lildisco

Never heard of it, would be interested to know more!

Mobil1 with Motorcraft filter is what I've been using since around 3-4000 miles. Unless you have a way to know the exact amount of oil that comes out, it usually takes me a few days to get the oil at the full mark, which is the top hole. Usually after the oil change I'll get it on a flat service & wait about 30-40 minutes to check the level (to make sure that it's around the full mark & safe to drive) & then drive around. 1sr thing in the morning before the 1st drive, i check the oil again & add if necessary & repeat until the dipstick reads full after sitting over night. With the turbo & all the lines, it'll take a good 30-40 minutes for 'most' of the oil to work its way back to the pan. Usually, if you let it sit over night, then it should have enough time to work it's way back down to the pan. Better to add tiny amounts than bigger amounts & risk over filling. I believe that the 2.0 requires nearly 6 quarts of oil according to the manual (which i don't have in front of me). 1 thing also to consider is a catch can. I don't know your climate & it really seems to work best (or catch the most contaminants) in temps below freezing. I've caught A Lot of blow by & contaminants with my Catch Can over the last year since it was installed. Most recently, i drained it with around 2,000 miles since i last drained it & it caught a fairly decent amount considering the mileage. To note, last summer, it barely collected anything, maybe a few drops during an oil change (5,000ish miles). Once the temps went below freezing, it started collecting more. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13407-what-have-you-done-towith-your-edgemkx-today/page-74?do=findComment&comment=184115

4300 is the purest/most effective light you can get. Anything higher is going to go more blue/purple. Anything lower is going to be more yellow. 5000 is a nice 'pure' blue color.

Looks to be the back of the engine bay by the motor mount. I believe that the turbo is directly above that point

Have you/dealer cleaned the drain tube?

Yes. I'd say averaging about 30-38 degrees for the last 2 months

I'd day for about the last month, the temperature has averaged about 38 degrees & the month prior was around 30,i think. Here's a comparison to my 2008 Mazda CX7 w/80,633 miles on it. The CX7 has about 5,000 miles on its oil change

Oil change & drained the catch can. I have about 2,000 miles since i last drained the catch can & about 4,100 miles since i last changed the oil. Nasty.....

About another 2,000 miles....*puke*

I've always had good luck with Centric Rotors & Hawk Pads. The last Hawk Pads i went with my Mazda CX7 have a lot of brake dust, i believe that they're HP+'s. This time I went with Centric Rotors (12561118) & Powerstop pads (Z231818) for the Fronts & OEM Factory Rotors & Centric Posi-Quiet pads part #10516650 for the rears. Here's my thread on this: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22327-2016-sel-pad-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=168255

The sports have different rotors than the SE, SEL & Titanium. It has always been my understanding with Ford that they use a soft rotor with a hard pad. That may or may not be true, but i have always had to change the brakes on my Ford's out early due to warpage/vibration. That being said, i changed the brakes out on our '16 SEL because of the gobs of grease like brake material. I did have a slight vibration that could be felt when braking, but wasn't terrible. Shortly after replacing the rotors/pads, the wife had to make some 70-5mph stops on the highway in Michigan. The new rotors preformed flawlessly & continue to do so till this day with the added benefits of much much less brake dust & better stopping power.

Cooling fans... I believe that there's a TSB on the issue

I've never tapped a fuse in the Edge before, I imagine that it wouldn't be hard to do. I've left my Edge on Default PowerPoint Timeout & it hasn't effected the performance of the cam. Just make sure that you get a good Micro SD card that can take multiple rewrites. Not all Micro SD cards are created equal.

What's too long about it? Is something plugged in? I've had a dash cam plugged in for over a year without an issue draining the battery. Only way I'm aware of to change it is through FORScan. There's also several other things that you can do to change as well.

It's not always on. Can't remember how long it stays on (maybe 20 minutes?), but no more than an hour after car is off. Only way to modify is to get an OBD2 adapter & download a free program called FORScan & change the As Built data

Not that bad actually when i changed it a few months ago. The wife has the car at work so i can't show the difference with a brand new one.

According to Amazon they're 11.9 x 7.6 x 4.5 inches, but it's definitely not 4.5 inches tall, the other 2 #'s seem correct

I think that i have a regular H9 bulb (no extreme or silver stars) for nearly 2 years in my '16 SEL. My only regret is why didn't i do it sooner? Benefits are more usable light. I've had H9's installed for several road trips where the bulb was on for hours & never noticed any bad effects.

Yup

Definitely installed a Non Carbon, OEM Cabin Air Filter, Motorcraft FP-71. Only difference this year was the price. It went up about $5 for the same thing as last year. $20.51 shipped from Amazon

I definitely didn't install a carbon filter last year, Motorcraft FP-71

Owner.ford.com shows Sync V3.0 available for download

Lolololololololol, when most people can use Waze, Google Maps & Car Play for nearly free & charge $150? Wow.... I'm assuming that this requires a dealer visit or is it done via WiFi?

My calipers haven't been replaced, but I've replaced my front rotors & pads & just the pads on the rear of my 16 SEL, rotors are OEM. Only reason for replacement, was the excessive amounts of brake dust within a few hundred miles. Brake Dust was so bad that it was nearly like an oil like fluid all over each wheel. Replaced all 4 with ceramic pads & get virtually 0 brake dust or if i do get brake dust, it usually just blows off with a pressure washer. Rear rotors still look like new with just over 24,000. Dealers sometimes aren't the best choices, just depends on the dealer/service person. I'd recommend replacing the rears with a good aftermarket brand like Centric & decent pads. While the caliper is off, I'd clean the slider pins & grease them really good & look for any rust on the piston. Dealer probably turned the rotors or resurfaced them instead of replacing them.