lildisco

I'll stick with 6 month replacement schedule, still crappy

Did you change your usb hub?

yup, install a catch can ASAP & while you have the intake manifold off, i'd preform a valve cleaning service. I notice my can catches very little during the summer months, but during the winter months (below 40 degrees & a few weeks below 0), it catches A LOT over a few thousand miles. I've had mine installed around 12,000 miles & currently below 36,000. I've also installed a tune around 32,000 & have noticed no difference in what's been caught compared to when new. I have NOT disconnected the intake manifold to see what has been caught on the back of the valves in over a year & a 1/2, but I'd imagine that's in considerably less than an edge 2.0 without a catch can. Here's my catch can install post if your interested: & this one if you're also interested:

I removed this when i did my catch can install. I believe that if you push the pipe to the intake manifold & use something to hold the red ring on the intake manifold, it should pop right off. Doubt this will help, but here's part of my catch can install: https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/?do=findComment&comment=165970

Nope. That keeps dirt, debris, road salt, sand, etc., from making its way to the engine bay (ok, mostly keeps it from making it to the engine bay). As long as the plastic mollies are there, it's staying there. Keeps components much cleaner than without it.

Very common. I would suggest looking at your oil level after sitting over night. Make sure its close to the 2nd hole. It won't eliminate it, but it will usually only do it for a few seconds till oil is circulated.

I have the z23 pads on Centric Premium blank rotors. There is brake dust, but isn't terrible like the factory equipment. Usually on the 1st stop or 2 of the day, it'll be a smidge grabby, but not terrible. Great setup honestly. Stopping performance has greatly improved & i can stomp the brakes (emergency situation) & not have to worry about warpage or being able to stop in time. I also did NOT have the TSB done for the brake booster. Here's my thread:

On my 2016 2.0, i only hear the fuel pump prime when my foot is on the brake before i hit the push button start. Don't hear it any other time, unless they changed something on the 2019's

Yes, done so for years. I put a bottle (20oz?, i can't remember) every 3,000 miles or so.

Direct Injection & boost (turbo). Most manufacturers will run a boosted vehicle more 'rich' to decrease the chances of Detonation. It's better to run a little rich than lean. When in boost, which you're nearly always in on take offs & passing, the engine requires more fuel. To lesson the chance of running lean & potentially destroying the engine, manufacturers run the cars more on the rich side to prevent this. A tune will help lesson this, but will not eliminate it. I myself went on a road trip & notice soot on the exhaust pipes, but not terrible. I recently got a tune from Livernois tuning & it's brought the soot down dramatically (my LTFT, Long Term Fuel Trim, was at 6% or under most of the trip. Saw a lot of 1's & 3's compared to 9's & 10's prior to the tune). Another factor is the fuel you use. All fuel isn't created equal. Check out TopTiergas.com & find a station that is certified with it, it will be beneficial in the long run. I do use Mothers Metal polish occasionally to brighten up the tips from time to time, but usually, they clean up nicely after going through the self car wash using a pressure washer.

Achieved this on a road trip. AFE dry flo filter & LMS 87 tune. Wasn't trying too hard, around 50 - 65 degrees with a/c off tires around 39psi. 2016 2.0 Ecoboost FWD:

Put the Summer Wheels on (OEM 18" Chromes), drained the Catch Can & added some Fluid Film to the underbody while the wheels were off.

Deadblow or blunt object & beat on the tire all around till it pops off. Wheels have 'welded' themselves to the hub. Probably been awhile since they've been rotated or off the vehicle. Dirt, debris, moisture, rust have made their way behind the wheel & hub. Just good old fashioned elbow grease & a dead blow hammer should help it off.

3+ years on our 2016 SEL & I've never torqued them over 105 ft/lbs. You'll be fine going lower than recommended spec. I believe that a lot of dealerships don't torque the wheels much past 110 ft/lbs either.

Newer cars, especially turbo'd vehicles, are very particular on the quality of the fuel they use. I have noticed a 5mpg decrease using lesser quality fuel in my 2.3L CX7 which is turbo'd, on Speedway gas. My 2.0 Edge gets better mileage with Exxon gas, than any other station around me. So yes, there is a difference in fuel standards across gas stations. You could try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes & then drive it for a few days & see if it makes a difference. You can also bring it up to your dealer & see if there's an TSB or update to the shifting tables.

Super doesn't mean Top Tier gas. What brand of fuel are you using? Only certain brands are rated Top Tier.

Depends on a couple of things. Are you sure it's a engine miss or the trans shifting? I know our 2016 2.0 EB when cold shifts funny till it's warm. What kind of fuel are you using. Top Tier is the way to go with EB engines (toptiergas.com). Maybe the lesser quality fuel isn't burning well when the engine is cold but does when the engine is at operating temp? I run Chevron Techron Complete Fuel Cleaner every few months to make sure things are as clean as possible. It also could be a winter fuel mix thing. I know that in Ohio, they don't start putting summer gas in till June.

I think AFE makes a dry flo drop in air filter that's pretty good. Having a cone style filter under the hood with out some sort of heat shield around it isn't going to help much. These things are hot under the hood & you'd suffer from heat soak in the summer months. An oil catch can is also a good thing to have, if your 2.0 Ecoboost doesn't have port injection witch cleans the intake valves. Coking will eventually cause you problems if you don't also have port injection, such as rough idling, bogging off take off & below average fuel economy. Livernois Motorsports is about your only tuning option available. Rumor has it that you don't notice much of an improvement if you dont run 91+ Octane. Shifting is definitely improved as well as throttle response. https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP631154 Exhausts are kinda a custom job as there really isn't much of a market for the 2.0 Edge. Probably better off to visit a muffler shop & get a custom cat back with whatever muffler(s) you want.

Oil & Filter change as well as drained the catch can.... Nasty

Understand, but didn't have any issues with my mom's 04 explorer, my 03 focus, my 08 cx7, my mother in laws 09 cx9. Her 2012 Fusion was only worked on at a dealer until it was out of warranty & that's when i noticed that about 75% of her lugs were destroyed. Naturally, the Ford dealer didn't admit any fault & refused to replace destroyed lug nuts & wanted full price for replacement lugs. 1 of the many reasons i don't dealers.

My Mom's 2012 Fusion & our '16 Edge had these issues. Found a different lug nut set on ebay/Amazon & haven't looked back. I used a torque stick & they still messed up. What a way to continue to get money from people.

6 month update, still crappy looking. Guess I'll stick with 6 month replacement schedule.

Common problem, but not anything I'd never buy another Ford issue. Easiest thing to do is to get a set of splash gaurds on the front to help keep debris out of there...

I think I've seen mine spike 19 & settle to around 17, but if you're going to get a tune, the higher the psi doesn't necessarily mean a better tune. Many different factors come into play with a tune other than boost. Load based tuning is what I use my CX7 & has served me pretty well with temperature changes, air density changes, etc. Soley using psi to tune can give you issues if you're not careful.

Most drilled rotors aren't going to give you more stopping power. The heat dissipation is going to be better with a quality blank rotor than most drilled rotors. You're better off getting a good blank rotor & decent set of pads. I'm a huge fan of Centric Premium Blanks (many auto x's & road races with no warpage). Pads, i usually go with hawk pads. HPS's are good, but you'll get a lof of brake dust. If you're fine with that, they're a really good pad. PowerStop also makes a decent ceramic pad that i had no complaints with either.