lildisco

That's fine by me. On a day trip last week, the computer said that we averaged 30.1 mpg, haven't actually calculated it yet. When the wife drives it, mpg's drop to 20 or under

Understandable, not really due for an air filter change until February, just kinda looking around at the moment. Seems wasteful to throw the filters away every year. Also not looking for a performance increase, a mileage increase would be nice, but mainly because I'm lazy & would rather wash the filter out & reuse it. I've been waiting for an AEM Dry Flow to become available, but they haven't made anything official for the 2015+ yet. All i can find is this for the 2014 2.0 Ecoboost: https://www.aemintakes.com/mobile/product.aspx?prod=28-20395

http://afepower.com/afe-power-31-10260-magnum-flow-pro-dry-s-air-filter Ebay, Amazon says that this air filter doesn't fit the 2.0 Edge. However, it appears to fit other 2.0 Ecoboosts like the Fusion & the 2013-2016 MKX. I'm assuming that there is no difference between the MKX & Edge as far as the air filter, but does anyone know for sure? I'll probably just buy it & return it if it doesn't fit, but i'm fairly certain it will. Anyone have any experience with the air filters for the 2.0 Ecoboosts throughout the years?

I think that you mean B instead of the A version. A version is cheaper than B. I doubt LED's are cheaper than non LED version.

Found the part #: 13A565 bad side, they don't actually tell you which version has the LED's & which do not, you'll have to carefully read the description. Over $1,000 US http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=dPG%2fknE6Bnf9%2fiuv1ZuK4w%3d%3d&id=430702549&m=2&search=true&year=2016&make=Ford&model=Edge Ebay seems to be your friend is this case: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=6M2A13550AC+ford+edge&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X13A565+ford+edge.TRS0&_nkw=13A565+ford+edge&_sacat=0

this might be of some help: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-Ford-Edge-Tail-Light-Reflector-Bar-w-Rear-Backup-Camera-OEM-/311974969715?hash=item48a3284173:g:b7sAAOSwFYxZ13f7&vxp=mtr To my knowledge, there's 2 different versions of this 'light'. On titanium's & sport's, they actually light up. On SEL's & lower, they do not

No issues with the rotors or pads except maybe better stopping power & far less brake dust. Pretty happy with the purchase & would recommend them to any Gen 2 Owners that can't stand the vast amounts of oem brake dust. The wife took a trip up to Michigan a few months ago & had to make a few 75-0 stops & was very happy with the performance. Would recommend the Centric Blanks & Z231818 pads for someone looking for better stopping power & far less brake dust than oem.

I've been happy with the Z231818 pads & centric blank rotors on my '16 SEL. Way way way less brake dust & better stopping power. My wife had to make several emergency stops (75-0) on a few occasions in Michigan on a trip & she was very happy with the brake pads/rotor combo. No vibration & nice & quiet.

Good Ol' Fluid Film works for me

Highly doubt breaking the law will help with coking. If you understand what coking is, then no matter how many times you redline/max out your car, you can't clean oil/dirt/debris off the back of your intake valves.

Paddles work both in Drive & in Sport Mode

The turbo in the 2.0 is quick spooling & comes alive around 2K (i believe it reaches full boost around 2K), but it's gasping for air around 5.5-6K. Gives you the grunt you need to get going, but it's not a high revving performance engine. As long as you know this, passing/every day driving is pretty simple. Know your vehicles strengths weaknesses

It has to do with tuning & quality of fuel & oil & your right foot. The more you push the fun pedal, the turbo spools, which is a chain reaction of sorts. Turbo spools, which requires more fuel & the factory tune means it's going to run rich (better to run rich than lean) & expel out carbon & stuff down the exhaust. Higher quality fuel burns better than the lesser quality fuel (Stay with Top Tier Gas) & your tips will stay cleaner longer. I just consider cleaning the tips, part of my car wash procedure. Takes less than 5 minutes to do both tips. An Oil Catch Can is a good start to keep the extra junk from making it into the exhaust & engine. Will it stop it completely no, but your engine would be healthier not having all that blow by & coking developing on your intake valves.

Leaving it in Drive kills the responsiveness of the 2.0. If i need to get some pep off the line or pass someone, I'll throw it into Sport Mode. Once i get up to speed, I'll put it back into Drive. Leaving it in Drive is supposed to optimize fuel economy, so some performance is lost because of this.

It's nice to have to get you in the ballpark, but i primarily use Waze as the live traffic is much better than Sync. Google Maps is also a decent option

My OEM one was only 550CCA,so i hope this holds up better than the oem & can take an 'accidental' drain or 2 before being replaced

The last 2 Fords that i had, batteries failed under 3 years but over 1 year of ownership new. Dealership wouldn't replace either stating that is was over 12 months 12,000 miles & it's considered a wear item not covered under the 3/36,000 bumper to bumper. Didn't attempt to take it back to the dealership because it probably would have tested fine as i left it on the battery charger for 2 days prior to an hour & a half trip to the dealership (different dealership than the ones the denied the 2 previous claims, hence why i drive further for better service).

Last few times I've had issues with the battery under the warranty, it wasn't covered. But i would have an hour & half drive, so the car would also charge it on the way there. Just not worth the time & effort to try the dealer.

In the past dealings with Ford, they only honor certain things for the 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. A battery is considered a wear item & not covered under the 3/36. I recharged the battery & it probably would have tested fine & they wouldn't replace it even if it was covered. Then when it's the single digits or below outside the battery would probably fail, leaving myself or my wife stranded. Why take the chance? It's a fairly easy swap. The dealer that i trust to work on the car is an hour & a half away, 3 hour round trip + time off work + fuel. Cheaper & easier to replace it & have piece of mind instead of it being in limbo

Last I knew it was 12 months 12,000 miles for batteries, the car is 1 years & 6 months old & has just under 20,000 on it

If there's an Advance Auto around anyone, they're having a 20% off sale till tomorrow I believe. Saved me $35 off this sucker, 3 year warranty. The oem battery was 550CCA while this one is 760CCA & its a AGM, so kinda like a win win, lol

Wife left the parking lights on all night earlier in the week. My battery tender didn't have enough to wake it from the dead (didn't really expect it to), borrowed a battery charger from work & let it sit for a few days on a 12v 2A charge. That gave me time to think about it. With all the fuss about battery life lately, what were the odds that it would my battery would fail during the first cold snap (ohio). I didn't want to spend the money, but the original oem battery lasted 1.5 years. With everyone saying that batteries last about 2 years, I didn't want to take a chance. Brand new, 760CC AGM battery from Advance Auto installed & i have piece of mind. This sucker is massive compared to the oem one. I had to wiggle a few things around to get it to fit, but she's in.

You can adjust the accessory delay in FORScan

THANK YOU!!!! Been waiting on that one for awhile!!!

Man this thread is hopin! 2016 SEL FWD F2GA-14C204-BSB