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Hi Lex. :D I just saw your last post (#13). Looks like some very helpful charts and calculators. Similar to the "Payment Estimator", but might be easier to compare loan rates with the information you found. Good catch. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D No, of course I understand that none of us want to completely drain our cash reserves and I was not advocating that. That is why I prefaced my statement by saying"Without getting into too much of a Finance class...". Only you can decide how much you can afford to put down, and how much cash you need readily available. I was only suggesting that you think about putting more money down, if you can swing it comfortably. One of your earlier posts lead me to believe that you could afford a larger down payment, but had just sort of arbitrarily decided on $15,000. You need to do what you feel is best. I'm only sort of working blindly here on the advice part (which only reinforces my statements earlier about how hard it is to give advice and answers without the proper information, right?) :read: It is just my nature to try and be as accurate as I can, if I am trying to help someone. Even when the advice is free! :yup: Whatever you decide to do, I wish you the best of luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. Yep, typo on my part on the $20,000/$25,000 figures. My figures are still correct, I just typed the wrong amount in my post. Ooooopss!!! Without getting into too much of a Finance class, if you have the cash (and according to how it is currently Invested, and what type of return you are getting), I would think about putting more money down. If it is sitting in a regular Savings or Checking account, earning less than 3.9%, it makes no sense to leave it there doing nothing. For example, if your money is getting 1.9% in a Savings account, you can pay yourself 2% just by making a larger Down Payment and having a smaller loan at 3.9%. Of course, if the money is in a CD earning 5.9%, then make a smaller down payment, take a larger car loan at 3.9%. and you make 2% by leaving it there and making loan payments. (Insert your own figures as to what your Savings/Investments are actually earning). Hope this is not too confusing. As to your "pants down" question, :gang: yes, a dishonest Dealer/Salesman can always input bogus information and hope you do not notice. This is why I highly recommend that you get all of your figures down ahead of time and use the "Payment Estimator" to get it all down on hard copies that you can study before hand. Also, this is why we are all here, to try and help educate and assist each other, so feel free to ask any questions you may have. :grouphug: Hope this information helps. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi carbonedge. :D Yes, what they changed was the model (trim level) names. If I remember correctly, the SEL Plus was replaced by the Limited. You could get both options in 2007 on the SEL Plus, not the 2007 SEL. Lex is looking at the 2008 SEL (there is no SEL Plus in 2008), or the Limited. You can get both option packages on the 2008 Limited (equivalent of your 2007 SEL Plus), but not the SEL (equivalent of the 2007 SEL). Thus, the conundrum! Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Abrannan. :D The best you can currently get for 60 months through Ford Motor Credit on 60 months Special APR is 5.9%, not 3.9%. Incentives vary according to type of vehicle and when you buy. If you got 3.9%, it would depend on what you purchased and when. It is not available now on the Edge. EDIT - I just noticed your Signature, and now I see why you were able to get 3.9%/60 months. You purchased a 2007, the Incentives were higher. In fact, now the APR on a 2007 for 60 months is 2.9%. Lex is purchasing a 2008, the Incentives are not as good (5.9%/60 months). Hope that solves the mystery for everyone Using those figures (5.9% for 60 months), your guess would not be right. That is why a guess is only a guess. And telling someone you are guessing is much different than telling someone "I can tell you right now..the lower interest rate would be the best bet". Here are the current "Special APR rates": 3.9%/36 months, 4.9%/48 months, 5.9%/60 months, 7.9%/72 months. Having laid out the correct information, I just want to add again that I am not trying to be a wise guy. I am only trying to help answer Lex's question with valid, accurate information. If you look at all of my posts, you will see that I am not the type who looks for arguments, I only try to give people accurate information, and try to avoid conflict and arguments as much as possible. To give accurate information, an individual needs all of the relevant information. Again, please just take this in the spirit of trying to answer Lex's questions accurately, and good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Just to try to give you a general idea, I went to the "Payment Estimator". Assuming an "out the door" price of $35,775 (I have to start somewhere) and a $15,000 down payment. Here are some figures: If you take the 3.9% and $500 - Your monthly payment would be $598. That would give you a total out of pocket in payments of $21,528 for 36 months. Add your $15,000 Down Payment and you paid a total of $36,558. If you take the full $1,000 and can get a 6.9% APR from the Dealer or elsewhere, your monthly payments would be $610, total out of pocket on the loan would be $21,960 for 36 months. Add your $15,000 DP and you paid a total of $36,960. So essentially, your "mental break point" as far as APR is somewhere below 6.9%. Or, you can put more money down and save more on Interest, whether you use the 3.9% or another loan APR. These are just some rough figures, but as you can see, the "payment Estimator" is a handy tool.. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Well, there are several assumptions you are making that work against you, so work with me here, as it is hard to cover everything in writing. First, have you looked at and tried the "Payment Estimator" on the Fordvehicles.com website? You can plug in different figures and print them out so that you have hard copies. Next, it is very hard to give accurate "mental pointers", without figures. Without the figures, all you will get is people guessing. They may guess right, they may guess wrong. Do you really want to base your decisions on guesses made by strangers, on the Internet? Think about it, how can anyone give you an accurate answer without knowing what both Interest Rates will be? You need to know what your Interest rate will be if you take the full $1,000. You need to ask the Dealer what rate they can give you if you take the $1,000? What rate can you get at your Bank? Do you belong to a Credit Union? If yes, what is their new car rate? It should not be that hard to get figures before hand. At the very least, you can figure on a "Best Case Scenario" of getting an X-Plan price. Also, the process should not resemble what you describe. It should not be a case of "We do it now or else". If a Dealer or Salesman attempts to pressure you in such a manner, I would go somewhere else. Trust me, they will give you the time to sleep on it, if you insist. Do not let them pressure you. Also, you can simply request that they work up your loan figures both ways, while you are there. It is part of their job description :yup: : First, taking the 3.9% APR/$500, and second taking the full $1,000 and the "everyday APR Rate". They have a computer program that spits everything out in seconds, in writing. So let them use it to help you. Remember, it is your money, you are in charge. All of that being said, if you are only putting down $15,000 on a $35,000 price tag, that means you will be financing $20,000 for 36 months. So my guess would be that you would be better off taking the 3.9% and $500. But remember, it is just the guess of a stranger on the Internet. Feel free to ask any other questions you may have. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Abrannan19. :D This is a perfect example of how no one can give a valid answer, and should not try to give an answer, without knowing all of the figures and the requested information. Lex already states in his first post that he is looking to finance for 36 months, not 60. In addition, he may not save $500 if he is financing a smaller amount. And please understand, Abrannan, that I am not trying to be a wise guy, but any answer without all of the numbers is merely a guess. It may be a correct guess, it may be an incorrect guess, but it is still merely a guess. If he is financing a large amount for 3 years, the 3.9% probably will be the better deal. If he is financing a smaller amount, and can get a good alternative Interest rate from the Dealer, his Bank or Credit Union (if he is a member of one), he may very well be better off taking the $1,000. Lex, please come back and post the requested information, or use the "Payment Estimator" on the Ford website. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D We would need much more information to give you an answer to that question (and ignore any answer given to you without the information, as it would not be valid). Essentially, we need to know the total amount you would be financing, and what the APR % Rate would be both ways. Right now we have no idea how much you are financing, and only know the APR Rate one way. So, to give a valid answer to that question, you would need to know several things: First, how much are you financing (i.e. how much will your total loan be)? In other words, how much is your total to purchase the vehicle (everything, including tax, Title and Registration, etc, etc.), then subtract how much are you putting down, and if you are trading in a vehicle, subtract the amount that they giving you for the trade. Next, you need to know what the APR % Rate would be on your loan if you take the full $1,000 (making you ineligible for the 3.9%/36 month Special APR Rate). Essentially, it just becomes a math calculation once those figures are known. If you go to the Fordvehicles.com site, there is a link to a "Payment Estimator". All you need to do is calculate all of those figures (for purchasing both ways), then plug in the numbers and the "Payment Estimator" will give you the answer. Or if the figures still really stump you, come back and post the necessary information. Then I or another Forum member will help out. We have to know the both the loan amount and alternative Interest rate first though. Let us know what you find out. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Have you asked the Sales Manager (not the Salesman), or another higher up if they will simply switch the wheels from the Limited you order, with the wheels from an SEL on the lot? Pitch it to them like this, "It is a win win situation. I can get the wheels I want. You (the Dealer) get a sale, and they can just charge an ADM (Additional Dealer Markup) for the "Chrome Clad" wheels to the eventual SEL buyer". To add a little "incentive" (pressure) for them, you can also tell them that you need to hold off purchasing from them, as you want to shop around and see if another Dealer will accommodate your wheel trade request. In other words, if you don't give me what I would like, I am going to try and find someone who will, and buy from them. This may get them to work with you. The worst that can happen is they will still say no. Unfortunately, you most likely will not be able to get any sort of refund on the wheel cost, but at least you may be able to get what you want. However, you can always ask for a credit. The worst that can happen is they say no. It is worth a try. Again. the worst that can happen is they say no. Your other option would be to see for real if another Dealer would be willing to make the same sort of trade, and buy from them. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D The answer to your first question is yes. Assuming that the website has the most up to date option/option package/order information, the process is essentially exactly the same. So under that assumption, the answer to your second question would be no, the Dealer has no more discretion to combine options on a "Factory Order" than a stock order, so you would not be able to do what you want. Unfortunately, it is the same industry wide, no matter which car manufacturer you are looking at. They have decided that bundling options into packages is cost effective, and limiting particular packages to upscale vehicle trim levels gives them a certain exclusivity, thus convincing some people to upgrade to the higher trim level. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D I always "Factory Order" my cars, and always recommend the same to anyone who has the ability of being able to wait a few weeks for the luxury of getting the exact car that they want. No paying for unwanted extra equipment. No settling for second choices on interior or exterior colors. No missing equipment. And sometimes best of all, not having to wonder who the heck may have been test driving their new car (or abusing it) before they purchased it. I know this may seem strange to those who do not order their cars, but I would not take a car off the Dealer lot or a Dealer transfer, even if it did match exactly what I wanted. I would still "Factory Order" my new car. Just my own personal preference. There are many differences in standard equipment between the SEL and the Limited, and option packages that will not match up if you try to load an SEL to be the same as a Limited. There are too many for me to begin copying and pasting, so here is a link to the Ford Edge web page, which details the different standard equipment between models: LINK: Ford Edge Unfortunately, in most cases a Salesman is not the place to go for good information, as they normally will not admit they do not know and have to look it up. They will wing it. Of course, there are good ones out there, but they are sometimes hard to find. And just for informational purposes, there is a reason why you cannot get all the options on a "lower end" model which are available on a "higher end" model. This is to keep the "higher end" model a little more exclusive. Thus, you need to pay more for the higher end models added features. I am not saying I agree with the philosophy, I am just explaining it. Hope this information helps. Click on the link, it will help explain things much better than your Salesman did. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi dijhot. :D No, I would not "demand" it be fixed. I would just tell them what is wrong and ask them to take care of it. Of course if you have a concern about the fit of the window, bring it to the attention of the Service Department. I would even recommend that when you stop in at the Dealership, you look at a few of the MKX's on the lot and see how their windows look. That being said, forgive me if I am reading what you wrote incorrectly, but do not go in demanding anything. Just point out what you think is wrong, and ask them to fix it. The people in your Dealerships Service Department did not build the car. Surely, you do not like when people "demand" you do something, so just treat them as you would like to be treated. You already have yourself worked up as though they have refused to fix it. If the window is not fitted correctly, it should be reset under warranty, simple as that. Again, compare your rear window to others on the lot, if they are different, you probably have a problem. Perhaps you did not really mean "demand". Good luck and Happy New Year! :beerchug:

Hi Edgieguy. :D Yes, "CorporateEdge" is correct. Essentially, there is no way that a vehicle which was "Factory Ordered" on 12/7 arrived in time for a 12/29 delivery. Let's look at it this way, you say you ordered on 12/7, and that the build date was also 12/7. It would be impossible to have "New Factory Order" like yours, be built the same day as the order was placed. You received a matching vehicle that was previously ordered (probably 3-4 weeks before you ever ordered yours). Your Edge either came in off the dealers assigned inventory or from another area dealer (unit swap between dealers, as CorporateEdge stated). On a "Factory Order", we are looking at a 6-8 week lead time. In addition, you state that "the VIN we got was the one delivered to us so I thought it got built for us." When was that VIN given to you. at the time you "ordered". VINS are not assigned until several steps into the order/production process. Usually you are looking at getting a VIN at least 2-3 weeks (if you are lucky) after you order. You had your new vehicle home in your driveway about then. Either way, it really does not matter. As long as you are happy! (by the way, I live in NJ also!) Good luck, Happy New Year and many happy miles with your new Edge! :beerchug: PS - There is a simple way to find out this information, if you care to. Post your VIN in the "Vehicle Locator by Ford Employees" forum. There, they will be able to give you each important date in your vehicle's production run. Just start a "New Topic" with your request.

Hi kbesner. :D There is no trick to it. Your ignition is not working correctly. Take it to the Dealer for service. Good luck, and Happy New Year! :beerchug:

Hi again Biff215. :D The Ford recommended maintenance schedule is 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. When you hit 6 months, bring it in for the oil change. Even if you don't drive 7500 miles every 6 months, the maintenance schedule still calls for the change. And if your Service Plan covers scheduled maintenance, it logically covers an oil change every 7500 miles/6 months. I also do not drive less than 7500 every 6 months, so I just change the oil at 6 month intervals. It is all spelled out in the Maintenance Schedule booklet. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi cmccarthy. :D If any of us were to read any expert advice on correctly keeping track of true MPG, it will always say to calculate it manually. This is why things need to be done properly. For example, you slow the nozzle flow down as you are approaching full, you do not top off the tank, etc, etc. Also, and most importantly, while you calculate for every tankful, you need to average your calculations over many tankfuls. You calculate for at least 4-5 tankfuls, and then average them together. In the same way that a batting average in baseball is calculated for the entire season, not for one week. Small samples can/will give skewed results. Just like any other calculation, the larger the sample (more tankfuls), the more accurate the statistics. I keep a small notebook in my glove compartment. Every time I fill up (I always fill up, never a partial fill) I note the mileage I drove and the gallons I filled. I use Trip Computer A to keep track of the miles driven, and I reset it when I fill. I never reset the MPG reading in the trip computer (it currently reads 21.5 MPG). I therefore have a running tally of what my mileage was for every tankful of gas since I bought the car. If it seems to drop suddenly, I will know immediately. I also know enough to realize that cold weather, hot weather, winter gas formulations, stop and go driving, A/C use, Defroster use, improper tire pressure, etc, etc, etc...will all drop my MPG's. Now this may seem like a lot of work, but look at it rationally. It takes me 30 seconds to take the notebook out of the glove compartment, fill in the miles driven off of Trip Computer A, reset Trip Computer A, then lastly write down the number of gallons pumped, after I pay. What else are we doing while we are standing/sitting there? Hell, it took me longer to type it than to do it! Everybody should try it, since not only does it help you know how your car is performing, it also makes the time it takes to fill-up pass quicker! :yup: Good luck and Happy New Year! :beerchug:

Hi miran587. :D Also, did you read the list I posted a few posts back (Post #26) in this thread? Read all of them carefully, but especially #5, concerning what settings you leave your HVAC system on? Do you leave it set to "A/C", "AUTO", or do you leave the "FRONT DEFROSTER" on? Any of those three would be the same as leaving your A/C on all the time.. The A/C Compressor will be on to dehumidify the warm air. Uses a lot of gas. Also, look at driving habits. All of them. For example, does your wife rest her left foot on the brake pedal while driving, thinking it "I'm not pressing it, so it can't hurt anything"? Is she turning off the "Overdrive", thinking she is doing a good thing? Probably not, but the point is you need to look at every possible variable. In addition, take anyone and everyones MPG claims with a grain of salt. Trust me, you will see people making all kinds of extraordinary (and often ridiculous and unsubstantiated) claims. Someone will see 35 MPG on the trip computer, for 1 minute, going downhill with a tailwind, and claim they are getting 35 MPG highway driving, and swear by it too! Check and correct all of the variables you have control over, such as HVAC settings, tire pressure, driving habits etc, etc. Once you have taken care of those, if you truly think your MPG's are too low, express your concerns to the Dealer. Once again, good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Biff215. :D "Normal" service intervals on the new 3.5 L engine in the Edge are 7,500 miles. Every 7500 you should change the oil/filter and rotate your tires. Shorter than that (5,000 miles) would be the "Severe Duty" schedule, which you (and most others) should not need. If someone did tell you 5,000 miles, it was probably an accidental slip, as up until the new 3.5 came out, the "Normal" service interval was 5,000 miles. But it is not any longer. 7500 miles is the "Normal" Service interval. Good luck! :beerchug: EDIT - druck52 got there first! :stats:

Oooops! Double post. Sorry!

Hi miran587. :D Check your Owners Manual. It says 19.2 gallons. I would think Ford has it right. If you put 19.2 gallons in (plus what was left in the tank), you must have had it filled up to the gas cap! If you overfill the tank, of course your calculations will be off, and your MPG's will seem low. In addition, you can not get an accurate MPG rating by calculating one tankful. There are too many variables. What if the tank was not completely filled last time? What if you did most of your driving for that particular tankful against a headwind, what if, what if, etc, etc. You need to drive and calculate for at least 3-4 complete tankfuls, then take into consideration what type of driving you did for those tankfuls (city/highway split), before you decide whether your MPG's are good, bad or average. Plus, all of the other variables already listed, especially in winter driving, need to be taken into consideration. If all of that information is not enough to allay your fears, take it back to the Dealer and have them check it.. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi miran587. :D Well, as a newbie, we will try to cut you some slack (for not searching and doing some research into the dozen other posts concerning this question). First of all, how are you figuring your gas mileage? Are you dividing the miles driven by the amount of fuel added on each fill up (resetting the miles each time)? Because I can safely say that if you were really only getting 15 mpg, the only way you could go 300 miles would be if you were running on fumes. The Edge has a 19.2 gallon tank. 19.2 X 15 = 288. So as you can see, your calculations must be off, even if you are running it dry every time. Anyway, here are just some of the reasons for your "low" MPG's at this time of year. It is copied and pasted from another of the many "Why do I only get ... MPG?" posts. Please read the following list carefully, as there is at least one factor that you can do something about (#5): Here are just some of the many (simplified) reasons your car will get lower mpg's in very cold weather: 1 - In many regions of the US, the gas formula is switched over by law to an "Oxygenated" mixture in the winter months, to meet EPA Air Pollution standards. This mixture is inherently less fuel efficient. Your car uses more fuel. 2 - An automobile engine has a specific temperature range where it is most fuel and power efficient. Get too far out of that ideal temperature range, either high or low, and fuel efficiency suffers. So essentially, extremely warm or extremely cold temperatures (summer and winter in most regions) adversely effect fuel consumption and engine efficiency. Once you are out of that ideal range, your car use more fuel. 3 - A car will take longer to warm up in cold weather, therefore running richer for longer. Your car uses more fuel. 4 - Cold air is denser than warm air, so an engine needs more fuel to run properly (just to drive normally). Therefore, the Engine Management System must run a richer mixture, to avoid running lean. Your car uses more fuel 5 - If you run your front windshield defroster, or have the Automatic Temperature Control HVAC system set to "Auto", your cars A/C compressor is running to dehumidify the warm air. It is the same as running your A/C in the summer. Your car uses more fuel. 6 - It takes more energy to get a car moving and keep it moving in wet, icy and snowy conditions, than it does in dry conditions. Think of driving in snow as almost the equivalent of driving in sand. Your tires, and therefore your engine, need to overcome more force against them. Your car uses more fuel. 7 - If you read your Owners Manual, or search this site for information, you will see that the 3.5 Liter engine in the Edge will take at least 5,000 miles to be fully broken in. Until that time, you guessed it, your car uses more fuel (yes, I know you already have 11,000 miles)! 8 - Since you purchased your Edge, have you checked the tire pressure with a good quality tire pressure gauge? Do you own a good quality pressure gauge? You certainly should. Low tire pressure will adversely affect fuel mileage. Tires will lose about 1.5psi for every 10*F drop in ambient temperature. Plus it is dangerous to drive with under-inflated tires. Check them, and fill them to the recommended pressure listed on the door sticker of your Edge (or preferably 2-3psi higher). These are just a few quick, simple reasons. I am sure someone else will jump in with more. And not that it makes us feel any better, but our friends and neighbors are not immune. Their cars are getting lower mpg's also. If they say they are not getting lower mpg's, they are either oblivious or telling a little white lie. You can't beat the laws of physics and chemistry. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 818EDGE. :D This has been discussed in numerous posts. So many in fact, it would make your head spin. There are many reasons that your MPG's will drop this time of year.: 1 - Winter gasoline formulations, mandated by the EPA. The formulations are "Oxygenated". You get lower MPG. 2 - Cold weather temperatures. Cold temperatures mean higher fuel consumption. You get lower MPG 3 - Cold weather temperatures. Cars take longer to reach operating temperature. Therefore run "richer" for a longer period of time before reaching regular operating temperatures. You get lower MPG. 4 - If you leave your HVAC system on "AUTO', or have the front windshield defroster on, your A/C compressor is running to dehumidify the warm air. It is the equivalent of leaving your Air Conditioning on all the time in the summer. You get lower MPG. 5 - When is the last time you checked your tire pressure (with a good tire pressure gauge)? For every 10*F drop in air temperature, you lose about 1.5psi. So if you last checked your tire pressure when it was 65*F, and it is now 25*F, your tire pressure is at least 6psi low. And that is only from temperature loss, and does not include other pressure losses. Low tire pressure means, you guessed it, lower MPG (and is downright dangerous also). These are only 5 reasons. There are others. Everybodys MPG drops in the winter time. You cannot beat the laws of physics! Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi blazin_edge. :D First question: Again. do you use a good quality tire pressure gauge to check your tire pressure? And a second question: Have you checked the pressure using a second pressure gauge, to see if the gauge you are using is calibrated incorrectly, or defective? Anyway, good luck again! :beerchug:

Hi blazin_egde. :D Yes, what druck52 said about wear in the middle of the tire tread. Essentially, no cause other than over-inflation. And I believe that the recommended tire rotation is every 7500 miles (the same interval as recommended oil changes). Just curious, what psi do you keep your tires inflated to? Please tell us it is what is recommended on the door sticker of your Edge (probably about 34-35psi), and not what is imprinted on the sidewall of the tire? Do you check your tires regularly, and use a good quality tire pressure gauge when you do? All of the other concerns are the type that you should definitely get back to the Dealer with, before your "Bumper to Bumper" Warranty is up (3 years/36,000 miles). Good luck! :beerchug: