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Tell Ford Racing they need to send you a free tune for the Focus while you are without your Edge

No recall. TSB maybe. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=189151

Welcome! Does the AdvanceTrac warning go away if you shift out of Park and drive away? Does the squeaking noise happen first thing in the morning when you backup, or any time? Do you backup slowly or quickly? How old is the battery in the car? If original, it's due for replacement, since dying batteries cause a lot of electrical gremlins to appear. AdvanceTrac issues are usually related to wheel speed sensors, so maybe one or more of them was damaged/not reconnected properly while the brakes were serviced. Could be a tone ring also, but check sensors & wiring for fraying/damage/rust first. OEM brakes CAN be loud especially if the rotors are turned and not replaced with pads as a set. BUT if the noise occurs after the Edge has been sitting for a while, it very well could be rust buildup being cleared off at that time. You may not have the option to do this, but I usually accelerate quickly (whether in D or R) in this situation for just a split second, and that seems to clear the binding that creates the squeak. If you use the parking brake, it is the rear brakes that are engaged and thus, bind. The best option for the turn signal switch is to get the a new switch EB5Z-13341-AA. It will work better. https://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/auto-parts/2014/ford/edge/sel-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/electrical-cat/switches-scat

What rustproofing? DIY/3M, Ziebart, etc? ClearBra or 3M or ...?

In the 2016 brochure, it does mention "Acoustic-laminate front-door glass" for the Titanium and Sport.

Hello & welcome & congrats! Good lookin' ride!

Welcome! Do you mean it is hard to move the shift lever, or that you actually feel the Edge react harshly to the gear change? FSM refers to a direct clutch related issue, meaning incorrect solenoid body calibration, or problems with the clutch plates, solenoid body, valve, or piston return spring, etc. Aside from the calibration, the fix would be somewhat involved mechanically. Are you on a hill when you shift to R, or does it not matter. Do you use the emergency brake when you park? How many miles do you have on your transmission and when was the last time the fluid was changed? First thing I would suggest is a 3x drain & fill (NO flush) to see if the issue eases with time. Check the first drain, hopefully a) the fluid is not burnt, and there are no particulates/debris in it (use paper towel/blotting paper/coffee filter to check). If it decreases and stabilizes, then do another 3x D&F. If it still does not go away completely, move up to a quality full synthetic fluid like Amsoil Signature Series. The more expensive and direct option is to have a trans shop tear it down/rebuild it.

Yeah, all I need is an on-command Tasmanian devil!

Thanks, Brucifer, for shipping out the H7s quickly & securely

None that I can see

A love affair begun anew Good luck, enjoy!

Welcome to the forum, Timmah, congrats on the new ride!

Interesting. The front cylinders are 4, 5, and 6. The back cylinders (Pass to Driver) are 1, 2, 3. So the issue you are seeing might come back. The back bank is where most of the heat stress is concentrated. Can only access the back bank after the IM is removed. Shouldn't need gaskets, unless they are torn or leaking. I replace them anyway (cheap). Just need the upper intake manifold gasket set.

Which products did you go with, pics?

Welcome to the forum! Unless this Edge was driven mostly in the city, 57K seems too early to have an issue with plugs/coils. The 2011+ vintage (Gen 1.5) is also known to have issues with the throttle body, FYI. At least you have codes, pointing to cylinder 1 (passenger side, rear bank). Since you have to take off the intake manifold anyway, I would suggest changing all the plugs at the same time (inexpensive) as well as the PCV valve. The coils are a more expensive proposition, but you should check at least the 3 on the rear bank, again, since you have to rip off the intake manifold to get to them. Front 3 you can get to anytime. Start though, by changing the air filter and cleaning the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner/electronic parts cleaner. Also check & clean the throttle body.

Good info, omar! Makes more sense to do it the 2013-14 way. Update on my Edge: Picked it up today. Blower motor replaced, fuel tank replaced (rusting apparently), and front swaybar links replaced (I believe one was broken) though I did not mention it when I took it in, as I had intended to have another shop do it. Not sure yet what the final tally is, but expect it to be the $100 deductible.

It does kinda look pinkish from pics I have seen on the net, nothing to worry about. But safest is definitely either distilled water OR Motorcraft coolant (prediluted if you dont want to worry). To save money get the Motorcraft concentrated coolant, mix 1/2 the amount you need 50/50 with distilled water, and pour it in.

Distilled water only please, you can find at any grocery store. No tap or sparkling or ... water You can also use a "universal" coolant to top off, such as 50/50 Prestone or Zerex brands. Should meet or exceed Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D2 / ASTM D 3306 For example: PRESTONE https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF2100-Extended-Life-Antifreeze/dp/B000GKTYNI/ Meets or exceeds ASTM D-3306, ASTM D-4985 ZEREX https://www.amazon.com/Zerex-ZXG05RU1-G-05-Antifreeze-Coolant/dp/B0033QQ4VW/ Meets or exceeds ASTM D3306, ASTM D6210

I know what you mean! The full MSRP of services provided without warranty would force you to sell several limbs & organs to pay off incident.

If your Edge had been AWD, I would have pointed to the driveshaft's center support bearing. Alas, I see no reference to "Center Support" for the transmission, but it must require some labor and/or expensive parts to get you to the $1,000 price tag just for that. Perhaps something to do with the subframe?

BTW, Brian, this post answers what to do with that pesky vent on our PTUs: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/page-12?do=findComment&comment=148260

Which brand did you install? Have had reports that aftermarket doesn't do so good, OEM (Motorcraft) is best. Sometimes the A/C pressure switch (ACPSW) could be the issue. Also, carry out the PCM self-test to access any DTCs. Record any key on engine off (KOEO), key on engine running (KOER) (if the engine runs) and continuous memory (MIL and non-MIL) DTCs

So you want to keep the H7s or what? I am assuming a pair of bulbs ... PM me please.

I found the inertial switch listed in the Ford catalog for 2007-10, but nothing for 2011+, which leads me to believe its' function is integrated into some module. And yet, the 2012 (not 2011) FSM has a line in there stating exactly this: "Verify the inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch is set (button pushed in). Refer to the Owner's Literature for location." Of course, no mention of where this switch might be in the owner's manual either. Fun times.

Isn't the tach digital in the 2011? The cranking should be between 150 & 350 rpm. The FSM doesn't show where the inertia switch function is located on the 2011 (or at least I am not able to find it). On some models, it is a function of the Restraints Control Module (RCM), but it is not showing there either. When did you take the voltage reading of the battery? Everything off, or on a previous run where the Edge was running well, or ...? Should be around 12.6V with everything off, and 13.5-14.5V with the engine running (idle-2,500 rpm).