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No P. Just enjoy helping people solve their problems when I can (something you have not done once since you joined :rolleyes: ). This would be in sharp contrast to all eight of your posts, which generally have been nothing but childish, sophomoric and rude. Way to keep up the good work. By the way, yes your posts are on record for everyone to see, so stop behaving like an Internet troll. The original poster thanked me, you bitched and moaned. Who do you think mattered? Your post was not helpful and certainly irrelevant. And by the way, it is the written word (not talking), and can not be heard (it is read).

Hi Clayton. :D "Usually", these offers always have catches. For example, they will include Rebates and Incentives like the "College Grad Rebate", "Senior Citizen Rebate", "Owner Loyalty Rebates" etc etc, which most people will not/cannot qualify for. While a buyer will sometimes be able to get a "better than X-Plan" deal of certain models (usually on slow moving hard to sell models, or previous model year leftovers), it is not a common occurrence. You will never know for sure until you go into the Dealership, sit down, and have them work up the "Out the Door" price of an Edge you are interested in. Be sure they have included every extra "Fee" and "Charge" that will be on the "Final Purchase Contract". In other words, the final amount you will need to fork over to walk "out the door" owning your Edge. They will likely be charging you anywhere from $400 on up in "extra" fees on this retail purchase, plus little Dealer added extras like "Window Etching", "Paint Sealant" etc etc, that will drive up the price. Then, compare that "Out the Door" price to the X-Plan price (remember to deduct all Incentives you qualify for under the X-plan). Keep in mind that other than a $75 maximum "Documentation Fee", the Dealer cannot charge you any other fees or charges on an X-Plan purchase. It may be a good deal, it may not. It may be limited to certain demo vehicles, it may not. You can only find out by going to the Dealer and asking the tough questions there. Just keep your eyes open, as more often than not, these deals turn out to be scams. Let us know how things turn out, and good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 07SEL. :D Just keep in mind, as I mentioned above, that not all "Asymmetric" tires have mounting limitations. Some can be mounted with either sidewall inside or outside. However, the fact that your tires have "Inside" and "Outside" stamped on the sidewalls, would lead me to make an educated guess that yours do have a mandated mounting limitation, and are likely mounted incorrectly. Again, just an educated guess. That is why I would try to give either Continental, or a Certified Continental Retailer in your area a call and ask them if your particular model (ContiCrossContact™ LX) has any mounting specifics. Tell them that your tires have "Inside" and "Outside" printed on each sidewall. The Dealer may be wrong, or they may be right. If they admit they are wrong, great. If they argue and say it doesn't matter, at least if you called Continental (or a certified retailer) first, you will have some back up evidence. Let us know how things work out. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 07SEL. :D Well, as I mentioned above, they could be "Asymmetric" tires (this is different than "Directional"). "Asymmetric" tires are sometimes meant to be mounted a specific way on the wheel, with one sidewall inside, the other outside, due to the "Asymmetric" design of the tread. It is for optimum handling and water evacuation during driving. If you would post the model name of the tire (and the size would help), I or another member who gets to it before me can look the tire up and may be able to find the answer on the Continental website. That is why I mentioned that you should go back to the Dealer and ask the question, or call Continental and ask them. If it were me, I would call Continental (and post the requested information here). Not trying to be a wise guy, but asking if others have the same situation will not get you the correct answer as to whether the tires are installed correctly. Post back with the information, and we will try to help. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 07SEL. :D I would go back and point this out to the Tire Retailer where you had the work done. What Manufacturer and Model tires are they? Often, the Manufacturer website will give very good information on tire models and uses. If we know the info, we can take a look. Normally, it does not matter unless the tires are "Directional" (they will have an arrow on the sidewall which should roll in the forward direction when the car is rolling forward) or "Asymmetric" (tread pattern is different on inside half of tire than the outside half). It sounds as though you may have purchased tires with an "Asymmetric" tread, and they mounted them on the wheels incorrectly. Let us know what happens. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Craig. :D It is the "band" type. If you take a look at your Owners Manual, it is described there. The online version explains the TPMS starting on page 215. Check your Owners Manual Index in case you have a different version. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Craiger. :D I would go with the 40's for exactly the reason you are thinking. A little more sidewall and a little more peace of mind on marginal roads. By the way, what was the final outcome with your Yokohama tire/wheel size mismatch? Did the retailer correct their mistake? Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Clayton. :D The Factory mats are not embroidered. The Ford Accessory mats are the ones which are embroidered. The Ford Accessory mats are also a little heavier, a little larger, and of a bit higher quality than the Factory mats. You can order the through your Dealers Parts Department, among other places. Most likely there are other aftermarket manufacturers/distributors of embroidered floor mats, I just do not know of one off the top of my head. Maybe WeatherTech or California Car Covers? Hope this information helps. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Craiger. :D I went to the Yokohama tire website LINK: Yokohama Tires (I did a "Search by Tire Size"). It is a two page PDF file, the Size Chart is on the second page, so scroll down. They list the "approved rim width" for the Parada Spec-X, 265/40/22 tire as 9.0" to 10.5". So it would seem that Yokohama would consider your 8.5 inch rim "Unapproved" width (as some have already told you). This could cause you either safety or Warranty issues at some point. Nowhere in the PDF file does it state that there is an "allowance" or "margin of error" of 1/2" or any other amount. Maybe there is, but it is not stated in the Yokohama information. It would seem that if you are within the "Approved Width" of 9" to 10.5" you are okay. If you are above or below those widths, you are using an "Unapproved Combination". You can try calling Yokohama to see if there is a 1/2" "margin of error" or "allowance" on the rim size, but short of something in writing, I would not take the chance. I would recommend printing out the PDF file, returning to the retailer where you purchased the tires, and requesting that they correct their mistake. Let us know how things progress. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Rusty. :D Yes, ScotchGuard would certainly help. While it won't keep the dirt off of it (like a mat), it will help keep it from staining and make cleaning it much easier. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Craiger. :D I would recommend that you ask Professionals about this subject, and not take an Internet poll of strangers (including me). You can/will get all kinds of advice as to whether your tire/wheel combo is correct, but how do you know that any of us know what the heck we are talking about? First, this certainly can be a safety issue, if the tires are on a wheel which is 1/2" too narrow. In fact, if you had a tire failure and the wheels are the incorrect width for the particular tire size, your tire warranty could also be voided by the tire manufacturer (in addition to the fact you could be hurt or killed in a catastrophic tire failure at speed). Next, if the retailer/supplier you purchased this wheel/tire combo from sold you a mismatched set, they certainly should be made to correct their error (at their expense, not yours). Please believe me when I say I am not trying to be a wiseguy, just give you good advice. I would contact the tire manufacturer first, and ask them what their recommendation is. You do not say what brand tire you have (a rather important fact to know for anyone trying to advise you), but I would certainly start by contacting the tire manufacturer. Next, you could call The Tire Rack, Discount Tire, your local STS, ETD, or other Professional Tire retailers, and have them address your concerns. You say you already have several other vendors telling you that the "minimum" wheel width for your new tires is 9.0", making your new wheels the incorrect width for your tires. I think you may have a problem. If your tire/wheel combo is incorrect, this could be a major safety hazard. I just think you would be better served by getting professional advice, not amateur advice from God knows who (and again, that includes me). Let's face it, the next person trying to pass themself off here as a "tire expert" to you, could be some twelve year old typing away in the basement on Mom and Dads computer, or worse! Of course, someone else giving you Internet advice here could possibly be a bona fide tire expert, but how will you know whether you have the tire expert or the twelve year old? Again, please understand I am only trying to give you some good advice. This is the same advice I would tell my own brother or sister. I hope you can straighten this out easily. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Edge2Be. :D If you read the fine print of all Incentive and Rebate offers, it will say "Must take delivery from Dealer Stock by xx/xx/xxxx.". That's it in writing. Ordering a car is not the same as taking delivery. When your vehicle has arrived at the Dealer, and you are taking delivery (actually purchasing it and will be driving away), you then qualify for whatever Incentives/Rebates are in effect that day. No if's, ands or but's. The fine print is really pretty self explanatory. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi solas090. :D The online Maintenance Schedule (Normal Service) for the 2008 Edge (FWD and AWD) recommends changing the Trans Fluid at 150,000 miles. As Grey stated, for Severe Duty and vehicles used for Towing, the recommendations are 30,000 miles (notice you have the Tow Package). Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Larry. :D I'm not sure what instructions you followed when you tried to program the system. Here are the instructions, copied and pasted from the online version of the 2007 MKX Owners Manual. If the suggestions given above by other forum members do not work, give them a try: Activating the memory feature To activate this feature: 1. Position the seat and mirrors to the desired positions. 2. Press the SET control on the driver’s door panel. 3. Within 5 five seconds, press the lock or unlock control on the Integrated keyhead Transmitter and then press the 1 or 2 control on the driver’s door panel which you would like to associate with the seat and Driver 1 or Driver 2 positions. 4. Repeat this procedure for another Integrated Keyhead Transmitter if desired. Deactivating the memory feature To deactivate this feature: 1. Press the SET control on the driver’s door panel. 2. Within five seconds, press the lock or unlock control on the Integrated Keyhead Transmitter which you would like to deactivate and then press the SET control on the driver’s door panel again. 3. Repeat this procedure for another Integrated Keyhead Transmitter if desired. AND Programming a personal entry code and keypad association to memory seats and mirrors (if equipped) To create your own personal entry code: 1. Enter the factory set code. 2. Within five seconds press the 1 • 2 on the keypad. 3. Enter your personal 5-digit code. Each number must be entered within five seconds of each other. 4. To associate the entry code with a memory setting, enter a sixth digit to indicate which driver should be set in a memory recalled by the personal entry code: • Pressing 1 • 2 recalls Driver 1 settings. • Pressing 3 • 4 recalls Driver 2 settings. • Pressing other keypad buttons or not pressing a keypad button as a sixth digit does not set a driver and will not recall a memory setting. Note: The factory-set code cannot be associated with a memory setting. 5. The doors will lock then unlock to confirm that your personal keycode has been programmed to the module. Tips: • Do not set a code that uses five of the same number. • Do not use five numbers in sequential order. • The factory set code will work even if you have set your own personal code. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi PJFW8. :D I do not think that the Dealer can do anything about adjusting the pedals, but it would probably be best to ask them that question. There are pedal extensions available on the aftermarket. I would start by asking your Dealer if they can recommend a seller, or if they have them available themselves. Ask the Manager of the Parts Department for help. An auto shop which does aftermarket modifications for the handicapped should be able to get them for you. If not, I would check with shops that stock supplies for the disabled/handicapped (am not trying to be a wiseguy, these are the types of stores which would be able to help you with these types of aftermarket accessories). I am really surprised that the seat cannot be brought into a position which would fit your wife. Has she moved the seat all the way forward, and pushed the telescoping steering wheel in all the way? My wife is only 5'0" and has never had a problem finding a comfortable seating position. Could just be that extra inch (or longer legs)? Hopefully, if you can not find them at the places I recommended, someone with personal experience in this type of problem will be able to jump in. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi theloneranger. :D It is your vehicle, so you are free to do as you like, but I just want to give you advance warning. If you use a lift kit/lifts, or "crank up the torsion bars a couple of notches", you need to assume that any suspension/half shaft/transmission related problems you may have in the future, during your Warranty period, can effectively be denied by Ford. This does not mean that they definitely will be denied, just that Ford/the Dealer can and very well may deny to cover any claims concerning those areas due to the modifications you have made. Just something to think about while your car is still covered under Warranty (3 years/36,000 miles Bumper to Bumper, 5 years/60,000 miles? Powertrain). Whatever you decide to do, good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Edge2Be. :D This is a multi answer question, and a difficult one to answer in writing at that. First of all, you qualify for the Incentives and Rebates in place at the time you take delivery of a vehicle, not when you order it. So if the Incentives change before your Edge comes in, you get the new ones, not the old ones. No if's, ands or but's. The Dealer cannot change that rule. Ford makes the rules. Now, to the second part of your question. Yes a "Factory Ordered'" car is considered "Dealer Stock" once it arrives. The problem you have is this. Did you order your vehicle with those options (sync, etc)? If you did, and your vehicle comes in while the offer is still valid, you would qualify. If you did not order the necessary options, you would need to see if the Dealer can/will add them to your vehicle. If they can, great. If they can't or won't, then you would need to buy another vehicle from the Dealers stock, or have them find one at another Dealer to transfer. Otherwise, obviously you cannot get those options. In addition, you would then have the problem of would Dealer installed options qualify, even if they can add them? Your best bet may be to ask the Dealer for definitive answers to your questions, to see what they can do according to Ford, and also what they are willing to do on their own. Sort of a Catch-22 in this case. Hope this information is not too confusing. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Not to get too involved in your business, but are you saying that the current Incentive is $1,500, and the Dealer only gave you MSRP minus $1,500? You should be able to negotiate a much better deal than that. Just trying to help you save some money.

Hi Tink83. :D According to the Owners Manual, you must bring your vehicle to the Dealership. I would tend to think that most/all Dealers would not do this over the phone, for liability purposes. Could you imagine the legal liability they would face if they gave your "Factory Code" to a stranger, or someone trying to gain access illegally to your vehicle? Some members have supplied anecdotal evidence that their vehicles (other than the Edge) have the code hidden in various places on the vehicle (most commonly they will state they found it on the PCM box or the side of the radio), but I have not seen anyone verify that information for the Edge yet. I really think you will need to visit the Dealer. Sorry for the following questions, but are you sure you checked all of the paperwork enclosed in your new vehicle folder for the card? Checked inside your Owners Manual to be sure it was not stapled inside the cover? You do have the exterior keypad on your drivers door, correct? If you do have the keypad, and you don't have the card, once you have gone to the Dealer, it is a simple procedure for the Dealer to enter the proper information into the system to retrieve your original "Factory Set Code". Will you be taking it there for routine service (oil changes and such)? If yes, and it is a long drive, why not wait until your first needed service visit to get the code? Just a thought. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Paul. :D If you look in the Index of your Owners Manual, under "Cleaning", it will give you some guidelines to follow for different surfaces and materials in/on your vehicle. For example, for the interior (non-glass) plastic and vinyl in the interior it recommends the following: • Clean the interior trim areas with a damp cloth, then with a clean, dry cloth; you may also use Motorcraft Dash & Vinyl Cleaner (ZC-38-A). • Do not use household or glass cleaners as these may damage the finish. I would recommend a good low gloss/no gloss vinyl, rubber and plastic cleaner from a company like Meguiar's or Mother's to get the Armor-All off of the dash, door panels etc. Then wipe with a wet cloth and follow up with a dry cloth (microfiber or 100% Cotton to avoid scratching), as the Manual directions say. Do you have the leather seats? If you do, get a good quality leather cleaner/conditioner from Meguiar's or Mother's and clean them down well with the leather cleaner and conditioner. Assuming you have the leather wrapped steering wheel, do the same for that. I hope it was not Armor-All that the Dealer prep guy put on your leather seats and leather wheel wrap. Silicone based products should not be used on leather. Of course, there are other good brands of car cleaning products, I just happen to favor Meguiar's first, then Mother's. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi beasley. :D Yes, exactly. If the "Chrome Cladding" is determined to be defective/loose, the wheel is replaced under Warranty. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Solas. :D The laws pertaining to the requirements of TPMS on new vehicles state that it must give a warning at no lower than a 25% drop below the "Manufacturers Minimum Recommendation". That is the minimum sensitivity requirement set by law. Of course, that does not mean that a Manufacturer cannot have a system that will give an earlier warning. Then we have to take all of the other variables into account, margin of error of the particular system in each vehicle, variations between the accuracy of your tire pressure gauge and the actual true psi reading, variations between when each reading was taken, etc etc. If your TPMS system is truly that accurate, and your tire gauge is also giving you an accurate reading, I would consider myself lucky that it warns at that little of a loss. It actually is warning you at approximately a 10% loss of pressure (32psi X .90 = 28.8psi). I would rather have that than a 25% loss warning. Also, keep in mind that the 25% loss warning requirement is based on "Recommended Pressure" for the individual vehicle. So if your Mazda's recommended pressure is 32psi, a 25% loss would bring you down to 24psi (32psi X .75 = 24psi, not 25.5). Even lower than you expected, and that much more dangerous. The TPMS systems serve a useful function, but nothing can beat proper preventative maintenance. They are the equivalent of what some call an "Idiot light". When that warning light comes on, it is saying the equivalent of "Hey dumbass, when is the last time you checked your tires, they are low". Of course, I am half joking with the above statement, as I realize a properly functioning TPMS system can also perform a useful function by warning of a puncture/leak/air loss that could have occurred while we are driving, no matter how religiously we may actually check our tires. :yup: Anyway, you are doing the smart thing by regularly checking your tire pressure yourself. I hope this information was not too confusing. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi beasley. :D The fix, if the Dealer/Ford determine the chrome clad wheel is defective, is a simple replacement with a new wheel. Some just have squeaky/ill fitting chrome cladding, most don't. Just another sometimes defective part from a supplier. I would assume that Ford is having the supplier address the quality control concerns on current production runs. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Yes, the Costco tech was correct. Some of the major benefits of Nitrogen are: 1 - It is less affected by temperature variation. Regular compressed air can lose/gain up to 1.5psi per 10*F fall/rise in temperature. Nitrogen does not have this problem. 2 - As akirby stated, Nitrogen does not hold moisture as compressed air does, so it can lead to less oxidation/decomposition of the inner structure of the tire. 3 - As you were told, you will see less pressure drop over time, due to the fact that Nitrogen molecules are larger than Oxygen molecules, so they leak less readily. This only applies to incidental leakage, not actual punctures. If you get a puncture, your tire will still leak like a sieve. Downsides are: 1 - Unless you get a "Free Nitrogen Fill" (keeping in mind that there is no free lunch), you are now paying for something you usually can get for free (compressed air). 2 - Once you have a Nitrogen fill, you cannot use regular compressed air to top off a low tire without losing all of the Nitrogen fills benefits. You therefore need to have a shop/Service Station readily available with Nitrogen fill equipment. All of that being said, a pure Nitrogen fill is more "idiot-proof" than compressed air. However, a smart vehicle owner will still need to check their tires as religiously as before. In addition, the TPMS systems are calibrated to warn you once the tire pressure has dropped 25% below the "Manufacturers Recommended Pressure". I believe the psi "recommendation" for the Edge is 34psi. That means you will not even get a warning until the psi in your tires has fallen below 25.5psi. That is already well into dangerously low, possible catastrophic tire failure at high speed levels. I check my tires often, so feel no need for the Nitrogen fill (maybe I'm just cheap? ). For those who are a little more lax on vehicle maintenance, I can see how the Nitrogen fill could have benefits. Just understand that the new TPMS systems and a Nitrogen fill do not make your tires maintenance free and idiot proof. And contrary to some well intentioned but incorrect information that has been posted in the past (not in this thread, but by other members in other threads), Nitrogen will not improve the ride/handling or MPG's of any vehicle, assuming that we compare apples to apples (two vehicles, one Nitrogen fill, one Compressed Air filled, with the proper psi in their tires). In other words, 34psi of Compressed air will give the exact same MPG's and ride/handling as 34psi of Nitrogen. Whatever everyone decides to do, I wish them the best of luck! :beerchug:

Hi killermaze. :D According to the Owners Manual, if you do not have the card that came with the vehicle when it was new, and do not know the "Factory Set Code", you will need to go to a Ford Dealer and have them retrieve the code for you. If you purchased your Edge from a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Dealer, go back to the Dealer and have them retrieve the code. Otherwise, another Dealer may charge you for the service. The Dealer need only enter your VIN into the "Oasis" System, and if they sold you the vehicle without the code, they should do it for free. Some forum members have stated that they heard the Factory Set Code is hidden somewhere in the vehicle (on the PCM or - EDITED - on/in the passenger compartment fuse box are most often mentioned), but this has not been verified to my knowledge on the Edge. Once you have the original Factory Set Code, it is a relatively simple procedure to set up to three personal codes of your own. You cannot set the "Personal Codes" without the "Factory Code". The procedure to set the "Personal Codes" is outlined in your Owners Manual. Personal Codes can be reprogrammed at will once you have the Factory Code. However, the Factory Code is permanent and cannot be reset (according to the Owners Manual). If you also do not have your Owners Manual, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Owners Manuals Just fill in the info for your Edge in the drop down boxes, click "Submit", then click the link for "Owners Guide". Then save the file to your computer. Hope this information helps. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Rusty. :D The OEM mats which come in the vehicle from the factory (whether Camel or Black) are not embroidered with "Edge" on them. You then purchased the "Ford Accessory" mats. You will notice that, compared to the mats which came in the vehicle from the factory, the front mats are a little heavier, a little bigger, bound around the edges (no pun intended), and are embroidered with the vehicle name (the rear mats are not embroidered). You could have ordered the "Ford Accessory" mats in Camel, and they would have come embroidered also. Nothing wrong here, just the way it is. Hope this information helps. Good luck! :beerchug: