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Hi end. :D Those are not HID bulbs. They are simply a halogen bulb (same bulb as what is in your car now) with a blue tint on the glass. You can not get HID lighting by just plugging some aftermarket bulb in. You need the ballasts and other electronics. Essentially, due to the blue tint on those bulbs, you will have less light than a regular bulb. Think of it as the same situation as a pair of sunglasses: Any tint on the bulb glass will filter out light, the same way that sunglasses filter out light. You would be wasting your money buying those bulbs. That is a short explanation. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Edgeowner2007. :D Comments? Well, you purchased a used vehicle. Did you purchase it from a Dealer or a private individual? Was it a CPO (Certified Pre-Owned) vehicle? Did it come with any sort of Dealer Warranty? Have you expressed your concerns about the brakes to the Dealer? Have you checked the brake fluid level? Have you checked the condition of the brake pads, or had the Dealer check them? Have you checked the condition of the rotors or had the Dealer check them? You purchased a used vehicle, so it is entirely possible the brakes were abused by the previous owner/owners, or there could be some other sort of defect that needs correction. Your concerns about the brakes should be expressed to the Dealer so they can check for any problems. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dbolton. :D I will try to answer your questions the best I can in a short reply. But there is much more information in your Owners Manual (when you get it) than I can copy and paste here. Several pages alone (plus diagrams and charts), just concerning the airbags. So first things first. You can download a PDF version of your Owners Manual, Maintenance Schedule and Warranty Guide here: LINK: Owners Manuals Fill in the drop down boxes and click "Submit". Then click on "Owners Guide". Next, to answer your questions: 1 - No, the "Passenger Airbag Off" light will not stay on when there is no passenger in the seat. However, you are correct that if there is no passenger, the airbag will not inflate in an accident, The "Passenger Airbag Off" light will always momentarily illuminate when you start the car, but then it will normally go out. It will not stay illuminated when there is no passenger in the seat. So just because there is "no passenger in the seat" is not one of the occasions when that light illuminates. Here is a short copy and paste: Note: The indicator lamp will illuminate for a short period of time when the ignition is turned to the ON position to confirm it is functional. When the front passenger seat is not occupied (empty seat) or in the event that the front passenger frontal airbag is enabled (may inflate), the indicator lamp will be unlit. 2 - The heated mirrors switch on when you turn on the rear defroster, and turn off when the rear defroster is turned off. 3 - That button is your AdvanceTrac with RSC button. Part of the entire "AdvanceTrac with RSC" is Traction Control. The AdvanceTrac (and Traction Control) is always activated when you start the car. Pushing the button deactivates Traction Control. Pushing it again, while it is turned off reactivates it Your wife (and most people) should simply leave the button alone and leave the Traction Control on. The only time the Traction Control should be turned off is when someone needs to spin their wheels. Since the need for spinning wheels is extremely limited to certain situations (i.e. trying to get out of deep snow or mud), always leaving the AdvanceTrac System (and the Traction Control) on is the best thing to do. So telling her to leave the button alone is the best course of action. Be sure that your Dealership furnishes you with your copy of the Owners Manual. There is tons of information covering your new Edge, much more than could ever be conveyed here. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jlineman. :D Unfortunately, the incomplete advice of "disconnecting the battery to reset the PCM/TCM" is sometimes offered for various problems. It is not as simple as that, and the rest of the proper process is usually left out. This is a copy and paste from the Edge Owners Manual (bold and underlined): Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer, some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and performance. To begin this process: 1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake. 2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the engine. 3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. 4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. • The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy. • If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is eventually relearned. If the battery has been disconnected or a new battery has been installed, the clock and radio settings must be reset once the battery is reconnected. Concerning the TCM (Transmission Control Module) relearning the shift process, the Owners Manual states the following (again, bold and underlined): When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the automatic transmission must relearn its shift strategy. As a result, the transmission may have firm and/or soft shifts. This operation is considered normal and will not affect function or durability of the transmission. Over time, the adaptive learning process will fully update transmission operation. As you can see, disconnecting the battery will reset certain engine and transmission parameters, but there is a particular process that must be followed afterward which allows the engine to relearn the proper idle and fuel trim strategies. The transmission will relearn on it's own, over time. If you are going to try it, at least follow the proper instructions as explained in the Owners Manual. And just as an FYI, I would always recommend that everyone always check their Owners Manual for information before following anyone's Internet advice (and that would also include any advice I give). It does not hurt to ask for advice on a Forum, just use common sense (as you did by double checking the advice you received). Often times, Internet advice (like advice from family and/or friends) is well intentioned, but not always correct. Heck, if you think about it, unless you double-check the Owners Manual yourself, how do you even know whether what I wrote above is correct or not? Finally, let me add that this advice is not meant to insult anyone (including CreamEdge and ablb, who were only trying to help). Everyone here is very helpful, I just always advise double checking the Owners Manual for the proper information. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Rob. :D Welcome, and congratulations on your new Edge! Glad to see you have a sense of humor! The forums have been a bit slow lately and even that much slower now that the holidays are near. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kontra. :D Just a word of advice. No one should have to put up with a "noisy car", or a car with excessive squeaks, rattles and crackles. Do not fall for that "The Edge is a noisy car to begin with" garbage. That is the standard type of reply that lazy Service Department Staffs give when they don't feel like spending time troubleshooting a problem. Most Service Departments and Staff members are very good at their jobs. Unfortunately there are some exceptions, and you may have run into one of those exceptions. If it was the Service Writer who told you that line of bull, ask to speak to the Service Manager next time. If it was the Service Manager, ask to speak to the Dealers General Manager. And if you get no relief there, take your Edge to another Ford Dealership. Let us know how you make out, and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kontra. :D Since you do not mention it being looked at by the Dealer a year ago (or more recently), is it safe to assume you never brought your Edge in an attempt to have the original problem diagnosed and repaired (before the windshield actually cracked)? If that is the case, it's a shame. There is no reason to have to "deal with" a problem concerning our vehicles. That is why we have a Bumper to Bumper Warranty (3 years/36,000 miles). You paid good money for your vehicle, and the Warranty is included in that price. No reason not to take advantage of it. Here is what I would recommend at this point: Was it a Ford Dealer that did the windshield replacement or an aftermarket vendor? If it was a Ford owned Dealership, return to the Dealership and demonstrate the "crackle" sound to them. Do not mention that you had the "crackle" problem before the windshield was replaced (unless you had already told them previously, then do not lie if they ask), just let them diagnose and repair the problem now. If it was an aftermarket vendor that replaced the windshield, and they say the problem is not caused by the new windshield installation, get them to put the reason the noises are occurring in writing, then go back to your Ford Dealership and have them diagnose and repair the problem under Warranty. Again, if you did not already do so, do not mention that you already had a "crackle" noise problem before the repair. You actually should have done that a year ago when you first noticed the sound, but let's try and get it taken care of now under Warranty. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kanatronic. :D I am not sure whether your reply was referring to the "Miles to Empty" reading or not, but just as an FYI: Resetting the "counters" will not affect the "Miles to Empty" reading at all. While you can reset the "Average MPG's", "Average MPH", Trip Odometers, etc, you can not reset the "Miles to Empty". And resetting the other stored calculations will not change/affect the "Miles to Empty" reading. Only driving will. Other than driving, the only way to change the "Miles to Empty" reading is to disconnect the battery. By disconnecting the battery, the "Miles to Empty" reading will revert back to a "Factory default value". This number will then readjust to your own drivng habits over time. As 08ltdawdbc mentioned, here is the copy and paste (bold and underlined) concerning the "Miles to Empty" reading from the Owners Manual: Distance to empty (DTE) Selecting this function from the INFO menu estimates approximately how far you can drive with the fuel remaining in your tank under normal driving conditions. Remember to turn the ignition OFF when refueling to allow this feature to correctly detect the added fuel. The DTE function will display LOW FUEL LEVEL when you have approximately 50 miles (80 km) to empty. If you RESET this warning message, this display will return within 10 minutes. DTE is calculated using a running average fuel economy, which is based on your recent driving history of 500 miles (800 km). This value is not the same as the average fuel economy display. The running average fuel economy is reinitialized to a factory default value if the battery is disconnected. I hope this information helps make the way the system works more understandable. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - If your reply was not referring to the "Miles to Empty' reading, just ignore all of the above! But hopefully it may help someone else with similar questions concerning the way the Information Center works.

Hi Rav. :D Have you brought it to the Service Department at your Ford Dealership? If it is a 2008, it should still be under Warranty (unless you have an unusual amount of miles on it). That would mean that any bulb replacements would be covered under Warranty. In this way, if the bulb housing/socket is defective, it will also be replaced. If for some reason you do not want to go back to the Dealership, the only help I can offer is the directions that are in the Owners Manual (copied and pasted below): Replacing high-mount brake lamp bulbs Your vehicle is equipped with an LED center high-mount stop lamp. It is designed to last the life of the vehicle. If replacement is required, see your authorized dealer. Replacing license plate lamp bulbs 1. Make sure the headlamp switch is in the OFF position. 2. Depress the lever and carefully pry the license plate lamp assembly (located above the license plate) from the liftgate. 3. Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove from lamp assembly. 4. Pull bulb straight out of socket and push in the new bulb. 5. Install the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and rotate clockwise. 6. To install, carefully press the lamp assembly into liftgate. I'm not sure if you already checked the Owners Manual or not (a lot of people don't), so figured I would offer the instructions. There is also a basic diagram in the Owners Manual. I hope these help. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi blockisle9. :D To my knowledge, you would have an easier time finding this type of information if you were to ask your local Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealers Service Department staff who they use for audio installation. Most Dealers will work with a local Installer for these types of automotive modifications. I am not so sure that there would be a readily available national list of "Authorized Audio Installers". This is more the type of situation where local Dealers would arrange their own contractual agreements with local Audio Installation Companies. If I am mistaken, hopefully another forum member will be able to furnish some company names for you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi kanatronic. Not trying to debate it with you. I was only trying to help. As I stated, you had not mentioned that you already looked into harnesses at Crutchfield, so I threw the name out there. It is your car and you have the right to do whatever you feel like. Good luck.

Hi Kanatronic. That is your choice, and you have the right to do as you please. You did not mention that you had already priced the harness at Crutchfield (as far as I saw). If I had known that bit of information, I wouldn't have mentioned the option. Whatever you decide to do, good luck.

Hi Fouts. :D It is simply a case of the Climate Control System being improved to make the driver and passenger more comfortable. The HVAC system has been optimized in an attempt to bring heat to the passenger compartment in a faster and more efficient manner. It is also a byproduct of automakers successful attempts to engineer their engines and engine management systems to reach normal operating temperatures as quickly as possible. by reaching normal operating temperature quickly, the catalytic converters warm up quiker, and the car will therefore emit less harmful pollutants. Thus the car can also get a better EPA rating. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi kanatronic. :D If you should change your mind and not want to cut your stock wiring, give Crutchfield a call (if you haven't already tried them). Or check online: LINK: Crutchfield They sell adapter harnesses for a large number of applications. Hopefully they will have one for your speakers. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Ted. :D First, welcome to the forums! Next, if my quick calculations are correct, that means you are achieving approximately 16 mpg in mostly city driving (according to the Dealers calculations). The EPA rates the AWD Edge at 15 mpg city, and 22 mpg highway. So you are achieving better than the EPA ratings. If your Edge is truly driven in heavy, constant stop and go city driving, your fuel mileage is pretty much spot on to what it should be. You mention that you have the AWD model. When it comes down to it, unfortunately the Edge is a large, heavy (and even worse in this case, AWD) vehicle. The laws of physics are against getting optimal fuel mileage. All other variables being equal, the more weight being propelled, the lower the fuel mileage will be. And again, the AWD only makes it that much worse than the FWD model. However, there are things that you can do to help. They have been mentioned on these forums many times, so I have taken the liberty of copying and pasting one of my previous posts concerning the subject (the bold and highlighted text below): In the list below, keep in mind that you can personally help yourself by adjusting how you do things, as explained in #'s 4,5,6,7,8,9 and 10: 1 - Your mileage may improve up to and over a 5,000 miles break-in period (you may be at that point already, but you do mention your odometer reading). 2 - Most areas of the country have now switched over to "winter fuel formulations" (oxygenated), which give lower MPG's. 3 - If you are in an area where the ambient temperatures are cold, that will adversely affect your MPG. Longer idle times to warm up. Richer fuel mixtures, etc. 4 - If you have the ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) HVAC system, do you normally drive with your HVAC controls set to "AUTO"? If you do, it is the equivalent of driving with your Air Conditioning on all of the time. It uses more gas and lowers your MPG's. Turn off the "AUTO" setting when not needed, and just use the heat/vent settings with the fan. 5 - The same goes for the front windshield defroster. If you drive around with it always on, the A/C compressor is always on and you use more gas. Turn it off unless needed. 6- Have you checked your tire pressure lately? If you have not, you should. For every 10F degree drop in ambient air temperature, your tires will lose 1-2 pounds of air pressure. For example: If your tires were last checked in September, and the temperature was 80F, and the temperature where you are now is 30F, your tires will have lost 5-10 PSI. And that 5-10 PSI loss does not even include the regular losses you can expect over time. Low tire pressure will decrease fuel mileage (and can be dangerous). If you do not already have one, purchase a good tire pressure gauge and inflate your tires to the cold pressure recommendation for your vehicle (about 34-35 PSI I believe) if not a pound or two higher. The Ford recommended pressure is on a sticker on the drivers side door jamb. 7 - Do not rely on the TPMS system (Tire Pressure Monitor System) to keep an eye on your tire pressures for you. It is not much more than a glorified "idiot light". By the time the TPMS warning light illuminates, your tire pressure is already dangerously low. In fact, the system does not even illuminate the warning light until you pressure is 25% below the recommended tire pressure (from the door jamb sticker). That is already dangerously low. So again, regularly check your tire pressure, manually, with a good quality tire pressure gauge. 8 - Alter your driving style to maximize MPG. Minimize idle time. Avoid jackrabbit starts and stops. Coast to stop signs and lights. Don't use the gas pedal/brake pedal as on-off buttons (I am not implying that you do, just making recommendations). 9 - Minimize the number of times you use a Remote Starter. 10 - If you do use a remote starter, try to minimize the amount of time you leave the car idling before you get in and drive away. Don't wait the full 10 minutes. There are not many more inefficient things than having your car sit still with no one in it, while it's idling and burning gas. To explain it in simplified terms, you are getting 0 MPG for 10 minutes. You will now need to get 20 mpg for the next 10 minutes of driving just to raise your MPG average up to 10 mpg for that amount of idling and driving time. Again, this is a simplified explanation, and the math is not exact in all situations, but it is close enough to make the point clear. These are just a few of the many things we can all do to try and help our MPG's. Looked at one at a time, they do not seem like much. But when added together, they make a significant impact on our gas mileage. Of course, you may already be doing some or all of these things. But if you are not, give them a try. Also, keep in mind that comparing fuel mileage over the Internet is a very inaccurate way of getting information. We have seen people claim they are getting 24-25 mpg with their AWD Edge in the city! Well, they may be getting 24-25 mpg, but it is not in true city driving. It is in what they consider to be city driving. And real city driving is very hard on fuel mileage and the EPA ratings attempt to take that into consideration. In the same way, we have seen people claim that they get well over 30 mpg from their Edge in highway driving. Well, maybe in an instant reading while coasting on downhill stretches of highway with a tailwind (I am exaggerating for effect ). But that is not how you accurately calculate fuel mileage ratings. They need to be calculated over long periods of time (and tankfuls) to be accurate. Of course, I am excluding "Hypermiling" and other extreme types of fuel saving/driving techniques from my examples. Anyway, I hope some of this information helps, and that your fuel mileage improves with time. Good luck Ted. :beerchug:

Hi rodgerruss. :D It is an easy do-it-yourself job. You unfasten and remove the rear tail lamp assembly to access the bulbs. The Owners Manual has detailed diagrams and directions on how to replace all of the bulbs, including the tail lamps. Your Manual may be different, but the 2008 PDF version has the directions for replacing the tail lamp bulbs on page 89. If they are not on page 89 in your Manual, just look in the Index under "Lamps", then "Replacing Bulbs". Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Sean. :D I agree 100% with IZZYAZ. Keep the Factory support and reinstall/swap it with the Tow Package bumper support before you turn your Lease in. Then you can possibly re-use the Tow Package if you Lease/buy another Edge. If you do not Lease/buy another Edge, you can always sell the Tow Package, and would likely get a better offer for the better equipment. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MKX2007. :D I understand exactly what your concern is and what you were stating in your first post. So please understand that I am trying to help you, not argue or debate the subject with you. You may be correct and there may be a problem, or the Information Center may be accurate. The only way to be sure is to compare the Information Center calculations to your own manual calculations and/or bring it to the Dealer and have them check the calibration for accuracy. Let me try to give this example: If you were to start your car and leave it sitting there idling for several hours, eventually your tank would run dry. You would not have driven a single mile, but during that the entire time, the "Miles to Empty' reading would keep changing, dropping mile by mile towards zero. When the tank eventually ran dry, your odometer would read the same as when you started the car. You would not have driven a single mile, but the "Miles to Empty" would eventually read zero. The "Miles to Empty" calculation is based solely on current fuel consumption and the amount of fuel in the fuel tank. And your current fuel consumption changes by the fraction of a second. By the same reasoning, the "Miles to Empty" reading really has absolutely nothing to do with how many miles you have actually driven. Does that help to explain how the "Miles to Empty" reading is completely independent of how far you have actually driven? This is very hard to try and explain to people, and the Owners Manual probably does a better job than I am doing. But I am giving it a shot anyway. As I asked earlier, do you keep a manual record of your MPG's, or do you simply use the Information Center figures? As it explains in the Owners Manual, the Information Center calculations are not precise figures and will vary according to many factors. If you would keep a manual reading of your fuel mileage for the next few tankfuls, you will be able to compare them to the Information Center and see whether it is inaccurate or not. It would also come in handy to have those figures to show the Service Department if you should decide that there is a problem that you need diagnosed by the Dealer. Again, this information is explained in the Owners Manual. Even driving the same route day after day can and will get varied fuel mileage according to numerous factors. If you read the Owners Manual section concerning the Information Center, you will have a much better understanding of how the system calculates its averages. Have you read the Owners Manual section concerning the Information Center? There are a lot of factors which will have an affect on your MPG's, far to many for me to try and list here. Just one example: If you had been driving around all summer long with the AC system set to "AUTO", and then turned it off recently (i.e. just before the "last 4" fill-ups), your MPG's will now be higher. This would be due to the fact that the "AUTO " setting is the equivalent of driving around with the AC compressor running all the time, and now you have it turned off. Therefore, your MPG's will increase. I am not saying that particular example is what has caused your problem, just giving one example. And again, the "Miles to Empty" reading does not tell you how many miles you have driven (that is what the trip odometers are for). It simply gives you an "approximation" ( I can not overemphasize the word "approximation") of how much further you may be able to drive if your fuel usage does not change (but it always does anyway). The "Miles to Empty" reading should more accurately be looked at as an extension of the gas gauge, not an extension of the odometer. In the end, what it all comes down to is this: If you truly believe you have problem with the Information Center being inaccurate, you should make a Service appointment. In the mean time, you should begin keeping a manual fuel mileage record of your MPG's to verify/back-up your concerns. Let us know how your figures come out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MKX2007. :D You have a misunderstanding of how the Information Center achieves its calculations. If you read the Owners Manual information concerning the Information Center, you may have a better understanding of how it arrives at its calculations. For example, it is natural and normal for the "Miles to Empty" figure to vary. It will depend on the average fuel economy you are recently achieving. Since your average fuel economy lately has risen (from 22.1 to 22.9), your "Miles to Empty" reading will also increase. It is the same story concerning how quickly the "Miles to Empty" reading drops as you drive. It drops according to real world driving at the moment. So if you are driving in stop and go traffic and getting 16 mpg, the reading will drop faster than normal, since the calculation was initially figured at whatever higher mileage you were averaging before (i.e. 22.9) and vice-versa. It will rarely drop the exact amount of your actual miles driven, because how you drive will vary from minute to minute, let alone day to day. This is all a bit hard to explain in a short forum reply, so again your best course of action would be to read your Owners Manual. It has several pages of information explaining how the Information Center works. You will have much better understanding of how it calculates its readings. Also, do you keep a manual history of your MPG's, by keeping track of how many actual gallons you refill the tank with versus the number of miles driven on the previous tankful of gas? If not, you should. It is the easiest way to verify the accuracy of the Information Center. If you do not do that now or are not sure how, it is also explained in the Owners Manual. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Dannys16. :D According to Abrannon's signature, he/she has a 2007 Edge. SYNC was not available. However, to answer your question concerning vehicles that are equipped with SYNC. Currently, it is not possible to keep the SYNC functions if the head unit is replaced. It is integral to the SYNC function. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ottawaedge. :D It is an unfortunate fluke, which you had the bad luck of experiencing. It is not a common problem. I hope they fix it correctly and completely this time. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi cuervoman. :D Personally, I am partial to BF Goodrich, Goodyear and Michelin tires, in no particular order. The Michelin Latitude is a very good tire. Have you checked The Tire Rack LINK: The Tire Rack, Discount Tire LINK: Discount Tire or Costco (if you are a member) LINK: Costco for pricing? I have found those three sites usually offer the best tire prices, even after any shipping charges are figured in. But of course, do not limit your shopping to just those three sellers. EDIT - Ford also states that they will beat your best price for certain tire brands. However, I have found (at least at my local Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealers) that they will only beat local tire retailer prices (not online sellers), they ask for an ad or written price quote etc. So check around. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi VapourSlvr. :D No there is no re-flash that will "counteract the thirstiness". However, there are some things that we can all do as drivers to help ourselves. And there are one or two things that we can not help, such as the "winter fuel formulations" (oxygenated gas) required by the EPA in the winter months. In the list below, keep in mind that you can personally help yourself by adjusting how you do things, as explained in #'s 4,5,6,7,8,9 and 10: 1 - Your mileage may improve up to and over a 5,000 miles break-in period (you are at that point). 2 - Most areas of the country have now switched over to "winter fuel formulations" (oxygenated), which give lower MPG's. 3 - If you are in an area where the ambient temperatures are cold, that will adversely affect your MPG. Longer idle times to warm up. Richer fuel mixtures, etc. 4 - If you have the ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) HVAC system, do you normally drive with your HVAC controls set to "AUTO"? If you do, it is the equivalent of driving with your Air Conditioning on all of the time. It uses more gas and lowers your MPG's. Turn off the "AUTO" setting when not needed, and just use the heat/vent settings with the fan. 5 - The same goes for the front windshield defroster. If you drive around with it always on, the A/C compressor is always on and you use more gas. Turn it off unless needed. 6- Have you checked your tire pressure lately? If you have not, you should. For every 10F degree drop in ambient air temperature, your tires will lose 1-2 pounds of air pressure. For example: If your tires were last checked in September, and the temperature was 80F, and the temperature where you are now is 30F, your tires will have lost 5-10 PSI. And that 5-10 PSI loss does not even include the regular losses you can expect over time. Low tire pressure will decrease fuel mileage (and can be dangerous). If you do not already have one, purchase a good tire pressure gauge and inflate your tires to the cold pressure recommendation for your vehicle (about 34-35 PSI I believe) if not a pound or two higher. The Ford recommended pressure is on a sticker on the drivers side door jamb. 7 - Do not rely on the TPMS system (Tire Pressure Monitor System) to keep an eye on your tire pressures for you. It is not much more than a glorified "idiot light". By the time the TPMS warning light illuminates, your tire pressure is already dangerously low. In fact, the system does not even illuminate the warning light until you pressure is 25% below the recommended tire pressure (from the door jamb sticker). That is already dangerously low. 8 - Alter your driving style to maximize MPG. Minimize idle time. Avoid jackrabbit starts and stops. Coast to stop signs and lights. Don't use the gas pedal/brake pedal as on-off buttons (I am not implying that you do, just making recommendations). 9 - Minimize the number of times you use the Remote Starter. 10 - When you do use the remote starter, try to minimize the amount of time you leave the car idling before you get in and drive away. Don't wait the full 10 minutes. There are not many more inefficient things than having your car sit still with no one in it, while it's idling and burning gas. To explain it in simplified terms, you are getting 0 MPG for 10 minutes. You will now need to get 20 mpg for the next 10 minutes of driving just to raise your MPG average up to 10 mpg for that amount of idling and driving time. Again, this is a simplified explanation, and the math is not exact in all situations, but it is close enough to make the point clear. These are just a few of the many things we can all do to try and help our MPG's. Looked at one at a time, they do not seem like much. But when added together, they make a significant impact on our gas mileage. Hope some of this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi weasel. :D There are some basic instructions on how to access the foglights from underneath the front end (you need to first remove the front underbody splash shield). There is not much adjustment built into them, as fog lights are supposed to be aimed low. In fact, when fog lights are aimed properly, many people believe they are aimed incorrectly, when in reality they are just the way they should be. If they are aimed too high, the light will reflect off the water vapor in the fog and back in to the drivers eyes. Essentially, if you park your car at night in front of a wall (about 25' away) and turn on your fogs and low beams, the upper light cut off from the fog lights should be visibly below the mid range of the low beams (less than two feet off the ground). Of course, it is possible that your fogs were aimed wrong at the factory, so give them a check. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi iceman. :D As Splitpi stated, the AWD system is not and can not be turned into a full time 4WD system. All that would be accomplished for the effort would be to eventually destroy the AWD system and void the powertrain warranty. Good luck with your Edge. :beerchug: