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Hi Poorboy. :D No! No! No! No! No! Look at offers like this in a logical manner. Automakers spend hundreds of millions of dollars trying to engineer a few extra tenths of a mile per gallon into their engines. If it was as simple as sticking a $9.49 "chip" (in truth, it is a 10 cent transistor they are selling you) into your engine control computer (or anywhere else ), would the Automakers not just do it themselves? It is a scam and a ripoff. Please do yourself a favor and do not waste your money. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi goatee. :D Yes, inherent engineering problems are corrected as they occur, as soon as feasible. It is the same case with all Auto Manufacturers. You have to keep things in perspective. These are not widespread problems. They are the most common problems reported here, in a Forum specifically for Edge/MKX. As has been pointed out in the past, reading an Automotive Forum is like reading the Newspaper, or watching the news. The "News" is usually all bad news. Good News is not news and is quickly forgotten. It is the same here. Many members come here to find a solution to some sort of problem. But the problem vehicles are a minority case. People who have no problems and love their car don't post everyday that they love their car. But people having problems post everyday for help and solutions. Good luck with your new Edge. :beerchug:

Hi Dragon. :D No major problems. Every make and model of car has a few problems here and there. You have to remember that many people come here to find solutions to problems, not sing praises. So the problems spoken about here are a minority situation. Kind of like watching the News on Television. They only report the bad things that happen. Most good things go unreported. That being said, with the Edge, the most common complaints so far seem to be a small minority of Owners having a small oil leak in the engine/transmission coupling area, and/or some rattling/loose interior trim concerning the Panoramic Roof. Overall, the Edge/MKX have been relatively trouble free vehicles, compared to other vehicles as a whole. Good luck with your new Edge! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Auto Manufacturers will make running changes during the year. You will see this when the Window Sticker says JOB 1, then JOB 2, then JOB 3, etc etc. Each JOB # change indicates changes and/or improvements that were made during a model year run. Other times, the changes are just quietly incorporated, with no JOB # change. It is much more efficient and cost effective to be done this way than pay the Dealer to perform Warranty work. One additional thing. You are using the incorrect term (it is more than just a matter of semantics). The "known issues", i.e. Technical Service Bulletins and Warranty work for all of the things you mentioned (transmission seals, rattling trim, creaky wheels, etc) are not "Recalls". There have been no "Recalls" on the Edge or MKX. Not a single one. While it may seem like a small detail, in reality a "Recall" is a much more involved and serious matter than these TSB and Warranty work fixes. In a "Recall", the Manufacturer must follow precise procedures to notify all owners of a recalled vehicle by mail and have them bring their vehicles in for repair. Again, none of these problems have brought about a "Recall". They are just fixed if the particular vehicles owner complains of the problem. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi billimek. :D Yes, you should be able to purchase the fuse at any competent Auto Parts Store. If you don't have decent one near you, purchase it at the Dealership. But it will normally be less expensive to buy at an Auto Store. However, keep in mind that you (and your Dealer) have not yet discovered what the original cause of the blown fuse was. Problems like this do not normally heal themselves, like a cut on your hand. I would recommend making another appointment and bringing your car back to them. Reinstall the blown fuse before you get there. Tell them you discovered the blown fuse and have them try to find the cause. Otherwise, over time you will probably wind up blowing a long succession of fuses. Additionally, in the future always have an electronic device with you when having service like this done, so you can test it before leaving the Dealership, and show them what the problem is. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Meckwell. :D Concerning non-Warranty service (where you are paying), no, a Dealer will gladly take any and all service you want to pay them for. Concerning Warranty Service, "technically", it should not matter. However, in the real world, some Dealerships will give preference concerning appointment priority, loaner vehicles, etc etc, to cars purchased at their shop. In addition, while it is against Ford policy, I have heard of cases where Dealerships have refused to perform "Warranty" service on a car purchased at another Dealer. However, these instances are unusual in the big picture. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi tiaquessa. :D As others have already posted here, the MKX lights are not HID (if that is why you were asking if they fit). They are "Adaptive Halogen". In other words, they swivel in the direction you steer. But, they are still regular Halogen bulbs. Also, as others have already posted here, be very careful with aftermarket "HID Kits". First of all, if you do some research, you will find that many people who have added them have recurring problems. Second, these aftermarket kits are illegal in all states (for on-road use). In fact, the following quote is taken directly from an "Aftermarket" HID Distributor: Is the conversion kit street legal? Please note that aftermarket (non-factory) Xenon HID headlight conversions are not legal for use on public roads or highways in the U.S.. For our U.S. customers, we will only sell products or parts for applications that we determine not to be in violation of U.S. laws or motor vehicle code. For customers outside the U.S., it is the responsibility of the customer to check local laws and regulations to ensure that their application is not illegal. We do not endorse any illegal or noncompliant use of our products. Buyers assume all responsibilities for any unauthorized or illegal use. It is not illegal to replace foglights with aftermarket "HID" kits. To get around the DOT prohibition of aftermarket "HID" retrofit kits, many people will replace their foglights with a retrofit "HID" kit, leaving their headlights stock. Concerning your question as to "4300 or 6000". If you really want more light and to be able to see better, get the 4300. I don't think you are one of those people (God I hope not! ) that thinks blue lights are "Cool", and thinks they are showing off when they drive at night (when really the rest of the world is thinking "Look at the nitwit with the stupid blue bulbs"). Again, copied from an HID website: If your looking for the most light output you should get stage I (4300k) that is the OEM color in Lexus and BMW (and it is not noticeable your lights are conversions). If your looking for the Very blue look the 6000k stage II is what your looking for, they are more blue than any lights you see on the road. The 6000k Stage II bulbs are actually coated with a blue tent and filters out light to produce the blue color, however when its filtering light out it is producing less light output. Whatever you decide to do, good luck! :beerchug: :angel: PS - :stop: Just kidding, all you blue-headlighted Forum members, so save your cards and letters! :hysterical2: :angel:

Hi Tiffany. :D Take it to the Dealer. That is what the 4 year/50,000 mile "Bumper to Bumper Warranty" is for. The belt/belt tensioner may need adjusting. Not trying to be a wiseguy, but "Take it to the Dealer" will be the correct choice, as far as "what to do", for anything you think is wrong with your new car. For little complaints like "rattles and squeeks", it would be best if you let the car break in a bit, as some of these problems will correct themselves. For minor concerns, "like rattles and squeeks" start a list of any concerns you may have as they occur. In this way you can list all of your "problems", wait a while, and have them all taken care of in one Service visit, instead of bringing your car in every time there is a "problem". For important concerns (like major engine/transmission/braking system problems), call and make an appointment to bring your car in right away. If you have a major concern, always ask to speak to a "Service Adviser" (not just a receptionist taking appointment dates), explain the situation to them, and be sure it is safe to drive the car until the appointment date. I wish you many miles of trouble free driving. Good luck! :beerchug:

I wish everyone the best of luck, whatever they decide to do. :beerchug:

Hi radicon. :D Off the top of my head, LINK: California Car Covers comes to mind. I have purchased from California Car Covers in the past, and been very happy with their products and customer service. There are other good ones, but at least you have a place to start. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi capnkirk. :D I am not trying to be a wiseguy, but we all need to read carefully what we are replying to. My comments were pertaining to Fuel Economy, not horsepower. No Automaker (either Ford or any other Automaker) holds back concerning Fuel Economy for "a few years...until the next motor comes out". Therefore, my statements are correct. If you go to any of these websites for these Tuners, none of them provide verifiable testing criteria. They almost all state that they cannot dyno test because the Edge/MKX/MKZ/Fusion/Milan they are testing is AWD, and their dynos can only test FWD/RWD, or some other reason. It all becomes a seat of the pants point of view. That is why I do not need to try one. I am discussing fuel economy, to which your assertion of "holding back" is invalid. I state in my first post that there may be a few horsepower gain with these tuners. But again, no actual verifiable numbers are provided. Additionally, I personally will install no such modification on my car while it is still under Warranty (4 years/50,000 miles Bumper to Bumper", 6 years/70,000 miles "Powertrain"). I will not take the chance of having an expensive denied claim. And, they will very likely deny an engine/trans claim if they discover the "Aftermarket Tune". "Just reinstall the "Stock Tune" about a week before you bring it to the Dealer", most Aftermarket Tuners will tell you. Well, how do you re-install the "Stock Tune" and drive it around for a week, if you have had a major engine or trans failure, and your car is not driveable? To this day, I have never heard that one explained. I do not doubt anyone's word, and am certainly not calling anyone a liar when they say that their car gets more MPG's. I am only saying that I require more proof than that. And no Aftermarket Tuner is providing that proof. And until I see such verifiable proof, I will continue to give the same advice to people who ask (like in this thread). I guess I am just the questioning type. I like to see proof. Again, everyone is free to purchase whatever they like, and should feel no need to justify their decisions to me, nor attack me for mine. Whatever everyone decides to do, I wish them the best of luck. As long as they are happy, that is great! Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi radicon. :D You are welcome. In addition, I need to say, please carefully re-read my previous post, as I am not sure how you misconstrued anything I stated in that post as a judgment of your automotive experience? Heck, this is just the Internet. I judge no one, as long as they do not resort to personal attacks. I merely try to provide accurate information to assist others. Your automotive knowledge, past vehicles owned, past MPG achieved, etc etc, have no bearing on the information contained in my post. The answers remain the same whether you are a teenager, a Senior Citizen, a novice or a Master Mechanic. I merely responded to your statements/questions/musings concerning a possible 3-5 MPG improvement brought about by an aftermarket "Tune". I answered, simply put, that it will not happen. As "gluman" added "If you want better mileage, coast to a stop, don't jackrabbit start etc...". In other words, people would be better off trying to optimize their driving style and habits, as they will not see better fuel mileage from a tune. If you would, Ford would incorporate those parameters into their Stock Factory Tune. I gave information, and then wished everyone, whatever they may decide to do, the best of luck. As you stated, that is "What these forums are all about". As far as "Conspiracy Theories"...I am not a believer. Again, Auto Manufacturers invest hundreds of millions of dollars to improve fuel mileage, so if someone comes up with a simple software update that would accomplish a 3 MPG increase, an Auto Manufacturer would immediately implement it. In this case, they haven't because it does not increase MPG's. I know this is not the answer a lot of people want to hear, but better to know the truth than be kept in the dark. I stated the facts, and now leave it up to each person to decide individually what they would like to do. Nobody needs to justify to me their decision to get an Aftermarket Tune, Intake, etc etc. It is a free country. :yup: Again, whatever you decide to do, good luck! :beerchug:

Hi radicon. :D I want to make it clear up front that I have nothing against people modifying their cars. Used to do it myself, in my younger days (unfortunately, those days are mostly over ). That being said, let's put things into perspective. Take all claims as to added horsepower and MPG with a giant grain of salt. Automobile Manufacturers spend hundreds of millions of dollars trying to engineer a few extra tenths of a MPG out of their engines. If it was possible to just "re-tune" the engine and Trans with a hand held $400 device, don't you think they would be falling all over themselves to implement this modification for their vehicles? Hell, for three to five extra MPG, for free (all they need to do is re-tune the PCM and TCM right from the factory), they would name you CEO of Ford Motor Company. Again, do as you like, but think about these things logically before you jump in head first. If something seems too good to be true, it usually is. Might you see a few extra horsepower from a re-tune? Sure, you might. Will you see an extra 3 MPG? No. An extra 5 MPG? No. Even most of the claims of perceived "added horsepower" actually come from the re-calibration of throttle response and shift points. Makes it feel like there is more response. In addition, if the Dealer (or Ford) discover these after-market tunes on your vehicle, you can rest assured that they will very likely deny any Engine or Transmission Warranty work claims. Might you get away with it? Maybe. You might even get lucky and have a more liberal Service Department at your particular Dealership. Just understand up front that you are taking your chances, should you have big ticket Engine or Transmission failure. Anyway, whatever anyone decides to do, I wish them the best of luck! :beerchug:

EDIT - Please Ignore/Delete. I double checked the information, and my first post was correct.

Hi DJStarr. :D I just thought I would post and mention, before this thread takes a turn for the worse, (EDIT: Too late! ) that it seems as though Lex has ordered an Edge. He has the VIN listed in the "Vehicle Locator by Ford Employees" Forum. Good luck all! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Yes, Roadside Assistance has been a part of Ford's "Bumper to Bumper" Warranty for some years now. I have/had it on my 2001 Cougar, and am relatively sure it was standard on my 1999 Cougar also. Can always cancel the AAA Membership for 3 years and save a few bucks! Good luck! :beerchug:

:D Hi kulemt. Forgive me if I am mistaken, but are you saying that the rear window was removed to tint it? Are you sure? That would be unusual, as most Window Tint Shops simply tint the windows in place, without removing them. I would check with the shop that did the tinting to verify that information. Either way, whether it was or was not removed, take your Edge back to the Dealer for the problem. Do not mention the window tinting and see if it will be repaired under warranty. Most likely, it will. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi everyone. :D I know the previous poster re-upped this older thread, but since they did, I though I should add this caveat: Incentives can and will vary in different regions of the country. So no single amount will necessarily hold true in two different regions. I just don't want anyone going into a Dealership thinking they know the correct information, when they do not. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi tiaquessa. :D I have had my car, along with its "chrome clad wheels", for well over a year now. They still look as good as new. But then again, I am fanatical about keeping my car clean. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi bpdunsta. :D Yes, they can be removed. Presentable underneath? Not at all in my opinion. You would either need to repaint the chrome ones you take off, or purchase new ones. There are other posts concerning this possibility. Good luck! :beerchug:

Congratulations Mike&Sara! :D Glad you were able to get what you wanted. Hi CorporateEdge, since I was the one who championed "Factory Ordering" I assume your questions were asked of me. Let me state up front that I certainly hold nothing against anyone who buys off the lot, if that suits their needs. In my case, it's just a personal preference. Kind of like "Coke or Pepsi". Some people like one, some the other. Me, I buy the one on sale! In my case, I purchase my vehicles on the Ford Employee Purchase Plans. When I order a car, it is ordered in my name, and when the vehicle comes in, my name is printed right on the MSRP Window Sticker. :shades: No way for the Dealer to fake it or pull one off another Dealers lot. In addition, even if I did not have the advantage of the Employee Purchase Plan, it is a simple thing to find out the exact build date of a vehicle and extrapolate that out to whether it was already an in-stock vehicle. I guess that answer sort of also answers your first question. I like knowing that my car came in for me and me alone. The Dealer calls me as it is coming off the truck. When it is driven off the car carrier, it is driven straight into the prep building and cleaned and prepped. It does not sit in the lot. A minimum of Dealer employees touch it, and no other customers touch it. No sticky fingered kids, no chain smokers, no sweaty cab drivers with B.O (no offense to cab drivers etc etc). Again, just my personal preference. I will let anyone know my preference if they ask, and then I will wish them luck, whatever they decide to do! :grouphug: America is a great country (and Canada too, for our Canadian cousins), huh! :happy feet: Good luck! :beerchug: EDIT - Thanks for reminding me! I also request and have it noted on the Order paperwork: No Dealer stickers, badges, medallions, etc etc, on my car. I don't mind the Dealer license plate frames, since I replace them with nice frames anyway, as soon as I am home with my new car.

Hi tiaquessa. :D Yes, very easily. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Mcginnis158. :D This is an often asked question. I took the liberty of copying and pasting a reply from one of the other threads asking the same question. Hope you find the information helpful and informative. Copy and Paste begins now: Anyway, here are just some of the reasons for your "low" MPG's at this time of year. Please read the following list carefully, as there is at least two factors that you can do something about (#5 & #8): Here are just some of the many (simplified) reasons your car will get lower mpg's in very cold weather: 1 - In many regions of the US, the gas formula is switched over by law to an "Oxygenated" mixture in the winter months, to meet EPA Air Pollution standards. This mixture is inherently less fuel efficient. Your car uses more fuel. 2 - An automobile engine has a specific temperature range where it is most fuel and power efficient. Get too far out of that ideal temperature range, either high or low, and fuel efficiency suffers. So essentially, extremely warm or extremely cold temperatures (summer and winter in most regions) adversely effect fuel consumption and engine efficiency. Once you are out of that ideal range, your car use more fuel. 3 - A car will take longer to warm up in cold weather, therefore running richer for longer. Your car uses more fuel. 4 - Cold air is denser than warm air, so an engine needs more fuel to run properly (just to drive normally). Therefore, the Engine Management System must run a richer mixture, to avoid running lean. Your car uses more fuel 5 - If you run your front windshield defroster, or have the Automatic Temperature Control HVAC system set to "Auto", your cars A/C compressor is running to dehumidify the warm air. It is the same as running your A/C in the summer. Your car uses more fuel. 6 - It takes more energy to get a car moving and keep it moving in wet, icy and snowy conditions, than it does in dry conditions. Think of driving in snow as almost the equivalent of driving in sand. Your tires, and therefore your engine, need to overcome more force against them. Your car uses more fuel. 7 - If you read your Owners Manual, or search this site for information, you will see that the 3.5 Liter engine in the Edge will take at least 5,000 miles to be fully broken in. Until that time, you guessed it, your car uses more fuel. 8 - Since you purchased your Edge, have you checked the tire pressure with a good quality tire pressure gauge? Do you own a good quality pressure gauge? You certainly should. Low tire pressure will adversely affect fuel mileage. Tires will lose about 1.5psi for every 10*F drop in ambient temperature. For example, if you last checked your tires in November, when the temperature was 70*, and now it is 20*, your tires will now be at least 7.5psi low. Plus it is dangerous to drive with under-inflated tires. Check them, and fill them to the recommended pressure listed on the door sticker of your Edge (or preferably 2-3psi higher). These are just a few quick, simple reasons. I am sure someone else will jump in with more. And not that it makes us feel any better, but our friends and neighbors are not immune. Their cars are getting lower mpg's also. If they say they are not getting lower mpg's, they are either oblivious or telling a little white lie. You can't beat the laws of physics and chemistry. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Meckwell. :D No, it is not too late, if your Dealer will accept an X-Plan purchase on the vehicle. Plan participation is voluntary for Dealerships (but if they agree to accept, they must follow the Plan rules). Go to the Dealership and let them know you have a friend who just told you that they can provide an X-Plan PIN to you. Ask them if you can switch the deal over to an X-Plan purchase. "Usually", this is not a problem. If the Dealer refuses, as leverage you can always tell them you wish to cancel the deal, and receive a refund on your deposit. Just be sure that the deposit is refundable before you do that. Then you can always purchase on the Plan at another Dealership. However, most Dealers do not seem to have problem with changing deals over to X-Plan qualifying purchases. Let us know how it goes, and good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Mike&Sara. :D What does your Dealer say in response to that question? Well, assuming your Dealer is competent, and assuming there are no Holiday or other plant shut downs (as there just was over the Christmas/New Year Holidays), and averaging the variable of where you live (distance the vehicle needs to be shipped), you can figure on a 6-8 week wait. To help avoid added anxiety, plan on 8 weeks, but hope for 6! :happy feet: Keep in mind that you may be told other (well intentioned) wait times that will not take into account that they were affected by one or more of these extenuating circumstances. Have to add that I agree with your choice, as I always Factory Order my cars (will not buy off the lot, even if they have or can trade for exactly what I want). In this way, not only do you get exactly what you want, no compromises, but you don't need to wonder how long the vehicle has been sitting there being handled and test driven by God knows who. :shades: Good luck! :beerchug: