Parts You can either search their online parts databases for the price, or call them. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi blockisle9. :D Not sure what type of engine you are coming from before the Edge, but DOHC (Double Over-Head Cam) engines do have bit more "ticking" noise in the top of the engine, especially while they are cold and especially compared to OHV (Over-Head Valve) or SOHC (Single Over-Head Cam) engines. If you read your Owners Manual, it will also mention this. Of course, we can not hear the noise you are describing so it is difficult to tell you whether it is normal or excessive. So it would not be a bad idea to mention it to the Service Manager during your next service visit. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi thau919. :D I am very sorry to hear about your misfortune, but I am not sure what your question is. Are you asking if it is possible for an engine to fail after not changing or checking (?) the oil for 15,000 miles? Yes it is possible. Are you asking if it is possible that Ford would not cover an engine replacement on a vehicle that did not have proper (or possibly any) regular maintenance performed for 15,000 miles? Yes that is also possible. Or are you asking if it is possible for a new engine to cost $10,000? Well, the price sounds a bit high to me, but I am not completely familiar with the price of installing a new 3.5L engine in an Edge, so it may be possible that the price is that high. What is certain is the following: The recommended "Normal" oil change interval for the Edge is every 7,500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. The oil change interval for an Edge used for heavy stop and go driving, towing, severe duty etc. is every 5,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. So according to how your wife drove the car, it should have had at least 3 oil changes performed in the last year and a half. Unfortunately, it had none performed. Let me make it clear that I am expressing no personal judgment as to how your wife maintained her new Edge, nor am I trying to give you a hard time or pile onto an already bad situation . All I am doing is giving you the facts according to the information you provided. Unfortunately, in this case the Dealer/Ford is perfectly within their rights to refuse Warranty coverage for a vehicle which was not properly maintained. All you can do is appeal to Ford or the BBB Autoline Program. The instructions concerning how to do that are contained in the Warranty Guide Booklet you were given when you purchased your new Edge. Or you can give the shop that told you they could fix it for $700 a shot at fixing it. Maybe you will get lucky and it is not a blown engine. It is unlikely you can take it to another Ford Dealer for Warranty repairs at this point, as the lack of maintenance is already noted in your vehicle records. Also, I am curious as to how the Dealer determined that no oil changes were performed in a year and a half? And how much oil was actually remaining in the vehicle when it was brought to the Dealer? I wish you the best of luck. :beerchug:

Hi scrief. :D Next time you hear the whine, pull over in a safe area. Get out of the car and see if you can ascertain where the noise is coming from. If it seems to be coming from the rear of the vehicle, there is a very good chance it is the fuel pump, as there is not much else that could be making a noise from that area in a non-moving car. Either way, fuel pump or not your best bet is to make a service appointment to have the problem diagnosed. At best, Internet diagnosis is very inaccurate. At worst, it is completely worthless. In the mean time, check all the fluid levels and top them off if necessary. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi wthrower. :D Use this Wheel Offset Calculator to figure your fit out: LINK: Wheel Offset Calculator Simply plug in the wheel width and offset of your Factory stock wheels, then plug in the wheel width and offset of the wheels you are thinking of installing. The offset calculator will then show the inner clearance and outer position of the new wheels versus the old wheels. Hope this helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Ky Bob. :D $500 is too high. You should be able to purchase the Ford starter and have it installed for less than $400, at the most. Shop around at a few other Dealerships. You can use Ford or Lincoln-Mercury Dealers. Concerning the question of "Would an aftermarket remote starter void the warranty?" Well maybe yes, maybe no. Just having an aftermarket starter installed would not void any area of your Warranty. However, if you should later have any sort of problem (electrical or otherwise) that can even remotely be traced back to the aftermarket remote starter or the quality of the installation, then the answer would be yes. Any problem that can be related to the aftermarket installation in any way may be used to void Warranty coverage for the problem it may have caused. Of course, this depends on the attitude of the Dealership, the severity of the problem, what time the high tide is that day, etc etc. In other words, some Dealers are tougher on the customer than others concerning aftermarket parts and modifications. And of course, Ford has its say also. So if Warranty work needs prior approval from Ford, there is also the chance their Regional Representative may deny coverage. On the other hand it will not completely void your Warranty. Any problems that are not related to the remote starter would still be eligible for Warranty coverage. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi thehume. :D Internet diagnosis is always an iffy proposition, but since you have no sensors on your wheels and the TPMS warning light is not illuminating, it would seem there may be a TPMS problem. Your car should still be under Warranty (being a 2008) so I would recommend making a service appointment when you have a chance. No rush, since you are driving without the sensors anyway. However, it is hard to know for sure, since some owners report that the warning light does not illuminate until after up to 20 minutes of continuous driving. Have you driven that far (in one straight trip) since you switched wheels? If you haven't, that may be the problem. If you have driven the vehicle for more than 30 continuous minutes (just adding an arbitrary 10 minute cushion) and the light has not illuminated there may be a problem. However, only the Dealer will be able to accurately diagnose that. If you have not yet driven the vehicle for more than 30 continuous minutes, I would do so before wasting time on a service trip. Let us know, and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kanatronic. :D Let me state upfront that I am not trying to be a wiseguy and that I am not particularly interested in Internet debates, nor am I a member of the forum to debate or argue with people.. Also, you seem like a sincere, well intentioned forum member who is honestly interested in his vehicle. That being said, most of the information you state above is quite incorrect, and if you read my previous post above carefully, the answers were all there. You can corroborate any of the information I or others have provided by doing a quick Internet search concerning fuel Octane. And as opposed to us having to provide research to you proving our point of view, I would ask that you provide "any real data, any real info to share from any manufacturer." No auto manufacturer or gasoline manufacturer will tell you to use a premium fuel in a vehicle that does not have an Engine Management system programmed to take advantage of it. If you can find one that does, please provide a link to that information. In the meantime, all you need to so is read your Owners Manual for proof that what we said is correct. Premium fuel (any Octane above 87) is a waste of money and can cause problems in the Edge/MKX engine. It will give no performance or MPG gain. This is printed in the Owners Manual. Sorry for the repetition, but I can not state it any clearer than I already had. Sheesh, I posted that reply two months ago, and now I have to get drawn into this silly discussion that you are having with akirby in the other thread? Unfortunately Kanatronic, akirby is correct and you are mistaken. I was staying out of your debate with him (sorry akirby) because I could see that you were really not open to the information he and others were providing, and I do not enjoy wasting time debating an obvious point that can be easily researched by reading the Edge Owners Manual or with a few minutes on the Internet. It is as simple as reading your Owners Manual to get the answers to your questions, if you do not believe what I and others (like akirby) have tried to explain. If you read your Owners Manual, you will find that Ford specifically tells us to use 87 Octane fuel, that there will be no benefit from higher Octane, and that use of a higher Octane can cause problems to the engine management system. I am not sure what other proof you need, but if you need further proof all you have to do is some basic Internet research. Any Auto Manufacturer or Automotive Engineer will tell you the same thing. And every major gasoline manufacturer will also tell you the same thing. They will all tell you to use the Octane recommended by your vehicles manufacturer. It is as simple as that. Here is a partial copy and paste from the Edge Owners Manual (bold and underlined): Octane recommendations Your vehicle is designed to use “Regular” unleaded gasoline with pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87. We do not recommend the use of gasolines labeled as “Regular” that are sold with octane ratings of 86 or lower in high altitude areas. Do not be concerned if your engine sometimes knocks lightly. However, if it knocks heavily under most driving conditions while you are using fuel with the recommended octane rating, see your authorized dealer to prevent any engine damage. 87 (R+M)/2 METHOD Maintenance and Specifications Fuel quality If you are experiencing starting, rough idle or hesitation driveability problems, try a different brand of unleaded gasoline. “Premium” unleaded gasoline is not recommended for vehicles designed to use “Regular” unleaded gasoline because it may cause these problems to become more pronounced. If the problems persist, see your authorized dealer. As you can see, it clearly states not to use "Premium" fuel. To point out some of your errors in information, I would address just a few of the things you say in this sentence above: "I would like that any member with real info, maybe statistics, data, will illustrate us in how a high grade gas that is supposed to burn slower, at lower temperatures, and in a more uniform and efficient way, with less turbulence and less explosions, creating less carbon and deposits, and offering a better emission spectrum will damage or cause any adverse effect on an engine designed to be run with 87 octane?" First, higher Octane fuels need a higher temperature to burn, not a lower one. That is why they are more resistant to pre-detonation. Higher Octane, Premium fuels are needed in higher performance, higher compression ratio engines. They do not "burn slower", and they do not burn at a "lower temperature", they simply resist pre-detonation. They resist burning. They do not burn "with less turbulence and less explosions". They do not create "less carbon and deposits", nor do they affect emissions in any way. The fact that they resist pre-ignition (or ignition) is why they can cause problems (including engine deposits) when used in engines not optimized for higher Octane (like the Edge/MKX). If you use Shell 87 Octane, you will be getting the same additive packages as far as engine detergents etc, that you get in Shell 93 Octane. The same goes for Amoco, Exxon, etc. The only time that detergent additive package will vary is with off brand, bargain gasolines. The only difference in additives in Premium fuels are the additives that are needed to make the fuel resistant to pre-detonation. That additive used to simply be lead. Now, due to Environmental concerns, it is no longer lead. But the Premium additives do nothing other than resist pre-detonation. They do not burn cleaner, slower, with less explosions, less turbulence, etc, etc, etc. There is no benefit to using higher Octane fuels other than to resist pre-detonation. That information is readily available to you or anyone else with a simple Google. If a vehicles Engine Management system is not programmed to take advantage of higher Octane, it is a waste of money. And the Edge/MKX Engine management system is not programmed to use any fuel with an Octane higher than 87 Octane. Again, that information is printed right in the Owners Manual. Next, you may be "not sure if the manufacturers, fight or not to get tenths out of the MPG ratings", but those of us more familiar with the Automotive industry are sure that they do, so the fact that you are not sure does not change the reality. You can not use the fact that you are not sure about something to try and prove a point. That just is not very logical nor sensible. It is a fact that they spend millions of dollars to try and engineer their engines to get as many MPG's as possible. So if using a higher Octane would help get better fuel mileage in the Edge/MKX, they would tell us to use a higher Octane. Next, you state that "BTW not sure what the big deal in the manual ratings is now, AFAIK many domestic cars, and even imported had always recommended 87 or higher in their manuals for years, that is not new at all, what is all the sudden fuzz now about that, is that really new???" There is no "sudden fuzz". You asked a question in this thread about fuels and your high mileage Taurus, and I answered. It makes no sense to not follow the Owners Manual recommendation just because it is what has been recommended for years. Ford tells us that 87 Octane is the recommended fuel, and not to use a higher Octane. What else do you need to know? If you wish to continue using 89, 91 or 93 Octane, go ahead. It is your right to do so. However, your Owners Manual tells you not to, Ford tells you not to, and the Gasoline Manufacturers tell you not to. The fact that you worked at a gas station for a time when you were a kid is completely irrelevant to these facts. Gasoline technology and production has changed dramatically in the intervening years. Essentially, for you to be correct, you would have us believe that every Auto Manufacturer, respected Automotive expert and gasoline Manufacturer is lying, and we should believe your "information" instead of what they tell us. Well, I am not ready to make that leap. If you feel that any of this information is incorrect, you should really contact Ford and the Gasoline Manufacturers to debate it with them. Again, I am not trying to be a wiseguy, just trying to waste as little time as possible trying explaining the realities of Octane and fuel usage to you. Nothing I wrote was meant to be insulting in any way, and my underlined and bold sections are only meant to emphasize areas I consider important, not as "Internet yelling". I have simply tried to address the most erroneous statements you made in your last post and explain the true facts. No Auto Manufacturer or Fuel Manufacturer agrees with your point of view, and some simple research is all that is needed to realize that fact. Sorry, I know I repeated some variation of the phrase "if you read your Owners Manual" a dozen times or more, but it is a phrase that needs repeating. If you feel more comfortable using "Premium" fuels, feel free to do so. But the facts are readily available for anyone (including you) who is willing to research them. Good luck and I hope you have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. :beerchug: