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Hi TN-EdgeSEL. So, let me see if I understand this correctly. You revived a thread which was settled over two weeks ago, to the satisfaction of all involved, to chastise those of us who attempted to help the original poster ("vsutton") by letting him know the answer to his question was in the Owners Manual? By the way, the correct answer to simple questions can almost always be found in the Owners Manual, that is why it is printed and given to the new owner. Therefore, sometimes recommending "have you checked the Owners Manual, the answer is there" is a perfectly valid answer, whether you like it or not. The person asking the question then has a choice, they can go and look it up in their Owners Manual, or they can wait/hope someone else gives them the answer. Without much explanation needed, looking in the Owners Manual should be one of the first things anyone does when they purchase a vehicle. As "akirby" so aptly explained, it does not occur to many people that the answers to their questions are most often right in their glove compartment. For nearly three days, nobody had answered "vsutton's" question, which he had posted in three different forums starting the morning of the 2/28. I decided to assist him by politely letting him know the answer was in his Owners Manual. Instead of ignoring "vsutton's" question, as every other forum member who had read his first post on the 28th had done for three days, I told him where he could find the answer. You now come in, both rude and with a chip on your shoulder attempting to preach to others about a long settled discussion? You're the only one with a problem, so to be honest, tough luck! There is a world of difference between the advice I gave to "vsutton", which was, "Have you checked your Owners Manual? The answer is there. Good luck with your Edge", and what you incorrectly implied I said, "go look it up". Don't change the facts to suit your ill advised rant. Maybe you should try re-reading the thread, for if you had read it as carefully as you think, you would have seen the following statement made by me: "If I know the answer to a question, I will post it. If I do not know the answer, and do not have the time to look it up, I will let the person know where they can find the answer. If I do not know where to look it up either, I do not post." Concise and to the point. "Vsutton" asked for information and received no answer for three days. I did not have the time to download his Owners Manual and look it up for him, so I let him know where he could find the answer. Again, no other forum member had answered him for three days! If you took the time to re-read the thread, post by post, you would see that the only person who did not complain about being advised to read the Owners Manual for the answer was "vsutton". My answer was polite and only meant to help "vsutton" (who did nothing wrong when she requested help). Perhaps you should have thought about your own advice first, before posting, since your post certainly added nothing and was a prime example of "wasted bandwidth". My previous posts were neither rude, nor abusive. They provided information. Funny how you felt the need to be rude, when those who were actually involved in the discussion at the time, did not. If you had any of the superior intelligence you think you just displayed, you would have realized that every word I typed, after my first post, was to answer critics like you, who did not bother trying to find the answer for "vsutton" themselves, they just criticized others answers (correct answers, by the way). Odd how we settled that amongst ourselves, but that fact eludes you over two weeks later. Fine use of "bandwidth". All I can say is, WOW, all of three posts and you are picking fights with people for no reason, in long settled threads. Welcome to the Forums. :rolleyes: If it brightened your day to waste that "bandwidth", "good grief"... it would seem you don't belong in this or any forum. :yup: I would highly recommend your own advice back to you, and I quote "If you know, talk, if you don't, shut up and quit arguing, being juvenile and creating bad reputations for yourself." Face the hard truth, your post was rude, argumentative, and added nothing to a long settled discussion. Now that I have explained more of the background information, if you truly believe the words you wrote you will now drop it. I will then give you the courtesy of doing the same. Lead by example, not empty words. :shades:

Hi Lex. :D The MKX does not have HID headlamps. It comes standard with plain old "Quad Halogen Headlamps". Optional are "Adaptive Halogen Headlamps" (check the Lincoln website). In other words, it has regular halogen bulbs standard. And as an option, it has Halogen headlamps whose bulbs/reflectors swivel in the direction of the turning wheels. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi acupuncture. :D Detailed instructions on how to aim the Edge's headlights are in...of all places...drum roll please...the Owners Manual! The online version for the 2007 model has them starting on page 76. Yours may be different, so check the Index under Headlamps, then Aiming. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi elmwood. :D Assuming that is the correct MSRP, and the Dealer did not tack-on a lot of Fees to that $26,000 total (like "Documentation", "Dealer Prep", "Computer Usage", "Delivery", "Destination", etc etc.,) you got a good deal. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi PFA. :D Yes it is a problem that some Edge/MKX owners have experienced. There is a fix for it. Make an appointment and take it to your Dealer for repairs. What I am saying next, I am only saying to try and help you (not to reprimand or chastise): If you had used the search function (top right of page, next to "Help") and typed in "rattling moonroof" (or any close combination of those words), you would have received a list of posts concerning and answering your question. It's just quicker to do that than wait for other forum members to maybe answer your question in a day or two (or more, or never). Just trying to help. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi msp0789. :D Well, while the answer is relatively simple, it is harder to explain in writing. The sensors are usually located up front in the bumper/radiator area, off to one side. The reason that the reading is higher when the vehicle is sitting still is because the heat from your vehicle, and the heat from the ground (asphalt, concrete, etc.) will give an artificially high reading. The sensor is meant to read ambient air temperature. If your vehicle is parked, the ambient air temperature in the area of the vehicle is higher than the ambient air temperature away from a vehicle. This is due to the rays of the sun heating up the metal of the vehicle, the asphalt, concrete, etc, etc. When your vehicle is moving, the sensor can then get an accurate reading of the ambient air temperature, since the heat from surrounding objects is mostly nullified by the fresh air rushing through the sensor area. And just to anticipate the next possible question: No, if the vehicle is moving the reading is not affected by the "wind chill factor". "Wind Chill" does not affect inanimate objects. Hope this helps and is not too confusing. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi AlBeThere. :D Thanks for answering my question. Yes, I knew that information, just wanted to be sure what pricing information you were basing your thoughts on. I guess essentially I just wanted to be sure you knew that information. :stats: It is not completely uncommon for some novice car buyers to believe that the price on the "MSRP Window Sticker" is the "Invoice Price", making them excellent candidates to be taken advantage of by Salesmen. Just wanted to be sure you were not negotiating under that belief. Glad to hear that was not the case. As an FYI, and as you already mentioned, a Dealer does not pay the "Invoice price" that the average customer has access to through sites like Edmunds.com, KBB.com, etc. Even taking the FDAF and Fuel fees those sites do not include into account, the actual price a Dealer pays for your average vehicle is well below what many call "Invoice Price". That difference between the actual Dealer buy price from the Manufacturer, and the "Factory Invoice Price" is commonly called "holdback" (you called it "spifs"). Again, thanks for answering. I am glad to hear you were using the proper numbers for your purchase. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi AlBeThere. :D I am just curious. When you refer to the "the invoice price", are you referring to the price on the "Window Sticker" of the car? While the question may seem silly to some, we have seen people in the past refer to the "Window Sticker" (MSRP), as the "Invoice Price". Could you tell me where you are getting the "Invoice Price" you are referring to? Again, I am just wondering. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi all. :D I am sure that most of you already know this, but for those who don't: I have read many times that you need to be certain that the Glass Cleaner you are using on tinted window films is "Ammonia Free". Ammonia will turn many/most/all? tint films purple. I need to add that I do not have tinted windows on any of my vehicles, so do not claim to be a tint expert. I just happen to read a lot, and have a good memory. :read: Good luck all! :beerchug:

Hi Acupuncture. :D Like anything else in life, it all depends on the amount of love and care you put into it, and the knowledge you have about the job. I am very careful about the treatment of my cars, and take pride in their appearance. If you take the time to research and ask questions about how to touch up scratches and nicks correctly, it will look very good. If you just slap it on in the sun on a hot sunny day, or on a cold winters day, it will look horrible. It all depends on you. Also, we do not know just how deep the scratches actually are. You may not even need to touch it up with paint. Perhaps it can be compounded out. In addition, there is only so much you can do with touch up paint. Sometimes you may need a professional to do the repairs. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Acupuncture. I would recommend you go to your local Ford Dealer (or call the Parts Department of several for the best price) and purchase the Ford touch-up paint. Be sure to know the Factory name of your paint color, or you can find the paint code off of the sticker on the drivers side door jamb. I purchased the one which has both a pen applicator and a brush included. They usually sell for about $8-$10. You can also try to match it with an aftermarket touch-up paint, but I prefer the Ford touch-up paint. Good luck!

Hi Joe. :D Your best bet would be to visit or contact your local Ford Dealer to ask them that question. That is a "Region Specific" Incentive. In addition, the list of "Competitive (non For Motor Company) vehicles" will most likely be limited. The Malibu, while it is a Chevy, may not be considered a "competitive" vehicle to the Edge (since it is not a CUV/SUV type vehicle). Your Dealer will be able to tell you. I live in NJ (within the "Tri-State area", and have never heard of it this Incentive. Your Dealer will have all of the details. Just give them the Program # (32584), if they do not know it. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Tiffany. :D No they are not interchangeable. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi JLK. :D This is not a year specific, or widespread problem. The best way I can explain it is this: Sometimes things break. You just happened to be one of the unlucky people that had a speed sensor break. Some people sometimes have other parts break. Some people have nothing break. I hope your parts arrive soon. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Regarding the first quote: Not passive aggressive at all, pretty much an out and out statement. :yup: Regarding the copy and paste from the Manufacturer/Distributor website: All credible sites I have seen, state that if you want the best light output to actually be able to see better at night, install the 4300k. Higher "k" output will be bluer and more noticeable as aftermarket and illegal. So, as the Manufacturer states, using "k" output over 4300 will be strictly an appearance over function choice. That is according to the Manufacturer, not my opinion. Let's look at this logically: Most OEM Factory HID's are 4300k. So, common sense would seem to indicate that "k" output other than 4300 will be the ones that will stand out. Makes sense. Second: I find it hard to believe that any reputable Aftermarket HID Manufacturer or Distributor informs people to put higher than 4300k on their cars for street use, so that it will be less noticeable, because they all tell you that their kits are illegal for use on the street. In fact, they deny all liability in case you do use them for a street car. If they posted that information publicly, they would be in for one heck of a liability lawsuit. If anyone has reliable information to the contrary, they should post a link to the sites, so it can be verified. I am not in the market for these HID kits (my MKZ has HID lights), so if anyone doubts the information that the actual Manufacturer and Distributor of HID lighting states on their company websites, they will need to contact those Companies, and ask them to change their websites. Again, I am not telling anyone what to do with their own cars. You want to put HID headlights on your car, go ahead. I am only providing accurate information, with quotes and links (as I always try to do), not my opinion. In this way, people can make educated decisions. If anyone believes otherwise, they should provide links to credible sites corroborating their point of view. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Jim.:D Yes, and yes. In answer to the first question: Yes, you can always rewire your AC outlets to be wired to a "switched circuit", instead of the "un-switched circuit" they are wired to from the factory. Then it will turn off when the car is turned off. It is relatively easy for someone who knows how. In answer to the second: Yes, you can always wire in an on/off switch to the current wiring and place the switch somewhere on your console (or wherever you like). Again, an easy modification, for someone who is handy. However (and not trying to be a wiseguy), it is normally safe to assume that someone who needs to ask the above questions, probably does not currently have the expertise to do the work themselves. Therefore, you would need to pay someone to do it, or learn how to do this type of modification yourself. The question then becomes is going through that trouble (and the chance of damaging your electrical system/interior pieces) worth it to you, or worth the cost to pay someone else? In addition, keep in mind that if you should have any sort of other electrical problems later on, and the Dealer/Ford notices your re-wiring, your Warranty claim could (not saying definitely) be denied. Might be easier to just unplug the AC adapter when not needed? Only you can answer that question. I am not trying to talk you out of it, just listing the cons that go along with the pros that you already want. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi all. :D Well, hopefully Ford will correct the Owners Manual information, so that people know what the true story is. Good luck everyone! :beerchug:

Hi Kyle. :D Obviously as you know, the law is different in Canada and they are required for all vehicles. All I can do is relay what the Owners Manual of US versions say, and what "Hardhawk" was told. I don't swear by anything else, other than that. Perhaps the law in the US does not allow that capability? I can not answer that question. I guess until someone in the US (with a US registered, non-Canadian spec vehicle) can have that "DRL on while set to "Automatic" function" enabled, all we can do is guess. Good luck Kyle. :beerchug:

Hi xtremedge808. :D I am only answering this question because you asked. I was not going to bring it up otherwise, so that people don't get themselves all worked up. No, these aftermarket kits are not legal for on road use in the United States. Absolutely no aftermarket, non-factory HID retrofit kits are legal for on road, United States use. If you read the disclaimers on any of these aftermarket manufacturer sites, they will all tell you that they are for off-road use only, and that they take no responsibility for misuse (read using it illegally on the road) of their product. I can link to several sites if necessary, so please everyone who wants to argue, look for yourselves first. Just check th FAQ sections of any of these Retailers for the answer to the question, "Are these light kits street legal?" For example, this cut and paste from the VVME site that "kevinb" linked to in post #11 (read the entire paragraph, they play a bit loose with the wording in the beginning): Are these XENON HID light systems street legal? Every country and jurisdiction has its own rules and regulations governing the use of automotive lighting. XENON H.I.D. lighting systems that are supplied with the vehicles from the factory are DOT / E approved. Our kits are also made by the same OEM manufacturers that supply all the major car companies of the world. NO XENON H.I.D. lighting system available from any source is DOT / E approved if installed outside of the factory. These kits are not street legal for use on public roads as they are. As a result, we officially endorse the kit for exhibition and off-road use and will only sell the kit to be used for these purposes. We are not responsible for customers who violate the terms of sale in which they will assume all responsibilities for any unauthorized or unintended use other than exhibition or off-road use. In the end, everyone is free to do as they like with their cars, and I am not telling anyone what to do. However, aftermarket kits are not street legal. Don't argue with the facts I present, argue with the law if you like (just trying to avoid a pointless Internet debate). Like I previously stated, I would not have even entered this thread, if someone had not specifically asked for the correct information. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi hardhawk. :D I copied the following from the Owners Manual: Daytime running lamps (DRL) (if equipped) Turns the headlamps on at reduced intensity output. To activate: • the ignition must be in the ON position and • the headlamp control must be in the OFF or Parking lamps position. As you stated, it looks as though having the DRL's operate while the headlight switch is set to "Automatic", is not possible. At least not without doing some re-wiring of the electrical system (which I would not recommend on a new vehicle still under Warranty). Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi ericbt. :D The heated mirrors turn on when you turn on the defroster. The wipers are not rain sensing, they are speed sensing. They adjust to the speed of the vehicle (to a certain extent), not the amount of rain. And you have to turn them on before they will work at all. These things (and a lot of others you should know about), are all explained in the Owners Manual. Not trying to be a wise guy, but everyone should really take a look at the Manual. It is very helpful. If the Dealer did not give you one, ask them to provide one. You can also download a PDF version here: LINK: Owners Manuals As to the extended warranty, that is really a personal decision. There are pros and cons to both sides of the coin, and you will have no problem finding those willing to fight to the death over their personal feelings. Keep in mind that the price of the ESP Plans are negotiable, just like the price of a car. Also, you do not have to purchase the ESP Plan from the Dealer where you purchased the car. So shop around at different Dealers and get the lowest price. There are other threads here dealing with that subject. If you would like my opinion, feel free to ask. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Tom. :D I use "Meguiar's Interior Quick Detailer" and "Meguiar's Natural Shine Vinyl and Rubber Protectant" for my car. They do have other interior care products. LINK: Meguiar's Of course there are other good products, made by companies like Mother's LINK: Mother's, etc. Meguiar's just happens to be my pick. You can find either brand at most Automotive Shops, Walmart, K-Mart etc etc. I would stay away from stronger cleaners, like Simple Green, when cleaning your interior plastics. Usually plain old soapy water will take off any dirt of residue you may have on interior plastics. If that won't work (like on your scuff mark), it usually means that the plastic is scratched/scuffed, or obviously damaged, and rubbing scratched or scuffed plastics with a strong chemical cleaner will only serve to make it worse. You will possibly discolor the area you rub, and/or scratch it more (as you unfortunately found out). I'm sure others will weigh in shortly with their favorites also. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi freeky. :D Well, if you really want it, the best way to pitch it to your wife would probably be emphasizing the safety aspects of AWD. Just do us a favor, don't complain about the lower MPG figures you are getting afterwards. We already know. Let us know how you do with the little woman, and good luck! :beerchug: PS - I hope it is obvious to anyone reading this, that I am kidding! :shades:

No, they are not "screwing you". That is the same choice which Retail (non-Plan) buyers must make. It is one or the other for everyone. In other words, if you were purchasing retail, you would only be able to get "$1500 cash back OR the $500 bonus cash and the 3.9% APR". When you purchase on the X-Plan, the rules are the same. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi John. :D Well, maybe everyone who viewed so far is having a bad day, and waiting until they feel better? Here is my opinion on the FWD/AWD question: While the vehicle will handle better in inclement weather, there does seem to be a sizable MPG penalty, according to most accounts. I have a 2007 Lincoln MKZ, and decided against the AWD option, as I felt the advantages were outweighed by the added cost, complexity and MPG penalty for where I live. I live in NJ, and obviously realize the situation of others will differ. While we do sometimes get heavy snow/blizzards here, I do not have to leave the house if the weather is that bad, do not live in a remote area, etc. I know that there are others who do need it, and feel the AWD is worth it. I respect their decision, and for them, it is worth it. Take your personal situation into account, weigh the pros and cons and decide what is best for you. As to the X-Plan question. Yes, the X-Plan price will almost certainly give you a better deal than negotiating on your own. Keep in mind that you are also entitled to all publicly available Cash Incentives when you purchase using the X-Plan. So your actual price would be the X-Plan minus any available Incentives. If you still have doubts that it will give you the best pricing, I would recommend this: Go here LINK: Ford Direct. Use the "Search Inventory" function to find a vehicle, at a Dealership other than the one you would normally purchase. Go there and try to negotiate your own price, not letting them know you already know the X-Plan price. Be sure you get the bottom line price, including all fees, charges, taxes, etc etc. If you can get a price which is below X-Plan, buy it. The vast majority of times, that will not be the case. Then, you can go back to the Dealer you would normally purchase from, and order/purchase with the X-Plan (once you have a PIN). However, essentially X-Plan will give you the best price, unless you are looking to buy a vehicle that the Dealership is really desperate to unload (i.e. older models, demos etc.). So I would recommend just narrowing your focus to getting an X-Plan PIN and using it. Good luck! :beerchug: