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So I guess the "folds" of the boot are creating that noise all by themselves, is what Ford is saying? Interesting. In that case, they should not be left to dry and should be covered with a long-lasting lubricant, just like they suggested.

Enjoy your vacation, Tricia, build happy memories

Sound clips before and after! Will likely have to cut that hose a little since the OEM connection comes out straight and the TS connection is at 90 degrees, plus external body looks to be significantly larger.

Have the dealer check/replace the hubs. There is a TSB on other model lines that adds a washer on the axle to supposedly solve the issue, but ultimately, hub replacement is what is required.

Hope you will do a writeup if & when you decide to tackle this project, djeyecon

Good to hear the mykey has been subtracted from the equation. Let's see if this resolves the limiter situation! Thanks again to omar302 for pointing this out.

Could be the PTU, but you will have some other symptoms first like a whine or a grinding noise or a leaking vent. Since the symptom has been localized to the front DRIVER side, I am favoring an axle issue at this point.

Sound choice, in tires and life . Good luck!

This article shows you how to approximate remaining usable tread. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=51 Tire mfrs typically build in wear "bars" also, not sure what your particular tire is set up for. Tires CAN last that long, but are they safe ... Whole 'nother story. A typical life span is 5-7 years from manufacture to discard. If you do a lot of highway driving, you can rack up a good many miles in a short time, but wear out the tread quickly, for example. When tires start to crack or dryrot, best to start looking for replacements. An alignment will be necessary to maximize the new tires' life. Also have the TPMS checked to make sure the sensors have good battery remaining.

Look for part numbers EV257 and EV261. Both are Motorcraft parts. Only these 2 need to be ordered. Not sure on the axle leak, possibly a seal issue, possibly an axle issue. That is, the rubber seal could be bad, OR the metal of the axle shaft could be pitted or scored, causing the seal to fail. I see cracking in the nontread area of the tire, plus the whitish pastches look like the belts are starting to get exposed, but IDK. Are these tires original to the vehicle? Is there low tread depth remaining? If so, time to look for replacements.

Agreed. Talk with your SA, then it's time to investigate.

Dont know about the camera, but getting the tpms retrained might get rid of that annoying tire pressure message.

I loved mashing the pedal to the metal on my loaner Accent. Fun little cars

Ford will use plants in Mexico, Brazil, etc. But built to standard. Oem shocks used to come from Sachs, a well respected mfr.

No carb cleaner on these engines, as mac said. Plugs come pregapped, no real need to touch them other than to install. I am just obsessive lol. You wont know which type pcv valve you have until you take the manifold off. I highly recommend buying both types and returning the one you don't use.

Carmen might be easier to find. Hope all goes well!

K, I think I found the OEM part (bypass valve) on EBay BL3Z9K378A: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-TURBOCHRAGER-BYPASS-VALVE-2010-2015-FORD-LINCOLN-VEHICLES-BL3Z-9K378-A-/231449794421? Here is an applications list from the same listing: 2011-2014 Ford F-150 - 3.5L 2015 Ford Transit - 3.5L 2015 Ford Expedition - 3.5L 2015 Lincoln Navigator - 3.5L 2013-2015 Ford Fusion - 2.0L EcoBoost 2013-2015 Lincoln MKZ - 2.0L EcoBoost 2013-2015 Ford Focus - 2.0L EcoBoost 2010-2015 Lincoln MKS - 3.5L 2013-2015 Ford Escape - 2.0L EcoBoost 2015 Lincoln MKC - 2.0L EcoBoost 2010-2015 Ford Flex - 3.5L 2010-2015 Lincoln MKT - 3.5L 2013-2015 Lincoln MKT - 2.0L EcoBoost 2012-2015 Ford Edge - 2.0L EcoBoost 2012-2015 Lincoln MKX - 2.0L EcoBoost 2013-2015 Ford Explorer - 3.5L 2012-2015 Ford Explorer - 2.0L EcoBoost 2010-2015 Ford Taurus - 3.5L 2013-2015 Ford Taurus - 2.0L EcoBoost

Nice find! A lot more work than putting one on the 3.5 EB for sure! http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-performance/12705-turbosmart-dual-port-blow-off-valve-ts-0203-1060-1061-setup-faq.html

Well, they have to have some way of dealing with pressure release, just not sure HOW on this engine, at least from the parts diagrams. Would need to get hold of a service manual, such as found on EBay on DVD or paper format.

I sure hope you have done air filter too, else you might find gummy bears and french fries and all that jammed up in there!!! The Motorcraft plugs do just fine, and they are relatively inexpensive to boot, no mention of any problems with them. So I'd stick to that (SP411). They will likely be gapped close to what they should be (0.054-0.057), so you can check with a spark plug gap gauge, being careful not to be hard with the center electrode on the spark plug. Not worth re-gapping if under 0.060. http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI73701-Spark-Gauge/dp/B000J544IU/ I prefer "feeler" gauges, but haven't found one for our application that I like. As for the PCV valve, I had pre-ordered both a heated EV261 and a non-heated EV257 valve because I did not know which one I had. If you order from RockAuto, you can return the one you don't use pretty easily. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1434490&parttype=5052 5% discount when checking out at RockAuto with codes found here: http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/rock-auto-discount-code.55138/page-17 3380536525584995 This discount code expires on September 20, 2015 so don't wait! As for alignments, look first for a good shop, those 3year guarantees don't mean much if they don't have competent personnel or uptodate machinery in the first place. Should cost right around $90 for a 4wheel alignment.

A broken torque strut could definitely create some "drifty" feeling.

Yeah, I know, but I had to ask LOL!!! Global warming Here's a great comparison of tires: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=CSTAS&width=245%2F&ratio=60&diameter=18&tireSearch=true&filter=y&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge+SEL&autoModClar=AWD You could also consider the Yokohama YK580, Yokohama Parada Spec-X, and Nitto tires (from my personal experience) when shopping tires.

How many miles on your Edge? Oil: Now that you have noticed the issue, it is better to err on the side of caution and switch to the High Mileage oil as soon as posible. Not knowing the cause, this is cheap insurance. Don't want it to become a full-on gusher by waiting 7500 miles, because at that point it WILL get expensive. Spark plugs: Yes, the intake manifold has to be removed. You will need a basic tool set, an extension bar, a torque wrench, etc. as outlined in this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8724-sparkplug-replacement-job-info-with-photos/ mac also has a video or two on this process on his channel. Takes 1-2 hours the first time. Very easy, just take your time! PCV valve: sits atop the rear (firewall side) valve cover. If you don't have a 2007 Edge, there is only one type of valve to replace. Mine is a 2007 and is an electrically heated valve. In any PCV system, there are two pieces, a fresh air intake (the hose you see coming out of the front valve cover, next to the engine fill cap), and the "engine fumes" return (through the PCV valve on the rear valve cover on the Edge). You DO have to take the intake manifold off first, that is why spark plugs & PCV go together. PTU: Do you have a garage or a driveway where you can see any leaks from the PTU? You'd definitely need to look closely to see if there are any leaks from the trans-PTU seal or from the PTU vent itself. PTU fluid smells nasty when new, and even worse as it gets used up, so if you see a smear on the PTU (passenger side of the Edge), it's worth the finger touch&smell test. Find a reputable repair shop to look over your suspension/steering components (repairpal, yelp, friends/family). They may even do it for free, and let you know what needs to be fixed when. With any luck, an alignment would be all that's needed.

Some of that oil must be landing on the exhaust pipe, and with no airflow (i.e. idling), the pipe gets hot enough to burn it off. If it's labeled as a High Mileage oil, it more than likely has seal conditioners listed on the label, as for Mobil 1: https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-high-mileage http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/full-synthetic-max-life http://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/motor-oil/synthetic-blend-motor-oil/gtx-high-mileage-motor-oil.html Switch to a full synth HM oil, that should help. Also, if you have not done the PCV valve/spark plugs yet, now is a good time to do so. If the valve is blocked partially or completely, it will increase backpressure in the engine leading to leaks at the most vulnerable point. Speed dependent is usually wheel bearing, does it increase more when turning the steering left or right? I assume the noise is coming from the front since you mention the PTU. If you see any leaks on the PTU side, you may have leaks there also: reddish is trans fluid, brownish is PTU gear oil. The steering issue could simple be a wheel alignment issue. When did you last have this done? Steering components would be checked at alignment time. It is possible the steering column needs a bit of adjustment also to keep it pointed straight.

I believe you would be looking for the vacuum valve solenoid (wastegate), but don't see it listed on the 2013 2.0L EB site (search www.levittownfordsupercenter.com).