Brucifer

I would think so, too. You would think that they have a giant UniVac machine to plug these things into to run simulations. OLD SCHOOL, BABY! Replaced the front and rear banks and got the intake bolted back down. Took the throttle body off to clean it - didn't seem that bad. Didn't have a replacement gasket for it, so I gave the metal a light sanding, put a *light* smear of grey gasket material on the body and reversed the gasket. Never plan on taking it apart again... When I took the intake off , there was a small amount of oil around the intake holes. I'll try to get the image off my phone later. I'll put the rest together tomorrow.

Sending the PCM off for testing ($125). I guess they slap it into another Edge and drive it around to see if they have the same issues, then go from there. Sucky part is they are going to hold onto it longer than I hoped unless it wonks out at the start. At that point they can see if it's something fixable or something replaceable.

Which heel is that? Just that it's so sensitive with the coils? I still haven't sent my PCM in yet due to budget, but the shifts has smoothed out in the mean time.

You will either have to splice it in right down where the horns are (which means maybe running an extension line from your horn harness), or try and trace those wires back to a point where they are close enough to tap into. Wires will be cut or exposed to make any option happen. Another, more involved option is to visit your local Pik-n-Pull to see if you can find another Edge with the same stock horns. Take the pigtail off that and tie your horn harness into that. They should give you the extra wire length to make thing simpler to solder and if the new horns are not your thing, you can easily replace the original stock horns.

I used to live in Mesa and I will gladly trade you a short walk in 110 degree heat for a 85 degree one in Mississippi humidity.

Since this has been declassified: https://www.google.com/search?q=BA5Z-12259-A&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 Ignore the Amazon price and check with your local dealer as to cost to save on shipping. There is also the theory that hot coils make the PCM go nuts and needing repair, but I'm sure that's a case by case issue. If you are going to go through with a spark plug change at that mileage, I would definitely look at swapping out all the coils. Since you have the intake off, you might want to also think about changing the PCV, but that;s up to you (with a 2007, you get the added cost of the heated version - ask me how i know).

In order to complete the circuit on my relay, I needed to connect each side to each wire coming from the harness to the horn.

Just PM me an addy.

I just checked in my garage and I have '07 blower motor. It works, but if I remember right, it was a little bit squeaky. Ran fine otherwise. It's yours if you want it. Use it as a stopgap until you get a MotorCraft one.

Why not an aftermarket unit? Does you MKX have a backup camera? If not, aftermarket will be just about the only way to get this feature.

How special of a harness are you looking for? Are you planning on doing the rest of the install yourself?

Do you have a quick link for that? This is already further down the rabbit hole than I wanted to go.

Got clicking noise on key turn. Borrowed neighbor's plug-in jumper box and trundled on over to AutoZone. $130 later and the starter sounds like it's getting spanked a little harder now. Old battery was a Sprawlmart with a 6/14 sticker on it. I knew it was bad, I was just in denial. Cleaned all the postings and such and the PCM got all stupid. Pretty rough between 3rd-4th. Even more incentive to hope the coil/PCM overhaul will correct that.

How many horsepower did you pick up from that?

Plugs were done 30k ago, so hopefully nothing is locked up since then. I love me my lubricants when playing with electrical. Since I have a hard time remembering what I had for breakfast, a video run-through won't hurt. I think my spark plug socket is still black taped to the extension. Might have to check that to make sure it hasn't softened up.

Slight update. Made a miscalculation as to shipping and keeping the car down as short a time as possible. The idea was to send it overnight today, they process and send it out tomorrow and I get it Monday morning. Read the fine print and they send out the day after processing, so that would mean it would actually ship Monday and get to me Tuesday-ish. Even with overnight both ways, it's a 3+day event (Ship->Receive/Process->Ship Back->Receive Back). That, and budgetary constraints, I'm pushing everything back two weeks. I have my box, know where the shipping center is and when they close, have my copper anti-sneeze....All I need to do is a YouTube refresher course on getting at the rear coils. I can't be sure, but it does seem to be running a bit rougher now with what seems to be a dip in mileage. I'm taking this as a good think as it hopefully means that the coils/PCM are failing and all this expense will make everything good again. I can dream, can't I?

Gen 2.5a. Always wanted to get a vinyl wrap like that - make it look like my '07 is a prototype.

o/~ I feel a bad Moog driving. A replacement on the way. Looks like OEM gonna do it, Rock Auto said ship, you pay.

Nope. Nope. Nope. I know I'm being tested. I've been sworn to secrecy and threaten with expulsion from this forum if I divulge any information. There is a shady 2013 Edge SEL with blacked out windows sitting across the street from my house. Every time I walk over to confront them, it drives off only to return a half hour later in the same spot. IF you were to slide up to your local Ford Dealer parts man, ask for a spark plug kit WHILE doing the correct combination of signals, you might get 6 coils, 6 plugs and intake gaskets all in one box. Approach the counter directly, but lean on the counter with your left elbow and your left palm flat on the counter top. Angle your body away from the counter at a 45 degree angle. When the counter person asks what you need, wink three times with your left eye, ask for the spark plug kit for your year Edge, then, with the tip showing, rapidly flick your tongue from side to side of your mouth until the counter person walks off your get your parts. Plans are to ship out the PCM next Friday, replace the coils over the weekend, then wait for return postage. There is a knocking at my front door.....I have said too much.......

HUSH! I was told this is double-secret probation knowledge. The partsman at the Dealer had no clue as to the number I gave him. He did look up a coil kit for $165. He'll let me know if it comes with all the goodies tomorrow morning. Tad cheaper other places, but it never hurts to have FoMoCo people on your side. Talked to Circuit Medics today. If I send the PCM in, I need to add a note saying to test first. If it's all Kosher, it's $125 and sent back to me. If not, it's the standard $299 repair cost. Either way I'll have new coils that will probably out live the car. I'm hoping that new coils might add quantum of performance; more for MPG than anything else. Ultimately, I just hope the slippage goes away. I keep telling myself that at least I'm replacing known issues with this year Edge and it's not the same as throwing darts. The last thing I can think of is the MAF (other than physical issues inside the tranny). but I'll burn that bridge when I come to it. There was one posting out there about Fords and coils and such and there was the theory that a low battery can cause running issues and Ford did say that my battery could be replaced, but this has been ongoing since I've had the vehicle (when the battery was supposedly new).

Yes, but what is the best ice cream to enjoy on the 4th? Sugar or cake cone?

OK. Take the PCM out, get it in the mail, swap the coils and when the fixed PCM comes back, Bob's your uncle. I was just trying to break the costs up over time. It won't be until next couple of weeks with the Hoilday and such. Want everything in place before shipping it out. Of course, it's the MAF after all is said and done.......

I'm leaning towards replacing the coils, then the PCM. IF my PCM is wonky (because of bad coils), it shouldn't mess with my new coils, right? What is the lifespan of a coil? Don't really have the funds to swap everything out at once and I don't need a chicken-and-egg path of destruction. I really, really hate just throwing parts at this, but no one can give me codes as to what is wrong (even almighty AutoZone). Once I have the coils in place, I can send out the PCM.

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, I had MAF issues with my BMW. Had similar shifting issues, so I know about the engine/transmission communication issues. I have cleaned the MAF before, can't say if there was an improvement - just something I did as maintenance. I kinda wish it is the MAF since that's a one-shot simple fix. The Dealership did the TSS/OSS, so I didn't see any of the insides, but I'm guessing everything was in good shape. macbwt, Something I forgot to add to the list is that I did the plugs when at 130k. Dug through my posts to see that they had the blue paint dot of OEM and gapped out at .74. Might be a slow melt on the PCM which might be the reason that no one has been able to pull a code. I think I did mention somewhere that after the TSS/OSS change, I took the battery leads off and jumped them together for 10 minutes. Had major shift bumps for a couple of miles after that which was making me think it was more of an electrical issue than "mechanical" (TSS/OSS). Do not relish the thought of throwing another $750 at this ghost (circuit board medic + new coils). Maybe $800-ish once you factor in all the gaskets and such to be able to get all the coil packs out. It just about turns into a plug swap at that stage since I might as well pick up the 20k miles I've put on it. Might take it to AutoZone today for a reading just for giggles. Have to run by Home depot today, so I might stop by the Dealership to see what cost they have on coils. If you buy CircuitBoardMedics coils and plugs, they throw on another year of warranty on the board. Their add-on is $425 which is about $71 a coil. Might give CBM a call next week to see if they offer a "Yes, it was bad" answer when you send your PCM in. Just looking for the smoking gun.....

The latest in the surging saga is I've developed a rather persistent slip between 3 and 4. Started yesterday after a deluge and I had to drive through roughly bottom-of-the-rim water. Wasn't able to run through the gears before heading through the water. For those keeping score: 1. Several fluid changes (plus power cleaning) 2. Transmission/TCU flash from Dealership. 3. TSS/OSS replacement. 4. 150k on the clock. Could this be something along the lines of electrical? A socket/fitting/connector with some corrosion underneath? I plan on looking over the electrical book as to what harness parts go where to see if something got splashed, but I wanted to run it past you guys first: Can I have a slippage issue from an electrical source?