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Possible there's a small crack in the reservoir, and also that when they changed the hose, they did not burp the system adequately. Did you have any issues with the air conditioning the last 2 years? Doesn't sound like a cracked head or leaking head gasket at least. Has the engine temp always been "normal"?

No, what I am saying is that it can be spark plugs, coils, PCV valve etc. contributing to what SEEMS like a transmission problem. So change the spark plugs, PCV valve; clean the throttle body and MAF sensor.

A recalibration is external to the transmission, basically reprogramming the TCM. I do not know if there is an update to the version your Edge has, but it's worth checking with the dealer. If it is a torque converter issue, that's internal to the transmission, not as bad as replacing gears & clutches, but not cheap either. How much new transmission fluid did you put in? Just wondering how much of the current fluid is actually old fluid. I would get on the maintenance first. Engine issues often seem like transmission issues. Worth a try.

Sounds like Overdrive isn't working right. Could be torque converter going in/out of lockup. Ask your dealer if they have a new calibration for the TCM (transmission control module). Did you fill in new fluid when you changed the TSS/OSS sensors, or reused the old stuff? Plugs & PCV valve done? EDIT: Try cleaning the MAF sensor & throttle body (with electrical cleaner only).

Don't know if removing the ball joint or the bushing is DIY for the average guy. For the bushing I am pretty sure you need a hydraulic press. No idea on the ball joint. You can look at macbwt's video on how the bushing moves around on his channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJb7karK2nhyA7G1BW6xESg/videos I know the temptation is there to do things piecemeal, but these are important parts for safety. Even if you can just replace the one control arm, you have taken care of that side. Should be DIY, but having a lift is recommended, as well as a BFH as they say. Parts & connectors rust over time.

Sorry, no I do not. The Premium system was new (at least in name) for 2009, according to the brochure, but that's all I know for now Premium Sound System with AM/ FM stereo/6-disc in-dash CD changer, secondary steering wheel-mounted controls, MP3 capability, clock and 9 speakers (including A-pillar-mounted tweeters and an 8" subwoofer) with 320 watts 10 9T4Z-18B849-B AMPLIFIERFRONT $103.29 $83.15 11 8A5Z-18B849-E AMPLIFIERREAR $84.33 $67.88 In 2008, the Audiophile system had a separate amplifier, so maybe the 2009 did as well. Audiophile® Sound System features a 6-disc in-dash CD changer and 9 speakers including an 8" subwoofer and a 190-watt amplifier. 10 7A1Z18B849B AMPLIFIERFRONT - - 11 8A5Z-18B849-E AMPLIFIERREAR $84.33 $67.88

At the bottom of the post box, click on MORE REPLY OPTIONS, that will open up the full capabilities. Then click on BROWSE, select the file, then ATTACH FILE to upload the file to the forum/your post. You can also choose to upload pics to photobucket, flickr, imgur etc, and post a link back here.

macbwt will know for sure, but I believe the ball joint and the rearward bushing can be replaced as separate parts. The FSM does not list the procedure specifically ... However, I would just buy a Moog control arm assembly and be done with it (check RockAuto.com for pricing). Chances are the rearward bushing is shot too. Doing both control arms together or one shortly after the other will make the ride better as well.

If I had to guess, I would say WITHOUT the Sony/THX amplifier, because the first mention of a Sony system on the Edge is starting in 2011 on the Limited and Sport. At least in the U.S.

Not sure where 15-0088 came from, the TSB under discussion in this thread is 16-0080.

Welcome, yabuddy, and congrats on the new ride!

Not a big fan of wraps on more expensive parts, but for an easy to get to, cheap to replace part, sure. Wraps can hold moisture in over time, eventually causing the part to rust out. Coatings avoid that problem, but also not really DIY either, and more expensive.

The F150 "real" fix developed by TWakefield (thanks to Paul Proefrock) http://www.dryfilament.com/ford-tsb-seat-cooling.html http://www.f150forum.com/f118/cooling-seats-issue-tsb-feedback-304154/

Thanks to omar302 and jmr061 TSB 16-0080 (thanks to cv27 for the PDF) 2015-2016 Edge And 2016 Explorer - Climate Controlled Seats - Lack Of Cooling Performance From The Front Seat Backrest - Built On Or Before 2/12/2016 FORD: 2015-2016 Edge 2016 Explorer This article supersedes TSB 15-0166 (which was preceded by TSBs 15-0140 & 15-0154) to add a production fix date, update the vehicle model years and Service Procedure. ISSUE Some 2015-2016 Edge and 2016 Explorer vehicles built on or before 2/12/16 tsb 15-0166 Climate Controlled Seats - Lack Of Cooling Performance From The Front Seat Backrest.pdf TSB 15-0154_LARIAT-PLATINUM-KING RANCH - CLIMATE CONTROLLED SEATS -FRONT SEAT BACKRESTS LACK OF COOLING PERFORMANCE.pdf TSB 15-0140 LARIAT-PLATINUM-KING RANCH - CLIMATE CONTROLLED SEATS -FRONT SEAT BACKRESTS NOT COOLING.pdf TSB16-0080 CLIMATE CONTROLLED SEATS-LACK OF COOLING PERFORMANCE FROM FRONT SEAT BACKREST - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 2016-02-12.pdf

Sorry to hear! Could be the PCM is affected, in which case you can send it to CircuitMedics.com for a fix. Did the coils have any evidence of damage (crack, melting, carbon tracking)? When was the last time the battery was replaced in your MKX? Checked the wiring harnesses for shorts, evidence of critters getting in there?

Hmmm. You tried messaging via the FB site? https://www.facebook.com/pages/DaytimeBrightLites/242472839188664

Paul's previous post has a link to the F150 Actual fix: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18790-cooled-seats/page-7?do=findComment&comment=149674

That's what I meant, you can talk to him, since he has first-hand knowledge of the stock setup, what would be the best way to do a VTA mod.

Ford usually will focus on major stuff, not minor stuff, events that their stats show shouldn't happen. That's why it is important to go to proven, reliable tuners in the first place, because they WILL NOT do anything that reeks of "jackass-ery". If you don't seek their advice, and don't listen to them, it is your cross to bear.

Nokians are not even listed as available locally in my area Maybe an online purchase ...?

Yup that's about right for me also.

Good time to check battery voltage from the tuner's setup menu also. Although the '15s are too young to have weak batteries, best to check anyway when you are pulling the strategy code to send to LME. Also advise you to not update the tune late on Friday or the weekend, so you can have rapid support should you need it. People get excited (rightly so) to install as soon as they can ... If an upgraded MAP sensor is part of what you are installing, install only after the tune is uploaded to the Edge, and BEFORE you restart the engine. Not a big deal, but makes for a smoother experience.

Maybe djeyecon can help out. He upgraded his 2013's BOV http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18490-2013-edge-ecoboost-bov/

Please provide some details on your Edge, Lucho. How many miles on your Edge? Is it AWD or FWD? What is the service history? Fluid changes, repairs, scheduled maintenance, etc. When does it "jerk"? Are you cruising, accelerating, braking, going uphill/downhill ... Is it worse turning left/right? How long has it been happening? For example, you just filled up the fuel tank, and noticed it after. Have you checked the PCM for codes? If you don't have an OBD II reader/scanner, you can likely go to a retail auto parts store like AutoZone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's etc. and have the codes read for free. Some scanners will even provide the most common solutions. That said, it could be plugs/coils/PCM (misfires), could be bad gas, it could be the Overdrive turning on/off, etc.

See a couple now and then, though quite outnumbered by Gen 1/1.5 units.