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Sounds like you need a blower motor resistor OR a new motor entirely. I don't think you can lubricate the bearings on the motor, they are all sealed nowadays.

EMail Torrie at UnleashedTuning.com. He is very familiar with this platform and can write the custom tunes for you for the SCT tuning device.

What tablet did you go with? Looks neat.

Rather a wheel bearing than a PTU!!! Enjoy the fruits of your labor

If it rattles freely, it is likely fine. Just spray the heck out of it with TBC and/or MAF cleaner to get it as clean as possible. The only other thing to check would be that the heater element is working, but no reason it should not. Not sure if a continuity test with a voltmeter would be sufficient to check it.

Maintenance ... the FUN part of ownership

5 quarts, and yes. I believe there is a diagram up on a thread also that points out exactly which plug to open. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12917-2009-edge-sel-awd-transmission-plan/

Maybe the new rating is on 87 vs old one on 93?

Never heard of them. Stock rotors + aftermarket pads work well. Or a full kit like from Power Stop. Link to these products?

This IS the Ford Edge forum, so whatcha think? LOL! I did spy a Murano convertible once locally, looked great, but ... that's about it.

Hmm. Sticking caliper R/R?

Better control over timing, and updated tuning are the primary listed changes for the 3.5: http://www.myfordedge.com/specs/2007-ford-edge-powertrain.php http://www.myfordedge.com/specs/2011-ford-edge-powertrain.php

Nope, 14".

Welcome, OffEdge, glad to have you and your 2010 Edge here! Sorry, but this forum also caters to the MKX (I know, I know) I do hope your Edge lives up to your expectations, and delivers smile after smile!

LevittownFordSuperCenter.com, or ask Benny in the Levittown thread ...

11 ft-lb is the official torque on the spark plugs. You should install them with light force. Once they resist being turned anymore (assuming the threading goes smoothly), you can turn the plug 1/4 or 1/8 more to finalize the seating.

Throttle body cleaner will work for all applications you mentioned. No point using carb cleaner at all really. Just remember not to let any liquid pool when you address the intake manifold or the intake valves. Don't want the engine getting hydrolocked. Drain everything with a pipette or a turkey baster. If in doubt, leave the intake manifold/ports alone.

Good looking kit, Burke! Some phones/tablets post pics that way. Best thing to do is to edit their orientation in the device's camera menu itself before posting.

Ah, AWD! Makes one think immediately of the PTU as a culprit ... Do you have any warranty coverage on the MKX? If not, I would immediately look into changing out the PTU fluid, because it might have metal shavings in there, but looks like very early stages, so might get lucky there. Check the transmission fluid level & condition also, it should be a healthy pinkish color and free of dirt/grit. The driveshaft may be binding at certain times, do you feel any vibration when the "grinding" occurs? Noise at the wheel can be from brakes or hubs. Does the noise sound more present when turning the wheel left or right? It could be perfectly normal due to sensed wheel slippage. But since you notice it at the same wheel, if there IS something wrong, a wheel speed sensor is failing or the ABS tone ring has cracked. For the hard left turn issue: could be a PCM calibration update is needed, or a valve body or orifice cup servicing is required.

Ugh, that sucks, Jim. Do you know if they adjusted the shift lever at the same time they replaced the shifter? I am sure that since you are very mildly out of warranty, you can have success working with the dealer, or if necessary, FordService to get this resolved for you.

You've got a really good shop going there, Joe, sales AND service!

good luck

Awesome! Back to the limo-quiet ride

Someone had posted that there are a few small holes around the gas filler neck. Blowing compressed air into these holes should blow out the vent tube. If it doesn't seem to be a lasting solution, you could get underneath the vehicle, disconnect the coupler and blow it out from there. Info below is for a 2007 Edge, hopefully the 2011 is similar: Item Part Number Description 1 — Evaporative emission (EVAP) outlet tube-to-purge valve quick connect coupling (part of 9S284) 2 9D661A EVAP emission purge valve output tube 3 — Fresh air tube-to-vent tube quick connect coupling (part of 9S284) 4 9F931 Bundle retainer clip 5 9S284 Fuel supply tube 6 9F931 Bundle retainer clip 7 W707137 Bundle retainer clip nut 8 9S284 Fresh air tube 9 9F931 Bundle retainer clip 10 9F931 Bundle retainer clip 11 9F931 Bundle retainer clip 12 W707137 Bundle retainer clip nut 13 — Fuel vapor tube assembly-to-EVAP canister quick connect coupling (part of 9S284) 14 — EVAP purge valve outlet-to-EVAP canister quick connect coupling (part of 9S284) 15 — Fuel tank supply tube-to-fuel supply tube quick connect coupling (part of 9324) 16 9324 Fuel tank supply tube 17 9F931 Bundle retainer clip 18 9S284 Fuel vapor tube assembly 19 — Fuel tank supply tube-to-fuel pump module quick connect coupling (part of 9324) 20 9F931 Bundle retainer clip 21 — Fuel vapor tube assembly-to-fuel tank quick connect coupling (part of 9S284) 22 9F931 Bundle retainer clip 23 9G611 Fuel tank pressure transducer (FTPT) (part of 9S284) Disconnect the fresh air tube-to-vent hose quick connect coupling.

There's a real risk that the PTU is done for You could try having it changed once more, hopefully with better results. No idea on how many bearings there are, though I faintly recall the_natrix investigating and listing some part numbers ...